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snellemin
07.15.2010, 05:04 PM
I figured I post this up for you guys that want an affordable 12.5V 47A capable power supply to power your chargers.

The model number is power supply in question is 321632-001, DPS-600PB HP 575W Power Supply Proliant DL380 G4 (http://cgi.ebay.com/DPS-600PB-HP-575W-Power-Supply-Proliant-DL380-G4-/230494822188?cmd=ViewItem&pt=COMP_EN_Networking_Components&hash=item35aa8fdf2c). All you need to do for the PSU to "Turn on", is short 3 connectors. Basically two hot wires to ground. No load resistor is needed.
When you look at the back of the PSU, you'll find 4 blade plugs. The two on the left are ground and the other two on the right positive. In between the blade plugs, you'll find a set of 12 pin connectors. You'll see a pin that is shorter than the rest, which I call pin 6.

1 2 3
4 5 6<---short pin
7 8 9
10 11 12

Connect 6 and 10 to 8(ground). I believe pin 5 is ground as well. Note that the PSU fan will turn on when you connect it to the AC line. The fan will speed up, once you short the 3 pins together. I opted for plugs to the pins, but you can use a switch instead. You can use servo leads as well.

Solder your power wires to the blade pins and have fun charging.

http://i189.photobucket.com/albums/z240/snellemin/Powerlab8/DSCF0252.jpg
http://i189.photobucket.com/albums/z240/snellemin/Powerlab8/DSCF0250.jpg
http://i189.photobucket.com/albums/z240/snellemin/Powerlab8/DSCF0249.jpg

lincpimp
07.15.2010, 05:40 PM
Did basically the same thing with a 47amp server p/s. Only had to jump 2 pins on that. Works great, I have 2, 1 as a backup. Only paid 20 bucks each.

Nice thing about the one you linked is that it takes a std pc power cord. i had to hardwire mine.

BrianG
07.15.2010, 06:09 PM
Have you opened it up, and if so, is there a way to boost the 12v to something higher? ~14v would be ideal. Also, do you know what the other pins do? Maybe there is a 12v sense wire for the regulator which can be fiddled with to trick the PS...

snellemin
07.15.2010, 07:18 PM
Naah, I haven't bothered opening it up. I wanted something simple and cheap. A regular ATX is too much work compared to this PSU. I will ask at work if boosting the voltage is even feasible with this PSU. I have no schematic of what the other pins do. I was pulling 25A last nite out of the PSU and the charger stated 12.8V@25A. When I get a few more, I'll open one up.

http://i189.photobucket.com/albums/z240/snellemin/Powerlab8/DSCF0257.jpg

ANGRY-ALIEN
07.15.2010, 10:58 PM
Yep... I got a pair of these a couple months ago from ebay... took some time to figure out what pin combination would start the 12v rail, but when i did, I was not disappointed...
I'm loving them plenty... very stable and very cheap... The fans are pretty loud though when the 12v rail is turned. I added a switch on mine and used deans for the output...


A few photos:


http://lh5.ggpht.com/_4vPm5E8J5HA/TD_Gz9GKzpI/AAAAAAAABss/qKYBoSJPTOs/s720/DSC_5353.jpg


http://lh6.ggpht.com/_4vPm5E8J5HA/TD_GzyFPFHI/AAAAAAAABsw/DbFUMPHp54w/s720/DSC_5351.jpg

jhautz
07.15.2010, 11:09 PM
I got one of these coming. $14.99 w/free shipping. How can I go wrong. Great post!!

snellemin
07.15.2010, 11:13 PM
Great to see fellow members with this PSU. You can't beat 15 bucks hey Jhautz.

ANGRY-ALIEN
07.15.2010, 11:17 PM
That's a great jhautz...

scarletboa
07.16.2010, 04:08 AM
is it possible to put two of those psu's in series? i am thinking about getting a icharger 3010 (1000w) and it supposedly runs best on 24v.

ANGRY-ALIEN
07.16.2010, 08:50 AM
It can be done, but at a big, big, big risk... I would not advice it... you will need to remove the wall 'ground' on at least one of the supplies (if you don't, they will shot down when you try to connect them)... if this is done, the metal case will be 'energized' (a technical person can step in here)... meaning if both cases were to be come in contact, you will have a big spark/short... I tried with one ground removed and both grounds removed... you can actually measure the voltage between the two cases when both grounds are off (12v).

If you really need to do this, keep them both separate with some insulation... you will still be running a risking of damaging the supplies internals without them being grounded...


Alien

BrianG
07.16.2010, 09:45 AM
Yeah, you don't want to remove the grounds because then if the case starts "floating hot" due to some malfunction or whatever, you have no protection against electrocution. But it's not just the grounds. The neutral wire is electrically the same point as the ground wire in the electrical box.

scarletboa
07.17.2010, 01:49 PM
so, as long as i don't let the cases touch, it should be fine? i would likely mount them securely on a shelf with about 6 inches between them.

i was already aware of the case being grounded on most PSUs. i found out on my own the hard way. it's a good thing the specific PSU i was using had a built-in short protector circuit thing that shut it down and wouldn't turn back on until after i unplugged it and plugged it back in.

snellemin
07.17.2010, 03:35 PM
Yup as long as they don't make contact, you should be able to wire them in series. I personally am not going to do it. You never know what will happen with small kids around.

jhautz
07.17.2010, 11:58 PM
I go mine in the mail today. It's alot smaller than I thought it would be. I have a 30A ps from a server that I have been using for a few years and it's 3 times the size of this one. I'm pleasantly surprised if it delivers the amps it's rated for.

snellemin
07.22.2010, 11:28 PM
I got the power supply to shut down when my charger was pulling 50A from it. Unplugged the PSU and it's up and running again. This time I set my charger at a 47A limit. I'll see what happens.

BrianG
07.22.2010, 11:50 PM
That's why I asked about the possibility of boosting the 12v to something like 14v. The higher voltage will require less current for a given wattage the charger is pulling. 47A @12v = 40A @ 14v. 47A @ 14v would get you an extra 100w out of it...

snellemin
07.23.2010, 12:02 AM
PSU didn't shut down at 47A limit. Good stuff.

I understand the higher voltage efficiency BG. The PSU server team said that it will be too much of a hassle to tweak the voltage. Those Server PSU are too tightly regulated, compared to the ATX stuff. I do have another PSU that goes about 68A, 80A@220VAC. But I have to figure out how to turn that sucker on.

I'm just a happy camper that I'm able to charger my A123's at 25A~10.8C. The charger reads 12.8V for the PSU under load. At rest it's 12.4V.

etc1006
07.23.2010, 01:25 AM
j, where'd you get yours from? I only found them for $15 plus like another $15 shipping...

kazuaki
07.23.2010, 02:20 AM
Can you post the physical dimensions of this psu? Thanks

Nard Cox
07.23.2010, 02:58 AM
I'm contacting the seller to see what shipping to the Netherlands would cost.

My 50W charger isn't cutting it anymore :lol:

Rampokker
07.23.2010, 05:52 AM
Good luck! I tried it too, and the cheapest option to New Zealand was $50 US. :gasp:

snellemin
07.23.2010, 08:28 AM
Can you post the physical dimensions of this psu? Thanks


11"x3"x2.25"

whitrzac
07.23.2010, 10:20 AM
any idea if these would work?? they should be 100+amps...


http://www.compuvest.com/Desc.jsp?iid=1159868

snellemin
07.23.2010, 10:54 AM
They will all work, if you know how to turn them on.

ANGRY-ALIEN
07.23.2010, 11:12 AM
Yep... you just need to find out what pin combination will start the 12v rail... maybe you can do some research on google (also rcgroups...
lots of guys doing mods on these power supplies)... l am sure someone figured it out already.

Alien

maneba
07.23.2010, 01:59 PM
is it possible to put two of those psu's in series? i am thinking about getting a icharger 3010 (1000w) and it supposedly runs best on 24v.

No, but you can use them in parallelel.

+ with + and - with -

So you double the amp.

Nard Cox
07.23.2010, 09:33 PM
Good luck! I tried it too, and the cheapest option to New Zealand was $50 US. :gasp:
Same here :(

''Hello, Sure we will ship to the Netherlands.

Priority Mail is $50 and Express Mail is $65

- trademoon''

That sucks.

jhautz
07.27.2010, 11:18 PM
j, where'd you get yours from? I only found them for $15 plus like another $15 shipping...

ebay


I grabbed the last one I saw at that price :na:


Im sure more will show up if they haven't already.

kazuaki
07.27.2010, 11:20 PM
I was able to get 2 of them for $25 shipped. They should be here tomorrow.

Nard Cox
07.28.2010, 04:48 AM
I send an email asking how much if would cost to ship 2,3,4, and 5 units. If shipping will not get $50 more per unit I might just buy a bunch and sell them here *fingers crossed*.

kazuaki
08.04.2010, 12:57 PM
Thanks for the info. I've got mine up and running.

I soldered on some power leads and made a jumper from servo leads to short out pins 6, 8, and 10. This jumper stays in place all the time.

http://www.nuibe.com/rc/ps_out.jpg


The reason I can leave the jumper in place is because I added a power switch to the input side.

http://www.nuibe.com/rc/ps_switch.jpg

So far, it seems to work well...

Nard Cox
08.05.2010, 04:44 AM
Man those output cables look massive!

Q: the input power = a US connector?
http://www.easybizchina.com/picture/product/newpic/powercord_4E9E22177BB0CFCE.gif
If I would buy one I would need to get myself a converter, or a cable like that.

snellemin
08.05.2010, 08:56 AM
The power supply supports 240AC. You just need to get the proper cable for it. I have some laying around here.

kazuaki
08.05.2010, 12:03 PM
To those that have been using this a while...is heat even a concern the way we are using these? I'm just wondering about stepping down to a slower fan. The one in this thing is insane, super loud.

ANGRY-ALIEN
08.05.2010, 12:35 PM
Yeah... that fan screams man:lol:... i think the design and layout of the cooling system was really because of its intended use... stuck inside a hot blade server running for countless
hours allowing them to get a little warm... I am guessing since we have them out of those hot, cramped spaces they are 'use to', they'll run much cooler... so if you have a fan that will be
quieter and can still move a good volume of air through PS... it should be fine... run some tests and make some comparisons with temps...

Alien

bruce750i
08.05.2010, 01:13 PM
These PSU's are nice, easy & cheap! Thanks Snellemin!

snellemin
08.05.2010, 02:24 PM
These PSU's are nice, easy & cheap!


That is what I was going for.

snellemin
08.05.2010, 04:37 PM
Here's a pic of the Europlugs that I have laying around.

http://i189.photobucket.com/albums/z240/snellemin/IMG_0068.jpg

Nard Cox
08.06.2010, 02:58 AM
Yeah, stupid question. Shouldn't known it's just a normal plug, those things are universal. That's indeed the euro plug like we have.

Concerning the fan. Perhaps make a air-conduct and mount a 120mm fan on it. They can run slow (be quiet) and still move massive amounts of air.

Nard Cox
08.09.2010, 10:29 AM
OK, I've ordered myself a new Hyperion EOS0615i Duo3 for 170 euro / $225 shipped (not a bad price, not even compared to US prices).

So I'm looking into a PSU again and I typed this model into ebay.de and voila (http://cgi.ebay.nl/HP-575-W-Netzteil-fur-DL380-G4-DPS-600PB-321632-001-/390202674586#shId).
But it's more than four times as expensive and it's a USED model.
$65 incl. shipping to NL and $50 to Germany.

So if anyone has some cheaper suggestions let me know.

snellemin
08.09.2010, 11:25 AM
Someone from the States could bring it to Holland en dan kan jij het dan ophalen.

Nard Cox
08.09.2010, 12:27 PM
Sounds like a good plan, wanneer kom je naar Nederland?

Just found this used one (http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=290454967572&ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT), $41 shipped to the Netherlands. The prices they ask are suprisingly far apart. I found a Dutch shop who charged $250 for this PSU.

Byte
08.09.2010, 12:56 PM
OK, I've ordered myself a new Hyperion EOS0615i Duo3 for 170 euro / $225 shipped (not a bad price, not even compared to US prices).

So I'm looking into a PSU again and I typed this model into ebay.de and voila (http://cgi.ebay.nl/HP-575-W-Netzteil-fur-DL380-G4-DPS-600PB-321632-001-/390202674586#shId).
But it's more than four times as expensive and it's a USED model.
$65 incl. shipping to NL and $50 to Germany.

So if anyone has some cheaper suggestions let me know.


Nardos! You bought yourself a Hyperion :oh: Nice!

snellemin
08.09.2010, 12:58 PM
Mijn schoonmoeder is hier, maar ze gaat pas eind van deze maand terug. Ze woont in Breda.

$41 isn't so bad though, compared to some power supply's that get sold here for 150 http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_info.php/cPath/1574_231/products_id/169342/n/ProTek-R-C-Super-Pro-40-Five-Output-Regulated-DC-Power-Supply-w-USB-138V-40A-520W

Nard Cox
08.09.2010, 02:36 PM
Byte, yeah I couldn't resists. Charging 4S packs with 50W takes ages ...

snellemin, ben je van NL naar Houston verhuisd?

I'll keep it in mind, altough it's a 250km drive for me which isn't free either. Think I will order 2 or 3 ... one for spare and another for selling.

snellemin
08.09.2010, 02:43 PM
Naah, ik ben een Surinamer. 250km is quite a distance for sure. And gas ain't cheap either.

VZW
08.09.2010, 03:01 PM
How is this deal?
CLICK (http://cgi.ebay.com/6-Lot-Proliant-DL380-G2-Hotplug-Power-Supply-228509-001-/270618480101?pt=PCA_UPS) These are the right ones right?

VZW
08.09.2010, 03:09 PM
Okay just realized that it is the GX I need to be looking at. The ones I linked to are of okay wattage but I don't know that they will be as easily converted.

Nard Cox
08.11.2010, 08:08 AM
Yesterday evening I bought myself 3 of these (http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=290454967572), they shipped this morning.

They look pretty identical to the one in this thread BUT I've just found that the one in this topic has model nr : 321632-001 and the ones I've bought are : 338022-001. Hopefully it will work *fingers crossed*. I will let you know :)

Bmr4life
08.13.2010, 02:12 PM
Nice. I did the same with two old server power supplies I got free from work. They're only 32a, but I only need one to get max wattage to my 208B.

Nard Cox
08.13.2010, 02:35 PM
The reason I can leave the jumper in place is because I added a power switch to the input side.

http://www.nuibe.com/rc/ps_switch.jpg

So far, it seems to work well...
Any pics on how you did that?

I received my three PSU's today. All three work flawlessly. :)

How do you shut down the PSU, just by pulling out the power cable? The fan makes a noice that is freaky loud ... definately need a solution for that. The PSU itself is also WAY smaller than I expected, even when I knew the dimensions...

Will post a pic tomorrow, going to solder some leads and stuff now. Thanks for the tip, this saved me a nice buck.

Metallover
08.16.2010, 10:15 PM
I got mine up and running last week... Thing sounds like a hair dryer! Prank your roommate by putting it in the bathroom for awhile!:lol:

It would probably be possible to open it up a little bit and use multiple quieter fans.. I might have a go at it.

Thanks for the post snellemin!!

Nard Cox
08.17.2010, 04:00 AM
The three victims:

http://lh4.ggpht.com/_oXx8nzDDQME/TGpA1zYutdI/AAAAAAAAD_U/XkkrSSsW5pA/P1060917.JPG

Opening it up:
http://lh4.ggpht.com/_oXx8nzDDQME/TGpA4JPlr5I/AAAAAAAAD_k/iLBBkvIpC54/P1060922.JPG
http://lh6.ggpht.com/_oXx8nzDDQME/TGpA4kydkrI/AAAAAAAAD_o/kV9mffla1hI/P1060923.JPG

The noisemaker:
http://lh5.ggpht.com/_oXx8nzDDQME/TGpA5Gua-sI/AAAAAAAAD_s/M4Q6dS4IPk0/P1060924.JPG

Possible solution?
http://lh4.ggpht.com/_oXx8nzDDQME/TGpA5lzPOZI/AAAAAAAAD_w/8ABEFQDFiGc/P1060925.JPG



I tested the PSU's shortly with my EOS0615i Duo2. When charging a 4S 5A pack with 5A/1C the voltage is at ~12.35, when I put it at 10A/2C the voltage drops down to ~12.17v and I will only charge at ~9.75A, any ideas? I saw snellemin's stay at 12.8v @ 25.4A:

Naah, I haven't bothered opening it up. I wanted something simple and cheap. A regular ATX is too much work compared to this PSU. I will ask at work if boosting the voltage is even feasible with this PSU. I have no schematic of what the other pins do. I was pulling 25A last nite out of the PSU and the charger stated 12.8V@25A. When I get a few more, I'll open one up.

http://i189.photobucket.com/albums/z240/snellemin/Powerlab8/DSCF0257.jpg

snellemin
08.17.2010, 04:06 PM
Mine might be a fluke man. As long as it works right.

Nard Cox
08.17.2010, 04:17 PM
True, but I though it was strange that it only charged at 9.75A and not 10A ... Oh well I will empty some packs soon and try charging two 4s 5a both at 10A/2C.

mistercrash
08.19.2010, 02:33 PM
Pardon me if I seem ignorant, but is there any way to use those power supplies to build something as powerful as this.

http://www.rivergatedist.com/bulldog_90.htm

I had a Rivergate PS years ago and I loved it. It was a 30 amp model which was perfect at the time. But although they are really good and powerful from what I remember, they are way too pricey.

snellemin
08.19.2010, 05:00 PM
Sure you can, but you will have to wire them up in series, which is dangerous if you don't know what you are doing.

ANGRY-ALIEN
08.19.2010, 05:33 PM
Pardon me if I seem ignorant, but is there any way to use those power supplies to build something as powerful as this.

http://www.rivergatedist.com/bulldog_90.htm

I had a Rivergate PS years ago and I loved it. It was a 30 amp model which was perfect at the time. But although they are really good and powerful from what I remember, they are way too pricey.

You can also look at one of these - HP DL580/ML570 G3 Power Supply 1300W Watts Power Supply (http://shop.ebay.com/?_from=R40&_trksid=m570&_nkw=HP+DL580%2FML570+G3+Power+Supply)


Photos below taken from rcgroups (http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1005309):

http://static.rcgroups.com/forums/attachments/6/9/1/2/6/a2356625-145-ConnectionsPhoto.jpg?d=1235262571



http://static.rcgroups.com/forums/attachments/6/9/1/2/6/a2356624-42-Connections.jpg?d=1235262571



Alien

mistercrash
08.19.2010, 09:13 PM
Sure you can, but you will have to wire them up in series, which is dangerous if you don't know what you are doing.

I don't know what I'm doing so I won't go that route :lol:

stampy
08.20.2010, 10:43 AM
I was thinking of wiring 2 of the 47amp power supply's up. I'm no electrical engineer, so how would your house hold 120 volt circuit handle almost 100amps of power? arnt most circuits in a house only 15amps?

whitrzac
08.20.2010, 07:29 PM
120v at 15amps is 1800 watts
12v at 100amps is only 1200 watts
120v at 10amps is 1200 watts..


at 100 amps, the wires might start to twitch when you turn it on...

florianz
08.28.2010, 03:44 PM
great stuff!
I've converted a used 500w CP-Power-Supply (very cheap at ebay, sufficient for me), wich works fine. There's no need to spend so much money for a overpriced power supply. just go for used "brand"-stuff and you'll be ok, I wouldn't trust the no-name.

brushlessboy16
09.01.2010, 11:30 PM
Just bought 2 of these (http://cgi.ebay.com/HP-Proliant-DL380-G3-Power-Supply-HP-Part-194989-002-/300459069391?pt=COMP_EN_Networking_Components&hash=item45f4c18fcf) guys! Gonna wire them in parallel for 800 watts, Power all my chargers or My Amp and subs in my dorm room....:lol:

Couldnt pass up a dollar a peice! was 17 dollars for 2, shipped. Get em while there hot

Nard Cox
09.02.2010, 02:23 AM
OMG .. Only in America ... :lol:

brushlessboy16
09.02.2010, 08:30 AM
OMG .. Only in America ... :lol:

W00t!:party::party:

brushlessboy16
09.07.2010, 11:29 AM
http://i152.photobucket.com/albums/s195/asdf1010/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG00225-20100907-1035.jpg
http://i152.photobucket.com/albums/s195/asdf1010/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG00224-20100907-1035.jpg

ANGRY-ALIEN
09.07.2010, 11:45 AM
Good find man :yes:... just be careful when wiring them in parallel... keep the cases separated and hands off during operation...


Alien

brushlessboy16
09.07.2010, 05:04 PM
Will do Alien, Progress pics. Got them Wired up, and all the startup wiring done so the thing actually arms...
Great guide for the HP #194989 and HP #280127 can be found here:

CLICK ME (http://www.qsl.net/w8zpf/Files/Powersup.pdf)
Have yet to put a load on it, or plug it in yet, need connectors to go to my load of choice (700watt amp and dual 8in subs) :lol:

Progress Pics:

Grounding the (PS_enable), (PS_interlock) and (PS_kill) signal pins
http://i152.photobucket.com/albums/s195/asdf1010/Power%20Supplies/PICT0181.jpg
http://i152.photobucket.com/albums/s195/asdf1010/Power%20Supplies/PICT0182.jpg

12Ga Power Leads attached, Negatives on the outside, large 12v rail in the center
http://i152.photobucket.com/albums/s195/asdf1010/Power%20Supplies/PICT0186.jpg
http://i152.photobucket.com/albums/s195/asdf1010/Power%20Supplies/PICT0185.jpg


Ran the 2nd (PSU_Interlock_2) Pin to +12v

http://i152.photobucket.com/albums/s195/asdf1010/Power%20Supplies/PICT0193.jpg
http://i152.photobucket.com/albums/s195/asdf1010/Power%20Supplies/PICT0192.jpg
http://i152.photobucket.com/albums/s195/asdf1010/Power%20Supplies/PICT0191.jpg
http://i152.photobucket.com/albums/s195/asdf1010/Power%20Supplies/PICT0190.jpg


They are complete
http://i152.photobucket.com/albums/s195/asdf1010/Power%20Supplies/PICT0194.jpg

snellemin
09.07.2010, 07:33 PM
Nice!!!

JERRY2KONE
09.07.2010, 08:07 PM
Nice thread. Good info. It looks like some comapnies are doing some server upgrades, and a few employees are cashing in on the out dated power supplies?? I know allot of businesses could care less where the old equipment goes when these upgrades are in progress. It's just too much work for them to advertise, sell, and ship old equipment, so they just junk them and move on. Nice home resolution though. I have a friend who does this kind of work for a living so I will have to ask him to hook me up with a few of these for my own power supply needs. He maintains a couple of very large server facilities for a security company, which handles the majority of American banks account transactions across the USA, so I am sure that he can come up with a few PSU's for me. Using the info on here I should be able to setup a sizable PSU for my R/C needs.

brushlessboy16
09.07.2010, 08:16 PM
Lesons learned today,
-Heatsinks contain floating high voltage
-My power supply sounds like an idling 747....
-My subs run just fine on 1 400watt unit.
-80hz shakes my room, my house, and my neighbors house
-80hz blasting aggrovates my parents in about a minute.

:) now i have a spare 400watt unit

snellemin
09.07.2010, 08:30 PM
lol, I use to have 4 10" subs in a gigantic box in my room. That sucker went below 10hz. Went on every morning as a alarm. Imagine 600W rms going off at 9am. I use to run car amps. I've have a few other Server PSU and plan to setup a system in my garage with the spare car audio that I have left over.

my high school setup.

http://i189.photobucket.com/albums/z240/snellemin/oldsetup.jpg

ANGRY-ALIEN
09.07.2010, 10:45 PM
Lesons learned today,
-Heatsinks contain floating high voltage
-My power supply sounds like an idling 747....
-My subs run just fine on 1 400watt unit.
-80hz shakes my room, my house, and my neighbors house
-80hz blasting aggrovates my parents in about a minute.

:) now i have a spare 400watt unit

A good reason for them not to touch when they are on... you can get a big spark between them... you can even short the internals... did you remove the ground to get them running together?

brushlessboy16
09.07.2010, 10:48 PM
A good reason for them not to touch when they are on... you can get a big spark between them... you can even short the internals... did you remove the ground to get them running together?

It was unplugged, just had not discharged yet,

Amp was running fine on just 1 PSU tho

ANGRY-ALIEN
09.07.2010, 10:55 PM
Yep... those Caps will hold a bit for a while...

brushlessboy16
09.08.2010, 12:26 AM
http://i152.photobucket.com/albums/s195/asdf1010/Power%20Supplies/PICT0196.jpg

brushlessboy16
09.08.2010, 12:28 AM
lol, I use to have 4 10" subs in a gigantic box in my room. That sucker went below 10hz. Went on every morning as a alarm. Imagine 600W rms going off at 9am. I use to run car amps. I've have a few other Server PSU and plan to setup a system in my garage with the spare car audio that I have left over.

my high school setup.

http://i189.photobucket.com/albums/z240/snellemin/oldsetup.jpg


Hey are those pioneer 10's in the top center? Those are what Im currently running, have the model number for them?

snellemin
09.08.2010, 12:35 AM
I don't have the model number. I do remember that they are the free-air models. I still have 6 of them. I would have to uninstall them to see the model number. They could be TS-W253C .

brushlessboy16
09.08.2010, 12:40 AM
I don't have the model number. I do remember that they are the free-air models. I still have 6 of them. I would have to uninstall them to see the model number.

maybe thats why mine sound like crap in my ported box...

I have an old gm-x962 pioineer amp that works great!
Drivers apparently need replacing:whistle:

snellemin
09.08.2010, 12:47 AM
I used those speakers in isobaric, aperiodic, sealed and bandbass boxes. Never had issues with them. I even use to DJ with them.

snellemin
09.08.2010, 12:48 AM
I have a family now, so my sound system is way smaller...:cry:

http://i189.photobucket.com/albums/z240/snellemin/DSCF0438.jpg

brushlessboy16
09.08.2010, 12:53 AM
I used those speakers in isobaric, aperiodic, sealed and bandbass boxes. Never had issues with them. I even use to DJ with them.

Maybe not then.. Found out my box is a Bandpass enclosure... if that means anything..

Sounds good in my 01' Kia sportage...

snellemin
09.08.2010, 01:04 AM
naah, it could be your amp. These woofers need some power to sound good. I would stick some pillow stuffing in your box. It could be that your box is leaking air if the woofers are in their own chambers. I also use to add dynamat inside the box itself.

Here's a link of the box that holds 4 of those woofers. http://www.cardomain.com/ride/426334/2

sujuara
09.08.2010, 09:30 AM
what about this power supply...

http://www.rc-monster.com/forum/showthread.php?t=28031

brushlessboy16
09.10.2010, 10:33 AM
Cleaned up my wiring, put an anderson 50amp connector on it(same one I use in my car) for quick changes
http://i152.photobucket.com/albums/s195/asdf1010/Power%20Supplies/PICT0197.jpg

snellemin
09.10.2010, 01:24 PM
Looking good BB.

I remember having a box like yours in my room. I had it setup in a corner with the ports firing up. Chicks like sitting on the plexiglass while the music booms.

brushlessboy16
09.10.2010, 01:51 PM
Looking good BB.

I remember having a box like yours in my room. I had it setup in a corner with the ports firing up. Chicks like sitting on the plexiglass while the music booms.

Lol Ill try that. what power supply were you running back in the day ?

snellemin
09.11.2010, 05:17 PM
Lol Ill try that. what power supply were you running back in the day ?


I use to run a bunch of caps with a cheapo car battery charger. Worked out great.

Brow
09.18.2010, 10:14 AM
Thanks for this thread Snellemin. I got hold of one of these HP PSU's for $50 AUS off Ebay and it was local pickup. Works well and is a lot smaller than I thought it would be. Heaps better than the multiple 100's I would have had to spend to get the same current from a commercial PSU. Mine gets 12.48v no load.

Brow

snellemin
09.18.2010, 12:12 PM
I was in the same boat man. I was seeking a simple high quality 40+A 12V power supply without breaking the bank. I also didn't want to spend too much time hacking a regular computer power supply. Nice thing is, that I work at HP and have access to the Server group and PSU group. I got to open a few PSU's up and asked the designers and engineers what the limitations where and what not. I went on Ebay and started inputting different HP part numbers and found the older stuff to be dirt cheap and easy to mod. Easy as in, not having to open up the Power Supply at all. I also found that some people on rcgroups have used the same power supply I have listed. I figured that 47A PSU is more than enough for the majority of the people and $20 dollars is more than affordable for nearly anybody in this hobby.

radioman193
09.22.2010, 05:07 PM
i needed 90 Amps
for the sound in here...
and 110amps when im pushen it but it still wants more
so i use a 750cca battery when i want full power.

for my custom Moded amps on
6 Main's
and a pair of Shocker 12" Apocalipse woofers
in a custom folded horn enclosure.

http://img80.imageshack.us/img80/4183/fotosshocker268yd3.jpg

http://www.frontiernet.net/~radioman193193/Left.JPG

I miss my Sound off's / IASCA and IdBl

bryan
09.22.2010, 06:22 PM
Nice fan

radioman193
09.22.2010, 06:30 PM
it was before i got the ac in back here and it was over 100 that day and only went down to like 91 or 93 that nite.
so the old junk fan was the best way to keep things cool.
plus the amps dont dissipate heat well with the builtin fans mounted vertically on the wall like that.

but there happy now.

slimthelineman
09.22.2010, 07:28 PM
sweet setup!

radioman193
09.22.2010, 08:41 PM
Thanks ...

its part of my pirate radio station controle center for
88.9 Thunderground radio.
http://www.frontiernet.net/~radioman193193/my%20logo.JPG

500Watt stereo @ 88.9 Fm.
Real Radio no web streams.
its Been on the air for 7 years now

i got all new 22" Monitors and well ill just say its been All upgraded from when these pictures were taken.........

http://www.frontiernet.net/~radioman193193/Leftside.JPG

http://www.frontiernet.net/~radioman193193/center.jpg

http://www.frontiernet.net/~radioman193193/right.JPG

snellemin
09.23.2010, 10:45 AM
very nice setup man

Metallover
09.25.2010, 10:18 PM
Tonight when I was charging my 6s 30ah pack, my Hyperion EOS0610i charger failed while running off of the HP power supply in the OP of this thread. I doubt it was the PS's fault, but I thought I would post it here just in case. I was kind-of pushing the charger, but it hasn't failed after months of use until now. Also, I have lost a power supply charging this pack too; maybe my main is the culprit..

To fix this problem I just bought two more power 575w power supplies for $26. I'll mount two on some plywood and wire em up for 24v to run a new charger... Maybe a 1000w charger to charge my 6s 30ah pack?? :smile:

florianz
09.28.2010, 03:16 PM
hi there,
I am trying to get an other power supply, and have found an p/s "750W p/s ASR2500PS Intel Modul for SR2500". it supplies 62 amps (!!), I just wonder where to connect what... it looks a bit different than the HP serverer power supplies.
http://i52.tinypic.com/14slegg.jpg

I have three chargers (average stuff) on one pc 500w p/s and sometimes it seems not to be sufficient.

otherwise I am going to get a 800w PC p/s, it may be a bit easier for me, 'cos I have already converted one. this server stuff is new to me...:neutral:
edit:
this one might be an alternative:
http://i54.tinypic.com/2czybh2.jpg

many thanks
florian

BrianG
09.28.2010, 03:57 PM
That 750w supply is only good for 20A on the 12v rail. However, from online documentation, it also has a -12v rail rated for 20A as well. If true, you could get 24v @ 20A from that...

BrianG
09.28.2010, 04:01 PM
...To fix this problem I just bought two more power 575w power supplies for $26. I'll mount two on some plywood and wire em up for 24v to run a new charger... Maybe a 1000w charger to charge my 6s 30ah pack?? :smile:

I would be surprised if that works. More than likely, both supplies share a common ground, and when you hook them in series, you will short out the output on one of them.

florianz
09.28.2010, 04:09 PM
hm, on the sticker it says:
http://i55.tinypic.com/se0mj4.jpg

what do you mean, is it possible to "add" voltage?

BrianG
09.28.2010, 04:28 PM
Well, that's weird. I did a quick search and the stickers I saw didn't say that. It should work fine then.

If you have a positive and negative supply rated for the same current, you can hook up your load across the two; load+ to supply+ and load ground to supply-. You see that all the time with regular power transformers: you'll have your main outputs, but then also a center tap. If you use the center tap you get a + and - supply. But if you just use the main outputs (not center tap), you get the full voltage. RadioShacks transformers are like this. Like their 12v models; they're rated 12.6v, but if you use the center tap you get +6.3v and -6.3v.

Metallover
09.28.2010, 06:41 PM
I would be surprised if that works. More than likely, both supplies share a common ground, and when you hook them in series, you will short out the output on one of them.

I saw earlier in this thread something about it...

Here's good how-to on converting two 12v power supplies to one 24v power supply - http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1164359

BrianG
10.01.2010, 08:43 PM
I figured I post this up for you guys that want an affordable 12.5V 47A capable power supply to power your chargers.

The model number is power supply in question is 321632-001, DPS-600PB HP 575W Power Supply Proliant DL380 G4 (http://cgi.ebay.com/DPS-600PB-HP-575W-Power-Supply-Proliant-DL380-G4-/230494822188?cmd=ViewItem&pt=COMP_EN_Networking_Components&hash=item35aa8fdf2c). All you need to do for the PSU to "Turn on", is short 3 connectors. Basically two hot wires to ground. No load resistor is needed.
When you look at the back of the PSU, you'll find 4 blade plugs. The two on the left are ground and the other two on the right positive. In between the blade plugs, you'll find a set of 12 pin connectors. You'll see a pin that is shorter than the rest, which I call pin 6.

1 2 3
4 5 6<---short pin
7 8 9
10 11 12

Connect 6 and 10 to 8(ground). I believe pin 5 is ground as well. Note that the PSU fan will turn on when you connect it to the AC line. The fan will speed up, once you short the 3 pins together. I opted for plugs to the pins, but you can use a switch instead. You can use servo leads as well.

Solder your power wires to the blade pins and have fun charging.



I picked one of these up for $25 shipped and it came in today. And of course I opened it up as soon as I got home. Bad news is that there is no adjustment pot inside; I even looked under the heatsinks. The good news is that I was able to boost the output to 12.95v. Not much, but still some.

All I did was create a voltage divider consisting of a 220 ohm resistor and a diode. Tied the + output to the resistor, the other end of the resistor to the anode of the diode, and the cathode of the diode to the - output. I then tied a wire from the diode/resistor connection to pin 5, which feeds ~0.7v to pin 5. Looks like pin 5 is not a ground, but a feedback line to boost the output if there is voltage drop due to heavy current. This resistor/diode trick just tricks the PS into thinking it needs to output higher voltage.

snellemin
10.01.2010, 09:15 PM
Good stuff Brian.

Metallover
10.02.2010, 04:40 PM
I decided I would go about building a 24v power supply. There's a guide on hooking up two power supplies in series here (http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1164359).

I got my power supplies from ebay yesterday and wired em up today. Now I have a 24v 1150w power supply that I paid $26 for. :smile:

The final unit is 13x7" and the output measures 25.2v. If I put the leads of my multimeter on each power supply, I get 12v between the two. I haven't touched it yet, and I don't know if it will shock me if I touch it.

I cut some pegboard to mount the power supplies on.
http://i345.photobucket.com/albums/p382/metallover1/IMG_0269.jpg

Testing - The power supply on the right is wrapped in clear packaging tape.
http://i345.photobucket.com/albums/p382/metallover1/IMG_0272.jpg

I mounted the power supplies to the pegboard with some bolts, M3 I believe. I then used some unshrunk heat shrink (1" wide) and duct tape to try to insulate the screws.
http://i345.photobucket.com/albums/p382/metallover1/IMG_0274.jpg

And my awesome duct tape job.
http://i345.photobucket.com/albums/p382/metallover1/IMG_0275.jpg

25.2v output under no load.
http://i345.photobucket.com/albums/p382/metallover1/IMG_0277.jpg

snellemin
10.02.2010, 04:52 PM
That is some serious power supply you got there mang. I'm now thinking to do the same, but with both 12V and 24V capability. Good Job!

Metallover
10.02.2010, 05:10 PM
Thanks! When hooking the power supplies up in parallel is it the same procedure as when hooking them up in series? Just change the output leads?

And I just realized you save about $200 in making one of these power supplies!

BrianG
10.02.2010, 09:04 PM
Little update on boosting the output for those interested. I ended up using a couple of resistors to make the voltage divider instead of a diode; a 210 ohm and 20 ohm. This gets me ~13.2v. I was able to get to 13.6v, but the supply sometimes wouldn't turn on or stay on. 13.5v worked fine, but I brought it down to 13.2v just for a little extra wiggle room.


First, the stock power daughter board. There is a blue and purple wire which I cut. One is a 5v line, the other is a -12v line.
http://scriptasylum.com/forumpics/ps47_a.jpg


Then, I cut away where the 5v and -12v lines were to make room to run the wires for the voltage booster resistors. I soldered pins 6 and 10 directly to ground to turn the PS on. Even when these aren't connected, the PS is on somewhat so I figured I'd just hardwire them and use the mains plug as a power switch. I then soldered wires to a ground point, +12v point, and to pin 5 (v adjust pin).
http://scriptasylum.com/forumpics/ps47_b.jpg


On the other side of the daughter board, I attached those three wires to the resistors and hotglued the resistor pack to the PCB. I did have to remove the bolt lug from the case so the resistors would fit.
http://scriptasylum.com/forumpics/ps47_c.jpg


Here is a simple schematic to show how to arrange the resistors. The power ratings of the resistors, especially the 210 ohm one, should be 2w or more.
http://scriptasylum.com/forumpics/ps47_d.jpg


As you can see, I soldered the binding posts directly to the blade plugs. The soldering job is good, it just looks crappy because as I soldered one side, it would drip down. Since the pins themselves weren't being used, I ground them all down.

Here is another pic showing what I know of the pins:
http://scriptasylum.com/forumpics/ps47_e.jpg

snellemin
10.02.2010, 11:01 PM
Wow there Brian. You like to eek out every little bit of power out of that PSU heh?!

BrianG
10.02.2010, 11:53 PM
lol, why not? Gotta make the most out of $25! :smile:

florianz
10.18.2010, 04:34 PM
hi there,

after I converted an other pc p/s last weekend (quite easy), I have now two p/s for my chargers, which is good.

finally I got one of those, but wonder if anyone knows about them, I got one of them for 2,5 euro...
http://s7.directupload.net/images/101018/hhkg4irb.jpg (http://www.directupload.net)
http://s3.directupload.net/images/101018/rzeb5mwh.jpg (http://www.directupload.net)

with a maximum of 75 amps on 12v I will be safe for the next years.

thanks
florian

Nard Cox
10.19.2010, 03:51 AM
Those look badass!!
930W / 75.7A ... watch out LiPo's :D

Have you searched on RC Tech? They have several of these server PSU conversion threads.

florianz
10.19.2010, 04:07 AM
thanks for that hint, I'll have a look :smile:

got them on egay, used, private seller, I hope they will work...

snellemin
10.19.2010, 02:59 PM
This is a good thread. I am glad to see that I'm not the only fool out there looking for some true clean dirt power source for a charger.

BrianG
10.19.2010, 03:32 PM
At some point it gets a bit overkill to have such a large 12v supply unless you have multiple chargers to power at the same time. Many (if not all) chargers over 300w require a supply with higher voltage (like 24v) to be able to use it to its max output. Just a little food for thought.

florianz
10.19.2010, 04:32 PM
that's the story:
I have three (2 weak, 1 strong) charger, and want to be on the safe side, even on the long run. soon I get a second strong charger with about 180watts to charge all six 5s (4000-5000mah) lipos quickly. I store my batteries low-medium charged, so when I decide on a saturday morning to go for some fun, they need to be charged in short time.

It can deliver a maximum of 75a, that doesn't mean that it has to do that all the time. with the allied p/s (500w) I have experienced that when all three chargers run on that one p/s, one charger gets problems. actually the p/s should be sufficient, but obviously it's not, even that it's a brand p/s. the other p/s (brand stuff) I have converted recently is about the same, it says 550w, but actually can handle solely the 150w charger.

overall, the p/s worked great for me. The only problem is, when it says 500w, it's all together, on all lines, but not on the 12v line (maybe 300w?).

like that, I've decided to get a big one, so I never have to worry any more.

BrianG
10.19.2010, 04:47 PM
Yeah, normal PS units power ratings are all rails combined. These server supplies are just 12v, which makes it nice for us.

I know you don't "need" 75A (and it does place less stress on the supply if used under that value), I just wanted to make the point (mainly for others) that just because it is capable of near 1000w doesn't mean that some of the higher output chargers will be able to utilize it unless the voltage is higher.

Big House
10.21.2010, 04:30 PM
I have a few old desk tops in storage that are not going to be used again. How can I convert one of those into a dependable PS for my charger? Thanks.

BrianG
10.21.2010, 04:33 PM
http://www.rc-monster.com/forum/showthread.php?t=3962

Whether those PS units will work or not depends on how much current is available on the 12v line. The power rating is for the 12v, 3.3v, and 5v rails combined, so the 12v rail by itself will be somewhat lower. There should be a label on the case somewhere that states the current for each rail.

florianz
10.29.2010, 04:20 PM
Hi guys,

I finally got the server p/s like pictued above. The question is, how to get power.
With an old servo plug I got at least the fans running, running slowly.

But no power yet. Then I tried to connect some of the pins to the big plugs. And hey, I got some volts:
http://i52.tinypic.com/14j92bq.jpg

The fans are completely on now,and pretty loud too.

Detailed view on the pins
http://i55.tinypic.com/10d72as.jpg
like that, I get the power finally on.

but what is what, here some pics
http://i52.tinypic.com/2ztbu5t.jpg
http://i54.tinypic.com/df9e0h.jpg
http://i56.tinypic.com/2e1857k.jpg

so I think, the top three are minus/ground, the lower three contacts are plus.

I got my degree on the MIT, still I need your help :party:
I think I am on the right track. So I can solder three plus/minus cables? in total?

When I am right, I just got a very powerful p/s for just USD 3,47, not quite expensive for about 1000 watts...:smile:

Of course I will replace that bloody screw.

Thanks a lot for your input!

florian

florianz
11.05.2010, 08:02 PM
Hi there,

got it finished. I have changed the fans, the new ones are very quiet. soldered some wires, cleaned inside, not that much to do.

http://i52.tinypic.com/j61u84.jpg

Sufficient charging power for three chargers. costs: less then 15 usd in total.
florian

Nard Cox
11.06.2010, 06:26 AM
I like it :)

Bazzokajoe
11.07.2010, 04:51 PM
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=250692081706&ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT

reckon that will be any good to convert?

whitrzac
11.07.2010, 11:17 PM
I had a diff. server supply(53amp max) loaded with 45ish amps, took 7 chargers to do it, but it was still putting out a stable 12.22v:surprised:

Gee
11.08.2010, 11:00 PM
Will do Alien, Progress pics. Got them Wired up, and all the startup wiring done so the thing actually arms...
Great guide for the HP #194989 and HP #280127 can be found here:

CLICK ME (http://www.qsl.net/w8zpf/Files/Powersup.pdf)
Have yet to put a load on it, or plug it in yet, need connectors to go to my load of choice (700watt amp and dual 8in subs) :lol:

They are complete
http://i152.photobucket.com/albums/s195/asdf1010/Power%20Supplies/PICT0194.jpg


Thanks Ben for pics with these type of supplies. I got similar ones just have Compaq on them instead of HP. I had just taken some pictures and was going to post them to see if anyone could help. Nice job and thanks for sharing Everyone.

There should a good selection of used power supplies hitting ebay shortly.:lol:

radioman193
11.09.2010, 12:31 PM
Nothen like usen "500Watt" to produce "50Watt"..... LOL

nitrostarter
11.18.2010, 08:20 PM
Got my HP sserver p/s the other day. Just soldered it up. It works great on my sound system in the shop.

snellemin
11.19.2010, 11:36 AM
Pics of the powered sound system?

snellemin
11.19.2010, 09:31 PM
Charging a 4s @32A with the Powerlab + 20 dollar PSU. 8awg wires were at 121F during charging.

http://i189.photobucket.com/albums/z240/snellemin/Powerlab8/DSCF0582.jpg
http://i189.photobucket.com/albums/z240/snellemin/gtp/DSCF0583.jpg

nitrostarter
11.21.2010, 12:40 PM
Pics of the powered sound system?


Nothing special, just a cheap sony radio/speaker combo, 250w amp and a 8" sub.

RC toy
11.22.2010, 02:30 PM
If connecting two power supplies in series is so dangerous, how the hell maxamps did that???:surprised:

RacerMike42
01.05.2011, 12:41 PM
like RC Toy mentioned above I am surprised no one has mentioned this has gotta be the same power supply that Max Amps is selling for $80,
http://www.maxamps.com/Power-Supply-12V.htm

Thanks to the thread starter for posting this, I had been browsing around looking for a new power supply and came across this thread. I picked one up off of ebay for $15 + $12 shipping
Had I not seen this I was about to buy the Max Amps one.

brainanator
01.05.2011, 01:19 PM
there was a thread when the maxamps PS came out pointing out that they were the same thing ;)

RacerMike42
01.06.2011, 03:44 PM
Cool, well I am glad I found out just in time. I got my ebay PS today, cant wait to get it hooked up ;)

DrKnow65
01.08.2011, 07:16 PM
So I've been trolling eBay looking at supplies. Specifically ones that look to have good 12v amperage that I could use in series to get 24v, what I'm drawn to are the X0551 Dell server units (47.5a at 12v). Aside from the complexity of safely connecting them in series do you guys see any reason why these would not work?

Metallover
01.08.2011, 07:30 PM
As long as you have a way to turn it on, it should work great.

SunnyHouTX
01.08.2011, 11:04 PM
I don't know why I took this long to do this but I finally got me a 47A PS off the bay for a few cents under $18 shipped. It's going to replace my 26A ATX PS which still works and I will use for truing tires and such at home and as a backup. I was blown away by how small the server PS compared to the ATX PS and I really like the form factor as it makes it easier to carry it and my other CellPro 4S chargers to the track in one Pelican case on race day. It registered 12.58V with no load after I cranked it up.

Thanks to Snellemin and others who've contributed to this thread. Now I wait for my PL8 to show up so I can start working on my LiPos for the 2011 race season. Looking forward to the first ever 1.1s ET on 3S in 1/10 electric TF drag racing.

http://i256.photobucket.com/albums/hh169/SunnyHouTX/Nexus/IMG_20110108_214510.jpg

kazuaki
02.01.2011, 12:43 AM
So, here's my "Charging Box" that I recently completed. I used the HP 47A server power supply and cranked it up to output 13.4V. While I was tweaking inside the power supply, I rewired the fan to run off the 5V output, so it's much quieter. So far, it still stays plenty cool. I put it into a modified Plano tackle box with a pair of iCharger 206B chargers (capable of charging at 20A each). I added a socket on the outside of the box for a detachable power cord. I had previously modified the power supply with a toggle switch, so that powers the whole thing up. There is a ton of space for all the miscellaneous charge leads and balance adapters. And finally I added an LED volt meter because I thought it looked cool :oops: So far, I'm really liking this setup.

http://www.nuibe.com/rc/chargingbox/charging_box_1.jpg

http://www.nuibe.com/rc/chargingbox/charging_box_2.jpg

http://www.nuibe.com/rc/chargingbox/charging_box_3.jpg

ANGRY-ALIEN
02.01.2011, 01:04 AM
very cool... well done on that installation :yes:... been wanting to do something similar with the pair i have... what voltmeter is that? where can i find them?

Alien

kazuaki
02.01.2011, 03:04 AM
what voltmeter is that? where can i find them?

This is the one that I bought:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=230363049931
There are many out there that would work, but be careful as a lot of them require a 5V power supply.

George16
02.01.2011, 03:37 AM
Very nice.

ANGRY-ALIEN
02.01.2011, 07:38 AM
This is the one that I bought:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=230363049931
There are many out there that would work, but be careful as a lot of them require a 5V power supply.

Oh.. thanks for the link and advice man... I'll do some searching again for suitable boxes that will fit all my charging/electric field gear and work on the install... will post up some photos when I'm done.

Alien

DrKnow65
02.01.2011, 09:29 AM
Kazuaki, I think you've hit on a really good idea there :yes:
Hope you're ok with the shameless copying of your idea, because I'm all over that :mdr: Good job!

snellemin
02.01.2011, 09:40 AM
I like this tackle box idea. I too shall shamelessly copy this.

kazuaki
02.01.2011, 10:12 AM
Kazuaki, I think you've hit on a really good idea there :yes:
Hope you're ok with the shameless copying of your idea, because I'm all over that :mdr: Good job!

Not a problem at all, that's why I shared it. One thing I just realized...it kinda looks like a bomb :gasp: So, be careful going near federal buildings or airports with it...

BrianG
02.01.2011, 10:17 AM
I too like the idea. However, if I might make a suggestion: To minimize power wire flex every time you open the box, how about mounting the chargers to a false bottom right above the PS? That would give you more room to store your adapters and provide a larger lipo tray for charging.

BTW: I see you were able to get a good stable 13.4v. What resistors did you end up using in the feedback circuit?

kazuaki
02.01.2011, 10:53 AM
BTW: I see you were able to get a good stable 13.4v. What resistors did you end up using in the feedback circuit?

I ended up settling on 200ohm on the positive side and 22ohm on the negative side.

lincpimp
02.01.2011, 10:54 AM
I did something similar a while back. Not as nice, but it worked.

http://i206.photobucket.com/albums/bb243/lincpimp/DSCF2565.jpg
http://i206.photobucket.com/albums/bb243/lincpimp/DSCF2563.jpg
http://i206.photobucket.com/albums/bb243/lincpimp/DSCF2562.jpg

kazuaki
02.01.2011, 10:56 AM
To minimize power wire flex every time you open the box, how about mounting the chargers to a false bottom right above the PS?

That would work, but I guess I didn't see the wire flex as much of an issue.

BTW, for those that go looking for a tackle box, most of the ones big enough to hold the server PS will be 3 tray boxes. This one had 3 trays, but I removed the top tray. They disassemble easily.

kazuaki
02.01.2011, 11:05 AM
I did something similar a while back. Not as nice, but it worked.

http://i206.photobucket.com/albums/bb243/lincpimp/DSCF2565.jpg
http://i206.photobucket.com/albums/bb243/lincpimp/DSCF2563.jpg
http://i206.photobucket.com/albums/bb243/lincpimp/DSCF2562.jpg

I like that, nice and heavy duty!!

BrianG
02.05.2011, 08:13 PM
Another little update for this little PS unit.

I got another one of these and was doing my voltage boost mod when I accidentally discovered the ground connection for the sense/feedback circuit is not even needed. After doing some more playing around, a 1.5k ohm resistor between the main 12v terminal and pin 5 is all that is needed to boost the output to 13.2v.

BTW, the max voltage you can get out of this is around 13.5v. At 13.6v, the PS shuts down.

Also, for those that think the fan is a bit loud on 12v: If you run this PS at 25A or more for extended periods (>1/2 hour), the air coming out the back is pretty toasty. I figure even if this unit is 90% efficient, 35A @ 13.2v is 528w which will produce 53w of heat. That's quite a bit, so if you do turn down the fan, I wouldn't go too far.

Metallover
02.05.2011, 08:23 PM
Brian you're the man! Thanks for posting!! :smile:

mamba max1
02.05.2011, 11:48 PM
Here's mine, but with a 42A PS. When I charge 2 lipos (3s 5800) at 2C (11.6A each for a total of 23.2A from the PS) it barely even gets warm. :intello:

http://i188.photobucket.com/albums/z254/ABbuggin/Charge%20Box/IMG_2180.jpg

http://i188.photobucket.com/albums/z254/ABbuggin/Charge%20Box/IMG_2181.jpg

http://i188.photobucket.com/albums/z254/ABbuggin/Charge%20Box/IMG_2182.jpg

http://i188.photobucket.com/albums/z254/ABbuggin/Charge%20Box/IMG_2184.jpg

http://i188.photobucket.com/albums/z254/ABbuggin/Charge%20Box/IMG_2185.jpg

http://i188.photobucket.com/albums/z254/ABbuggin/Charge%20Box/IMG_2186.jpg

http://i188.photobucket.com/albums/z254/ABbuggin/Charge%20Box/IMG_2187.jpg


Yes, the lid is burnt. After I went through the extreme hassle of making a false bottom that fit (major PITA) the charger did not fit. I was not about to toss all my work in the trash so I softened the lid up with a lighter and expanded the it a bit. Made it fit. :intello: I use the velcro from hobbycity to hold everything in place. Plus a side to barely fitting is it doesn't rattle around inside at all, even when upside down. The velcro is crazy, its a bear to pull the charger and PS out of the box. :lol:

I have the charger plugging into the false bottom so that I can unplug it from there and into some alligator clamps for charging from a car. :) BTW, the box is amazing. Makes charging easy, and portable while keeping it protected.

aggie4231
03.05.2011, 11:27 AM
ok for a semi-noob. With the original ps, which main line do you use for the charger(outsides or insides)? Can you use it to power 2 chargers off of different sets of lines?

fordman86
03.08.2011, 06:22 PM
Ok BrianG I took off the hot swap connector like this http://sites.google.com/site/tjinguytech/my-projects/HP47A
wondering whow would I put the 1.5k ohm in to boost volts and what watt of resistor did you use? I have 12.45 now.

BrianG
03.08.2011, 07:45 PM
Ok BrianG I took off the hot swap connector like this http://sites.google.com/site/tjinguytech/my-projects/HP47A
wondering whow would I put the 1.5k ohm in to boost volts and what watt of resistor did you use? I have 12.45 now.

Honestly, if you are getting 12.45v now, there really is no reason to mess with it. ~13.2v is not a whole lot more voltage for the work required. But if you still want to:

The pic below is the first PS I modded before I realized I didn't need as many wires, but all you need to do is attach the 1.5k ohm resistor to the red and white wires (the ground isn't needed). Resistor wattage can be your typical 1/4w.

http://scriptasylum.com/forumpics/ps47_b.jpg

In this pic, you can also see the jumper wires I added to turn the supply on without having to mess with the little pins.

Be aware that I cut the standalone purple and blue wires (-12v and 5v aren't used) and cut away the PCB where they attached to give me room for those white and red wires in the pic above.

fordman86
03.08.2011, 08:18 PM
Ok will leave be but I modded even further and took that whole board out per the link I posted before. It's at the bottom of the page.

Divey1130
03.14.2011, 08:44 PM
Just finished mine and wanted to share it. What an awesome power supply that has tons of power. This thread is what got me started and I thank everyone here for your knowledge and support.

Terry
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KB_MghvoqHE

BrianG
03.15.2011, 12:04 AM
I just posted why you are getting 17v on your YT vid, but for some odd reason, it appears to be posted from peterscalab??

Divey1130
03.15.2011, 12:39 AM
I just posted why you are getting 17v on your YT vid, but for some odd reason, it appears to be posted from peterscalab??

I saw that. That's weird. Thanks for clarifying that up for me. I understand now.

fordman86
03.18.2011, 05:43 PM
Here's mine all done

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v621/fordman86/IMAG0039.jpg

snellemin
03.18.2011, 05:47 PM
That blue right thur is gansta. Looking good man.

silentbob343
03.19.2011, 03:44 AM
Just finished mine and wanted to share it. What an awesome power supply that has tons of power. This thread is what got me started and I thank everyone here for your knowledge and support.

Terry
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KB_MghvoqHE

Hot swap and IIRC the 208B requires 18v to support 350w.

I see Brian already answered the 17v question.

mistercrash
03.19.2011, 03:02 PM
I haven't read all the posts in the thread so sorry if this has been discussed. I have read in here that if you go with two server PS to have a 24V power supply, the two can't be touching because you have to remove the AC ground on one of the units. I hope I understood correctly. This guy here says that he removed the DC ground on one of the units instead retaining the AC ground on both units so the boxes can touch with no problems.

http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w202/mistercrash1964/whatever/tjintech-howto-24V_47A-12.jpg?t=1300561628

http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w202/mistercrash1964/whatever/tjintech-howto-24V_47A-14.jpg?t=1300561660

Maybe someone with more knowledge than me can confirm that this way of doing it is safe.

silentbob343
03.19.2011, 03:04 PM
I haven't read all the posts in the thread so sorry if this has been discussed. I have read in here that if you go with two server PS to have a 24V power supply, the two can't be touching because you have to remove the AC ground on one of the units. I hope I understood correctly. This guy here says that he removed the DC ground on one of the units instead retaining the AC ground on both units so the boxes can touch with no problems.

http://990224014867868413-a-1802744773732722657-s-sites.googlegroups.com/site/tjinguytech/my-projects/diy-24v-47a/tjintech-howto-24V_47A-12.jpg?attachauth=ANoY7crf_xT5CGhpxwoe6uw3cugJa73G CIE9dovajsl9iPH1ZFvfGwKd4r6bT0zF-O1Fm_lP8iXJI2R2haofauDkCEtrE373JTTxIY1S6VJu9kKENUP 2iUIoQJo8mlznqlBC5MIvRX4h8Z-Fju0w1Re8IttcmXbyNQjaOrZx3GUpeXjLQqVdI5dtutF6AWAs6 8TaRRxce1zac7Do1cgIjeeoB3oY2zvpXToC5pggcMK49EnZ4r4 QZqq2yQysvEWZWhDf5tgMcRUb&attredirects=0

Maybe someone with more knowledge than me can confirm that this way of doing it is safe.
http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1369612&page=2
Plenty of guys have purchased his kit and I haven't heard of any issues.

Overdriven
03.19.2011, 10:53 PM
[QUOTE=mistercrash;401698]I haven't read all the posts in the thread so sorry if this has been discussed. I have read in here that if you go with two server PS to have a 24V power supply, the two can't be touching because you have to remove the AC ground on one of the units. I hope I understood correctly. This guy here says that he removed the DC ground on one of the units instead retaining the AC ground on both units so the boxes can touch with no problems.
QUOTE]

I just finished reading the entire thread from the link posted above. The only thing that's a little scary is on page 4. But the scenario described is also easily prevented. I'll quote the important bit here and save you some thread searching.

"The power supplies have 4 terminals, two for each power supply. You can use a jumper between the two middle terminals to put the power supplies in series and use the outer two for 24v (47amps) or you can jumper both the red and blacks to each other and put the power supplies in parallel mode where you have 12v (94amps).

You can also wire for series and run one charger on the outside posts, then plug another charger into each power supply to get 12v.

The only thing you need to watch for is that plugging a charger into each power supply while in series mode makes one charger's chassis ground for one power supply but also DC+ for the other which means that setting it on top of the charger can cause a short.

Because of this It is recommended that you only use the grounded power supply for 12 while in series mode.

Now that I'm thinking about it, I should probably make a diagram to mail out with the kits." See link in previous post on page 4 for diagram.

mistercrash
03.20.2011, 09:35 AM
http://sites.google.com/site/tjinguytech/my-projects/diy-24v-47a

This is where I found the info I posted, I don't think it has anything to do with that guy on RC Groups. Unless it's the same guy.

Metallover
03.20.2011, 05:38 PM
Just cleaned up my unit

http://i345.photobucket.com/albums/p382/metallover1/IMG_0551.jpg

http://i345.photobucket.com/albums/p382/metallover1/IMG_0552.jpg

silentbob343
03.20.2011, 09:23 PM
Almost finished with mine,

Was also wondering if I should use rubber grommets on my aluminum angle to reduce the possibility of a short should the post shift and contact the aluminum.

Here is a picture to demonstrate what I am referring to. Once the back half is on and the nuts are snugged over the post it seems secure, but I would hate for the posts to touch the edges of those holes if I were drop the PS or have some other jarring force act on it.

http://home.comcast.net/~silentbob343/posts.jpg

silentbob343
03.20.2011, 11:26 PM
Figured out the pinout on the hot swap board. 10 pin IDC connector just like on your USB motherboard headers.

http://home.comcast.net/~silentbob343/pins.jpg

Time to scavenge a spare USB plug.

Couldn't find any USB motherboard headers so I used a dead ESC lead and two of those tiny motherboard speakers to get enough wires with the contacts already crimped/soldered on. Also managed to desolder the connector from the swap board, but will need some CA or epoxy to keep the pins from falling out of the connector. Both bottles of CA were dried solid, so it looks like I'll have to finish tomorrow.

snellemin
07.05.2011, 11:13 PM
I was lazy and bought me a kit from this dude on rcgroups. It's a pretty good kit, if you don't have much time to custom make your own 12v-24v PSU. You basically just lift the ground off one of the legs on the second psu. Cut some wires and connect everything.

http://i189.photobucket.com/albums/z240/snellemin/psu/DSC06248.jpg
http://i189.photobucket.com/albums/z240/snellemin/psu/DSC06247.jpg
http://i189.photobucket.com/albums/z240/snellemin/psu/DSC06245.jpg

JThiessen
08.07.2011, 11:26 PM
Just got mine hooked up and running tonight. I wanted something encased for taking on trips in the RV, and to keep debris out of the fans. After turning my garage inside out trying all the different cases I had, I noticed one in the downstairs "theater room to be" that I had walked past a hundred times in the last two months. Its just a basic Stanley plastic case, but it did not have any dividers or divider channels inside it. I didn't really want to used plywood, but it was handy, I had really gotten tired of overthinking this thing.
I put a base of 7/16" ACX down and screwed it in place to firm up the whole case. I then used 3/4" veneered plywood for the dividers (the center one has a 1.25" wide tee on the end of it to keep the supplies from sliding - although I doubt then will ever come loose. Next, I just cut a top piece out of 3/4". I used bar clamps to hold the entire thing together for putting the screws in - and predrilled the holes to keep them from splitting. But.. when running some screws in from the outside (to keep the "box" secured), I didn't use a big enough bit, and split one piece of wood (you can see it where the two cable clamps are screwed in for the input power cords).

I also used a STSP switch to to be able to turn it off and on. It fit nicely under one of the lid latches (however, it only turns red when off - its supposed to also show green when its on. Dont know what I did with the wiring on it....
Also drilled a bunch of holes for ventillation, and drilled two larger holes on the output side so that I dont have to open the lid to plug my charger in.
Turned out ok - if anything, I'd like to go back and make the plates out of nylon instead of plywood - but no reason to spend that money on it.

http://i244.photobucket.com/albums/gg33/jjt4806/0807111855-00.jpg

http://i244.photobucket.com/albums/gg33/jjt4806/0807111855-01.jpg

http://i244.photobucket.com/albums/gg33/jjt4806/0807111856-00.jpg

http://i244.photobucket.com/albums/gg33/jjt4806/0807111856-01.jpg

http://i244.photobucket.com/albums/gg33/jjt4806/0807111856-02.jpg

http://i244.photobucket.com/albums/gg33/jjt4806/0807111856-03.jpg

http://i244.photobucket.com/albums/gg33/jjt4806/0807111857-00.jpg

Ola
12.14.2011, 05:01 PM
Just put together a PSU based on this thread! HP 47A psu`s in serie, making 24V 47A..

Not alot of work, and works great so far with a 206B 20A charger, while i`m waiting for my Powerlab PL8 in the mail..
Ill post pictures of the portable "charging case" im building when the PL8 gets here..

But the noise...

Anyone that has solved this without rebuilding the psu completely? Does it need all the airflow to stay cool?

snellemin
12.14.2011, 07:27 PM
Well, I'm pulling close to 47A @ 24V with the Powerlab 8. You just have to live with the noise when pulling all that power.

Ola
12.15.2011, 03:27 AM
Well, I'm pulling close to 47A @ 24V with the Powerlab 8. You just have to live with the noise when pulling all that power.

I was afraid so..

But i did find how to slow the fan down though.. Short pin 4 to ground, is supposed to slow the fan down to the minimum setting..

I`ll try it today.
I might get away with it if i adjust the output voltage some. Seems like it can handle up to 13.8V, but i`m not sure if the PL8 and my iCharger handles 26-28V though.... I`m emailing them about it now..

Ola
12.15.2011, 03:36 AM
Hehe, just by looking at ad`s, it seems like the 206b can take 28v input, and the PL8 up to 32v.. So i think i can get away with bumping the PSU output up to 27.6v :)

snellemin
12.15.2011, 10:10 AM
27.6V......sweet.


This is what I was pulling this morning charging my ebike batteries.

http://i189.photobucket.com/albums/z240/snellemin/Powerlab8/DSC01752.jpg

BrianG
12.15.2011, 10:18 AM
FYI: These supplies generate quite a bit of heat when driven near its max for a while. Despite the high efficiency of these supplies (~85%), outputting ~550w generates close to 100w. So, that fan is needed when they are driven hard.

If you are enclosing them in some kind of charger station case, you could probably use a larger fan (which doesn't need to spin as fast for the same CFM) as long as the air is directed through the power supply. Then you could do that fan speed reduction mod. IIRC, you can't simply remove the fan because the supply needs to see some rpm or it won't function.

Ola
12.15.2011, 11:22 AM
I do agree.. But i`m wont be pulling full amps for that long time with every charge..
I also have max 5s batteries, so the charger will charge at 850w maximum.. Thats approx 970w at 0.85, so theres still a good margin up to the 1150w maximum on the PSU`s.. And thats at stock 24v... Wouldnt it be producing less heat at 27v, being more efficent?

I`ll do some testing and measure temps to see how it works out..
I think i will be installing a switch for the fans as well.. for minimum + maximum settings, in case i want more cooling :)

At 20A charging, the air coming out of the psu`s are cold as the outside air hehe..

Ola
12.15.2011, 11:25 AM
27.6V......sweet.


This is what I was pulling this morning charging my ebike batteries.



Thats so cool! :D Couple years ago, i would laugh at you if you said that you`re going to charge batteries with 1150w power :lol:


Btw, i love youre e-bike project..!

snellemin
12.15.2011, 11:41 AM
It's just crazy at what power level we can charge batteries now. Would be nice if I had 230Vac in my garage, so I could use all three Powerlab8 at the same time. Oh well, maybe one day.

My ebike is nice to commute with. Very low key. Most people thing that the ESC is a audio amplifier. Currently running 16s2p lipo(32mph max). Just too cold at times to go 40mph.

RC toy
12.15.2011, 11:52 AM
How big is the power supply? (one PS LxHxW )

bruce750i
12.15.2011, 01:33 PM
The fan may need to be a high pressure fan at any cfm. The cases are very constricted. A 2-sp switch would be nice like mentioned above.

Ola
12.15.2011, 04:37 PM
It's just crazy at what power level we can charge batteries now. Would be nice if I had 230Vac in my garage, so I could use all three Powerlab8 at the same time. Oh well, maybe one day.

My ebike is nice to commute with. Very low key. Most people thing that the ESC is a audio amplifier. Currently running 16s2p lipo(32mph max). Just too cold at times to go 40mph.

I got 3x32A 230v to my garage heheh.. And we have several 10-16A circuits 230v at our hangar at the airstrip, so were all good :na:

I modifies the PSU`s this evening :yes: I didnt have resistors to make absolute max output voltage, but i did make 27v still.. I reckon it drops some at load though, but alot better than the 24.3 i had.

i also soldered a 13Kohm resistor on the fan control circuit to slow down the fan`s.. I tried to shorten those pins, but that made the fans run WAY to slow.. I think i found a good mid level, and its very easy to put a switch into the circuit to make full fan speed if its necessary.. Test`s at 40A will show :intello:

The aluminium suitcase i`m using for charge-box, is vented in both ends of the PSU`s now, and all thats left to do with it, is making a 230v input socket for the PSU`s on the outside of the box.. Pic`s will come when i get my PL8 :yipi:

phildogg
12.15.2011, 05:07 PM
How big is the power supply? (one PS LxHxW )

12x3x2.75

Ola
12.23.2011, 05:34 PM
Pic`s will come when i get my PL8 :yipi:


Well, here`s my take on a portable charge case :)

http://www.br-motor.no/bilde/diverse/rc/Fly/ladekoffert.jpg

ANGRY-ALIEN
12.23.2011, 11:38 PM
Nice :yes:... that looks pretty good...

josh9mille
02.10.2012, 12:08 PM
Im planning on doing the dual power supply, but I have a question: In my garage (where i plan to use the power supply) the neutral and ground is bound together in the pannel box. So is removing the ground prong on one of the power supply cords going to even do anything?

BrianG
02.10.2012, 12:22 PM
Neutral and ground are electrically the same point in any US panel box for 120v mains, so that's nothing new. However, if you don't float the ground wire in the PS units, you get problems because you are paralleling the input, but series connecting the output.

josh9mille
02.10.2012, 12:31 PM
Cool, thanks Brian

mistercrash
03.03.2012, 08:07 AM
I made a 12V/24V power supply from two HP PSs. I installed an ON/OFF switch on the little wires I used to connect the three little pins of each PS and it worked fine. Then I decided that instead of having two power cords (one for each PS), I wanted the two to merge as one so I did that. I made sure to have one PS grounded and the other ungrounded. So now the switch doesn't work. Is there a way of wiring the switch so it can turn the power supplies on or off when the two power cords are merged together.

Thanks

Oh yes, the pics. Some in here like pics. I went for the compact look.

http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w202/mistercrash1964/Motorino/24v_ps1.jpg

http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w202/mistercrash1964/Motorino/24v_ps2.jpg

mistercrash
03.03.2012, 08:51 AM
Here is how it was wired with the switch. It worked fine shutting off and powering on both PSs. But when I merged the power cords together, the ungrounded PS would always stay on and the grounded PS would always stay off no matter where the switch was.

http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w202/mistercrash1964/Motorino/24V_power_supply1.jpg

bruce750i
03.04.2012, 09:54 AM
Mr.MC 1st I floated the 12 and 120 on one unit. Then I ran a single 120 cord into a 120 light switch (mounted on my charge box) then split out from there to feed a switched 120 to both units.

Edit: After looking at your pic of your nice and compact ps you don't have a place for a 120 switch. Oops my mistake.

Here is a pic of the last one I made.
[IMG]

mistercrash
03.04.2012, 10:48 AM
Thanks for responding, I know I can easily put a switch on the power cord but my PS is self contained and not part of a bigger case. That is why I wanted a way to put a switch on the small wires used to connect the pins together, so the switch can be small and be part of the small box I made for the two PSs. Maybe I'll end up putting the thing in a case, yours looks real good by the way.

bruce750i
03.04.2012, 11:52 AM
Thanks,
That's a good question. I'll stall now for someone else to chime in....

BrianG
03.04.2012, 01:14 PM
IIRC, the switch attached to those small wires simply grounds them to turn it on (similar to how ATX PC supplies work with the green wire). Since you floated the grounds on each supply, I'm surprised it even works at all.

What I would do is use a double-pole single-throw (DPST) switch and have the small wires on each supply hooked to each pole. That will allow you to turn both supplies on at the same time, yet only use one switch and still have them isolated. A DPST switch is basically two SPST switches in one package.

However, a DPST switch may be hard to find, so just use a DPDT switch and just don't use two of the contacts: http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2062499

mistercrash
03.04.2012, 03:29 PM
I'm going to have to try that. Thanks Brian.

_paralyzed_
03.05.2012, 02:02 AM
I haven't been in this thread in a while. I now feel wholly inadequate about the size and performance of my power supply:cry: The cases are cool:yes:

Mistercrash- BG gave you an example of a dpdt switch, but scroll down and read the reviews, that particular one appears to be crap. Hopefully you can source a better one:intello:

edit: 57 pages of them on fee-bay http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=p5197.m570.l1311&_nkw=dpdt+switch&_sacat=See-All-Categories

BrianG
03.05.2012, 09:49 AM
...BG gave you an example of a dpdt switch, but scroll down and read the reviews, that particular one appears to be crap. Hopefully you can source a better one :intello:

Well, I can say that I've personally used that switch on a number of projects and they all still work. Maybe the reviewers don't understand how to use them, or are using them in applications where more current is drawn than the switch can handle? Maybe there was a bad batch? Maybe it's a combination of user stupidity and normal number of DOA units?

In this case, the switch is passing very little current so it should be fine. But at the very least, it was an example of a DPDT switch.

mistercrash
03.05.2012, 11:06 AM
I saw the reviews and I didn't pay much attention to them because I know that BG would not suggest I buy a piece of crap. Harold how could you insinuate such a thing about Brian! Shame on you. :lol: Now go build yourself a proper power supply. :tongue:

BrianG
03.05.2012, 11:47 AM
Now watch and the switch you get breaks proving Harold right. I would have to hang my head in shame. :lol:

If that happens, at least it's not difficult to replace it. :smile: RadioShack carries a number of DPDT switches. It comes down to how much room you have for the switch. Some are quite large, but if you have room for it, using a larger version won't hurt.

And yes, eBay also has a large selection (and probably cheaper too), but even though I don't especially like RS (their stuff is quite pricey), sometimes it's nice to be able to get something right away locally.

_paralyzed_
03.13.2012, 04:58 AM
I was just parroting the reviews, I know BG knows his stuff.:yes:

I got a server power supply on the way!

kamp
05.10.2012, 04:10 PM
Thanks to everyone in this thread I decided to start working on a power supply for myself only I'm going about it a bit differently. I have access to old used up copiers and thought since they are setup to run 24v I would give it a go to see how things worked out.

Here is a picture of the power supply that I am using. The question I have to all of you is there any way to figure out how many amps or what the wattage of this power supply actually is? If it isn't sufficient I'll most likely go the server PS route. Right now I have a nice stable 24.5 volts on this supply and will be mounting it in a custom aluminum box if I can find a way to figure out what amp's or wattage I am getting out of it.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-OH_1D5z-EEg/T6wg5zZb6MI/AAAAAAAAAcE/bkZVHTfur8M/w527-h395-k/05092012201.jpg

Any ideas??

BrianG
05.10.2012, 04:25 PM
Google the PS model number from a sticker or something? The printer itself should have the power requirements printed on it, and then you can make a rough calculation based on that.

kamp
05.10.2012, 04:30 PM
The power requirements are all AC specs, this particular has a requirement of 15amps at 120v. We are a dealer of the copiers it came out of and I have the schematics and part numbers to the power supply but there are no specifications published about it.

I guess what I was hoping is that there might be a way to identify it by the components or if there was a tool that I could use to get those ratings I could go that route.

BrianG
05.10.2012, 04:36 PM
I assume all the red wires are 24v and the blues are ground? If so, then loosely judging by the number (8?) and gauge of the wires, I'd say each wire is good for ~2A, which is around 16A, maybe a bit more.

What you could do is monitor the output with a voltmeter while steadily loading down the supply with resistors or something until it shuts down from over-current. Then a little math to figure out the shut-down current, and then subtract ~10% as the "working" current.

kamp
05.10.2012, 04:55 PM
I assume all the red wires are 24v and the blues are ground? If so, then loosely judging by the number (8?) and gauge of the wires, I'd say each wire is good for ~2A, which is around 16A, maybe a bit more.


There are 11 red 24v wires ranging from 18-22gauge wire. I thought I saw a video that had a charger showing the operating amperage? Maybe that was the amperage that the user set the charger to draw.

Thanks for the idea on the resistors I'm just afraid of "frying" the supply doing that. Is that a possibility?

BrianG
05.10.2012, 05:00 PM
Yeah, some chargers show input voltage/current, but they don't care if the supply is struggling as long as the voltage and current is there. And yes, increasingly loading down a supply until it shuts down can conceivably cause harm, but any decently engineered supply should shut down well before that happens.

kamp
05.10.2012, 05:05 PM
Looking at your loosely judged "estimate" with 11 24v wires I should be able to safely assume 24v at 20amps I'd believe. That should be more then enough power to run this charger: Icharger 306B (http://www.icharger.co.nz/Products/306B.aspx)

Correct?

Robl45
12.25.2012, 10:57 PM
so if i buy this powersupply, it takes a standard desktop power cord is that correct?

And a spare servo connector will jumper the pins, no soldering for that? then i just solder up the servo connector wires correctly or add a switch and solder on my positive and negative and my power supply is ready?

Its not that i don't have the skills, but converting the atx supplies seemed like way too much of a hassle, but this seems really easy to do even with my 3 year old wrapped around my leg while I'm doing it :)

BrianG
12.26.2012, 09:53 AM
Yes, it takes a standard cord you'd find on any PC.

Not sure on the servo connector though. The pins would fit, but a servo connector has three wires in a row and the pin on the power supply that need to be shorted are not all together. In short, you can use the servo connector, just remove each connector from the plastic housing, wrap each in heatshrink, and then slide each one over the pins.

It is an easy conversion if you want to just get it to work. I personally like to solder connections for reliability and have all the circuitry (wires and such) inside the supply to reduce clutter.

Thirdgen89GTA
01.03.2013, 10:25 PM
You can also look at one of these - HP DL580/ML570 G3 Power Supply 1300W Watts Power Supply (http://shop.ebay.com/?_from=R40&_trksid=m570&_nkw=HP+DL580%2FML570+G3+Power+Supply)


Photos below taken from rcgroups (http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1005309):

http://static.rcgroups.com/forums/attachments/6/9/1/2/6/a2356625-145-ConnectionsPhoto.jpg?d=1235262571



http://static.rcgroups.com/forums/attachments/6/9/1/2/6/a2356624-42-Connections.jpg?d=1235262571



Alien

Just bought one of these powersupplies. I was thinking of the 575w one originally posted, but the charger I want is 2x 400w chargers. While I don't own any 6S batteries alone my Jammin truggy uses 2x 3S 5000mah lipos and 2x 2S 5000mah lipos. I also have some adapters that let me charge two 3S lipos as a single 6S, same for 2S as 4S.

So I was figuring at a 3C charge rate that would be about 630w not counting losses so that would be maxing out the 575 and getting into bad territory.

The 1300w is only on 240v but on 120 its rated at 910w I think it was (12v x 75a). Which should still be plenty for the twin 400w model.

Realistically as i won't be using both 2S and 3S sets at the same time I'll be charging the twin 3S separately which is about 500w or so.

Glad I found this thread, was struggling to find a DC PS before I'd put money down on a good DC charger.

brainanator
01.04.2013, 07:39 AM
^ thanks for that. Now the thread title should be how to build a $17 74A power supply. haha.

Thirdgen89GTA
01.04.2013, 10:00 AM
Well. I can't take any credit. And I haven't even received it yet. But the conversion looks ridiculously easy. Might try to do some cooling stuff though to quiet it down, maybe a small LCD temp display.

Could also use the 12v rail to feed a fan and use a Rheostat to control temps Every PC fan I've ever seen was designed to run on 12v so you could find one that fits the cooling needs without sounding like a 747 and just power it off the 12v while sending the yellow wire to the RPM sensor in the PSU.

Thirdgen89GTA
01.09.2013, 04:35 PM
I have received the 1300w power supply.

Will check it tonight. It looks like there is room for two 60mm fans up front. Could probably install them there reduce the noise a bit by using a slower speed.

Might want to note for those looking at the 1300w PSU to convert, it requires a IEC-320-C19 type power cord. Seeing as I work in IT, I have a bazillion of these things laying around for servers so its no big deal. But if you don't, and are thinking of using this PSU you'll need to visit a store and get a C19 power cord. Standard ATX power cords will not work.
http://www.taiwantrade.com.tw/resources/member/1998/productcatalog/dcc9087d-952a-429c-9e0f-621fb622bfd0_TC19.jpg

Thirdgen89GTA
01.09.2013, 06:39 PM
I have received the 1300w power supply.

Will check it tonight. It looks like there is room for two 60mm fans up front. Could probably install them there reduce the noise a bit by using a slower speed.

Might want to note for those looking at the 1300w PSU to convert, it requires a IEC-320-C19 type power cord. Seeing as I work in IT, I have a bazillion of these things laying around for servers so its no big deal. But if you don't, and are thinking of using this PSU you'll need to visit a store and get a C19 power cord. Standard ATX power cords will not work.
http://www.taiwantrade.com.tw/resources/member/1998/productcatalog/dcc9087d-952a-429c-9e0f-621fb622bfd0_TC19.jpg

Works just fine!

Now, if I only had a good charger to really place a load on it. But I'm going to bet it'll work fine. :yipi:

http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8190/8366227194_d853792152.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/85540264@N02/8366227194/)
HP_DL580 G5 - 1300w PSU (http://www.flickr.com/photos/85540264@N02/8366227194/) by thirdgen89gta (http://www.flickr.com/people/85540264@N02/), on Flickr

I thought it was loud when I started it up, but when I tripped the 3 wires together it got REALLY loud.

Must look into building a "case" for it and using larger, lower speed but higher volume fans.

Thirdgen89GTA
01.09.2013, 10:25 PM
Its a noisy little beastie.

Xcb84X5lCeg

brainanator
01.09.2013, 11:23 PM
good info on the power plug, figured it was standard computer style. Thanks for that.

That vid is crazy, it is SO loud. Normally I don't mind fan noise, but that's more like a leaf blower.
Let us know if you get any pots in there to slow them down or something.

Another area of concern, many of the high wattage chargers require 24V for full output. So while this PSU will put out all the current they could handle, the charger is limited on 12V. Just something to consider if someone is looking to utilize all the power of a powerful charger.

Thirdgen89GTA
01.10.2013, 12:53 AM
good info on the power plug, figured it was standard computer style. Thanks for that.

That vid is crazy, it is SO loud. Normally I don't mind fan noise, but that's more like a leaf blower.
Let us know if you get any pots in there to slow them down or something.

Another area of concern, many of the high wattage chargers require 24V for full output. So while this PSU will put out all the current they could handle, the charger is limited on 12V. Just something to consider if someone is looking to utilize all the power of a powerful charger.

I measured it with my SPL Meter (yes, I have one for setting up the home theater, I'm that anal).

65db with the PSU in the off position, and 73db in the On position. Its a mix of frequencies but the loudest with it off is 1khz, and on it shows 2 spikes in the 3-5khz range.

its pretty darn loud, gonna have to do something about that. I'm thinking of replacing the two fans with a quiet high flow model 60mm fan in the 3000-4000 range. Or simply modifying the top of the case to mount a 120mm fan and running that off the boards connector. Though I'm not sure what RPM the fans are required to run at.

The fans inside are 60x38mm 8800rpm fans. If I looked up the right model fan they flow 50cfm each.


Thinking of buying 4 of these fans: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835426033

Two will replace the internal fans. They are much quieter than the original fans. I also plan to install two of the fans in the front as a "pusher" fan that I can manually turn on. which should bring the total airflow back near what it was with the twin 60x38s. If they are quiet enough I might just leave them on completely.

Looking for a relatively thin LCD temp display I can put in there and either feed it off 12v or 3.3v, the PSU only puts out those two voltages. Would be nice to keep an eye on the temps as I am messing with its original fans.


Edit: Scratch that! It think I might buy two of these fans plus 2 very quiet stealth fans. These things have a built in internal PWM thermal switch! If thats the case then I might not even have to worry about fan speed as they'll just be quiet when its cool and ramp up as needed on their own.

Though the PSU is capable of controlling the fan speeds, so I don't know how that would interact with the fans on control method. Hmmm, need more information.

snellemin
01.10.2013, 05:17 PM
That PSU is cool. Nice to have a different option.
But I rather use 24V @ 47A for my chargers. Keeps the power wires cooler and charger happy.

brainanator
01.10.2013, 10:54 PM
does the PSU need that much cooling? You probably aren't taxing it very much at all. Maybe if you want to future proof it for expansion.
Also, depending on how smart the PSU is, it might monitor fan speed and no operate if it senses a failed fan.
http://dx.com/p/mini-1-5-lcd-digital-thermometer-with-detecting-probe-black-2-x-lr44-126092
That's a little temp display I got from there one time. Only displays in C.
Mines been going for 3 years on the same batteries. Not super thin or high tech, but it's cheap.

Thirdgen89GTA
01.11.2013, 10:15 AM
That PSU is cool. Nice to have a different option.
But I rather use 24V @ 47A for my chargers. Keeps the power wires cooler and charger happy.

I don't have a charger that supports the 24v input, and I'm honestly not going to be going to >6S for a while, so this works fine. I also didn't want to go through the fun of running two PSUs in series with the the possible risks as I'll be carting this power supply to the track and such. There are kids there would would probably find a way to shock themselves pretty good.

Most of the time I'll either be charging two 3S packs at once, or two 2S packs, both 5000mah. So I won't really be using everything the charger can do.

does the PSU need that much cooling? You probably aren't taxing it very much at all. Maybe if you want to future proof it for expansion.
Also, depending on how smart the PSU is, it might monitor fan speed and no operate if it senses a failed fan.
http://dx.com/p/mini-1-5-lcd-digital-thermometer-with-detecting-probe-black-2-x-lr44-126092
That's a little temp display I got from there one time. Only displays in C.
Mines been going for 3 years on the same batteries. Not super thin or high tech, but it's cheap.

Thats why I'm thinking about replacing the stock twin fans with 4 of these: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835426033.

The original fans are something like a this Sunon 60x38mm 8000rpm fan. Its rated at 56dB while the other fans I posted are 23db and are significantly quieter.

It was nice to charge both the 4S and 6S batteries at once and have them charged in about 30 minutes. I say "about" 30 minutes because apparently my 3S LiPos are getting rather old. I ran them down yesterday with the truggy so they'd be near dead, but they recovered to 3.8v which tells me the batteries are just about junk now. They have to be balance charged every time.

Oh well, I've known its been time to purchase new batteries for a while now. The 4S battery is in perfect harmony with each cell, I don't think any of them were more than .01v off from the others.

the 6S battery on the other hand had most of the cells at 4.15v, but one was at 4.02, and the other was at 4.2. So its pretty much junk and only good for the 10TT now due to the 10TT's much less demanding powertrain.

Thirdgen89GTA
01.15.2013, 09:51 PM
Well, the fans arrived today. And without a pulse generator of some sort to feed the twin yellow fan speed inputs a signal the PSU likes, it automatically shuts down after 10 seconds. I tried feeding it the signal wires from two of the 3200rpm fans, but they obviously aren't fast enough to keep the PSU happy. I knew it was a possibility.

:(

Thats almost $30 wasted. Now I need to figure out how to make a pulse generator that runs off 12v and outputs a signal the PSU likes.

BrianG
01.15.2013, 10:54 PM
An astable oscillator using a 555 timer IC and a few resistors and caps. A little experimentation may be needed to find the right frequency to satisfy the supply.

or, use just one fan and route the rpm signal so that it also goes to the other fan slot.

Thirdgen89GTA
01.15.2013, 10:59 PM
An astable oscillator using a 555 timer IC and a few resistors and caps. A little experimentation may be needed to find the right frequency to satisfy the supply.

or, use just one fan and route the rpm signal so that it also goes to the other fan slot.

The fans I bought had tach outputs, its just too slow for the PSU to be happy. If the fan work like I think the tach output works then its 2 signals per revolution. If thats the case then the PSU is probably looking for a 16khz signal or something close to that. (fans are 8800rpm)

But since I don't have oscilloscope I have no way of measuring the fans output. They look like normal 3 wire 12v DC fans for PCs though. I will have to look at a 555 circuit.

At this point I may just modify an old tape carrying case. I did a quick test, its so quiet when the lids closed. But I need to drill holes and use fans for circulation. Might work for this weekend, but I don't want to make the box a permanent solution. Will have to look at building a 555 circuit.

BrianG
01.16.2013, 09:40 AM
If you have a multimeter that has a frequency display, you could use that to get an idea of the frequency; sometimes frequency measurement is a mode of AC voltage measurement. This won't tell you the duty cycle though, for that it will just take some experimentation. It would be much faster to borrow a oscope if at all possible.

I'd start by trying to nail down the frequency by starting with fan rpm - 66Hz for a 4000rpm fan. 4000 rpm (rev/min) is 66.67 rev/sec (Hz=rpm/60), and then double it if that doesn't work, and so on. Once you get the frequency, start with a low duty cycle (very narrow pulse) and work your way up to 50% duty cycle.

The 555 timer will allow adjustments in both frequency and DC% (duty cycle). However, there are a few things to consider. IIRC, a 555 timer will have limits on DC%, if it won't get as narrow (or wide) as you need, you may need to use a transistor configured as an emitter-follower which will basically "invert" the output. Also, adjusting the resistances tends to adjust both freq and DC% at the same time, so sometimes it is easier to use two 555's in series, the first one as the astable oscillator to generate the right frequency, the second as a monostable oscillator to adjust the DC%. More complex but much easier to control freq and DC% independently. The 556 timer is just two 555 timers in one IC case, so that might be a better way.

I know you want to replace both fans, but how loud is just one fan by itself? Because like I said, you could tap into the tach signal of one fan and feed it to the other input and then use whatever fan you want as the second one if you need it.

If you still want to go with building your own oscillator, here are a couple datasheets for the 555 and 556 timers. Each has an applications section at the end with circuit examples: 555 Timer (http://www.datasheetcatalog.org/datasheet/nationalsemiconductor/DS007851.PDF), 556 Timer (http://www.datasheetcatalog.org/datasheet/nationalsemiconductor/DS007852.PDF).

Thirdgen89GTA
01.16.2013, 09:05 PM
If you have a multimeter that has a frequency display, you could use that to get an idea of the frequency; sometimes frequency measurement is a mode of AC voltage measurement. This won't tell you the duty cycle though, for that it will just take some experimentation. It would be much faster to borrow a oscope if at all possible.

I'd start by trying to nail down the frequency by starting with fan rpm - 66Hz for a 4000rpm fan. 4000 rpm (rev/min) is 66.67 rev/sec (Hz=rpm/60), and then double it if that doesn't work, and so on. Once you get the frequency, start with a low duty cycle (very narrow pulse) and work your way up to 50% duty cycle.

The 555 timer will allow adjustments in both frequency and DC% (duty cycle). However, there are a few things to consider. IIRC, a 555 timer will have limits on DC%, if it won't get as narrow (or wide) as you need, you may need to use a transistor configured as an emitter-follower which will basically "invert" the output. Also, adjusting the resistances tends to adjust both freq and DC% at the same time, so sometimes it is easier to use two 555's in series, the first one as the astable oscillator to generate the right frequency, the second as a monostable oscillator to adjust the DC%. More complex but much easier to control freq and DC% independently. The 556 timer is just two 555 timers in one IC case, so that might be a better way.

I know you want to replace both fans, but how loud is just one fan by itself? Because like I said, you could tap into the tach signal of one fan and feed it to the other input and then use whatever fan you want as the second one if you need it.

If you still want to go with building your own oscillator, here are a couple datasheets for the 555 and 556 timers. Each has an applications section at the end with circuit examples: 555 Timer (http://www.datasheetcatalog.org/datasheet/nationalsemiconductor/DS007851.PDF), 556 Timer (http://www.datasheetcatalog.org/datasheet/nationalsemiconductor/DS007852.PDF).

I will have to look at that, possibly also using a thermister to control fan speeds. Read up a bit on that last night. Never really got into building circuit boards, but I can follow a diagram and do the math. So I'll eventually do that. Kinda tapped out for money currently.

In the mean time? I present a PSU.....in a box. This box was meant for the safe transport of LTO3 tapes in a very sensitive fashion. Which means the plastic is quite thick, and the open cell foam padding makes an adequate sound insulator.

I drilled a few holes in one side for the cables. Though I will visit radio shack tomorrow an pickup some insulated terminals for banana plugs and mount those to the box so I don't have to feed the charger leads through the air hole I made. I used a 92mmn 44cfm 41db PC fan for exhaust. I may add another 92mm fan to the front of the case of the same type if this proves insufficient. Using the left over padding I created and air dam to force air through the PSU.

So far its been running for about 1hr now and the air coming out of the fan vent is luke warm.

Before the box the PSU was about 74db, with the PSU in the box and lid closed its averaging 48db. Not a bad change for free.

http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8190/8387509911_fcea7fa002_c.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/85540264@N02/8387509911/)
psubox (http://www.flickr.com/photos/85540264@N02/8387509911/) by thirdgen89gta (http://www.flickr.com/people/85540264@N02/), on Flickr

d3lap
04.03.2013, 03:35 PM
Looks like im going to be converting one of these guys soon. Got a 200w charger coming from HK and im going to need it to charge my new 6s packs aswell. I got an old PSU in my spare computer parts that im going to tear into and configure.

snellemin
04.03.2013, 06:10 PM
I've been running my PSU's like mad and they just keep on going. What a bargain heh!

Metallover
06.23.2013, 06:11 PM
WOOT! I'm not sure if this has been posted yet. A way to quiet the fan & adjust voltage!

I was working on my HP 575w 12v supplies and came across this page - https://sites.google.com/site/tjinguytech/my-projects/HP47A

Apr. 30th, 2013 - Been a long time since I have edited this page and thought it was time to add a few things. When I posted this project little was known about these PSUs. When we started using them we simply tried pins until they worked. Now we know the pin-out and there are many more interesting things you can do with these guys. For starters, we found that shorting pins 6-9-10 together powered them on. Unfortunately pin 9 can be used for adjusting the voltage. Shorting 6-8-10 also turns them on and leaves 9 open for use. Putting a 1K ohm pot between 3-9 allows for output voltage adjustment up to 13.8V. Shorting pins 4-8 will lower the fan speed but the PSU can still raise the speed when needed.

I just connected 4 to 8 (using 6-8-10 to power up)(so I connect 4, 6, 8, and 10 all together) and lone behold the fan didn't ramp up yet I still got power! :yipi: I haven't loaded it up yet to see if the fan turns on when needed. I'll report back if I can

And just extra reading- this guy's page on putting them in series - https://sites.google.com/site/tjinguytech/my-projects/diy-24v-47a

_paralyzed_
08.18.2013, 07:05 AM
I've got a stupid question. I'm finally getting around to building one of the 47a power supplies like on the first post on the first page.

Do I need to wait until I plug in the power supply to 120vac before I connect the 3 wires, or can I just hard wire the 3 wires to the pins and just plug and unplug the power supply from the wall?

jhautz
08.18.2013, 08:56 AM
I've got a stupid question. I'm finally getting around to building one of the 47a power supplies like on the first post on the first page.

Do I need to wait until I plug in the power supply to 120vac before I connect the 3 wires, or can I just hard wire the 3 wires to the pins and just plug and unplug the power supply from the wall?


Just hard wire them..

_paralyzed_
08.19.2013, 03:14 PM
Just hard wire them..

Thanks man.

lilpanther
09.18.2013, 11:59 AM
WOOT! I'm not sure if this has been posted yet. A way to quiet the fan & adjust voltage!

I was working on my HP 575w 12v supplies and came across this page - https://sites.google.com/site/tjinguytech/my-projects/HP47A



I just connected 4 to 8 (using 6-8-10 to power up)(so I connect 4, 6, 8, and 10 all together) and lone behold the fan didn't ramp up yet I still got power! :yipi: I haven't loaded it up yet to see if the fan turns on when needed. I'll report back if I can

And just extra reading- this guy's page on putting them in series - https://sites.google.com/site/tjinguytech/my-projects/diy-24v-47a
Thank's for posting that. It is much more pleasent charging my batteries without my power supply sounding like its about to take off.