View Full Version : I finnished my Jammin X1 project! (Project super low polar inertia)
03.14.2008, 11:22 PM
Here she is. The goal was to keep the cg as low as possible with the main focus being keeping everything close to the center. I'm very happy with how it turned out. Don't even need mud gaurds! Only thing that's high is the esc.
Here's the sweet battery box me and my buddy made in the shop at school:
Velcroed the batt so don't comment about the two on top not being enough :wink:
03.14.2008, 11:25 PM
Use some ordinary 3mm nuts with locktite rather than lock nuts.
Then take a dremmel to them to make it flat. Cheers
03.14.2008, 11:27 PM
I would if I had either of those, lol. Thanks for the tip though :smile:
03.14.2008, 11:27 PM
Aren't you worried about those Nylock bolts hanging below the chassis catching on something?
03.14.2008, 11:30 PM
Yea, but I have no other way of holding down the batt tray, so it is what it is.
03.14.2008, 11:43 PM
Time to invest in a m4 tap and thread the chassis so that you do not need nuts. Also swap the esc and receiver, that will lower the cog without moving much weight away from the center line. And shorten all wires, including signal wires to the bare minimun. You would be suprised how much wire weighs! And put the rcm heatsink on its side, and you can open a hole in the body to flow air past the motor, rather than over it. Otherwise it looks good
03.14.2008, 11:47 PM
Thanks for the tips linc! I'll look into the tap. Can't swap the esc and reciever since the wires aren't long enough and I don't feel like extending them. And, my soldering iron is terrible and it'd be a hassle to shorten the wires, so I'm skipping that. About the heatsink on it's side, I don't want a hole in the body since it's a basher and all kinds of crap could just fly in.
03.15.2008, 04:12 PM
Update: Fixed the bolts hangin out. Just flipped them and added3 or 4 more layers of foam with cutouts for the bolts in half.
03.19.2008, 03:47 PM
No one cares :cry:
03.19.2008, 04:03 PM
looks good, but I have a few question:
if you are bashing, won't you want the mud guards on there?
how is the velcro attached to the body? is it just stuck on, or screwed on?
is the body going to fit over that battery? (maybe it is in the center channel of the body, but it looks sorta tall to fit under the side of the body... but i could be completely wrong)
as for the reference to the nuts for the batter box, I second the idea of getting a tap and threading the hole, looks a lot cleaner, and open up more possibilites (just in general, when you can thread something yourself). Check out harbor frieght tools, they have a 40 piece metric (or standard) set for $15-20 when it isn't on sale.
03.19.2008, 05:14 PM
Thanks for the tip!
Waiting on mud gaurds in the mail, your right about that!
The velco is screwed on.
The body barely fits with some mushing, I'll take the blow dryer to it when I have a chance.
03.19.2008, 06:16 PM
No one cares :cry:
I care Supra!
I am still working on my hyper 8. I will post a few pics when I am done, but i think my cg will be lower than yours!
03.19.2008, 07:16 PM
Oh yes you can, just give the elecs the old pimp smack, linc style! ;)
My cg actually isn't that low, it's just the polar inertia is. Everything is nice and close to the center. I just wish I could get the cogging settled.
Post pics of you hyper 8 ASAID! (As Soon As It's Done)
03.19.2008, 09:24 PM
I will post some up when I am done.
I left some info in the cogging thread.
03.20.2008, 12:38 PM
please do. The place where I race has 30-35 minute mains and I was wondering what type of lipo I need to make the main without a batt change. I have a hyper 7. Your battery tray looks to be the size I need. Have you had a chnce to bash it and see how secure they tray is?
03.20.2008, 02:48 PM
It seems to be holding up so far. It's pretty thick aluminum and the use of the engine bolts plus one extra screw all with lock nuts and threadlock seems to be working wonerfully.
If you don't want to make your own, you can just buy one from mike from the rcmonster store.
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