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View Full Version : SH Z-Car ZMXB-8 1/8 Buggy - Perfect for conversion?


MetalMan
05.22.2008, 11:25 PM
How many of you have seen this buggy?
http://www.shengines.com/Z-CAR/ABOUTUS_zcar.htm
Hobby People, type "z-car" into search, it's the first item (http://www.hobbypeople.net/)

It looks pretty good! There's one in stock at the LHS in which I work, and I very much want to buy it. There are a number of features that set it apart from the average 1/8 buggy, I'll try to list as many as possible, that I can see from the pics:

-REAR DIFF-MOUNTED DISCK BRAKE
-cool non-hex wheel hubs should grab wheels much better and prevent wheel stripping with their wheels (I've stripped 17mm wheels when the wheel nut loosens)
-lower pillow-ball on the front, with upper ball joint should allow for some awesome and easy adjustability
-nice looking shocks (big bore) and milled out shock towers
-chassis has A LOT of material removed, hopefully that makes it nice and light
-interesting way of capturing hinge pins (no e-clips!)
-rear caster is adjusted by a single plate, looks easier than using little inserts in hinge pin plates

The most intriguing thing to me is the first item on the list. RC-Monster Mike and I discussed this feature on buggies. Basically, having the brake there keeps it away from the center diff, so you have more room for a brake servo, and you can also get away with a mini servo. Then, you use the rear brake with a combination of motor brake, so that you still have strong braking, but also have an adjustable rear bias to pitch the rear end into turns.

drkros3
05.22.2008, 11:47 PM
i sow this a few days ago. i did not konw you guys had one.

i think its kinda stupid for only one store to it lol.

MetalMan
05.23.2008, 12:03 AM
It's cuz we're next to the warehouse :angel:

jnev
05.23.2008, 02:09 AM
The Hobby People link doesn't work btw, but it definitely sounds like a pretty sweet buggy. I'll be in Huntington Beach on Saturday, so I'll try to stop by and check it out. :yes: Is it on display so it can actually be looked at or just a kit in pieces?

I am very curious how the brake is attached to the rear diff though. I can't imagine what it even looks like...

MetalMan
05.23.2008, 02:21 AM
It's a bunch of parts in a box. Unfortunately I still need to put some funds together before I can make the purchase, but it will be soon :yes:.

Link fixed.

tom255
05.23.2008, 03:02 AM
Yes its sweet buggy, I tried this on track it handles very good, suspension worked realy good btw shock pistons have special valves on some holes to to turn your shock progressive or regressive. brake solution is interesting and also rear A-arms are interesting too. It sold as KIT
In europe it sold as LRP buggy

lutach
05.23.2008, 10:30 AM
So who came out with the rear brake idea first, Ofna or SH?

MetalMan
05.23.2008, 04:28 PM
Good question. Ofna released their pics of the Hyper 9 a couple months ago. The SH buggy is sold under LRP in Europe as tom255 noted, and it's probably been out longer than the Hyper 9 pics have.

MetalMan
05.25.2008, 10:55 PM
So Friday night, not too long after I posted this thread, I realized my NEED to get this buggy (and be the first person to convert one!). So yesterday when working at the LHS I purchased the only one there, and I had to wait until 6:45pm to start building it :surprised:.

Initial impression as soon as the box was opened: "This box smells weird." Then I got around to ripping the parts bags out, trying to see as much as possible as quickly as possible. This was my first 1/8 buggy kit, so as you can imagine I was quite excited! Unfortunately then I looked at the wording on the box and in the instruction manual, and there was much left to be desired: proper translations. But considering that I've had a good deal of experience with RC cars and generally have good intuition the build was not so difficult.

First up was building the diffs. This kit includes 500wt. (actually 50wt. shock oil), 1000wt, 3000wt, and 5000wt oils. The instructions specify 3000/3000/1000 F/C/R, but I went with 5000/5000/3000 because I know the diffs will be more likely to unload under brushless power than what "nitro" can dish out. Building the diffs was nothing special, I've built many a 1/8 diff before.

Next was the front end. This was where things got interesting. You might have seen 1/8 buggies like the Mugens with pillow ball suspension, and others with vertical ball stud-suspension (I think it might be called pivot ball?). The SH car utilizes both, with a lower pillow ball and a vertical ball stud on top. The pillow balls alone were surprising because they have a hard-anodized aluminum outer sphere and an inner steel core. This design makes them light, yet strong (amazing!). Having the upper vertical ball stud allows for typical camber adjustments with a tie rod, but also allows for the manipulation of the ball stud's height which I am guessing could alter roll center characteristics. Another thing I noticed when building the front end is the plastic of the suspension arms: it feels very sturdy, yet flexible. It just felt reassuring.

The rear end build was much unlike anything I've ever built before. For starters, there's a disk brake mounted to the diff case! The design of it is quite simple, and consists of two cylindrical pieces that squeeze the brake disc between them when pressure is applied. Then came attaching the VERY strange suspension arms. The arms have little rubber bushings inserted into them where the hinge pins go through to act as impact absorbers and they should hopefully decrease wear on suspension parts.

Finally came attaching everything to the chassis. The front and rear fit onto the chassis perfectly, and without a hitch. The steering servo mount is pretty cool because it is totally separate from the radio tray! There was absolutely no cutting involved to get the steering servo mount in its current condition.

Up next is making a motor mount and new plate above the center diff to mount the mini servo (Hitec 5245MG) for the rear brake. And then a battery tray will be made, probably using a spacer to raise it above the level of the dirt guard.

Overall, this kit was VERY fun to build because of all the minor things that stood out when I built it. Here are just a few that have not yet been mentioned:
-almost all screws are HEX head, and most are self-tapping which means less time to get those screws in or out
-only 6 screws were phillips head, including the four 45mm long screws that hold the front and rear gearboxes together, and two more on the front gearbox
-little covers for the front upper arms (they hide the turnbuckles) keep the front upper arms straight
-front and rear upper mounting points for the aluminum chassis braces have the little rubber bushings in them (impact absorbers), and the upper part of the front chassis brace is secured with a pin and body clip
-the hexes are 17mm, but are a star pattern which make them key into the wheels MUCH better than standard 17mm hexes (and these hexes should be compatible with standard 17mm wheels), and this star pattern makes the hexes weigh less
-shocks use rubber bushings instead of o-rings, which should provide a better and longer-lasting seal than o-rings
-CVDs throughout

Total build time was about 7.5hrs for the kit.

As you can tell, I am quite impressed with this buggy so far! Now, here are the pics you have been waiting for:
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v132/4x4pede/SH%20Z-Car/IMG_7334.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v132/4x4pede/SH%20Z-Car/IMG_7346.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v132/4x4pede/SH%20Z-Car/IMG_7342.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v132/4x4pede/SH%20Z-Car/IMG_7344.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v132/4x4pede/SH%20Z-Car/IMG_7358.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v132/4x4pede/SH%20Z-Car/IMG_7339.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v132/4x4pede/SH%20Z-Car/IMG_7351.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v132/4x4pede/SH%20Z-Car/IMG_7353.jpg

lutach
05.25.2008, 11:18 PM
Now that looks awesome. I'm loving the Hybrid rear suspension arm. A mixture of trailing arm and normal arm. Does your LHS have spare parts for it?

magman
05.26.2008, 12:10 AM
Sweet looking kit!!! Hard to believe the build only took 7.5 hrs....wow!! When I built my mbx-5 it took me 15hrs+ (It was my 1st. 1/8 kit) The front suspension is v/interesting and I am curious as to it's durability and performance. All in all a nice looking buggy.

jnev
05.26.2008, 12:20 AM
Very nice looking buggy. The blue and yellow look great together. :yes: Many features I have never seen before on any other buggy. I am looking forward to seeing it in person at the bash... Hopefully you'll bring it. :mdr:

MetalMan
05.26.2008, 12:31 AM
Now that looks awesome. I'm loving the Hybrid rear suspension arm. A mixture of trailing arm and normal arm. Does your LHS have spare parts for it?

Supposedly parts support will be very good as soon as the parts come in stock. Already I have special ordered ~$90 worth of parts for this buggy, but of course am hoping that they won't be needed.

Sweet looking kit!!! Hard to believe the build only took 7.5 hrs....wow!! When I built my mbx-5 it took me 15hrs+ (It was my 1st. 1/8 kit) The front suspension is v/interesting and I am curious as to it's durability and performance. All in all a nice looking buggy.

Judging by feel, these parts should hold up very well. But I too am curious about the durability of the front suspension!

Very nice looking buggy. The blue and yellow look great together. :yes: Many features I have never seen before on any other buggy. I am looking forward to seeing it in person at the bash... Hopefully you'll bring it. :mdr:

I like innovation, and that is something this buggy is definitely not lacking. This buggy will become a track-only vehicle, as bashing will obviously wear out parts. Maintenance is not something I'm fond of :whistle:. But this way my Hyper 8 can be moved over to bashing duties!

drkros3
05.26.2008, 01:02 AM
wow i think i might be getting one very soon lol.

drkros3
05.26.2008, 01:09 AM
hey i have a question. do you know of any motor mount that rcmonster makes that would work for this?

MetalMan
05.26.2008, 02:16 AM
hey i have a question. do you know of any motor mount that rcmonster makes that would work for this?

I would guess that none fit, although I have no idea. As is per my usual routine I will be making my own mount. If it would help I could post up a drawing with dimensions for the mount I will make.

TDC57
05.26.2008, 02:36 AM
Wow.. That’s a mighty cool build you have going on there Travis.., you are going to make you own motor mount??. Cool please post progress pics of that one…. How and the hell did you make the progress that you did in 7.5 hrs??. I'm loads behind you and with today’s / tonight’s progress I’ll have over double hrs in mine than you have in yours.. I'm totally jealous.. But I'm stoked for you at the same time and I'm looking forward to seeing you run that bad boy next week…

Quick question for you!!?? :oops: How are you going to utilize the rear breaking system?? Sorry for the newbie question I just can’t figure it out. The ESC does it so how are you going to do it?? and I didn’t install mine in my 808 for just that reason, should I have installed it?? (help)… :neutral:

Thanks for the cool thread and please keep the updates coming.. :yes:

Have a great night..

Shaun.

P.S.
I know how you did it!! (Youth and experience!!).. Outstanding job Sir…


P.S.S
What Droop setting are you using on the front and rear?? (thanks again)..

MetalMan
05.26.2008, 03:37 AM
Wow.. That’s a mighty cool build you have going on there Travis.., you are going to make you own motor mount??. Cool please post progress pics of that one…. How and the hell did you make the progress that you did in 7.5 hrs??. I'm loads behind you and with today’s / tonight’s progress I’ll have over double hrs in mine than you have in yours.. I'm totally jealous.. But I'm stoked for you at the same time and I'm looking forward to seeing you run that bad boy next week…

Thanks! I most certainly will be making my own motor mount, using 2" wide 1/4" thick 6061-T6 aluminum. It won't be the prettiest, but I value function over form anyways (not that it will be ugly, though).
If I had to set this thing up for nitro, I'd still be working on it. Just the brake and throttle linkages would take me two hours! My guess is I just knew more or less what I was doing, and didn't waste much time going over the instructions (which are pretty much just pictures). If you have any questions on your build, don't hesitate to ask! I'm working tomorrow at Hobby People 8am-3pm, so bring in your buggy if you like.

Quick question for you!!?? :oops: How are you going to utilize the rear breaking system?? Sorry for the newbie question I just can’t figure it out. The ESC does it so how are you going to do it?? and I didn’t install mine in my 808 for just that reason, should I have installed it?? (help)… :neutral:

Thanks for the cool thread and please keep the updates coming.. :yes:

Have a great night..

Shaun.

This is one of the things that makes this particularl buggy so special. Many of us 1/8 electric buggy/truggy veterans know that motor brake can never be as good as mechanical brakes in terms of control and tunability. Often we opt for motor brake because it is MUCH simpler to use and is the most weight effective solution.

At one time Mike and I held a conversation about the ultimate compromise: a combination of motor and mechanical brakes. Basically, you retain the brake on the rear wheels for the ability to "swing around" the rear end of the vehicle in turns, but then you use the motor brake to eliminate the mechanical brake for the front wheels. Also, having a mechanical brake over only the rear wheels means you can use a smaller and lighter servo for the brake (as opposed to a larger heavier servo for front and rear mechanical brakes).

If your radio is good enough and your skills with it are sufficient you can actually use your radio to control the front/rear brake bias between the front and rear ends on the fly! This is the ultimate in brake tunability if you ask me (or Mike).

P.S.
I know how you did it!! (Youth and experience!!).. Outstanding job Sir…

P.S.S
What Droop setting are you using on the front and rear?? (thanks again)..

Those two do help :party:.
As for droop, I have yet to actually set it. Right now the bottoms of the droop set screws are flush with the bottom of the suspension arms. I will wait until I get to the track to set droop, so that the track will help me determine the best setting.

TDC57
05.26.2008, 03:45 AM
I'm sorry to ask a Newbie question here, but what is the recommended shock rebound setting for buggys?? The instructions give me three options (low, 50% and 100%) what are your thoughts / suggestions.. what are you running your at Travis??.

Thanks again..

shaun.

TDC57
05.26.2008, 03:51 AM
WWWOOooooowww you know so much more than i do.. (that’s SSOOOO COOOL) I just love reading your information.. Thanks for the schooling and your time.. I will bring my buggy to your office tomorrow with several questions (sorry!)..

Thanks again for your time and have a great one..

MetalMan
05.26.2008, 04:06 AM
LOL, I just put up some answers to your questions over in your thread. It's neat that we are doing parallel builds :yes:.

TDC57
05.26.2008, 04:07 AM
Thanks SIR...

pb4ugo
05.26.2008, 10:12 PM
Isn't this the car Greg Degani has been pushing? I know he's experienced a couple durability issues. Hopefully it was in the name of testing and they've fixed the bugs.

It is a cool design. I'm looking forward to seeing the conversion.

BTW, did anybody else notice the copyright belonging to the Lego Group on the bottom of that Z-Car page? I always loved Legos growing up, I guess now is no different!

MetalMan
05.26.2008, 11:51 PM
This is the buggy that Greg Degani had a part in. I am interested in hearing about the durability issues, if you could find out what they are.

pb4ugo
05.27.2008, 01:06 AM
I don't know too much. In talking to him at RCX he said it was real durable except when he nailed the boards at near full throttle and it broke an arm (to be expected). Ironically, in that afternoon's supercross he broke also. I guess that doesn't mean the car has durability issues, the comedy of it just stuck with me I guess.

TDC57
05.27.2008, 04:03 AM
Hey guys I stopped by LHS this afternoon and had the opportunity to see MetalMan’s buggy up close (NICE…) :yes::yes: that thing is really nice.. luckily I’ve have the opportunity to see at run next weekend at the track.. I can’t wait to run mine with his, :whistle: of course he’ll smoke me on the track dam (youth and experience) :diablo: but it should be blast none the less.

Great job on your build MetalMan..

rschoi_75
05.27.2008, 04:23 PM
Wow... it looks great. Can't wait to hear how it drives.

MetalMan
05.28.2008, 02:24 AM
I finished painting the body today, although it's not nearly the best paint job out there. Usually I only do the fade (metallic blue to metallic black), but I had to throw in some flourescent yellow :yes:. This was pretty much my first time masking, which is odd considering I've been painting bodies (albeit without skill) for at least 4 years now.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v132/4x4pede/SH%20Z-Car/IMG_7359.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v132/4x4pede/SH%20Z-Car/IMG_7364.jpg

Current weight with a Hitec 5955TG and the kit minus the nitro crap is 5lbs. 5.9oz.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v132/4x4pede/SH%20Z-Car/IMG_7374.jpg

And I just finished designing the motor plate:
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v132/4x4pede/SH%20Z-Car/motor_plate.jpg
(yes, I did use Mike's mounts for inspiration, because they are so nice!)

drkros3
05.28.2008, 02:47 AM
it looks good man. cant wait to see it running.

MetalMan
06.07.2008, 08:49 PM
This buggy was finished a week ago, but I didn't have time to upload pics then since I was busy preparing for the 1/8 electric race in the JBRL electric series. But here it goes:

Here's an overall view without the battery/battery tray:
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v132/4x4pede/SH%20Z-Car/IMG_7384.jpg

I took inspiration for the motor mount from Mike's line of motor mounts, but obviously my design isn't as good. It's completely functional, though!
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v132/4x4pede/SH%20Z-Car/IMG_7393.jpg

And now, the revolutionary part of this kit in action:
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v132/4x4pede/SH%20Z-Car/IMG_7387.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v132/4x4pede/SH%20Z-Car/IMG_7389.jpg
That's the best place I could find to mount the brake servo. All it is is an upper deck mounted above the center diff/motor mount, that extends toward the rear, and is bent down after the motor mount to keep the CG of the added servo as low as possible.
Then you can see the MMM mounted. There's industrial strength Velcro under it, and a zip tie holds it down securely (although the Velcro alone would allow the MMM to hold the entire weight of the buggy).

And a view showing the not-so-low CG:
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v132/4x4pede/SH%20Z-Car/IMG_7394.jpg
With refining it would definitely be possible to get the brake servo and ESC mounted directly on the chassis plate, but I didn't have the time or determination to do so.

MetalMan
06.07.2008, 08:49 PM
Then came the two-piece battery tray, including the spacer to offset it from the chassis (to clear the dirt guard) and the actual tray:
Open, demonstrating the ability to adjust for different battery lengths:
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v132/4x4pede/SH%20Z-Car/IMG_7399.jpg
Showing the height adjustment capability:
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v132/4x4pede/SH%20Z-Car/IMG_7403.jpg
With the top strap in place (notice the outer velcro on the height adjustment strap, more on that soon):
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v132/4x4pede/SH%20Z-Car/IMG_7401.jpg
My favorite part, showing how the length adjustment strap actually helps secure the top strap!
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v132/4x4pede/SH%20Z-Car/IMG_7407.jpg
Another complete view:
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v132/4x4pede/SH%20Z-Car/IMG_7404.jpg

Complete "nude" view:
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v132/4x4pede/SH%20Z-Car/IMG_7411.jpg

Overall CG view:
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v132/4x4pede/SH%20Z-Car/IMG_7417.jpg

Cool:
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v132/4x4pede/SH%20Z-Car/IMG_7421.jpg

Just over 8lbs fully RTR!
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v132/4x4pede/SH%20Z-Car/IMG_7425.jpg

MetalMan
06.07.2008, 08:57 PM
Since racing this buggy, I gotta say that so far it's working very well. I didn't have time to set up the mechanical and motor brakes properly, but they still worked flawlessly. Nothing on the buggy broke which was nice because I had no spares...

Only problems I had were when the switch turned off (my fault, and immediately after the race I cut the switch off), and two wing mount screws came out all the way (again, my fault since I didn't thread-lock them).
Although, I did have to run a lot of preload on the springs to keep the arms level, which is an indication that the springs were too soft. Indeed, I would have been much happier with stiffer springs, but they aren't yet available.

The rear end was very loose in corners, but the track also had a loose top surface since all the water had evaporated from the dirt. Also, better tire choice could have fixed this.

Steering is great on this buggy. On a certain u-turn on the track I was accidentally cutting other buggies off because it was taking the turn so sharply.

I definitely look forward to fine-tuning the handling, braking, and acceleration of this new buggy!

lutach
06.07.2008, 10:21 PM
It looks awesome.

Edit: Try the following springs: http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_info.php/cPath/1_24_130/products_id/12695. I have the one for the Hot Bodies LSP and they are awesome.

tc3_racer_001
06.08.2008, 12:15 AM
hi there, nice job! could you please show me how you mounted your reciever/antenna mount thingy... this is something i need to work out! thanks,
ryan :)

MetalMan
06.08.2008, 01:34 AM
It looks awesome.

Edit: Try the following springs: http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_info.php/cPath/1_24_130/products_id/12695. I have the one for the Hot Bodies LSP and they are awesome.

Any chance you can get the inner diameter at the top of the spring and at the bottom of the spring? The shocks on the SH buggy use springs with a larger innder diameter at top, and they taper to a smaller ID at bottom.

hi there, nice job! could you please show me how you mounted your reciever/antenna mount thingy... this is something i need to work out! thanks,
ryan :)
It is just a simple receiver mount:
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LX3355&P=7
This is my only Nomadio receiver, so there's velcro on the bottom of it, enabling me to quickly swap it between cars :whistle:.

Thanks for the comments!

TDC57
06.08.2008, 03:19 AM
WWooowww :party:that looks great Metalman.. I see the mount worked out quite nice and it looks like you CG or good?. Great to hear nothing broke!.. And I do like the micro servo for the rear brake..:yes: Did you end up hooking to your 3 channel??. What is your gearing? And do you know what that bad boy weights?? I thinking what 7.5lbs??

Looks great!..:yipi:

tom255
06.08.2008, 03:31 AM
Wow nice conversion but I dont like battery box, becouse material is too weak, if it not polycarbonade otherwice it too fragile. I dont trust velcro tape too on front of battery box. Maybe when it fresh it will hold battery but in dirt and after copuple battery replacements it goes weaker

MetalMan
06.08.2008, 03:58 AM
WWooowww :party:that looks great Metalman.. I see the mount worked out quite nice and it looks like you CG or good?. Great to hear nothing broke!.. And I do like the micro servo for the rear brake..:yes: Did you end up hooking to your 3 channel??. What is your gearing? And do you know what that bad boy weights?? I thinking what 7.5lbs??

Looks great!..:yipi:

The CG is decent, but because I wasn't able to fit the components on the floor of the chassis the CG could be better.
I did use the 3rd channel mixed in with the throttle to control the rear brake.
Check out the last picture :tongue:. Just over 8lbs :party:. Not bad for the first electric conversion to the SH buggy in the US :gasp:.

Wow nice conversion but I dont like battery box, becouse material is too weak, if it not polycarbonade otherwice it too fragile. I dont trust velcro tape too on front of battery box. Maybe when it fresh it will hold battery but in dirt and after copuple battery replacements it goes weaker

The material is 1/8" thick polycarbonate - it's very strong. This is my third time making a battery tray using similar methods of velcro mounting (and it's worked for the last YEAR), and it's gotten better each time I have made a battery tray. In racing last Sunday there were no problems with the battery even close to falling out.

Besides, dirt doesn't get in the velcro fibers. I don't get the buggy dirty without the battery in there, and when the battery is in there, the velcro straps are on, closing off the inner fibers from whatever might get on them.

lutach
06.08.2008, 11:22 AM
Any chance you can get the inner diameter at the top of the spring and at the bottom of the spring? The shocks on the SH buggy use springs with a larger innder diameter at top, and they taper to a smaller ID at bottom.

You got me there :lol:. Give Amain a call or send them an e-mail with the diameters you have.

MTBikerTim
06.28.2008, 07:03 AM
I just bought one of these buggies from the LHS :yipi:. Mine is an LRP S8-BX RTR but I am going to pull the radio gear and motor and sell them. It came with a LRP Z.21R which is a nice motor and I had better sell it quickly or i'll be tempted to run it. I'll run it as nitro for a while with a different motor until I can fund the conversion to brushless. Expect some questions from me MetalMan. :party:

MetalMan
06.29.2008, 01:56 AM
Fine by me :yipi:. Considering I have the only electric conversion of this buggy at least on the west U.S. coast :yes:.

MTBikerTim
06.29.2008, 07:38 AM
Fine by me :yipi:. Considering I have the only electric conversion of this buggy at least on the west U.S. coast :yes:.

Went racing today and I loved the way this car took the jumps. It was so smooth. This is my first 1/8th buggy so the handling just made me go WOW. A little disappointed it wouldn't turn but that may have been due to my rear suspension being too soft. It was a bit of a shame I only ran one race though, stupid nitro.

MetalMan
06.29.2008, 08:15 PM
1/8 buggies in general are awesome racing machines. I too really like the SH/LRP buggy. Mine jumps PERFECTLY at the local 1/10 indoor offroad track. It's so perfect I don't even correct the nose with throttle, I just let off as soon as it takes off.

MTBikerTim
06.29.2008, 08:50 PM
1/8 buggies in general are awesome racing machines. I too really like the SH/LRP buggy. Mine jumps PERFECTLY at the local 1/10 indoor offroad track. It's so perfect I don't even correct the nose with throttle, I just let off as soon as it takes off.

That was exactly how mine was. It's good to know that even after being converted it still jumps perfect. I'm a bit scared of upsetting the balance when I convert it.

I'm now looking for a motor mount. I measured the hole spacing on the diff mount this morning. The spacing between the 2 diff mounts is 32mm which probably isn't that important. The spacing on the holes in the centre diff mounts is 21mm. Are there any other buggies with the same 21mm mount hole spacing that mike makes a motor mount for? The bearing is a standard 8x16 too.

I should probably start another thread for this.

MetalMan
06.30.2008, 10:46 PM
I have no idea if any other mounts work, but I would guess not since the overall height, mounting hole spacing, height of the bearing, etc. all need to match. But to make it easier on you, I have all those dimensions:

-mounting hole spacing: 21.0mm (like you said) at top and bottom
-overall height: 43.4mm
-distance between middle of bearing and bottom of mount: 22.0mm
-spur gear: 44t

If you could tell Mike those dimensions he could either just make a mount or find one that is similar and modify it.

MTBikerTim
06.30.2008, 11:41 PM
I sent mike an e-mail on the weekend about getting a mount made. I haven't heard back yet. Thanks for the measurements. I just measured with a ruler as I don't have callipers so it's good to know my measurement is correct. I was hoping that if there was another buggy with the same bottom mount hole spacing I could just replace the entire diff mount with the diff mounts for the other buggy to test the fit and if it worked I would get that motor mount. Sadly I didn't send mike the dimensions as I didn't even think of it at the time.

MetalMan
08.08.2008, 02:44 AM
After a while of owning this buggy I am still impressed by it. Some members here got the chance to see it in action for bashing, which was a lot of fun.

I did end up getting the "stiff" springs for the buggy, but they seem to be the same as the stock springs because they required the same amount of preload (a lot). In the process of swapping the springs I noticed that the left rear shock shaft was bent... Gonna have to replace that. But so far that shock shaft is the ONLY problem this buggy has had!

MTBikerTim
08.08.2008, 04:17 AM
Awesome. I like to here that sort of news. Mike has mine at the moment and he is working his magic on it. Can't wait to see how it turns out.

MetalMan
08.09.2008, 02:08 AM
I'm interested to see how yours turns out as well! Mike was strongly considering the hybrid brake idea the last time I spoke with him.

MTBikerTim
08.09.2008, 10:13 AM
It would be easier just to run mechanicals front and rear and the car is perfect for that. Either way I can't weight to race it.

MetalMan
08.09.2008, 01:41 PM
The whole point of the hybrid idea is to save weight and complexity. Since it uses the motor brake for a majority of the braking a smaller brake servo can be used, and then there's only one linkage to worry about. It's easier, and IMO, better.

SeanZ0r
12.07.2008, 01:01 AM
Sorry for bringing this thread back from the dead lol but I might buy A z-car from my coworker,(we work @ RCU hobbypeople) And I already have a MM esc, cc bec, and a 4s2p 6000mah lipo. How much Kv Am I looking at with a 4 cell to make this a pretty efficient setup? Id like to use one of These (http://www.hobbycity.com/hobbycity/store/uh_viewItem.asp?idProduct=6675&Product_Name=KD36-60-09L_2700kv_Brushless_Inrunner) Or should i get something with lower Kv to promote longer runtime and less heat. I Have about 100amps cont. to work with.

MetalMan
12.07.2008, 02:24 AM
It's gonna be nice to know of another semi-local electric Z-Car :yes:.

However, those Hobby City motors are crap, they aren't even worth the time spent looking at them. A good motor is going to be totally worth it, and the Medusa motors are perfect on a budget. Only about $115:
http://www.rc-monster.com/proddetail.php?prod=medusa3660&cat=20
I'd go with the 2000kv version as it is well suited to this buggy. Mine is running a Neu 1512 2000kv, and unfortunately the smallest pinion I can use is an 18t because the motor hits the rear brace. The Medusa is smaller in diameter and thus will allow a broader range of gearing options. If you paired the Medusa 36-60-2000 with a 16t pinion you should have an awesome buggy!

As for the MM, it will work but is likely to require a fan. The MMM also will run the Medusa motor A LOT smoother and I would totally recommend it. Besides, I know how much the MMM will cost you when they get to your store, and they're pretty cheap :angel:.

Another option is to just wait for the MMM combo with the 1512-size motor (2650 kv). My only concern with this option is that you won't be able to gear it properly. It would require about a 14t pinion which I don't think would fit with the stock spur and rear brace, without any modifications.

SeanZ0r
12.12.2008, 04:07 AM
Forsure, thanks metalman for your this info! Damn I wanted to try out one of those HC motors. I think I might tho for shits and giggles with my FT Tc4 onroad car. I special ordered a MMM 2200 kv(ithink) to my store, and EP on it is only 215$! Ill try to pick this up when i sell some of my old stuff.

MetalMan
12.12.2008, 04:21 AM
Just make sure to post some pics :rules:.

SeanZ0r
12.23.2008, 04:18 AM
The zcar is on sale until the 1ist i Think, for only 199$If you guys want a really nice buggy for cheap, with great parts support hit up your local HobbyPeople, It's a only Instore sale ; C

SeanZ0r
12.26.2008, 06:50 AM
Woo I picked one up! Im leaving for a small vacation for a week, But I might bring it with me and build it while Im at my grandparents house. Any building tips MetalMan?

MetalMan
12.26.2008, 12:55 PM
Don't let the poor translations get in the way? LOL I don't know, I thought it was pretty straightforward.

crazyjr
12.28.2008, 01:27 AM
So who came out with the rear brake idea first, Ofna or SH?

it was ofna, the dominator/monster pirate have the rear brake, possibly the early buggies

Trike
12.29.2008, 02:09 PM
Hi guys!

I just ordered one of these. I've been wanting to do a 1/8 BL conversion, but was having a hard time spending 150+ for a used Hyper roller. I ordered the SH car for 199 from hobby people.

This will be my first high end BL vehicle and I have some questions about what components to get.

What motor/esc/cells should I get? I'm more of a basher than racer. With that said, I want something with alot of torque, not necessarily speed. I do want it to be fun and not have sooo much power that I'll have drivetrain issues. What kind of runtimes are expected w/your battery choices? Should I go 6s or 4s? I like overkill within reason. :mdr:

I noticed metal man suggested the 1512 or the MMM combo. I was originally interested in the 1515, since it seems like alot of people recommended it, But the Combo is ALOT cheaper.... If I go with the Combo, any reason why I shouldn't go with the 2200kv instead of the 2650 that was recommended?

Which pinion should I go for?

Seems like Rc-monster will have most of everything I need, which will be nice.

Also, does the kit include a canopy? what canopies fit this buggy.

I'm really excited about this build.

Thanks!!

MetalMan
12.29.2008, 02:32 PM
Hi Trike, welcome to RC-M!

Good choice on the Z-Car, you won't be disappointed (IMO).

First off, you'll want to decide on the battery. 4s is most common for 1/8 buggies because it just works. Also, this is often the largest size you can fit (depending on the capacity). Generally somewhere around 5000mah 20C+ works well for 4s.
If you went with 6s, you could drop down to 3200mah and it should fit depending on the height of the cells.

The rear brace on the Z-Car is a limiting factor on how small of a pinion you can use compared to the size of the motor. For example, the finned Neu 1512 in my buggy cannot use any smaller than an 18t pinion. It has a diameter of 44mm.
The Castle motors are finned only, and have a diameter of 42mm. They will probably allow no less than a 17t, but a 16t might fit.
Smooth can Neus have a diameter of 39mm and should allow a 15t pinion.

Medusa motors (preferrably 36-60) are 36mm in diameter and should allow as low as a 14t pinion. This would be my choice if I were to choose a different motor for this buggy.

So, let's talk setups here. Let's say you want to keep the buggy under 45mph for general driving (which is a good choice).
-MMM 2650 combo: On 4s you wouldn't be able to gear this motor properly as it would require a 13t pinion - so if you went this route you would have to dremel the rear brace and motor fins.
-MMM 2200 combo: This choice would have lots of torque, but also weighs more. A 17t pinion would push the buggy past 45mph on 4s (not necessarily a good thing), but a 16t pinion would be perfect (might require some slight dremeling of the rear brace).
-Neu 1512 2.5D smooth can: No fitment issues with a 17t pinion on 4s.
-Medusa 36-60-2000: No fitment issues with a 17t pinion on 4s or with a 14t pinion on 5s.
-Medusa 36-60-1600: Perfect with 6s and 15t pinion.

5s and 6s are out of the question IMO with anything other than Medusa motors. I think the Medusa 36-60-1600 and 6s Lipo would be an incredible setup.

The buggy kit includes a clear body that will require trimming. As for others that may fit, I haven't the slightest idea.

Trike
12.29.2008, 03:15 PM
Awesome, Thanks for the list of setups Metal Man! Your help will definitely save me time in choosing a good setup.

So to eliminate any potential fitment issues, i'll stay away from the combos.

I'll focus on the medusa setups. I guess I'll pair up the medusa with the MMM ESC.
I was curious on your thoughts on why the 6s medusa setup will be an incredible setup.

If I went with a 4s setup, I would be thinking about this battery.
http://www.hobbycity.com/hobbycity/store/uh_viewItem.asp?idProduct=6351

If I went with a 6s setup, I would be thinking about this battery.
http://www.hobbycity.com/hobbycity/store/uh_viewItem.asp?idProduct=6419

What is your guess on runtimes/power between the 4s and 6s setup?

Trike
12.29.2008, 11:29 PM
So I'm getting my list of stuff to get. here's what I have so far.

Electric motor mount - LRP SX8-BX, SH Z-Car
5mm bore, mod1 pinion (15t)
MedUsa Products V2 36-60 Afterburner Motor (36-60-1600)
Castle Creations Mamba Monster controller V3
Battery Tray Kit (45mmx168mm) (Going to use the 145x45x39mm 6s packs from hobbycity)
RC-Monster Brushless Heatsink/clamp (L size)

Is the mod1 pinion ok? or do I need the .8 pinion? Do I really need a heatsink for the motor? The price tag is definitely getting up there, but i'm expecting one bad A buggy. Hopefully reliable and durable. :P


Any comments or suggestions?

Thanks

MetalMan
12.30.2008, 02:32 AM
Geared for the same speed the 4s and 6s setups should give about the same runtime. Only comment I have is that you shouldn't need the RC-M clamp but it won't hurt either.

You will need a mod1 pinion, as that is the pitch of the spur gear.

TDC57
12.30.2008, 05:05 AM
Hey Travis,
How is your braking system holding up?? :whistle: I'm still using the MGM / ESC for brakes but I may start to think about going with something else on my 808.. :neutral: (Just reviewing my options)..

Thanks for your time..

Trike
12.30.2008, 01:05 PM
I pulled the trigger. Ordered all that stuff from rc-monster, except the heatsink.

SeanZ0r
12.30.2008, 05:36 PM
I Think im going to bite the bullet and pick up the MMM 2200kv and make it fit, and run it with my 4s. The 2200 with a 4s capable of doing 120cont amps will still be pretty quick right?

MetalMan
12.30.2008, 06:39 PM
Hey Travis,
How is your braking system holding up?? :whistle: I'm still using the MGM / ESC for brakes but I may start to think about going with something else on my 808.. :neutral: (Just reviewing my options)..

Thanks for your time..

The braking system is holding up great. Josh and I raced the Sunday before last and it was very nice to be able to tune my braking on the fly!

TDC57
12.30.2008, 07:49 PM
The braking system is holding up great. Josh and I raced the Sunday before last and it was very nice to be able to tune my braking on the fly!

:whistle: So who won?? and was Josh driving is 8ight?? :neutral:

Shark413
12.30.2008, 09:40 PM
Hey guys decided to join the club. I have been very happy with my K-cars but the Z-car has so many interesting inovations and what sealed the deal was the awsome sale price. I have been working on it on and off for the last few days, as you guys noted great build quality and no issues so far. I have a RC-Monster motor mount on order but one thing I didn't like was the limited pinion options due too the motor can hitting the chassis brace, as MetalMan mentioned. A 16T pinion will barely fit, and that gearing was too high for track I run at. I thought about using a different diff with a 46T spur but I found out the Z-Car diff is actually much smaller than normal, sort of like the new Kyosho MP9, so for now you can only use the Z-Car diff and 44T spur. I always felt that if a car was designed to be electric from the begining (and not converted from nitro) the chassis brace would be on the other side, so I took a few measurements and decided to move the brace to the other side. I had a few braces laying around and I found one that fit perfectly. It came off a Kyosho 777 (rear brace) and all I had to do was cut a small notch in the Z-cars rear brace mount, swap the brace to the other side, make a small aluminum spacer that is threaded, then just screw in a few bolts and anchor the brace to the chassis using one of the nitro motor mount holes. The chassis feels the same (flex wise) as it did before. Won't be able to test for a while, but I figure the part I modded only cost a few bucks. Kyosho also makes a really cool blue heavy duty brace (WC 777) which I may go to if this one works out ok. With the braced moved over You can go down to a 11T pinion if you want. you now have a lot more gearing options.

http://i142.photobucket.com/albums/r115/shark413/DSC05172.jpg

http://i142.photobucket.com/albums/r115/shark413/DSC05175.jpg
Here is the spacer I made to take the place of the stock Z-Car brace. Bolts screw into to both sides for strength.

http://i142.photobucket.com/albums/r115/shark413/DSC05181.jpg

http://i142.photobucket.com/albums/r115/shark413/DSC05182.jpg
I have the motor sitting in the car with a 12T pinion, you can see there is more room for probably a 11T if you need it.

jnev
12.30.2008, 10:35 PM
:whistle: So who won?? and was Josh driving is 8ight?? :neutral:

Yep, I was driving my 8ight (which is now sold). And I can also comment on Travis' brakes... they worked very well from what I could see. Out of 9 drivers, Travis got 4th, and I got 6th. It was my first race, so I can't complain... my 8ight just couldn't seem to be able to get the rear end around, which is what Travis' car did so well. :wink: I am hoping to incorporate a rear braking system on my D8 as well similar to his z-car. :yes:

MetalMan
12.31.2008, 01:17 AM
Take note that there were at least 2 factory drivers at this race, not to mention that there were several others who are regulars at the track. That race day was my first time at OCRC in about 3-4 weeks...

Lookin' good so far Shark413. Sometime we will have to meet up at a track and compare setups. Are you planning on running full mechanical brakes or are you gonna try a hybrid setup like I am using?

Shark413
12.31.2008, 04:48 AM
I placed an order for a RC-Monster motor mount but I just couldn't wait so I made a quickie mount and installed the motor with a 14T pinion. I made a top plate and put the brake servo on top of it and hooked up the brake linkage.

MetalMan, I have run mech brakes on most of my conversions, I am an old nitro guy and I just like the feel and the ability to adjust the bias. I had my other truggies/buggies setup with front/back mech brakes but I had to use a big spacer to make room for the rear disc. This put a lot more stress on my front bearing and eventually killed it. So I removed the rear brakes and set them up to use motor brake (ditched the spacer). When I saw the Z-Car I knew this was the perfect buggy, with the brake in the back I could run both brakes with no spacer on the motor. So yeah I am using both brakes for now. I just need to finish up my battery tray and shocks and I will be ready for a test run. I also have a 1512 Neu I want to try, as it is lighter than the 1515 I have in there now. When I was making the top plate I decide to whip up a couple of skid plates as well, somebody on another forum said he was wearing out the chassis big time (probably because of the soft springs the buggy comes stock with).

http://i142.photobucket.com/albums/r115/shark413/DSC05186.jpg
Quickie motor mount and top plate. Did you notice that the mud guard on the left side has shaved mounting points, saves me the trouble of cutting them down to make room for a lipo battery tray.

http://i142.photobucket.com/albums/r115/shark413/DSC05193.jpg
MetalMan, I liked your setup, so I kinda copied it.

http://i142.photobucket.com/albums/r115/shark413/DSC05195.jpg
Front and rear skids.

MetalMan
12.31.2008, 12:44 PM
Ah, I was hoping to see somebody else try the hybrid brake setup like I am using just for the sake of comparison. Just FYI, the packaging of the springs for this buggy is quite strange - the Hobby People computer system lists the soft springs as the stiff ones, but the package of these springs says soft. I ended up with the springs that the computer calls "medium" which their package says are stiff. You will want the stiffest springs, especially since your Z-Car is running heavier than mine.

The skidplates look like a good idea, but is that 1/4"? If so, I think it's too thick for this buggy.

Shark413
12.31.2008, 01:43 PM
MetalMan, yeah the springs are confusing, on the HobbyPeople site they list several rates, but the picture shows them as all being white. I heard the stiff springs are silver, can you verify. The skids are actually 1/8 of an inch thick and milled out on the back side, so there pretty light. They look thicker because I beveled the leading edge. Yeah no hybrid brake for me, the motor brake action is to inconsistant for me (the braking action depends on what the center diff is doing, which adds to the variables). Where do you run at, OCRC, Revelation, ?

Sower
12.31.2008, 03:01 PM
So, does a smaller can motor like the Medusa still interfere with the rear brace?

MrZ
01.01.2009, 04:35 AM
I just wanted to say thanks to Metalman regarding your resent post of your Z-Car conversion build. It was filled with great information, which helped me with my Z-conversion. I installed a Mamba Monster and Medusa Brushless (16T) along with a 4s 4800 Lipo and man does it move. It turned out to be the best fit and it didn't send me to the poor house. So here it is. As for the body I'm still out on the colors. Just click on the link ---> http://s258.photobucket.com/albums/hh274/5150roc/?action=view&current=e3607593.pbw

MrZ
01.01.2009, 09:01 PM
Well here is my Z with a temp body that I took from my other Z nitro. I have a body on order, but I'm still out on the color combo that I will be using. Anyone out there that can shine a light on a good color combo. Also, there have been questions on what motor to use, well as per the Metalman, I went with the Medusa. With the Medusa you have a wider range for your pinion. I personally went with a 16T and it works great and I still have plenty of room to change it. So just click in the link. Also, if your still thinking on getting the Z-Car for 199, well I believe they are going back up for 2009. U snooooz you lose as they say. Even if they go back up I don't think it will be by that much. It still the best deal around and parts...what ever you need Hobby People have them.

http://s258.photobucket.com/albums/hh274/5150roc/?action=view&current=6383d3a8.pbw

Trike
01.01.2009, 11:05 PM
Mine should get delivered on saturday. I have everything ordered for it. I decided to use a DS1313 for the steering servo. Once the stuff shows up from RC-monster, I can start completing it.

I want to try out the hybrid brake setup once I get everything together. I'd be curious to see how the Airtronics M11 ABS feature works with it. I'll have to see what I need to do, to fab up a mount for the servo.

Have any of you guys used their ABS feature on their radio? if so how'd you like it?

so you think I should order a set of hard (Silver springs) from hobby people?

MetalMan
01.02.2009, 01:09 AM
MetalMan, yeah the springs are confusing, on the HobbyPeople site they list several rates, but the picture shows them as all being white. I heard the stiff springs are silver, can you verify. The skids are actually 1/8 of an inch thick and milled out on the back side, so there pretty light. They look thicker because I beveled the leading edge. Yeah no hybrid brake for me, the motor brake action is to inconsistant for me (the braking action depends on what the center diff is doing, which adds to the variables). Where do you run at, OCRC, Revelation, ?

All of the springs that came into the Fountain Valley store were white with no indications that differentiate them.

1/8" is much better, what I was gonna suggest if you had in fact used 1/4" :lol:

Typically I drive at OCRC, since it's about 20mins from my house. I have driven at Rev a number of times, and raced this buggy at the JBRL electric series when they had the trial 1/8 electric class. Unfortunately Rev is a minimum 45min. drive for me, depending on traffic of course :diablo:.

So, does a smaller can motor like the Medusa still interfere with the rear brace?

Judging by MrZ's conversion it doesn't look like it interferes.

I just wanted to say thanks to Metalman regarding your resent post of your Z-Car conversion build. It was filled with great information, which helped me with my Z-conversion. I installed a Mamba Monster and Medusa Brushless (16T) along with a 4s 4800 Lipo and man does it move. It turned out to be the best fit and it didn't send me to the poor house. So here it is. As for the body I'm still out on the colors. Just click on the link ---> http://s258.photobucket.com/albums/hh274/5150roc/?action=view&current=e3607593.pbw

You're welcome :party:. Your Z-Car came out nice and clean! Naturally my only suggestion is the rear brake to improve cornering, but that's just me :whistle:.

Do you work at one of the Hobby People stores?

Mine should get delivered on saturday. I have everything ordered for it. I decided to use a DS1313 for the steering servo. Once the stuff shows up from RC-monster, I can start completing it.

I want to try out the hybrid brake setup once I get everything together. I'd be curious to see how the Airtronics M11 ABS feature works with it. I'll have to see what I need to do, to fab up a mount for the servo.

Have any of you guys used their ABS feature on their radio? if so how'd you like it?

so you think I should order a set of hard (Silver springs) from hobby people?

Haven't tried the ABS feature, but it could very well help. I have found that the motor brake comes on strong, but the overall braking of my buggy isn't enough. The EPA of the brakes are turned way down, so I have to gradually increase them. Next time my buggy is at the track I will try ABS on the motor brake and see if that makes any noticeable difference.

What springs are silver? I can't find anything about silver springs.

Oh and by the way, the Z-Car went back up to its regular price at $469. The Hobby People stores may still be running a special on them but I won't know until I go to work tomorrow.

MrZ
01.02.2009, 06:10 AM
No I don't, but I have a lot of good friends that I race with at the Hobby People in R.C.

Trike
01.02.2009, 12:03 PM
What springs are silver? I can't find anything about silver springs.



sorry, I should've been more specific. You guys were discussing shock springs and colors. It seemed like you guys figured out that the hard springs are silver colored.

MetalMan
01.02.2009, 12:27 PM
All the springs are white, though. Or at least the first batch of them were.

Shark413
01.02.2009, 05:57 PM
Some updated pictures of my Z-Car conversion. Added the MMM, rx box, battery tray and some Proline Revolver tires. Took it out for a test run and found that the stock springs are way too soft even with max preload, until I can get some stiffer springs I may replace the shocks with some Kyosho Big Bores.

Metaman, what's the situation on the stiff springs? HobbyPeople.net shows the stiff front springs on backorder.

http://i142.photobucket.com/albums/r115/shark413/P1010021-1.jpg

http://i142.photobucket.com/albums/r115/shark413/P1010026-2.jpg

http://i142.photobucket.com/albums/r115/shark413/P1010028.jpg
Here is the buggy the Z-Car is competing agains't, my brushless Kyosho 777 sp2.

http://i142.photobucket.com/albums/r115/shark413/P1010030.jpg
Side-by-side

MrZ
01.02.2009, 06:46 PM
:yes:

MrZ
01.03.2009, 03:28 AM
Great looking rigs Shark, can you confirm what receiver box you used ?
Thanks

Shark413
01.03.2009, 05:32 AM
MrZ, thanks.

The rx box is from the associated RC10GT2, here is the link http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXNYU3&P=7

It's not water proof like the newer Traxxas rx boxes but it is small and works for me.

MetalMan
01.03.2009, 01:37 PM
I don't know what the situation is with the warehouse's stock, but I can check if the store has the stiffest springs in stock.

Shark413
01.03.2009, 03:00 PM
MetalMan, thanks, let me know what you find out about the springs. The Z-Car shocks action feels pretty good, it's just that the springs are too soft. I think with stiffer springs they will be good shocks.

MetalMan
01.04.2009, 12:47 AM
Ugh, this spring situation is quite confusing. I don't remember for sure what springs were the stiffest, and the labeling is extremely confusing. IE, one package of springs on its label shows "Medium" but then when you look up the part number in the Hobby People computer it comes up as "Stiff Pro Kit". For the life of me I cannot recall if the package label is correct or if the computer is correct. On Monday I can dig into this more, today there just wasn't enough time.

Shark413
01.04.2009, 03:08 AM
Thanks MetalMan, I may wait a while for HobbyPeople to get things settled regarding the Z-Car stock. I bolted on my Kyosho Big Bore shocks with the Blue stiff springs and now the buggy feels just right. I definetly want to try out the Z-Car shocks, they seem to be very well made and the action is very smooth. Also, for some reason I didn't have enough camber adjustment on the right front, so I had to add a thin 14mm spacer (in addition to the stock spacer) under the pivot ball, now it is perfect.

Shark413
01.04.2009, 05:30 AM
MetalMan, one more question.

The valve (thin metal flap) in the Z-Car shock has holes that line up with the holes in the shock piston. So what is the purpose of the valve, when it looks like the oil just flows right thru the holes in the valve and piston? The valve in my Revo PE shocks are solid (no holes), so on the down stroke the valve is basically closed and restricts the flow, going the other way the valve bends slightly allowing more oil to flow, giving quicker rebound. I assume thats how the Z-Car shocks are supposed to work, but I don't see how it can with holes in both the valve and piston.

MetalMan
01.04.2009, 01:35 PM
Those Kyosho shocks should work a lot better than the Z-Car shocks, no doubt.

I haven't completely understood the purpose of the valve either. But from what I have concluded they should increase dampening slightly on the upstroke (compression) because they make the flow of oil more turbulent. Or something like that.

MrZ
01.04.2009, 06:01 PM
Metalman can you help with this one. I used the stock center steel diff spur gear (44T) and I'm using the 16T 5mm Pinion that I bought on Monster (Madusa motor.)When I roll the rig back and forth, it make some what of a load metal to metal sound. The sound is coming from these two gears. Could it be that the pitch is off or are they a standard pitch, ie 48. Can it also be the fact that the bottom plate is metal as well, applifying the sound ? Also, when you put together the center diff, did you use the 50% oil the comes with the kit or did you use a heavier one? The reason is, I'm getting a lot of power up front, where my front wheels are balooning at high speeds, does this mean I might need a heavier oil in the center diff? What ever help you can give I would appreciated. Thanks in advance

Trike
01.05.2009, 12:16 PM
Got my Z car on saturday, finished putting it together last night. like other have said. The stock springs do feel soft. What weight oil did you guys put in the shocks? I used the big tube (forgot the weight#) to fill them up. I may put some 40 weight in them for the time being.

The rear brake is pretty cool, once I get everything fitted, I'll have to make a servo mount to use the rear brake.

I should get my Rc-Monster parts in the next day or so. I just might be able to get it running by this weekend. I'm excited to get my first 1/8 buggy running on BL.

tom255
01.05.2009, 12:22 PM
Those Kyosho shocks should work a lot better than the Z-Car shocks, no doubt.

I haven't completely understood the purpose of the valve either. But from what I have concluded they should increase dampening slightly on the upstroke (compression) because they make the flow of oil more turbulent. Or something like that.

With valves you can tune suspension to progressive (allowing it to be stiff over small bumps, but get relatively softer over larger bumps) or regressive, similar to conical holes in pistons. But conical holes work only in narrow zone. But valves work on full lenght of shock travel. I like idea of valves in Z-car. But dont know realy how well shocks works

Shark413
01.05.2009, 02:34 PM
tom255, I understand how the valves work, I have them in my Revo PE, the thing is the Z-Car valves have holes in them that line up with the holes in the piston, so they really don't act as a valve, as the oil just flows right thru the holes. I may experiment with the Z-Car valves and either make some new ones with no holes, or redrill the mounting hole so the valve is moved over slightly so it blocks the piston hole (at least partically).

Shark413
01.05.2009, 03:44 PM
I had a chance to take it out on the track this weekend and I must say it performed very well. I have been wheeling Kyosho buggies (Kanai III and 777 SP2) for a while and the Z-Car seems to handle better, I don't have it setup 100% yet and I had some issues dialing in the rear suspension (I changed out the shocks with Kyosho Big Bores) but it corners and jumps really well. I took a couple of big hits and it came out with any breakage. The lighter weight overall and especially the drivetrain (thin driveshafts, smaller diffs, milled outdrives, etc.) seemed to allow it to spool up faster.

Also, Amain Hobbies use to carry the Z-Car but stopped because of lack of sales and that they were not impressed with the buggy. I started a post on the Amain forum and MadRussian and I have been trying to get them to carry them again, especially the parts so we can get some better pricing. Please go over there and post your opinions.
http://forums.amainhobbies.com/index...ic,1746.0.html

MrZ
01.05.2009, 07:52 PM
Great job Shark, I read what you wrote on the A Main Hobbies forum and it was writen very well. I for one would like to here what their responce is going to be. It seems that those behind this great product have dropped the ball and if nothng is done, parts will be a hard thing to come by. We might find ourselves shipping for them on ebay.

MetalMan
01.06.2009, 02:54 AM
Metalman can you help with this one. I used the stock center steel diff spur gear (44T) and I'm using the 16T 5mm Pinion that I bought on Monster (Madusa motor.)When I roll the rig back and forth, it make some what of a load metal to metal sound. The sound is coming from these two gears. Could it be that the pitch is off or are they a standard pitch, ie 48. Can it also be the fact that the bottom plate is metal as well, applifying the sound ? Also, when you put together the center diff, did you use the 50% oil the comes with the kit or did you use a heavier one? The reason is, I'm getting a lot of power up front, where my front wheels are balooning at high speeds, does this mean I might need a heavier oil in the center diff? What ever help you can give I would appreciated. Thanks in advance

The noise you are hearing is a direct result of the Medusa motor being slotted, where the windings of the motor are arranged around a stator similar to what you would find on a brushed motor (notice a brushed motor has detents in its rotation too).
My Z-Car is actually one of the quietest of the conversions at the local track, even with a Neu (slotted) motor and steel pinion and spur.

I think my center diff is filled with 10-15k right now, but I haven't messed with any of the diffs since I built the buggy... As for shock oil, I think I have 50-55 front and 40-45 rear.

Trike
01.06.2009, 01:05 PM
I got my parts in yesterday, I'm just about done. Waiting for the M11 and DS1313 servo to show up. I just briefly fired it up with 3s and a FM radio I had laying around. I can tell this thing is going to rock :intello:

Here's some pics

http://turborocco.com/gallery2/d/757-2/IMG_3850.jpg

http://turborocco.com/gallery2/d/706-2/IMG_3838.jpg

http://turborocco.com/gallery2/d/694-2/IMG_3842.jpg

Sower
01.06.2009, 01:18 PM
Very nice! By the way, are those shocks big bore?

MrZ
01.06.2009, 01:29 PM
Looking good trike. What pinion did you end up with and where did you get it ??

Trike
01.06.2009, 01:47 PM
Sower, these are the stock shocks from the Z-car kit.

Mrz, I'm using a 15t pinion and I got it from here at Rc-monster. The motor is a medusa 36-60-1600. Going to run 6s. I went with Metalman's suggestion for
this setup.

I'm really curious what kind of runtimes I'll get off a 3300Mah 6s. Anybody have any guesses?

I'm thinking about getting a receiver box, but not sure which one to get yet.

MrZ
01.06.2009, 08:11 PM
Cool, I'm running the Medusa 36-60 2200, with a Mamba Monster ESC. Also, I'm using a Lipo 4s 4800, which works great. The only thing you might what to look into is the fact that your battery tray might be a little too short to fit a 6s. From looking at what you have, I believe that I have the same battery tray, if in fact you got it from Monster (two sizes.) I went with the longest one, but still came up a little short, the battery was just too long. What I did do was to drumal one of the battery tray open and placed a heavy duty valcro on both the battery and base of the plate. Along with strapping it down, it holds fine. I even took a good hit on the front-end and it didn't move a bit. Just to confirm you might want to measure the lipo that you will be using. A 6s is pretty bid. The trick is to use the heavy duty velcro. Or, hopefully you custom ordered your tray to fit the 6s. I didnt' do that which I should have. However, what I did fixed the problem. Hope this helps.

Trike
01.07.2009, 12:27 PM
Sweet, are you liking the medusa?

I hope the battery fits in the tray! according to the site, the 6s battery dimensions are 145x45x39mm. I ordered the 45x168 tray.

After I tidy'ed up a bit last night, I put the 3s back on to play with while i'm waiting for the 6s. heh. I've never had a buggy pop a wheelie before. I jammed the throttle for a split second and the front end lifted off the ground. :surprised: Cant wait till I feed it with a 6s.

MrZ
01.07.2009, 12:56 PM
Cool. With all the updates on your progress, your going to need to put some pic once your rig is competed. Looking forward in see how it comes out. Have you dicided on your color or colors on the body?

Trike
01.07.2009, 01:49 PM
yeah, I'll get some pics up when i'm all done. I've never painted a body before, so I'm not expecting it to turn out good or anything. But i'm picking up an airbrush today and using my 20lb co2 tank to power it. I'm going to try and keep it simple. Probably two colors, A platinum gray on the body and pearl blue on the top center canopy. I'll try to tint the windows too. It might end up becoming one color if I screw it up. :P

MrZ
01.07.2009, 03:40 PM
Yeah your right the first time should always be kept simple. I use both can a air brush. Here are some steps I take when painting.
- Make sure you wash the body good with dish soap.
- Then get a green and yellow Scotch Brite scrub spong and wipe the inside of the body with the green side of the pad. You want it to turn a foggy white. this will creat small scraches inside the body to allow the paint to stick better. Once you paint it you will not see the foggy white color.
- Then wash it one more time.
- Then get your can of spray paint and put it in warm water. You don't what the paint to be cold.
- Then get a hair dryer and place it on med. heat and start applying heat on the body just before you start spraying paint.
- When your ready for paint, spray a little of paint on a cardboard box to make sure the can is spraying like should be.
- Now your ready to paint. Very important, spray only light coats. You should put anywhere between 7 to 10 coats. Take your time that's the key. Once you after each coat hit it with the hair blower. Make sure its about 20" away at med. heat.
- After you have painted all your coats let it sit for 10 t 15 min. Then depending on the color you used. take it out in the sun and hold it up. You are looking for spots you might have missed. Once you have gotten everything painted hit it with white paint. This is normally done when you use a light color paint, such as yellow.
- Now your are ready to pull of the plastic film and ... voila !!!

Trike
01.08.2009, 05:56 PM
Thanks for the tips! I might lay down the first color today.

I got the 6s pack yesterday, and it fits the tray. the width of the pack near the wires fits snugly in the tray and there's plenty of room length wise. Once I get a few cycles through them, I'll probably order some more.

One thing I am worried about is the shocks. I have all the preloads added onto them, but the rear seems awfully soft and is sagging slightly compared to the front. I don't want to bang up the chassis too much when I take it out for its first drive. I was thinking of removing some of the preloads from the front and moving it to the rear. Anybody have any suggestions?

I did a weigh in without the body and steering servo. Currently I'm at 7lb 6oz with the 6s pack.

Shark413
01.08.2009, 10:04 PM
Trike, the stock Z-Car springs are way to soft and will adversely impact the handling of the buggy. Adding preload does not fix the issue, preload spacers are for adjusting ride height. You need to get the Z-Car stiff springs. Around here, Hobbypeople is out of stock, so I removed the stock shocks and added some spare Kyosho shocks I had. The buggy handles like a dream now.

MetalMan
01.09.2009, 01:57 AM
One thing I am worried about is the shocks. I have all the preloads added onto them, but the rear seems awfully soft and is sagging slightly compared to the front. I don't want to bang up the chassis too much when I take it out for its first drive. I was thinking of removing some of the preloads from the front and moving it to the rear. Anybody have any suggestions?

I did a weigh in without the body and steering servo. Currently I'm at 7lb 6oz with the 6s pack.

Until the stiffer springs came out I was in the same boat. Even the stiff springs aren't all that stiff, and my buggy I feel would benefit from stiffer springs.

Trike
01.09.2009, 12:56 PM
Thanks guys, I'll wait till hobby people gets the front back in stock. they have the rears in stock at the moment. I noticed the Zcar is $199 again!

I guess I wont be doing any jumps until I get the springs sorted out.

I took it out for a quick test drive late last night, I couldn't wait for the ds1313 to show up, so i slapped in a s3003 :P

All I have to say is, WOW... :gasp: there is gobs of torque. I was scared to go full throttle since it was dark and I'm not used to the increase in power. This is by far the fastest r/c car i've ever owned.

I've never raced before, so I don't really know how to tune the suspension. But even with the soft springs, it turns really nice. Hopefully I'll start learning about tweaking the suspension. But I need to get the spring issue sorted out first.

Just wanted to say thanks to MetalMan for guiding me with the BL setup, and everyone else that has tolerated my n00bish questions. I'm definitely grinning ear to ear after two mins of driving it in the street last night. I can tell it's a beast! Hopefully I'll be able to cycle the battery a few times this weekend to get an idea of what the runtime is like on 6S.

When the K5.9 dies on my XL, I'm seriously going to consider converting it to BL.

Trike
01.09.2009, 01:24 PM
Hey Shark,
Do you know if the kyosho springs would fit the z-car shocks? Just seeing if maybe I can get a set of kyosho springs and mod them to fit.

Shark413
01.09.2009, 03:24 PM
Trike, when I first noticed the stock springs were too soft and the optional stiff springs were out of stock, I tried to see if anything else would fit. I had some CEN, Mugen, Kyosho springs laying around that were the right length. The problem is that the Z-Car spring is bigger at one end than the other. The CEN and Mugen springs fit over the shock body, but the Z-Car spring retainer was too small. What I did was changed out the Z-Car shock ballend and use a Mugen ballend and retainer and everything fit, but I had a set of Kyosho Big Bores shocks and I have been very happy with them on my Inferno 777 so I just bolted them on and that is what I am currently using. But yes, if you want to use the Z-Car shocks with other springs you will probably need to change the shock ballend and spring retainer. Kyosho standard springs are too small, and the Kyosho Big Bore springs are too big for the Z-Car shocks.

SeanZ0r
01.09.2009, 11:53 PM
I finished building mine sometime last week, and Its just waiting for its bl setup and my RC-M parts to come in. Im debating dying the wheels and yellaaa wing black, the tires are unglued also.
http://hybr1d.net/uploader/files/21/new stuff/zcar1.jpg
http://hybr1d.net/uploader/files/21/new stuff/zcar2.jpg
http://hybr1d.net/uploader/files/21/new stuff/zcar3.jpg
I love how the zcar matches my soldering iron, thanks again noah!
http://hybr1d.net/uploader/files/21/new stuff/zcar4.jpg
(damn i love my gf's baller SLR digital camera, too bad no macro lens)

The Zcar is on sale again for 199.99$! There is another sale going on at hobbypeople! Regular price is now 379.99(100 less)

edit:I didn't check in the mail today, but the parts were in there. I installed my battery tray and countersunk the mounting screws, and Im just waiting till I get to work to change my diff fluid to like 10K or 15k then Ill install my center diff/motor mount.

Cain
01.10.2009, 06:02 PM
interesting thread. May be looking to do a different vehicle here, and for the price of 199.99 not bad. Anyway, for this vehicle, few questions I am hoping you guys can answer:

1. can you mount the kyosho 46T plastic spur?
2. Assuming a 46T spur mounted, what is the smallest pinion you can run using a neu 1512 sized finned motor?
3. Is there room with the conversion on to mount the Mamba monster ESC to the chassis and then mount the receiver on the center diff plate?

thanks for any info you can provide.

Shark413
01.10.2009, 08:08 PM
Cain,

1. I lined up a steel Kyosho spur with the stock Z-Car spur and the holes are slightly different, So I would say it is not an exact match (bolt pattern). Also, the Z-Car diff is shorter (ala Kyosho M9) so most other diffs won't fit.

2. Using the stock Z-Car 44T spur and a finned 1512, the smallest pinion I could fit was a 16T, which really gears the buggy way up. That is why I moved the rear chassis brace over to the otherside (see my post on page 5). Now I can go down to a 12T pinion if necessary. You use a smaller diameter motor, like a non-finned Neu or 60mm Medusa to get more clearence.

3. If your not going to use the mech brakes the ESC and RX can be fitted on a custom extended center diff plate. Because the MMM is so big there are not a lot places it can be mounted.

SeanZ0r
01.10.2009, 10:30 PM
At work today i test fitted the MMM 2200kv mamba motor and it fit fine with the stock rear brace. :yipi:
I put a 15T RRP mod 1 pinion and it meshs fine, with room to spare, so you could mount a 14T as well.(not pictured) Im really happy that it fit!
http://hybr1d.net/uploader/files/21/IMG00216.jpg
http://hybr1d.net/uploader/files/21/IMG00217.jpg
http://hybr1d.net/uploader/files/21/IMG00218.jpg

drkros3
01.11.2009, 03:18 AM
the z car went back down to 199.99$ we are having a clearance sale right now.

Shark413
01.11.2009, 04:48 AM
Here is my Z-car and I also got a box full of spare parts.

http://i142.photobucket.com/albums/r115/shark413/DSC05265.jpg

Cain
01.11.2009, 10:20 AM
is it being discontinued at hobbypeople?

Cain
01.11.2009, 10:22 AM
dumb question, but when you moved the chassis brace, did you need to drill a new location or just use different holes, and, could you use the stock chassis brace or did you need to use a tubed brace?

MetalMan
01.11.2009, 01:28 PM
Here is my Z-car and I also got a box full of spare parts.

http://i142.photobucket.com/albums/r115/shark413/DSC05265.jpg

You won't be needing them. I have not broken a single part on mine, aside from two bent shock shafts and a front CVD shaft is slightly bent.

drkros3
01.11.2009, 02:16 PM
is it being discontinued at hobbypeople?


nope not being discontinued. no one ever bought them at $360 or $460

Cain
01.11.2009, 02:37 PM
ok. Very tempted. Does this vehicle try to centralize the engine like the eight and other cars? curious how the battery pack placement would go.

MetalMan
01.11.2009, 03:27 PM
This buggy does centralize the engine, by tilting it inwards. Thus the rear brake has to be mounted on the rear diff.

Battery placement is cake with this buggy.

MrZ
01.11.2009, 04:10 PM
As per your question CAIN, my connections tall me that the Z-car is not going to be discontinued, only that they are trying to get rid of some of there old 2008 stock and by getting more Z-cars out there, people will be apt to buy parts from them. Which I might add, they carry a large number of parts that they H.P. doesn't want to get stuck with. The Z-car has been proven to be an excellent buggy and this has been proven time after time on the track. What the retailers are suffered from is the result of poor advertisement, someone definitely dropped the ball on this one, which resulted in poor sales. So what does H.P. do, they drop it to $199 again. That has to be a red flag as to their marketing strategy.I would keep an eye out with H.P. more then likely parts might be the next thing to drop.

Shark413
01.12.2009, 01:46 AM
dumb question, but when you moved the chassis brace, did you need to drill a new location or just use different holes, and, could you use the stock chassis brace or did you need to use a tubed brace?

Cain, I had to move the chassis brace over because I needed more room for my TeknoNeu 1515 brushless motor. I could not move it over enough to use the smaller pinions, it would hit the chassis brace. To move the brace you need to cut a small slot on the bulkhead brace for the top mount. I used the tubular Kyosho rear buggy brace because it lined up with the existing hole in the chassis. The stock brace when moved over did not line up with any of the existing holes. If your going nitro you want to leave the stock brace where it is.

SeanZ0r
01.13.2009, 05:19 AM
dyed those ugly stock yellow wheels and wing to black for 1.39$ thank you Rid dye
(disregard crappy glue job, and writing on tires)
http://hybr1d.net/uploader/files/21/blackmags.jpg

Trike
01.13.2009, 02:58 PM
Just an update. I ended up picking up some associated brown (stiff) springs and used ofna spring retainers to hold them in. The stock upper retainer fits the springs fine, and the ofna ballend retainer fit the stock ballend fine. The buggy is alot stiffer and does handle alot better. I filled the front with 50wt and rear with 40wt. I haven't gotten my body painted yet, but I took it out and did some very small jumps on a 1080 ramp into some grass. The buggy does jump really nice and feels like it has alot of control in-flight.

I managed to flip it couple times, scuffed up the front shocks and wing a bit, but nothing broke. Popping wheelies is definitely cool, but i'll probably be tuning the ESC a bit to tone it down. I'm not going to play with it hard until I get the body on. I don't want to break any of the electronics, if I flip it.

How do you guys land huge jumps with buggy's? I want to hit the jumps at a faster speed to get more air, but I'm afraid of bottoming out and banging up the chassis.

I found a small indoor track near my work, I'm going to see If I can race it there.

SeanZ0r
01.14.2009, 05:47 AM
thats some nice info there trike about those springs...I need to get a stiffer pair myself as well. I got an email back about those one springs that look like the Z-car ones that are flared in the center that A main sells, these ones http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_info.php/products_id/12695 and the dimensions are Inner diameter is 17mm both top and bottom, front and back. They are 71mm long (front) - 90mm long ( rear) Can anyone confirm these dimensions might work? Ill be checking my buggy tomorrow.

Trike
01.14.2009, 12:42 PM
I forgot to take some pics comparing them, I'll to get some later. but here's what they look like on the buggy.

http://turborocco.com/gallery2/d/780-2/IMG_3870.JPG

http://turborocco.com/gallery2/d/772-2/IMG_3874.JPG

http://turborocco.com/gallery2/d/776-2/IMG_3873.JPG

http://turborocco.com/gallery2/d/784-2/IMG_3868.JPG

http://turborocco.com/gallery2/d/788-2/IMG_3900.JPG

Shark413
01.16.2009, 01:19 AM
Early I mentioned that the shock valve on the stock Z-Car didn't look very effective, because it had holes in it. I have been using shock valves in my Kyosho and Revo PE for a while and decided to mod the Z-Car shocks to incorparate a true valve. I took some Traxxas variable damping valves and added them to the stock Z-Car shocks. The Traxxas valves are solid and block most of the oil flow for true valve action. The small screw used for the stock valve keeps the valve flap from rotating away from the holes. I had to drill out the uncovered hole to adjust the main flow rate (since the two other holes are now covered I needed to increase the main flow) I started by drilling it to 2mm. I can now definetly feel the valve action on the rebound stroke. I like to have more compression damping, and a faster rebound damping, with no valve the damping is basically the same both ways, with a true valve you can adjust the compression damping to suit your needs. As soon as I can find some stiffer springs I will test it out on the track.

http://i142.photobucket.com/albums/r115/shark413/DSC05302.jpg
Stock Z-Car shock pistons with Traxxas variable valve added. You can see the stock Z-Car valve with holes in it.

http://i142.photobucket.com/albums/r115/shark413/DSC05310.jpg
Valve, stop screw and a new 2mm hole.

http://i142.photobucket.com/albums/r115/shark413/DSC05303.jpg

http://i142.photobucket.com/albums/r115/shark413/Image2-1.jpg
Hard to see but I am checking the valve action with a small pin. Valve open.

http://i142.photobucket.com/albums/r115/shark413/Image1-4.jpg
Valve closed.

JtKirk
01.21.2009, 12:48 AM
Have 1 of these. Don't plan on using mech brakes so i didn't install them will that be a problem seeing that u installed them, although i see ur not using them. (no brake servo or linkage) :yes:

Trike
01.21.2009, 04:15 PM
I'm just about done with the body. I'm going to dye the wing black and get some black wheels for it. Here's a preview. Turned out pretty good, considering this is the first body i've ever painted.

http://turborocco.com/gallery2/d/836-2/DSC_7384.JPG

JtKirk
01.21.2009, 09:28 PM
Really look good :yes:

SeanZ0r
01.23.2009, 08:57 PM
Damn that body is tits, one of my co-workers might use his mad airbrush skills and paint my Zcar body. Which exact associated springs did you use?

Trike
01.27.2009, 12:56 AM
Cool, I'm happy with it now. I'll have to switch wheels when I actually go race. Stuff gets caked on pretty good between the spokes. Here's a few pics before I start driving and racing it.

http://turborocco.com/gallery2/d/847-2/DSC_7422c.jpg

http://turborocco.com/gallery2/d/850-2/DSC_7461c.jpg

http://turborocco.com/gallery2/d/853-2/DSC_7497c.jpg

http://turborocco.com/gallery2/d/856-2/DSC_7549c.jpg

http://turborocco.com/gallery2/d/859-2/DSC_7567c.jpg

Trike
01.27.2009, 01:02 PM
Damn that body is tits, one of my co-workers might use his mad airbrush skills and paint my Zcar body. Which exact associated springs did you use?

Thanks for the comment!
I had to search around for the part numbers for the springs, since I lost the packaging to them. But these should be it.

They're RC8 Bronze springs.
ASC89188 Team Associated Front Shock Spring (82) (RC8)
ASC89193 Team Associated Rear Shock Spring (70) (RC8)

I don't know any details about the springs, if anybody else knows anything about them, please share. I think they can be stiffer, but they do handle alot better than the stock springs. Though I'd like to try the progressive rate springs.

MrZ
01.28.2009, 06:00 PM
coooool !!!

SeanZ0r
01.29.2009, 04:12 PM
Thanks for the comment!
I had to search around for the part numbers for the springs, since I lost the packaging to them. But these should be it.

They're RC8 Bronze springs.
ASC89188 Team Associated Front Shock Spring (82) (RC8)
ASC89193 Team Associated Rear Shock Spring (70) (RC8)

I don't know any details about the springs, if anybody else knows anything about them, please share. I think they can be stiffer, but they do handle alot better than the stock springs. Though I'd like to try the progressive rate springs.


Thanks for the info trike, also what wheels are those?

MrZ
02.12.2009, 07:28 PM
Well here is my competed rig. http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/hh274/5150roc/Assocsc8.jpg

MrZ
02.12.2009, 07:41 PM
Here is my competed ZZZZZZZ !http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/hh274/5150roc/P2122066.jpg
http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/hh274/5150roc/P2122063.jpg

drkros3
02.12.2009, 09:18 PM
a guy next store to my work got the sh z car and i build it for him and made it brushless using mikes motor mount and battery tray with a mmm/2650 combo and 4s 30c batteries. and i have to say it was pretty nice. it had the stock 3000weight diff oil in the center and felt really good.

it made me re do my diffs in my rc8. going from 30,000 to 7000


But i have to say for only 200$ this car is pretty nice and hey they are still on sale!

V0RT3X
01.31.2010, 11:41 AM
Bumping it up. I've wanted a race RC for some time now, was thinking about 8ight but they are expensive from the US. Found a LRP S8BX roller for sale for 70€. It's supposed to be the same as this ZMXB-8.

http://www.lrp.cc/en/products/rc-cars/18-offroad/s8-bx-rtr/produkt/lrp-s8-bx-rtr-18-verbrenner-buggy-rtr/details/

http://img297.imageshack.us/img297/9783/snc00309.th.jpg (http://img297.imageshack.us/i/snc00309.jpg/)
http://img130.imageshack.us/img130/153/snc00308c.th.jpg (http://img130.imageshack.us/i/snc00308c.jpg/)
http://img15.imageshack.us/img15/3792/snc00306q.th.jpg (http://img15.imageshack.us/i/snc00306q.jpg/)
http://img683.imageshack.us/img683/7493/snc00305.th.jpg (http://img683.imageshack.us/i/snc00305.jpg/)
http://img202.imageshack.us/img202/6976/snc00304.th.jpg (http://img202.imageshack.us/i/snc00304.jpg/)

Is it worth the price? (might get it a bit lower)

It's got a broken wing, the clutch bell and the body are bad and it's missing a spring. Since I'd convert this to brushless that's not too important? LRP also sells its own E-conversion kit but I don't know if I would use it. Are spares easy to find in US shops? (for the ZMXB)

MetalMan
01.31.2010, 04:05 PM
It's a very good buggy, mine still hasn't broken anything other then 2 shock shafts and it has had bent front CVDs. I don't know how much 70€ is in USD but that still sounds like an excellent price.

V0RT3X
02.06.2010, 05:29 AM
http://www.impaktrc.com/product_info.php?products_id=3729

Good?

What are some compatible harder springs?

MetalMan
02.06.2010, 12:53 PM
That's a great deal for a motor. As for springs, I think earlier in this thread it was mentioned that RC8 springs work on stock shocks if you get the RC8 lower spring retainer. It might have been brown springs all around that work well.

Ryu James
03.24.2010, 03:31 AM
is there anywhere you can still buy this Z-car online? it seems very rare but i like how its unique. came across it in an old rc mag tonight and thought i would try to find one online. lucky for me i found the great thread on RCM. great looking rides everyone. where can i get one?

Shark413
03.24.2010, 03:47 PM
is there anywhere you can still buy this Z-car online? it seems very rare but i like how its unique. came across it in an old rc mag tonight and thought i would try to find one online. lucky for me i found the great thread on RCM. great looking rides everyone. where can i get one?


I think HobbyPeople still carries them (and parts). Every month or so they have them on sale, and I have seen them for as low as $199.

MetalMan
03.30.2010, 11:31 PM
Well unfortunately Hobby People discontinued the Z-Car line due to low sales. The low prices they've had on the kits and RTRs have been to blow them out. It's sad, but you can still find the buggy under the LRP brand (at least in Europe).

Nitro Newf
08.24.2010, 12:44 AM
Hey you don't have to give up on the Z-CAR. They are still available in US and Canada. The Canadian Dealer is www.terranovahobby.ca (http://www.terranovahobby.ca/)
Check out this post by the Terra Nova Hobby Team racer about his Z10XB http://www.rctech.net/forum/nitro-off-road/245037-sh-z-car.html
I have a new kit here that I have thought about converting to BL (for someone else) I am still a Nitro Adict.
The Z-Car Truggy should also be an interesting conversion because it is basically the same setup as the buggy.
I run the new Z-CAR Buggy, The Z10XB.
http://www.terranovahobby.ca/_mndata/terra/uploaded_images/977399.jpg

http://www.terranovahobby.ca/_mndata/terra/uploaded_images/977417.jpg

http://www.terranovahobby.ca/_mndata/terra/uploaded_images/977400.jpg

http://www.terranovahobby.ca/_mndata/terra/uploaded_images/978236.jpg

Nitro Newf
09.11.2010, 08:35 PM
Hey, does anyone else know where I can get a Motor mount for the ZMXB-8 Buggy. RC-Monster does have 1 in stock but when I went to purchase it, the shipping was way too high. Because I operate a website also, I know this is sometimes a mistake.
I have sent about 5 e-mails to Mike @ RC Monster, but no reply.

el tomaso
11.30.2010, 07:11 PM
I just ordered the LRP S8 BX. It was like 35% off in a norwegian store. I think building/converting a brand new kit is one of the best things in life:party: I can't wait. I will let my dog, Doffen, give me the car for christmas:tongue:

From RC Monster I ordered a motor mount, batt tray and MMPro. I have some castle/neu 1800kv motors, in both 1512 and 1518 size. I am planning to run 6s lipo, so I may have to move the rear brace. Looks easy to do from the pictures.

Thomas G

Nitro Newf
12.01.2010, 05:41 PM
I have built my Z-CAR ZMXB-8 Buggy and I put in the Brushless mount from RC Monster. I am new to Brushless and probably won't keep this buggy. I love the noise and smell of nitro, and after 10 years, you become addicted.
What would be a good ESC/Motor for a buggy like this?
Is there a way to run the Mechanical brakes or do I just use the motor for brakes?

http://www.terranovahobby.ca/media/kunena/attachments/65/2010-11-22_20-56-32_648_Stettler.jpg

simplechamp
12.02.2010, 12:42 AM
Wait until you try brushless, you might not have such a hard time giving the nitro up! :wink:

Mamba Max Pro and Castle or Tekin buggy motor (1512 size) is a good combo for 1/8 buggies.

Nitro Newf
12.02.2010, 01:06 AM
Wait until you try brushless, you might not have such a hard time giving the nitro up! :wink:

Mamba Max Pro and Castle or Tekin buggy motor (1512 size) is a good combo for 1/8 buggies.

I will not give up nitro. I enjoy running the nitro. I have a Losi Strike with a Dynamite fuze BL and it is fun for a few minutes, but then I put it away and take out the Nitro Buggy.

Batteries are a great invention, for flashlights.:lol:

el tomaso
12.02.2010, 03:54 PM
LRP buggy in da house:yes: Got it yesterday, but didn't start building because I would have to clean/tidy my workbench first. I have my own system, that most people would call a mess:wink: Today, after some thought, I just made the kitchen into workbench number two:lol:

Starting build now, I will post pics when it starts to look like a car.
Hope my RCM stuff comes before I finish the build...

Thomas G

Shark413
12.18.2010, 10:28 PM
Here is my Z-Car with the mech brakes hooked up. Its a little hard to see but I am running a brake servo just behind the ESC. Because the Z-Car runs the rear brake on the rear diff the motor has plenty of clearence.

http://i142.photobucket.com/albums/r115/shark413/P1010021-1.jpg

Shark413
12.18.2010, 10:30 PM
Here is a better shot of the mech brakes.

http://i142.photobucket.com/albums/r115/shark413/DSC05916.jpg

el tomaso
12.19.2010, 09:25 AM
Hey, my build has come to the electrics install. I have three motors to choose from, maybe you can help me. I have castle's 1800kv motors, in 1518 AND 1512 size. Then, I have a NEU 1509 2400kv....

I have a 4s 3300mah 35C battery to use for a ultra-lightweight setup with the 1509 and modded mamba max/MMPro. This was to go in my Hyper Mini STe, but I suddenly wanted to try it in the LRP buggy.

What is the weight of the LRP/Z-car in relation to other 1/8 buggies. Is it among the lightest, or not?

Of course the castle 1518 with 6s and MMM would be VERY much fun:lol: BUT it will make it harder to find room for the mec brakes, and I am going to use them.

What would you guys recomend? Thanks.

TG

Shark413
12.19.2010, 04:12 PM
I sold my first Z-Car (the one pictured above) but I am putting togther a second one. In my first buggy I ran a 1512 but it gets really hot here in the summer and heat was always an issue. So I switched to a bigger 1515 motor and it ran cool. For my second Z-Car buggy I am going to try the 1512 again (on 4s) and maybe a 1509 on 3s. On my first Z-Car I had the brake servo mounted on an extended center diff mount top plate (along with the esc) so it was completely out of the way of the battery/motor. I think I may run this buggy without the mech brakes and go with a lighter setup using the 1509 on 3s. I also have a Losi 8ight 2.0 and Hot Bodies D8 (both Tekno brushless conversions) and both run big motors (1515) and mech brakes and I want to compare them to a lighter buggy (Z-Car) using motor brakes for comparison.

el tomaso
01.04.2011, 01:24 PM
I ended up with MMPro and castle/neu 1512 1800kv, on 5s with mec brakes front and rear. I am going to try the 1518 too, just not at first:yes:

The mount and tray is RCM, and I have moved the rear brace over to the left side with some modding, this way I have no problems with small pinions. I am using the springs from a hyper 8,5 PRO with the ofna upper spring retainer over the stock spring cup(or what its name is), as adviced in this thread. Much better damping/spring ratio IMO.

If the snow will melt and evaporate, maybe one day I can drive this car too:whip:

Here are some low quality pics(long overdue, sorry), of the car almost finished. The wiring will be dealt with, I assure you:lol:

http://www.rc-monster.com/forum/picture.php?albumid=93&pictureid=782

http://www.rc-monster.com/forum/picture.php?albumid=93&pictureid=781

http://www.rc-monster.com/forum/picture.php?albumid=93&pictureid=783
That is my little schnauser drinking in the background:tongue:

Thomas G

el tomaso
02.18.2011, 09:48 AM
The snow finally melted, and I got to try my new LRP buggy on a football-field with short astroturf. It was just amazing, I loved the way it drove, lots of steering on and of power, which I like. I got about 15mins out of the 5s 30C 3200mah battery, which is just fine IMO. :yipi:

When LVC hit the temps were all under 100f, perfect. :party:

Only problem so far, the centre diff is leaking badly from the hole that has a set screw to seal it. I can guess all three diffs must be rebuilt with silicone/glue to seal the threads of the set-screw. Not fun, but had I read up before the build I'd never have this problem. Its well known.

Thomas G

el tomaso
03.16.2011, 05:35 AM
I got the differentials leak free with new oils(f-c-r , 5000-10.000-3000). I also changed to a xcellorin 1700kv motor, since the color is the same as the alu on the rest of the car:lol: Looks great.

This time I went to a gravel/sand parking lot near the woods, which was empty just as I hoped. The LRP buggy worked so well, and looked bad ass with my newly painted shell:yipi:(I took "before pics" so you can se it before any wear and tear). Again the performance was awesome, this is now my favourite buggy by far. Lots of steering on and off power:yes:

IMO the xcellorin 1700kv motor is a great motor on 5s(probably 6s too), lots of low end power and top speed was great in this light buggy.

I will post pics when I get home in a couple of days.

TG

simplechamp
03.16.2011, 10:46 AM
I have always heard the Xcelorin motors are pretty solid, should be a good setup. I think a lot of people just don't consider them because the ESCs have kind of a bad reputation.

el tomaso
03.17.2011, 06:00 AM
http://www.rc-monster.com/forum/picture.php?albumid=106&pictureid=852

My paint job.

TG

Nitro Newf
04.04.2011, 03:09 AM
I have a Z-CAR ZMXB-8 here which I have to convert to brushless for my team racer. It is the same as the LRP buggy. I already have the RC Monster mount for it. He will be running 2 - 2S 5000Mah Li-Po's. Do you think the Mamba Max 2200 would be a good setup? I am fairly new at this brushless stuff because I run Nitro. I would use the Xceleron set-up, but everything is out of stock at Horizon.
For the Mechanical brakes, I see how you set it up, but how is it wired in? Does it connect to the receiver for the same channel as the ESC? Any help with this would be appreciated.

el tomaso
08.03.2011, 12:23 AM
What diff oils do you other z-car owners use, I can't get it right with this buggy:no:

Thomas G

Nitro Newf
10.15.2011, 07:27 PM
What diff oils do you other z-car owners use, I can't get it right with this buggy:no:

Thomas G

I think my racer runs 5, 3 , and 1. He does very well with this setup, but he is also very smooth with the throttle.

We don't have to do the conversions anymore. Z-Car is finally releasing their Brushless Pro kit. I have some on order and can't wait to build one and try it out.