PDA

View Full Version : My New Build


redshift
07.30.2010, 08:58 PM
Maxx Mutation, meet your replacement.

This one was started the end of 2009, and was originally going to be a twin inline outrunner chassis. I ended up deciding against that for numerous reasons. Simplicity was still a design priority however, so that meant it would not have a transmission. But being a pure basher, and not a racer, a center diff was not that appealing to me. I briefly considered a belt drive, specifically SDP-SI's new Conidrive series, but the available ratios would not have been easy to design around (driven pulley diameter and belt length). My next choice was Mod 1 gears, and the LST2's 63T spur fit the bill. Enough diameter to the keep the stress radius to a minimum. And keep it plastic hopefully, knowing I could switch to steel if needed. So my next move was drawing up the motor mount, which is a stressed member in this case. It is made of 1/2" aluminum, and I knew I wanted a centerdrive with an 8mm shaft. Having 1/2" to play with I went ahead and used two 8x16 bearings, where one would have been more than adequate.

redshift
07.30.2010, 09:04 PM
Next was the centershaft, no question this would be stainless, and I cut this out of a 5 or 6 pound chunk of 2.5" 304. If you were wondering, ten hours were spent on this part alone. I had made 8mm drive cups out of air-hardening for use with the outrunner (Mike was out of them at the time) so those are now being used on the centershaft.

Lots of photos to come... keep watching :wink:

redshift
07.31.2010, 03:25 PM
The motor mount was done knowing what I wanted to do for a chassis, obviously. :) And at that point I had a CC 1520 in mind. The idea of that motor hanging on two 3mm screws didn't sit well with me, so all four holes would be used. That's why the screw slots in the motor mount are so long.

I found where the pinion (RCM of course!) would sit on the shaft and made a ball divit with a diamond ball burr. I consider this a must to not have issues with the pinion. A tiny amount of red Loctite on the pinion setcrew, and it's trouble-free.

redshift
07.31.2010, 03:32 PM
On to the chassis...

Square tube is the simplest and strongest backbone, and after finding my dimensions I welded some chunks of aluminum onto the tubes. Four on each end, that would have gaps subsequently milled out, then end-drilled. The welds were then rough-cleaned-up using both inner and outer radius mills, and the setscrew pin retainers drilled and tapped. Next up was the joiner plate holes, the joiner plates themselves, and the provisions for the motor mount and aft bearing block were then done. As you'll imagine, this was a ton of work... and I still have finish work, mostly on the A-arm pivots.

redshift
07.31.2010, 03:36 PM
More...

redshift
07.31.2010, 03:41 PM
The main tube is 1.75" outside, 1.5" inside, 1/8" wall. Joiner plates are 1/8" thick as well.

redshift
07.31.2010, 03:48 PM
Coming together now :yes:

redshift
07.31.2010, 03:54 PM
I then made 'cartridges' for the diffs, these were milled out of plastic. The square end blocks with the hole for the diff input stays intact and serves as a stop for the two side pieces when installing the diff. I am using 10-32 blind nuts in the side pieces, because the end chassis holes will also be bumper mounts. Those will take far more torque than the 1/8" aluminum tapped out, and are replaceable. Bumpers have yet to be made, too many ideas and I can't settle on one, kinda frustrating!

redshift
07.31.2010, 04:04 PM
Then I had to come up with some half-ass battery holders. These will likely be changed, still a ways to go on finishing this one up. More to come!

Byte
07.31.2010, 04:10 PM
.... :surprised::surprised::surprised:

Bondonutz
07.31.2010, 04:34 PM
Very Impressive work so far Bro, Looking great !

magman
07.31.2010, 05:57 PM
Holy shiz that is nice work. Curious to see what your ride weighs when done

redshift
07.31.2010, 08:23 PM
Thanks guys :)

I took a fair amount of time looking at various manufacturer's suspension parts, and settled on the LST2/Muggy bits. Prices are better than what I was used to seeing with Traxxas parts, by a lot. And I definitely wanted away from the Traxxas knuckle setup, so next up, suspension. I knew I wanted a laydown shock angle to keep the towers short. Experimenting a little, I figured out I didn't need towers at all. Yes, some Maxx parts found new life here. And already having the heavy Trinity springs made this work. I actually changed nothing other than preload spacers, they still have 45wt silicone, and single hole pistons. Only 4 of them vs. 8 on the Maxx. Delrin spacers were made to take up the clearance on the 4mm pin on top, and I made the lower shock mounts to get my ride height, those still need some finish work. The suspension is very Revo-ish feeling now, very compliant without being undersprung. In fact I liken it to Revo suspension without the cantilever linkages. The results here were far better than expected! No towers means I have unlimited options for body layouts, so that's a huge plus.

redshift
07.31.2010, 08:29 PM
Few more...

redshift
07.31.2010, 08:38 PM
And the steering. I bought the Muggy bellcrank setup on linc's advice, but I could not make it work on this chassis without the bellcrank lower pivots ending up over 1/4" below the bottom of the chassis. So then I got experimenting some more (this was actually a long process) and finally landed on a fully independent servo setup. The huge advantage of this is significantly reduced slop, because there are four fewer joints to create play. The downside is the servo horn becomes the sacrificial part. I tried running twin Ofna HD servo savers and that had the tendency to pull the front wheels into excessive toe-in on throttle, and toe-out on braking. So no go, had to be servo-saverless. Muggy owners will know at a certain point the end of the bellcrank contacts the upper A-arm. The Hitec horns I'm using are about 10mm further back from the diff center, which did not change bumpsteer, and no contact!

Wheels are next...

Bondonutz
07.31.2010, 08:38 PM
Interesting shock set up ? Do you think the four little shocks will enough for the complete truck ? It's still gonna be 10-11lbs when complete, I was woundering if a heavier duty front buggy 1/8scale shocks might be better ? IDK.

Yes, very Revo-ish, I really like the looks of the lay out.

Very nice job of fabricating my friend.

You could also swap sides and turn around the rear arms so the rear shocks would be on the other end as well ? Lot you can do with how you put everything together, pretty slick indeed.

EDIT, what size bolts did you use for the pin replacement. I really like that idea even tho I never had probs with loosing E-clips.

redshift
07.31.2010, 08:58 PM
what size bolts did you use for the pin replacement. I really like that idea even tho I never had probs with loosing E-clips.

Those are the ST Racing set, 4mm shoulder bolts. They're kinda pricey but I ponied up the cash for them because I have a longstanding hatred of e clips:lol:

I actually had the rear shocks on the rear side, but decided they'd be much better protected on the front.

As for the Bigbores, they have worked extremely well in the 15 or so test runs I've done so far. I did intend to get a set of Ofna shocks, but these are working so well I've stopped thinking about changing them. The preload spacers are not on them in the pics because the boots need replacing and they need to come apart again. The rear squats the slightest bit on throttle stabs, which makes it less wheelie-prone. But the 1520 on 6S will throw it up
with it's 14.4" wheelbase still. It's geared for roughly 38 mph and it gets there in about 10 feet, way impressive. The motor and MMM are barely cracking 100 or 105 the whole run. I haven't weighed it yet magman, but with the 1520 weight is really not an issue:party:

Fast5sRevo88
08.01.2010, 12:23 PM
:surprised::surprised::surprised::oops:pissed myself:whip::surprised::surprised:

The Cow
08.01.2010, 12:41 PM
WOW.. This makes me all mushy inside!! :surprised:

Nice job!

Heath

magman
08.01.2010, 04:09 PM
You are right w/the 1520 you should not have any probs...I have my 1520 in my truggy

redshift
08.02.2010, 07:44 PM
This makes me all mushy inside!!

Not sure if that's good?

I got a chance to run it in the woods yesterday, and I have some video from it but not of it, buddy's OBV cam didn't save the file...

The 1520 is the perfect motor for this, I have nothing but praise. The power is just awesome. I have it geared conservatively, because it's running on two 3S 30C 2200s. I'm getting over 12 minutes, and I don't intend to get bigger packs, I have 3 sets and they charge in 15 minutes :) The efficiency compared to my old 9XL is... well it doesn't compare. Worth every penny without any doubt. So as it is, I could gear it to the moon with higher capacity packs. The Losi plastic spur is showing no sign of stress or wear with about 18 runs now, the last 6 or so runs very hard on throttle and brakes. I have to be extremely careful as the MMM is somewhat vulnerable. I need a lid, quick like. Very happy so far, just wish I had the lost video from yesterday, I'll be getting more. I'll try to get some RTR pics this week, wheels and everything in the daylight.

Byte
08.03.2010, 05:35 PM
Not sure if that's good?

I got a chance to run it in the woods yesterday, and I have some video from it but not of it, buddy's OBV cam didn't save the file...

The 1520 is the perfect motor for this, I have nothing but praise. The power is just awesome. I have it geared conservatively, because it's running on two 3S 30C 2200s. I'm getting over 12 minutes, and I don't intend to get bigger packs, I have 3 sets and they charge in 15 minutes :) The efficiency compared to my old 9XL is... well it doesn't compare. Worth every penny without any doubt. So as it is, I could gear it to the moon with higher capacity packs. The Losi plastic spur is showing no sign of stress or wear with about 18 runs now, the last 6 or so runs very hard on throttle and brakes. I have to be extremely careful as the MMM is somewhat vulnerable. I need a lid, quick like. Very happy so far, just wish I had the lost video from yesterday, I'll be getting more. I'll try to get some RTR pics this week, wheels and everything in the daylight.


Niceeeeee :)

Bondonutz
08.03.2010, 08:07 PM
Video and RTR pics !
Tired of waiting !

I bet your happy with that 1520 on 6s, with the power and efficentcy.
It's a seriously potent combo ! ! ! !

I was able to score the shoulder bolts I needed to replace the pins here in town. Not sure of the grade but it's all stainless steel. I got the 8 bolts, flat washers and nylock nuts w/tax for $8.05 out the door.

redshift
08.03.2010, 09:19 PM
That's a way better deal. The ST bolts are like twice that and are steel. They are rusting from the humidity! I will be putting some light oil on them... I got looking at LST/Mug part upgrades while I was making an order, think they were from Amain. Anyway being plain steel I can't really recommend them. Nothing on this truck is supposed to be rusting dammit! Still better than e clips IMO...

A few other items of mention, the truck (thing) as it sits vaguely resembles a pickup truck... that's not the intent and there's about a zero chance it'll be a truck. The idea is to cap off the sides where the spur protrudes, and the spur/pinion area, to make the gears and both center cvds dust-tight. That will leave only the outdrives to deal with after a good sand blast. There will be a plastic bottom piece as soon as I decide whether to make the packs top or bottom loading. The aluminum will be painted and it'll have an anti-flip wing as I did on the old Maxx. Everything else is still up in the air, but I'll try for pics tomorrow.

And yeah, 1520 FTW!!!

redshift
08.05.2010, 10:57 PM
Well admittedly I had some doubt as to the direct servo steering, and my concerns were not baseless. It survived 20+ runs before I snapped a horn, but not before doing some damage to the servo internals...

So a redesign is in progress, gonna be a few days at least. But this will be a permanent fix :yes:

What's_nitro?
08.06.2010, 01:42 AM
http://jessenoller.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/01/holy-shit-awesome-2.jpg

Why aren't you working for DARPA? :lol:

But this will be a permanent fix. :yes:

That's the best kind!

reno911
08.06.2010, 01:58 PM
Nice build, can't wait to see the finished product.

Overdriven
08.07.2010, 01:29 AM
I tried the Ofna savers once they are way too loose. The best I've been able to find is the stock MGT servo saver. They don't have much if any slop. If you don't want to integrate one somewhere else, I'd try them. Very nice work btw, can't wait to see more.

pinkpanda3310
08.07.2010, 06:13 AM
http://jessenoller.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/01/holy-shit-awesome-2.jpg

Why aren't you working for DARPA? :lol:

+1

Some really fresh idea's. Brilliant work Redshift :yes::intello:

redshift
08.07.2010, 02:38 PM
Why aren't you working for DARPA?

They're a bit uptight....

Sorry for the delay guys, working on it atm, but your comments are much appreciated!

OverD, when I did the twin s.s. trials I was still running my old Maximizers with the 3/4" offset. So that made the pull on the knuckles much harder on accel & braking. I researched tire and wheel combos until I reached the conclusion to stick with what I had, only with new faceplates. The Zombie Max tires have over 2 years of use, are already taped, and I'm gonna use them up :)

I just needed to go back to zero offset on the faceplates, so I got my dimensions from the old faceplates. I decided I didn't want to mess with hexes, so they are slotted and I'm using screws instead of locknuts with these. Also I made the outer 4-40 screws countersunk to clean up the look. There's 8 or 9 hours in the wheels, time well spent IMO. I considered making some faux lugbolt holes in the center, I may make some changes to them. I'd like to hear opinions on that...

Comparison shot, and back side.

Bondonutz
08.07.2010, 02:45 PM
They really look nice Jason, I can't see any dicision being the wrong one ?

Finnster
08.08.2010, 12:12 AM
Man, nice stuff. Interesting setup. Wish I had access and skills like that. V cool.

pinkpanda3310
08.09.2010, 07:43 PM
I was watching this again 'cause it's so good and came up with some questions redshift. How do you crank all for screws on the motor mount? 2 screws are behind the spur aren't they?

Are you worried about the threads stripping on the 1/8 aluminium? Or is there locknuts inside? I don't recall you saying what type of ali it is.

You've drilled a hole to access the rear cvd into the yoke but not the front, isn't that a bitch to get in? The front shocks also look like the stop the diff from sliding right out but that's no biggy.

Don't take this the wrong way, I love your build.:smile:

redshift
08.09.2010, 09:46 PM
Thanks panda. I am scrambling to get the new steering parts designed and made, season is wasting!

The motor screws are indeed just accessible, I have a 16T pinion, any smaller and the spur would have to be removed.

I went out of my way to make most of the structural holes at least 1/2" deep. All the screws holding the joiner plates to the rear section are going through the tube wall into the motor mount and aft bearing block. So there is a minimum of 1/2" of thread there. The four holes for the front section are only tapped into the wall, for now. The plan was to use the same method with blind nuts and plastic locators, if I need. So far no issues there. As for material, this is a scrapbin build, so can't verify. None of it is soft however. There is zero flex anywhere in the chassis itself, it is for all intents and purposes, one piece.

The access hole on under the rear yoke was made before I realized I could get the centershaft and bearing block in place as an assembled unit. It'll be covered eventually, but it'll be useful for inspection or oiling.

Getting the front CVD in is as simple as slipping in the front chassis section between the plates. It needs to be held vertical at a little angle, but there's enough of a gap to see the end of it, so piece of cake!

The front shocks do impede removing the diff only slightly, same as on a stock Muggy or LST. The shocks can't be put on the rear side because the tierod is there. I don't anticipate needing to get the front diff out very often anyway. Chances are it'll be the rear that needs servicing more, and the shocks aren't in the way on the rear :)

Does require thinking 3 or 4 steps ahead to not "paint yourself into a corner" mechanically speaking, and on that account I think I've done pretty well so far. No CAD here, and no CNC. This is modern RC done oldschool.

Back to work for me.... ;)

pinkpanda3310
08.10.2010, 08:45 AM
Does require thinking 3 or 4 steps ahead to not "paint yourself into a corner" mechanically speaking, and on that account I think I've done pretty well so far. No CAD here, and no CNC. This is modern RC done oldschool.

That is oldschool! Custom parts do need a lot of forethought, I think that's 90% of the allure and 90% of the headache :lol:

simplechamp
08.10.2010, 09:01 PM
No CAD here, and no CNC. This is modern RC done oldschool.

Wow, I was already super impressed, but the fact that you do all the parts through manual milling and machining makes it even more amazing.

redshift
08.10.2010, 09:37 PM
Well thanks champ :)

Everyone's good at something...

By far the hardest part of this project was making the blueprints. When I say blueprints I mean looseleaf paper, and index cards for the smaller items :mdr: But yes, lots of cranking on the mill too... And I have about 6 more hours on the lathe between last night and tonight, making progress. Many people don't appreciate the time and work that goes into the smallest most trivial-seeming parts, so it's nice when someone does.

If it advances the hobby in some small way, all the better :yes:

redshift
08.17.2010, 08:19 PM
The direct servo thing was a neat little experiment, but alas, it was not to be. So I was not going to screw around this time...

Once I had some dimensions I made some bellcranks and lower bellcrank brackets. I couldn't decide on a bellcrank shaft setup I was happy with, so I decided to not use shafts. 4mm stainless cap screws were turned down to 6mm and shortened, and there are .020"/.5mm fiber washers to keep the bearings riding on the center race.

redshift
08.17.2010, 08:25 PM
I ended up with sort of a Muggy & LST hybrid steering. As with the direct servo setup, the lower bellcrank arm is about .4", or 10mm shorter than the Muggy bellcrank. The radius is .9". I forgot to do a comparo shot with the Muggy bells.

Goal #1 was making the draglink external (not passing through the tube) so that wouldn't hinder being able to seal up the tunnels and gears.

The upper bracket is .090 stainless. Bearings are now 6x12 vs. the Muggy's 6x10.

The Ofna servo savers proved inadequate without a draglink, but they will be more than enough now that they are linked.

JERRY2KONE
08.17.2010, 08:44 PM
WOW Redshift I have seen your posts on here allot, but never really gotten to see the kind of work you do. This is an impressive project for sure. I love the direction you have chosen here and your work is quite good considering that you are using old school machining skills to get-er-done. Very nice work and clean look. It is nice to see someone go off the grid of using big manufacturing and come up with their own parts. That is the way this hobby started a long long time ago. Just guys sitting in their garage or basement coming up with ideas of their own and using stuff they had laying around to make incredible platforms. Cudos on your efforts Jason. I like others am impressed with your work. I look forward to seeing the project in its completed form.

redshift
08.17.2010, 09:15 PM
Thank you Jerry. I'm merely combining some of the best ideas I've seen here on RCM, and throwing in a few of my own. This is certainly an inspired build!

JERRY2KONE
08.17.2010, 09:39 PM
Thank you Jerry. I'm merely combining some of the best ideas I've seen here on RCM, and throwing in a few of my own. This is certainly an inspired build!

Yes inspired is the word. Just seeing your project inspires me to do more on my own projects. Hopefully it will also inspire others to do more of their own work and not rely so much on MFG parts for everything. We have to keep in mind that MFG do things to save money most of the time and not necasarily for the best interest of the structural integrety of the vehicles. Compomises are made for profits and making the bottom line. Everything I build is put together with strength and durability in mind. Once again nice work Jason.

redshift
08.17.2010, 10:02 PM
I like the fact that only a very small handful of factory replacement parts will be needed, that philosophy started with my Maxx. I've been into RC longer than many of our members have been alive, but never had the chance to do modding/scratchbuilding on a serious level until a few years back.

I understand there is limited appeal for stuff like this, and there sure ain't much pretty about it at this point. This one is putting the less-is-more mentality into play a lot.

Looking at it the first thing you'd think is "heavy", but think about what is not there. It got a little more complex with the new steering, but that added very little weight. And not having a transmission to mess with is something I wanted to do several years ago. But that was before the power systems made it truly feasible, and affordable. After 5 years with my Maxx (3 years brushed, and 2 years BL) I needed to exploit some new ideas and use some of the latest goodies. So my projects are few, because when I do build one, I do it like Detroit used to. I say again, best damn hobby in the world!

JERRY2KONE
08.17.2010, 11:26 PM
You are correct about the look. It may not look streamlined or speedy next to a lamborgini, but from a mechanical standpoint I think it looks very cool. Kind of like the old electric Erector sets. Simple, clean, and strong, but your build actually does look appealing. So don't sell yourself short on looks. Like I said I look forward to seeing your finished project.

pinkpanda3310
08.18.2010, 09:01 AM
I understand there is limited appeal for stuff like this, and there sure ain't much pretty about it at this point. This one is putting the less-is-more mentality into play a lot.

I reckon this does appeal to the masses, only an inspired few will be motivated to have a go. Most of what I have seen and read is a build based on a manufactured platform and then it transforms. This has been conjured from a clean slate. The results look fantastic IMO. If it doesn't look pretty enough when your bashin' then that's what bodeis are for :lol:

mistercrash
08.19.2010, 12:48 PM
I have been sneaking around looking at what you're doing and like everyone else, I'm blown away by what you're doing here. :yes: I love the steering bellcranks you made but I have to ask you if it is necessary to join them together with that turnbuckle. Did you incorporate it in your steering system to have the option to run one servo? I suspect you did. But it wouldn't be needed if you ran two servos, unless I'm missing something. :smile: Everything you're doing is so beautiful and clean. After it's done, with all the work and thought you put into it, I would love to see every aluminum part you made anodized. It would look soooo purdy.

redshift
08.19.2010, 10:08 PM
The draglink is necessary. If you'll refer to post #15, my original setup was with the servo savers instead of the standard horns. I was hoping to simplify things by using independent left/right servo savers. But as I mentioned in that same post I was still using my old dished 3/4" offset rims. The added leverage imposed on the knuckles was enough to pull both front wheels inward (extreme toe-in) on throttle, and outward on braking. Given stiffer direct-mount style servo savers it would work, and it may have worked much better with the zero offset rims. I decided to try solid horns before I made the new wheels, so that combo never got tried. Occasionally I do try to reinvent the wheel, and occasionally it works :) but not this time. Some laws of nature you don't mess with...

The draglink was added purely to keep the front wheels parallel, but as an added bonus I do have the option of running one or both servos. It did require some subtrim to get the servos symmetrical, same as I had to do without the draglink. And having two savers linked should firm up response quite a bit. Steering is plenty fast even on 5V, I plan to run a Hyperion BEC on 6V soon. Running 6S I'd prefer to disable the MMM's BEC. I am much happier with the new steering, I haven't run it yet but I have no doubt this will be the ideal setup for the long term. Just have to look into the servo that got damaged, it's a bit notchy now and I hope it only needs a gearset. I know the 5645s ain't much compared to the tierod snappers most of you run, but having 2 makes that pretty much a non issue.

Anodizing probably won't happen, you have to keep in mind the finish isn't that great on the majority of the surfaces, paint hides all ;)

Thanks for the comments 'crash :mdr:

mistercrash
08.20.2010, 10:10 AM
I totally forgot about your first experiment without the drag link. Sorry 'bout that one. It's flawless then :mdr: That steering system looks really tight, no slop at all. The little things you think of in this build is awesome, like turning down the heads of cap head screws so the bellcrank bearings slip on them. I love this kind of stuff.

redshift
08.20.2010, 09:28 PM
Yeah me too, I gots tha disease....

Expect some updates and with new pieces in the next day or so :yes:

redshift
08.24.2010, 09:06 PM
Ok been a few days, here's the beast in all it's non-glory.

I noticed after a few runs the two screws holding the shock lower mounts getting loose. So I made some additional pinch plates, just tapped the mounts vertical. And the little plates double as protection for that area of the A-arm. Also made some ultra-cheesy bumpers and a 'roof' to protect those vital components. On my third run tonight I managed to flip it on pavement and dug up a corner of that pretty good, so very happy that protection was in place! That's why we get pictures first :whistle:

Three runs with the new steering and it's working well. I'm running a single servo, (my second is in for surgery) so it's not up to full potential.

Now on to the shape... um, yeah. It's looking more like an AMC product, that's not good..

Seriously, I have picked better looking crap off the bottom of my shoe.

It's gonna take nothing short of a miracle to come up with a cool body-type thing.

But the performance is there, absolutely thrilled with the handling. COG is quite low even with the motor top-mounted. I was gonna mention in an earlier post, I know it must be weird seeing Muggy arms without fist-sized shocks on them... but I'm not really big into jumping. I'm after a good handling platform with excellent climb-ability. If I wanna get big air I throw a plane up :mdr: The shock setup I compared to a Revo only in the respect that it "paws" over stuff much like a Revo. But this setup doesn't have the Revo's progressiveness, obviously. The preload can still be increased some before I hit spring cramp. So even with some additional body weight I think I'm well covered. I did a one foot drop test with my buddy's 3905 which is slightly tubby with a cage, etc. and mine fared better. Not that I'm even worried about bottoming out with this chassis..

Overall I'm giving myself an 8.8 on handling, as in what I was looking for, and a 3 on looks lol. I'll be working on that.

redshift
08.24.2010, 09:09 PM
More..

redshift
08.24.2010, 09:13 PM
And more

bryan
08.24.2010, 09:27 PM
Very nice build. Jason you have a one of a kind nice build! Keep the inspiration alive my friend!

Arct1k
08.24.2010, 10:11 PM
Crazy one off build - I like it!

thzero
08.24.2010, 10:27 PM
Nicely done! I really dig all the fab work.

redshift
08.24.2010, 11:28 PM
Thanks guys...

A few items not in the photos, I have a piece of foam taped over the Rx with a hole in it to keep the Rx & antenna from going into the gears. And an inch-wide vecro strap to keep the packs in place. They are also held by velcro on the bottom side of the packs to keep them from sliding. The MMM is kept in place by a strip of velcro on the side facing up, and some thin weatherstripping on the side facing down.

Gonna try for video in the next few days :)

JERRY2KONE
08.24.2010, 11:43 PM
Regardless of your own misgivings on this project this thing is a very cool build. Considering how ugly some major manufacturers make their platforms this build looks pretty good. Your work is neat and clean and very cymetrical, which is a plus for me. Looking at the fact that this is a home grown one off self fabricated project it is impressive. If you can do this out of your house or garage, then it sends a message to the big wigs that they need to do a better job considering all of the resources available to them. In fact I believe it makes them look bad.

What's_nitro?
08.25.2010, 12:48 AM
Now, what's so bad looking about that?? :neutral: I personally love the "mechanical" look much more than the "finished" look. The first thing I did when I got my car was take off the dumb plastic engine cover! :lol: As far as a body goes, something like your other project a while back would be cool.

Finnster
08.25.2010, 12:57 AM
Funktastic man, A+

Bazzokajoe
08.25.2010, 05:34 AM
looking sweet!

really cool build... i would give it a much higher score for looks, kinda mad max-esq!

i would put some kind of nylon cage around the servo setup, for a bit of protection...

but other than that... looks awesome!!

video!!!

pinkpanda3310
08.25.2010, 08:11 AM
Regardless of your own misgivings on this project this thing is a very cool build. Considering how ugly some major manufacturers make their platforms this build looks pretty good. Your work is neat and clean and very cymetrical, which is a plus for me. Looking at the fact that this is a home grown one off self fabricated project it is impressive. If you can do this out of your house or garage, then it sends a message to the big wigs that they need to do a better job considering all of the resources available to them. In fact I believe it makes them look bad.

I agree. This says to me 'RCM is the cutting edge' :yipi::yes:

JERRY2KONE
08.25.2010, 09:13 AM
i agree. This says to me 'rcm is the cutting edge' :yipi::yes:

exactly my point.

mistercrash
08.25.2010, 11:34 AM
http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w202/mistercrash1964/whatever/bolt_rhino_awesome1.jpg

It's a thing of beauty. I don't care what you think, the truck is beautiful. Now go one step further :lol:

http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w202/mistercrash1964/whatever/RTR011.jpg

Just kidding redshift. Your project looks perfect as it is. I'm in total admiration. Now post a video please.

redshift
08.25.2010, 12:29 PM
Haha it's been Revo-ised! Nice 'shoppin skillz there MC. If you get real bored why don't you whip me up a body!

BTW the front suspension is a little off center, how did that get through QC? :lol:

mistercrash
08.25.2010, 01:55 PM
BTW the front suspension is a little off center, how did that get through QC? :lol:

I didn't have my glasses on :lol:

After many months of LST-ing my Revo, I thought it would be interesting to Revo-ish a LST :mdr:

crazyjr
08.25.2010, 03:42 PM
Hey redshift, love the truck. I do not have the skills or the tools to do something like that.

One thing i noticed, You and i both like smaller higher voltage battery packs

redshift
08.25.2010, 05:26 PM
If you can do this out of your house or garage, then it sends a message to the big wigs that they need to do a better job considering all of the resources available to them. In fact I believe it makes them look bad.

It was done at my place of employ, apologies if I gave the impression it was a homebuilt... homebrewed, yes, but not done at home. Still that's high praise and I appreciate it!

As for the big RC co's doing this, you and I both know that's not realistic. For example I have 4+ hours in making just the bellcranks. And probably that much time in designing them as well. They better not start making stuff like this! That'll leave me one less hobby...

redshift
08.25.2010, 05:27 PM
I agree. This says to me 'RCM is the cutting edge' :yipi::yes:

I can't disagree with that :wink:

redshift
08.25.2010, 05:29 PM
As far as a body goes, something like your other project a while back would be cool.

Hmmm is there any way I could make it look like the Tesla in your avatar???

Yes it will likely be lexan, but I really suck with a blank canvas, this is my least favorite part....

redshift
08.25.2010, 05:45 PM
Finn thanks for the A+, Bazzoka I will try to incorporate servo protection into whatever I come up with for a shell. At this point I'm wanting to throw a popcorn bowl on it and call it done. Maybe RC Dude's cardboard box is the way to go? Pissed it took so long and now fall is approaching, gonna try to make the best of it...

Video will be coming, but not today, more overcast garbage here :(

Crash, it really wouldn't take much to do a Revo suspension, may happen someday..

Crazy I am still amazed the 1520's efficiency, and it hasn't broken 115 even partially covered. I happened to have 4 GForce 30C 2200 packs for my planes, had intended to run them only for testing. But then I realized carrying more pack weight was pointless, and the 2200s make it easier on the suspension. I do think they'll end up being moved as far forward toward the spur as I can go to equalize bias a bit better. I also have two 25C packs, ran them yesterday and they puffed a little, so they'll only be used in the planes, 30C packs will be used in both the truck and the planes. That right there is priceless, just being able to use the same packs in ALL my RC stuff!

crazyjr
08.26.2010, 02:09 PM
My setup that i like is a RC10 GT conversion with a 5s 2500 25c flightpower pack, lehner 1200xl basic and a quark 80 esc. The setup only pulls 40 amp peaks and could have gotten away with a quark 65 easily, I am looking at a similar setup for my losi 8T truggy for when i convert it. I will be watching your setup

Are you using two 3s or two 6s packs?

never mind, I found answer on page 2, 2 3s packs

redshift
08.27.2010, 06:35 PM
Little teaser vid, I'll be posting a long edit on my Vimeo page in the next few days :)
This link won't last long, but it'll all be in the finished video.

www.mediafire.com/?eyk91mvwe7ig6qg

JERRY2KONE
08.28.2010, 01:53 AM
Nice clean video, and that vehicle seems to have more power then it can handle on 2wd. Very stable platform, and I like how it sits up just a bit giving you great clearance. Very solid looking truck. Now all it needs is a body to match the setup. Thanks for sharing.

redshift
08.28.2010, 09:20 AM
A bit confused at the 2wd comment? lol

I assure you it's 4wd, I guess the front wheels aren't doing much in this clip tho.

mistercrash
08.28.2010, 09:20 AM
I went back and looked to see if you mentioned how long is the wheelbase. I noticed 14.4'', is that right? That's from axle to axle correct? It might be because of the ''thin'' chassis but from the pics and video, the truck looks bigger :smile: Cool video by the way, this truck performs extremely well. Tons of ground clearance with a very low CG. It's a total success. Now we have to bombard you with body choices to dress up your ride.

redshift
08.28.2010, 09:29 AM
Yes 14.4 is correct. I made a comment "wow that's f-ing loose" referring to the surface, and was pretty amazed it was still lifting the front! Still getting used to throttle management on various surfaces, so if it looks like sloppy driving... it is lol.

Thanks MC, I'm more than happy with the results :)

mistercrash
08.28.2010, 10:56 AM
Here's a suggestion for a body. The Proline F650 (http://prolineracing.com/bodies/ford-f-650-e-maxx-e-revo-revo-mgt/). I got two of those last year because they were the longest 1/8 MT bodies I could find. It's almost 20'' long and from the middle of the fenders is 14''.
Here's a pic of the two bodies taken before we started using them. After a year of hard bashing, they need to be replaced. They don't look like that anymore :lol:

http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w202/mistercrash1964/ERevo/Body/th_ford_f650_4.jpg (http://s177.photobucket.com/albums/w202/mistercrash1964/ERevo/Body/?action=view&current=ford_f650_4.jpg)

If the hump of your truck requires a taller body then maybe the HPI Bounty Hunter (http://www.hpiracing.com/products/en/7186/).

http://www.hpiracing.com/graphics/bodies/7186_01m.jpg

JERRY2KONE
08.28.2010, 11:07 AM
A bit confused at the 2wd comment? lol

I assure you it's 4wd, I guess the front wheels aren't doing much in this clip tho.

Thats funny, because watching the video I did not see the front wheels turning once. No front wheel spin at all.

redshift
08.29.2010, 03:20 PM
Both nice looking bodies there 'crash, but I'm looking for something WAY tougher. If you ever read my Maxx thread you know I detest body clips, loathe is probably closer actually lol. After going this far it would almost be cheating (for me anyway) to throw a name-brand shell on it. It wouldn't last 5 minutes and I'd be annoyed about time wasted making body posts...

I haven't posted much in the last few days because I've been out giving it some very thorough torture tests. Happy to report the only issue after 3 days of abuse is a blown lower piston e-clip on the front right shock. What do I say about CLIPS? So the shock is full of silicone but the piston is not doing anything. Easy fix and otherwise I feel like the beast was worth every minute spent :)

Got some good video on the way from like 6 different locations, so I'm working on that at the moment. And even some proof for Jerry that it's 4wd :lol:

mistercrash
08.29.2010, 03:33 PM
I detest body clips, loathe is probably closer actually lol.

I don't know what you planned to secure a body to your wonderful creation, but how about some Nylon wing bolts instead of body clips. They can easily be cut to the length you need.

http://pics.towerhobbies.com/image/d/dubq3480.jpg (http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXE097&P=7)

redshift
08.29.2010, 03:44 PM
I'm almost 100% intent on making the packs bottom loading, and the "body" will be semi-permanently attached with screws. Simple idea, but complicated in execution only because I am not sure what I want it to look like still. It might not end up looking like anything, and I'm ok with that too. As long as it ends up looking better than it does nekkid...

I only got the red X for your link, but I know what you're referring to :wink:

mistercrash
08.29.2010, 03:50 PM
I told you I would bombard you with body choices :lol:

You will need to make your own vaccuform machine and create the Tonka F350 concept truck.

http://files.conceptcarz.com/img/Ford/ford_F350_Tonka-manu-04_011-800.jpg

redshift
08.29.2010, 04:14 PM
I can't decide if I like that or not ^

It's big, that's for sure!

thzero
08.29.2010, 05:48 PM
What about magnets glued to the shell?

I'm almost 100% intent on making the packs bottom loading, and the "body" will be semi-permanently attached with screws. Simple idea, but complicated in execution only because I am not sure what I want it to look like still. It might not end up looking like anything, and I'm ok with that too. As long as it ends up looking better than it does nekkid...

JERRY2KONE
08.29.2010, 06:14 PM
Why not set your vehicle up for velcro to hold your body on. Velcro is a great way to hold just about anything together if it is used in the right form. That would also give you a reason to incorperate some kind of roll bars or a roll cage for your vehicles protection.

Semi Pro
08.29.2010, 06:22 PM
what a great build, i can't belive i have over looked it, redshift you have got some real skills good luck with the body

redshift
08.29.2010, 07:00 PM
Thanks Semi.

Not sure you're following my logic guys. With the batteries accessible from the bottom side there's no need for the body to be quickly removable.

Maybe 'exoskeleton' is a better word for what I want. The chassis itself needs no further bracing, or a cage, I'm only after component protection, and something to give it more shape. I have plenty of 1/8" lexan and can do it in sections, bent or flat.

I appreciate the suggestions nonetheless :)

nitropyro
08.30.2010, 08:53 AM
i cant see video!!! no fair!
Danny

redshift
08.30.2010, 07:46 PM
You can't do a download??

The link is still up, not sure what to tell you....

What's_nitro?
08.30.2010, 08:36 PM
I found it. :yes:

http://edu.itbulo.com/UploadFiles_1485/200601/200613205058268.jpg

nitropyro
08.30.2010, 08:41 PM
i have a macbook pro and when i d/l it it saves as a quicktime but then it says its in the wrong format :(

nitrostarter
08.30.2010, 08:53 PM
What about a Summit body with the exo-cage? It actually does a decent job of protecting the body.

redshift
08.30.2010, 09:05 PM
What's with all you nitros?

I log in and it's nitrostarter, nitropyro and what's_nitro all viewing LMAO

Sorry about the format issue pyro, you'll have to wait til my finished edit is up. You can kill some time watching some of my older vids, they're mildly entertaining... link below.

Mr. Starter, (I'm not typin' the n word again) the Summit body is actually the right wheelbase, but again, nope. You see how low profile it is, (even with the piece of 1" foam taped to the top) and I want to keep it that way. A tall body, even lightweight, will kill the handling. Nice to know I have so many options, but I gotta do it my way. I'll do my best to make the forum proud!

nitrostarter
08.30.2010, 09:19 PM
Understood...

Definitely keep up posted on my new body.

redshift
08.30.2010, 11:48 PM
my new body.

You know, I'm willing to share here.. but that's a bit far :lol: I'm sure that was a typo.. or was it?

Well I didn't page back earlier what's_ , but a Benz?

Wait, lemme wipe my feet before I get in hehe.

That is eerily close to what I had in mind, we are on the same wavelength I reckon!

That's wild, and even wilder that it's a Mercedes! That would be like H-D making a fast motorcycle. Or a good looking one...

....how many members did I just alienate :oh:

Oh and it has been officially named, it is now known as Recon. Hard to title a vid without a name.... so there you have it, and video will be up on my Vimeo page after around 1 AM EST.

Enjoy!

JERRY2KONE
08.31.2010, 12:11 AM
I agree with you on this one Redshift. We can understand how people have hung onto their old site names when things were still so heavily held up with all the nitro vehicles dominating the R/C scene, but that is no longer true. It is obvious to me that Brushless has pretty much shown that it is the wave of the future and is taking over in the R/C community. Plus this site has very much so become the go to site for brushless R/C conversions. Time to update and change with the times.

redshift
08.31.2010, 09:09 AM
<iframe src="http://player.vimeo.com/video/14567654" width="400" height="265" frameborder="0"></iframe><p><a href="http://vimeo.com/14567654">Recon & Maxx 1</a> from <a href="http://vimeo.com/user2236105">neophase</a> on <a href="http://vimeo.com">Vimeo</a>.</p>

redshift
08.31.2010, 06:37 PM
Did the video suck that bad?

{{{{ecccchhhhhhoooo}}}}

Curious to see what your ride weighs when done

Finally got it today, RTR 12.2 pounds!

With both servos it will still be under 12.5, the 1520 is laughing.

magman
08.31.2010, 06:45 PM
Did the video suck that bad?

{{{{ecccchhhhhhoooo}}}}



Finally got it today, RTR 12.2 pounds!

With both servos it will still be under 12.5, the 1520 is laughing.

Nice...the 1520 is really nice in my mbx5t sooooo much tourque

redshift
08.31.2010, 06:52 PM
Nice...the 1520 is really nice in my mbx5t sooooo much tourque

What's yours weigh Brian?

I was guessing around 13 with mine, so I was very surprised to see less. So I'm allowing myself 13 with body piece(s) included, then I'll set about removing bulk to get it back down to 12.5 or less, completed.

magman
08.31.2010, 06:54 PM
not sure actually...i have no scale to weight it on at home. I am guessing around 11 lbs. I could lessen the weight with different tires, cf towers, etc....but with the 1520, why bother.

redshift
08.31.2010, 07:06 PM
I could lessen the weight with different tires, cf towers, etc....but with the 1520, why bother.

Oh yeah, I'm lovin that.

I know this motor is an animal in just about anything up to 16 pounds, but yeah 11 pounds would make it crazy!

My tires are finally untaping themselves, can't complain as I got a year out of the tape job. But road runs at full T are not easy now, it gets squirelly. I need to look into some silicone for the diff cups, I have been using STP oil treatment in the cups. I still won't run anything else for the ring/pinion, but the diffs are unloading more than I'd like, which is 100% the reason the tape is coming loose. With these same tires on my Maxx, which was spooled in the rear, the front diff behaved itself.

Kcaz25
08.31.2010, 10:54 PM
Redshift! I'm very excited about this build! I loved your Maxx.

It doesn't look like you have any kick up. WHY?! Its just a basher so who cares? Is that the reasoning?

nitrostarter
08.31.2010, 11:16 PM
Dude! You've been holding that video out for 2 years? The time stamp does not lie...


Only kidding, but great video!!

Soro
09.01.2010, 07:32 AM
Nice build :yipi:

Keep on going :party:

redshift
09.01.2010, 10:39 PM
Zack a kickup in this case would either be an extension on the front, or reduced clearance to accomodate one. But yeah, just a basher. You have to keep in mind this project has a ways to go. I just had to get some temporary parts in place to give it a real wringing to see what needs to be changed or added, this is just real-time R&D, the fun way.

Cory the video looks notchy on my PC, is it just my hamsterwheel processor? I know the keychain cams have that pause-y problem but the native video seemed much better. And yeah that fowking timestamp...

Thanks for the comps Soro, and welcome to the jungle...

Kcaz25
09.02.2010, 03:10 PM
Okay sounds good! Without it still its one of my favorite builds ever.

Dj_Sparky
09.06.2010, 05:37 PM
Veeeeeeery nice. Love the handling and how it basically absorbed the ground.

Incredible work man!!!!

redshift
09.06.2010, 06:39 PM
A few notes about the suspension...

I am well aware the "bigbores" are none-such, and at least one other mfr. does the same thing with the wording. The fact the pistons fit both the plastic as well as the "bigbores" kinda gives it away...

At any rate, the extreme shallow angle I have results in a higher transit speed vs. a more vertical shock layout. So the (single hole) pistons are seeing very high fluid resistance. But the high damping rate is half the reason, along with the tight springs, that this is working so well. The 45W sili is taking a lot of the compression force OFF of the springs. So as I mentioned in an earlier post, one of the lower piston e-clips gave out. That was after over 30 runs, so I can deal with that. And I have 4 spares ready to go at all times (thank you Maxx) It is plush, and would not be suitable for jumping, not gonna pretend it would be... But if I can keep the weight around where it is now, I think this layout is gonna stay.

Working on a skidplate for underside protection, that's gonna add a bit.

That's all I have for the moment, thanks for the words Sparky.

anthony213
09.19.2010, 10:13 PM
bad@ss truck , wish i had the know how to build something like that ! you should build a few mor to sale ! i gaurantee ud get what u ask 4 them .:surprised:

redshift
09.21.2010, 08:01 PM
Thanks Anthony.

I don't have plans to duplicate, still have yet to "finish" this one!

jappow
09.22.2010, 05:47 PM
I really like you truck and you work. You must have SICK time in on your build.

littleazn248
09.30.2010, 01:16 AM
I don't typically post on here but damn seriously thats really nice machine work

redshift
09.30.2010, 06:53 PM
You must have SICK time in on your build.

My best estimate is 200+ hours between drawing and labor. Little scary when I think about it, but that was spread over a few months. It was around March 2010 when I scrapped the outrunner build and began layout for this one.

redshift
09.30.2010, 07:03 PM
I don't typically post on here but damn seriously thats really nice machine work

Thanks :)

I find it a little funny, the only thing "bling" is the centershaft, and that was only drilled and dished to lighten it as much as possible. Funny because that part will not be visible at all whan it's done the way I'm thinking. I guess the wheels are semi-attractive, but they sorta look like old style phone dials lol.

I'm aware that I'm my own harshest critic, but I am a machinist and do appeciate even ugly precision work :)

I don't have any major updates, but I am looking to get it winterized, so I'll post up when I do have something.

redshift
10.09.2010, 11:31 AM
From last weekend...

<iframe src="http://player.vimeo.com/video/15681432" width="400" height="265" frameborder="0"></iframe><p><a href="http://vimeo.com/15681432">Recon & Maxx 2</a> from <a href="http://vimeo.com/user2236105">neophase</a> on <a href="http://vimeo.com">Vimeo</a>.</p>

Bondonutz
10.09.2010, 11:49 AM
Nice job of editeing like always Jason, good tunes as well. I really like the mutiple camera angles and joining them all together, must be a PITA ?

Looks like your creation is working well !

pinkpanda3310
10.09.2010, 12:21 PM
Are you going to fit a body? Looks good as is because it is unusual but just curious.

redshift
10.09.2010, 12:40 PM
Are you going to fit a body?

What.... foam and duct tape doesn't count?? You guys are impossible to please :mdr:

I got it to a running state and got laaaaaaazy... but yes I will get something figured out eventually.

Jeff the 8 min video was originally over 90 minutes of video from 3 cams, so yeah editing is some work. I've thrown away hundreds of hours of video in the last 2 years or so doing this.

I really can't ask for more out of the new chassis, it is working as well as I could've hoped :yes:

pinkpanda3310
10.09.2010, 07:33 PM
I.........got laaaaaaazy...

I know how that feels.:sleep:

Chadworkz
10.12.2010, 12:28 AM
OMG, this is one of the best builds I have ever seen! Jason...you, my friend, have got some serious skills...and I mean that! I can't close my mouth I am so amazed! Amazing work, man, seriously...I love it!

redshift
10.12.2010, 06:21 PM
Thanks Chad!

I need to kick myself in the ass and get it ready for the snow.....

redshift
10.13.2010, 10:07 PM
I'd like some input on diff fluids, never tuned a diff!

For the rear I want very limited slip, and for the front I think I want just a bit less slip than the rear.

This will be for winter running, snow and the likes.

Suggestions?

Chadworkz
10.13.2010, 10:18 PM
FOr standard 1/8 style diffs, I prefer 7k front, 1k rear, and 10k center (if there is a center). Try that, I think you will like it.

redshift
10.13.2010, 10:36 PM
Ok, well center doesn't apply obviously, but the 7k front and 1k rear seems like the opposite of what I'm after.. and they both sound light-ish?

I was thinking like 7k front and 10k rear- I may be way off here, but I want the rear semi-spooled, the front stays in check if the rear is very limited slip. Not doubting your suggestions Chad, just want to be clear this is specifically for winter running, and I'm only wanting all 4 to work harder as opposed to a handling setup.

Do your recommendations remain?

What's_nitro?
10.13.2010, 10:49 PM
I think you're still thinking too light... If you want a semi-locked rear I'd put in 100K. No, that isn't a typo. :smile: Then maybe 20-40K in front which should still give enough pull in the turns without affecting the steering response. Does that make sense?

I run 100K front and 300K rear (again, not a typo) on my GTP. It never "diffs out" in a corner even if I stay on power, and has no oversteer, like it would if the front was too tight.

Chadworkz
10.13.2010, 10:50 PM
Well, when the rear diff is tighter than the front, it affects handling in many ways, especially on loose terrain and definitely on the road...it makes the rear end want to swap places with the front (spin out). But, this is only a problem at higher speeds, and you have mentioned you like to crawl and climb and will be driving in snow, so you might want to run the samw weight in both diffs. The heavy front and light rear is more for the racer and handling, which is NOT what you want or need.

Chadworkz
10.13.2010, 10:53 PM
What's; 100k in a true 8th scale diff will lock it up tight, which is good if that's what the person wants, but I think triple-digit and high two-digit oils should only be used in the smaller, Traxxas/10th scale gears.

What's_nitro?
10.13.2010, 10:54 PM
What's; 100k in a true 8th scale diff will lock it up tight, which is good if that's what the person wants, but I think triple-digit and high two-digit oils should only be used in the smaller, Traxxas/10th scale gears.

Is a GTP not a true 8th scale? It has a 4 spider diff...

redshift
10.13.2010, 10:55 PM
Well, when the rear diff is tighter than the front, it affects handling in many ways, especially on loose terrain and definitely on the road...it makes the rear end want to swap places with the front (spin out). But, this is only a problem at higher speeds, and you have mentioned you like to crawl and climb and will be driving in snow, so you might want to run the samw weight in both diffs. The heavy front and light rear is more for the racer and handling, which is NOT what you want or need.

They did look like racing #s to me, but great info come spring, thanks.

redshift
10.13.2010, 10:57 PM
What's; 100k in a true 8th scale diff will lock it up tight, which is good if that's what the person wants, but I think triple-digit and high two-digit oils should only be used in the smaller, Traxxas/10th scale gears.

I follow that, the 1/10 will have higher loading, and require more resistance.

Chadworkz
10.13.2010, 10:57 PM
Is a GTP not a true 8th scale? It has a 4 spider diff...
Yes, I am just saying I don't think that is what he needs.

redshift
10.13.2010, 11:01 PM
I think you're still thinking too light... If you want a semi-locked rear I'd put in 100K. No, that isn't a typo. :smile: Then maybe 20-40K in front which should still give enough pull in the turns without affecting the steering response. Does that make sense?

I run 100K front and 300K rear (again, not a typo) on my GTP. It never "diffs out" in a corner even if I stay on power, and has no oversteer, like it would if the front was too tight.

Yes, I wondered about the trip-digit stuff. 500k would be a really stiff paste, correct?

And I do understand too thick in the front will result in very vague steering.

Thing is I was hoping to throw some on a Tower order and from what I see their selection sucks @ss... where to get?

What's_nitro?
10.13.2010, 11:03 PM
Yes, I am just saying I don't think that is what he needs.

Well, with the lighter oils, your inside wheel is always going to spin on ice/snow/muddy ground. There is not enough traction compared to dirt/asphault. Hence the need for heavier-than-normal fluids to limit the diff action. Especially with the larger tires and the power available from the large motor, I think a MT would benefit from the heavier fluids for winter driving.

What's_nitro?
10.13.2010, 11:05 PM
Yeah 500K is VERY thick. The 300K barely wants to flow out of the container, and 100K is similar to cold honey.

Chadworkz
10.13.2010, 11:13 PM
As most who have run spools in the rear know, the heavier the oil in the rear diff, the less steering you have, and the truck will just push in turns, especially on slippery conditions.

redshift
10.13.2010, 11:18 PM
Well, with the lighter oils, your inside wheel is always going to spin on ice/snow/muddy ground. There is not enough traction compared to dirt/asphault. Hence the need for heavier-than-normal fluids to limit the diff action. Especially with the larger tires and the power available from the large motor, I think a MT would benefit from the heavier fluids for winter driving.

You speak as if you have driven in the shete...

Great info all, and I think what I'm going to start with is some 300k in just the rear. The STP oil treatment I am currently using is already equivalent to
1k or more (a guess), so I will see how the front behaves.

I'll try to explain this just to see if it makes sense to anyone else: with the rear spooled, and the front and rear diffs directly connected, ie. no CD, the only way the front diff unloads is if BOTH rears are lit. Since that is more of an issue in the slick, that's really my only reason for maybe needing to thicken up the front as well. But still less than the rear, as discussed.

So where is the best place to get some 300K fellas?

What's_nitro?
10.13.2010, 11:19 PM
You speak as if you have driven in the shete...

I live in New England, of course I have! :lol: A Main has the whole range of oils if you want to try a few.

As most who have run spools in the rear know, the heavier the oil in the rear diff, the less steering you have, and the truck will just push in turns, especially on slippery conditions.

There is a fine line where you get traction between one wheel spinning, and both wheels spinning. The former is due to diff fluid being too light, and the latter is caused by a heavy throttle finger. Heavier fluid gives better traction on slippery surfaces. The rest is throttle control.

Chadworkz
10.13.2010, 11:29 PM
I'm just worried about his steering.

What's_nitro?
10.13.2010, 11:33 PM
I honestly think 100K in the rear is not too heavy for a truck like that. 300K might be, but I guess we'll have to wait and see. :mdr:

redshift
10.13.2010, 11:34 PM
I'm just worried about his steering.

Don't lose any sleep :lol: I'm leaving the front alone for now.

_nitro I only found 125k at AMain, and Losi Parts House carries 300k but are out of stock.

Ballz!

Chadworkz
10.13.2010, 11:36 PM
Well, the rear affects steering, almost more than the front does...

redshift
10.13.2010, 11:39 PM
Well, the rear affects steering, almost more than the front does...

Absolutely, and winter is all about rear-steering!

But as what's (dammit what's your real name?) said, throttle control baby...

I have a much better idea where to start, thanks guys!

What's_nitro?
10.13.2010, 11:43 PM
Hmmm... I swear I bought mine there. It was a while back so I guess they cut down their selection. ImpacktRC seems to carry the whole line of Ofna oils though.

(dammit what's your real name?)

:lol: Well, most people call me Steve... but I would accept Nikola, Thomas, Leonardo, Stephen, or Rube. :smile:

redshift
10.13.2010, 11:50 PM
Well I'm not most people, so I'm gonna call you Dave!

Ok I thought I remembered someone using Steve. So it shall be.

Did you find me some diff fluid yet Dave?

I'm still looking lol.

What's_nitro?
10.13.2010, 11:52 PM
Well I'm not most people, so I'm gonna call you Dave!

Ok I thought I remembered someone using Steve. So it shall be.

Did you find me some diff fluid yet Dave?

I'm still looking lol.

Oh, good. You answered your own question! :lol:

Chadworkz
10.13.2010, 11:54 PM
And then there's always; if one doesn't work, try something else!

redshift
10.13.2010, 11:54 PM
Haha TOUCHE Steve :mdr:

redshift
10.14.2010, 12:14 AM
Well, most people call me Steve... but I would accept Nikola, Thomas, Leonardo, Stephen, or Rube. :smile:

Edit will you... Im still thinking Dave.

I'll check out Impakt!

What's_nitro?
10.14.2010, 12:34 AM
Fine. In light of our demicongruent naming scheme, I will call you Jared. Deal? :lol:

Nard Cox
10.14.2010, 04:50 AM
If you use 1/8 diffs (so no e-revo style diffs) I would look for 30k rear and 50k front. That's what I run on my Savage and MERV and it's good for bashing purposes.

Chadworkz
10.14.2010, 07:13 AM
Finally, someone who agrees with my "heavier in the front, lighter in the rear" diff oil. :)

mistercrash
10.14.2010, 10:15 AM
Finally, someone who agrees with my "heavier in the front, lighter in the rear" diff oil. :)

We old geezers been doin' dat while you were still in diapers sonny.:lol:
So I would say YOU agree with what everyone has been doing before.

redshift
Since your truck is LST based, I will suggest what I was using in my LST XXL and that's 50k in front and 10k in the rear. Nard Cox said 50k front and 30k rear which is also a great suggestion. I did try 100k front and 50k rear and the diffs were way too stiff for good handling in general. Good for crawling but that's it.

What's_nitro?
10.14.2010, 11:38 AM
Finally, someone who agrees with my "heavier in the front, lighter in the rear" diff oil. :)

Blasphemy! :lol: Hey whatever works for you, I guess! :smile:

redshift
10.14.2010, 09:29 PM
Fine. In light of our demicongruent naming scheme, I will call you Jared. Deal? :lol:

Eh.. nah. :lol:

Demicongruent? Your glasses are held together by tape aren't they...

Impakt has nahting! Ofna didn't come up in their search... I keep looking.

redshift
10.14.2010, 09:32 PM
Finally, someone who agrees with my "heavier in the front, lighter in the rear" diff oil. :)

No one is disagreeing, some of you have racing on the brain :rules:
I wonder how often you have to climb snowbanks in a race? In Alabama? :angel:

redshift
10.14.2010, 09:34 PM
Since your truck is LST based, I will suggest what I was using in my LST XXL and that's 50k in front and 10k in the rear. Nard Cox said 50k front and 30k rear which is also a great suggestion. I did try 100k front and 50k rear and the diffs were way too stiff for good handling in general. Good for crawling but that's it.

Some LST specific info is good yes. Ray was the 100/F 50/R specifically for snow running? Or get run in snow at all?

redshift
10.14.2010, 10:19 PM
Nevermind... I'm stupid.

Found the Ofna stuff.

Nard Cox
10.15.2010, 02:57 AM
Finally, someone who agrees with my "heavier in the front, lighter in the rear" diff oil. :)
Haha. Well heavier in the front than in the rear is normal for racing truggies and buggies cars. When I was researching for fluids in my Savage 30/50 was the most used set-up, same with the MERV.

mistercrash
10.15.2010, 11:49 AM
Some LST specific info is good yes. Ray was the 100/F 50/R specifically for snow running? Or get run in snow at all?

My LST never ran in snow, I ran it this spring and summer. To run in very cold weather this winter, I would suggest going with lighter diff fluids, like 30k front and 10k rear.

Chadworkz
10.23.2010, 10:27 AM
We old geezers been doin' dat while you were still in diapers sonny.:lol:
So I would say YOU agree with what everyone has been doing before.
Well...at almost 36 years of age, with my extremely bad back, and all of my small annoying problems that have now become big crippling problems, I honestly feel like a very old, worn out, 90 year old man!

But, yes...I have learned a lot of what I know from listening to and watching all of the older, seasoned veterans, whom I truly respect and always will!
Blasphemy! :lol: Hey whatever works for you, I guess! :smile:
What can I say, I guess it's the racer in me, I love the handling this setup gives...and even though I no longer race, heavier diff oil in the front & lighter diff oil in the rear is still my preferred setup, even in a truck that only sees bashing & jumping!

No one is disagreeing, some of you have racing on the brain :rules:
I wonder how often you have to climb snowbanks in a race? In Alabama? :angel:
Yea, like I said above, my preferred setup comes from my racing days, but it works the best for me and for what I do with my vehicles (bash & jump)!

Haha...believe it or not, we actually do get a tiny bit of snow every now and then, just not on a regular basis. But, when we do get real snow, we get real snow...blizzard type stuff, like the blizzard back in 1993 (three feet plus, average)!

Haha. Well heavier in the front than in the rear is normal for racing truggies and buggies cars. When I was researching for fluids in my Savage 30/50 was the most used set-up, same with the MERV.
Cool...like it is said, "to each their own", and, "whatever works best for you"...not everyone has the exact same vehicle, setup, upgrades, terrain, etc., so we can't expect to all run the exact same diff oil weights!

redshift
10.26.2010, 09:18 AM
A little post-season bash at the park...

<iframe src="http://player.vimeo.com/video/16188071" width="400" height="300" frameborder="0"></iframe><p><a href="http://vimeo.com/16188071">Recon & Maxx 3</a> from <a href="http://vimeo.com/user2236105">neophase</a> on <a href="http://vimeo.com">Vimeo</a>.</p>

What's_nitro?
10.26.2010, 04:53 PM
:surprised: That poor camera!

redshift
10.26.2010, 05:58 PM
Film it like it ain't yours..

That's the trusty crusty Creative Vado taking it like a soldier as always :lol:

rawfuls
11.03.2010, 10:24 AM
Wowie!
That's simply a work of art...

But in the past you said some bolts started rusting..
No clear coat..or anything?

I assume pure steel is definitely going to rust..
I know you used SS in some parts, but not sure if you used them all around or just small places..

redshift
11.03.2010, 08:23 PM
Well it happens mostly in the summer months with the jungle humidity... but the only parts that are prone to rusting are the steering turnbuckles, the drives and the outer suspension pins. The inner pins are stainless, and I will eventually replace the outer pins in SS. And probably some non-steel turnbuckles as well.

Thanks for the comments chap!

rawfuls
11.03.2010, 09:17 PM
I see...

I sent the link to a friend, and asked him how amazingly orgasmic your work is, he just called me crazy..

Did you settle on a body?
I'd love to see a photoshoot with the truck!

redshift
11.03.2010, 11:27 PM
Ha well that's an interesting compliment.... friend must be a non-RCer? It's probably best to just not associate with those types.

Not sure what you mean by photoshoot... do you want to see it in lingerie? You've already seen it in the buff....

Strike a pose.

Yeah I have yet to figure out a body, winter will help me on design hopefully, I'll have a better plan for battery mounts, etc. as keeping packs warm is a priority.

rawfuls
11.03.2010, 11:31 PM
Ha well that's an interesting compliment.... friend must be a non-RCer? It's probably best to just not associate with those types.

Not sure what you mean by photoshoot... do you want to see it in lingerie? You've already seen it in the buff....

Strike a pose.

Yeah I have yet to figure out a body, winter will help me on design hopefully, I'll have a better plan for battery mounts, etc. as keeping packs warm is a priority.

Yeah.. I just had to include that for some reason..
Oh well

Lingerie would be nice, or just a nice truck gleaming in the sun with a BODY.
Or without one..

Are you making your own lexan body, or is that still undecided..

redshift
11.03.2010, 11:46 PM
No Haute Couture (sounds naughtay) for this ride, not sure about lexan either, but it will be different.. no doubt!

redshift
02.03.2011, 05:41 PM
What's up cats?

I pulled apart my MMM and removed the fan, and did 2 coats of liquid tape on that as well as my receiver... and haven't touched it all winter! Rear diff also got the thickest Ofna sili and have yet to try that...

I did get a MGT servo saver- and Overdriven thanks for the tip back when. They are about 3 times stiffer than the Ofnas. I may even try my original idea again with direct servo steering, really does seem like the MGT savers would work well for that layout.

So now I need to tweak the links a little for the slight change in throw/offset, and
go on to phase 2 of development :yes:

redshift
01.17.2012, 10:37 PM
Wow has it been a year?

Long time no post!

I am having trouble finding tires, looks like the 3.2" tires are all but extinct!

Do you guys have recommendations on tires like the old Zombie Max's?

They were the perfect tires for my use... this sucks!

I'll probably end up making a whole new set of beadlocks :/

Any help is appreciated :)

_paralyzed_
01.18.2012, 08:49 AM
Wow has it been a year?

Long time no post!

I am having trouble finding tires, looks like the 3.2" tires are all but extinct!

Do you guys have recommendations on tires like the old Zombie Max's?

They were the perfect tires for my use... this sucks!

I'll probably end up making a whole new set of beadlocks :/

Any help is appreciated :)

Good to see you here:yes:

coolhandcountry
01.18.2012, 09:44 AM
I noticed the tires are changing as well.
I seen a few 3.2 size on a website but have to go back and look to find.
Seems more are going to 3.8 size now.
Great looking build you have done.

Bondonutz
01.18.2012, 10:11 AM
Hey Jason, how you ben old man ?

3.2's are def getting phased out, they are still readily available with diligent hunting. Your going to be hard pressed to find some Zombie Maxxes tho, Losi discontinued them a couple years ago. I have a set myself and love'm, I rarely use them because they're so awesome I'd hate to ruin them.

redshift
01.18.2012, 12:31 PM
Thanks for the welcome back guys :)

Been good Jeff, 2011 was a wild year... good to see you all still bashing.

So what to do... should I go with 3.8 or 420 series? I'm not crazy about most of the choices I've seen. I can get a lot more use out of the Zombies still, but knowing the 3.2s are going byebye is incentive to update, if I can find something close.

Don't make me buy a set of IMEXs please lol.....

Kcaz25
01.18.2012, 12:34 PM
I would get the new(ish) Proline LRP Badlands.

CLICK (http://prolineracing.com/tires/badlands-3.8-traxxas-style-bead-all-terrain-truck-tires/)

They don't roll like the old ones.

Bondonutz
01.18.2012, 12:51 PM
Yeah 2011 was kinda up and down for me, I lost my Dad and my 20yr old cat the day befor Xmas. Other than that no complaints I guess.

The PL 3.8 BL would be agreat choice looking at the terrain in your videos ?

IMO the Imex tires aren't to bad but the foams were complete garbage, they now have closed cell foams but not in all the tires. So you have to make sure if they come with them if you consider them..

nastety92
01.18.2012, 01:10 PM
I would get the new(ish) Proline LRP Badlands.

CLICK (http://prolineracing.com/tires/badlands-3.8-traxxas-style-bead-all-terrain-truck-tires/)

They don't roll like the old ones.

I just bought a set of these recently and have yet to use them. Just make sure if you do buy the ones with the Traxxas bead that you are buying a wheel with a Traxxas hex and your using a Traxxas hex. I had to have my wheels modified to fit a normal 17mm hex.

Good luck,
Nick

redshift
01.18.2012, 08:51 PM
Hey Zack, thanks for the suggestion, those are agressive!

Jeff, sorry to hear!

Yeah the Z's are awesome in every terrain, I run dirt, sand, snow, pavement and woods..

From what I've seen the Imex compounds wear 10-15 times faster than the Losi compound. That's really my only beef with Imex's, at least their 'medium' compound.. most of you guys could probably kill a set in 2-3 days....
I plan to get molded foams no matter what I end up with.

My "thing" doesn't use hexes Nick, and I will make more pin-drive beadlocks if need be :) but someone else will find the info useful. Thanks guys!

Bondonutz
01.18.2012, 09:01 PM
How long is that pin, you break any ?
Not knocking your own creation but the pin doesn't sound as strong as say a 17mm hex ?

What am I missing ?

redshift
01.18.2012, 09:48 PM
The pin setup is semi-pressfit, and they are bust-proof IMO

However, lol..

the "law of stress transfer" states clearly....

You guessed it, the weak link is the bevel drive pins inside the diff... ask me how I know..

redshift
01.18.2012, 10:10 PM
This rig was shelved for most of 2011, I kinda forgot how much work went into this thing.

Looking back over the thread.. yeah I'm not normal am I

LOL love it though :)

Bondonutz
01.18.2012, 10:25 PM
Hey Bro, Normal is Boring !

redshift
01.18.2012, 10:44 PM
Damn straight yo!

lol

redshift
02.04.2012, 09:37 AM
I have some updates in the works for the Recon... slow but moving.

In the meantime here's some of what I've been up to. I went a little nuts with LED strips,
there's around 450 on this old bird :)

Watch in HD!

<iframe src="http://player.vimeo.com/video/36190170?title=0&amp;byline=0&amp;portrait=0" width="400" height="300" frameborder="0" webkitAllowFullScreen mozallowfullscreen allowFullScreen></iframe><p><a href="http://vimeo.com/36190170">TwinStar Night Flight Low & Slow</a> from <a href="http://vimeo.com/user2236105">neophase</a> on <a href="http://vimeo.com">Vimeo</a>.</p>

pinkpanda3310
02.04.2012, 10:35 AM
.. yeah I'm not normal am I

Hey Bro, Normal is Boring !

"Not normal" is great! You don't do things by half measures do you red?:lol::rules:

redshift
02.09.2012, 10:17 PM
You don't do things by half measures do you red?

Hell no!

But only with RC... fook everything else... at'll do!

LOL