Project: BL E-Maxx

[Josh]

Who knows when this project will end as the brushless motor/ ESC will be the Castle Creations Mamba Monster Maxx. So only time will tell. From now intel this I will be buying the parts to get my E-Maxx "Bomb-proof". I'm really looking for some help from you guys here at RC-Monster. This is my fifth year in the RC world and I've dealt with BL's before. So I'm "familiar with the scene"

Well here's what I have so far on my E-Maxx

• MIP CVD's all around including center
• Lunsford Titanium Hingepins
• ACNCM Bulkheads front and rear
• FullForce RC: Bearings, Body mounts, Shock boots, and servo skid plate
• Hitec HS-645MG Steering servo
• MaxAmps IB4200 7-Cell packs (Might switch over to Li-Po)
• 7.5 Buggy Diffs but no Diff cases to install them into

Onto the pictures -

http://i12.photobucket.com/albums/a240/sAvAgE25mAn/maxx3.jpg

http://i12.photobucket.com/albums/a240/sAvAgE25mAn/emaxx15.jpg

http://i12.photobucket.com/albums/a240/sAvAgE25mAn/emaxx16.jpg

My goal here is to give it a racing look but to have it be beating worthy! So a few changed such as the body will be in order.

What I'm looking to buy -

• 17mm hexes
• Ofna Black dish wheels
• Pro-Line Badland MT
• RPM Arms all around
• UE Diff Cases if I don't get FLM bulkheads
• Some Pro-Line body
• Pro-Line Powerstroke shocks
• RPM Axle Carriers
• Some JDCarbon stuff

What I need from you guys is -


• Transmission Upgrades
• Shock Tower suggestions
• Any other information I might have missed


Thank you all so kindly for your time and I hope I can make RC-Monster my new home.

Josh:028:

[Serum]

FLM has got nice shocktowers!

and the singlespeed is a nice add-on with a brushless setup.

[Josh]

FLM has got nice shocktowers!

and the singlespeed is a nice add-on with a brushless setup.

I've been debating off-and-on about getting the GorillaMaxx Single Speed. I've been talking with Shawn and he said the transmission should be just fine. I might add on a RRP slipper for a little extra "security". Will have to see what Santa has got in his bag for the E-Maxx :005:

I have a questions concerning the Hardened steel idler gear (http://www.rc-monster.com/proddetail.php?prod=RCM03idler&cat=47) I've been reading about it and I see you can buy a pair. Should I do that?(buy a pair that is) I haven't really pried open the transmission since I put the FFRC bearings in there.

Josh :028:

[sleebus.jones]

I'm a pretty big fan of RPM, so I'd suggest going with RPM shocktowers. I'm not so sure about getting aluminum body mounts either. Even with my emaxx in stock trim, I manage to flip it on its back a lot, which bungs up the body mount posts quite a bit. I can see how one flip would really mess up an aluminum set. With plastic, I just hit them with the heat gun and straighten them out.

Another thing you may want to look into are the oversized RPM wheel bearing carriers. The full set gets a bit pricy, but they will definitely give you more strength in an area that gets pretty beat to hell.

With the full RPM treatment like that, you should be pretty solid.

Sleebus

[neweuser]

I would also get the hybrids, better than the cases and cheaper. I would alos get the steel idler as well as a single speed conversion. If you are looking for JD Carbon hybrid turnbuckles, I have some! Never been used!!! PM me if you are interested.

[Procharged5.0]

Nice photos, especially with the leaves.

[Josh]

I'm a pretty big fan of RPM, so I'd suggest going with RPM shocktowers. I'm not so sure about getting aluminum body mounts either. Even with my emaxx in stock trim, I manage to flip it on its back a lot, which bungs up the body mount posts quite a bit. I can see how one flip would really mess up an aluminum set. With plastic, I just hit them with the heat gun and straighten them out.

Another thing you may want to look into are the oversized RPM wheel bearing carriers. The full set gets a bit pricy, but they will definitely give you more strength in an area that gets pretty beat to hell.

With the full RPM treatment like that, you should be pretty solid.

Sleebus

I've been planning on getting the axle carriers already so that's on the list. I've recently found out my mistake about the aluminum body posts so they are going off the truck. I'll be trying to order RPM Arms, shocktowers, and the axle carriers shortly.

Nice photos, especially with the leaves.
Thanks. Means a lot! :)

Josh :028:

[Josh]

I have another question. I am going to ditch those huge bumpers in the front and rear. Should I also get some RPM bumpers to add to the RPM list? Or does anyone preffer something else?

Josh :028:

[GorillaMaxx360]

-i might be late but anyway- WELCOME TO THE FORUMS

[squeeforever]

One thing people neglected to mention is that the RPM arms with CVD's is a BIG no-no...The arms will flex and the CVD's will pop out and bend the CVD's. I would go with the RPM Revo carriers and 3.3 sliders...

[GorillaMaxx360]

RPM Bumpers are nice they dont break and if they do you can get a new one for free.

[Josh]

One thing people neglected to mention is that the RPM arms with CVD's is a BIG no-no...The arms will flex and the CVD's will pop out and bend the CVD's. I would go with the RPM Revo carriers and 3.3 sliders...

Are you bassicly saying ditch the MIP CVD's? :019: For plastic ones? I'll do it on one condition. I accept PayPal, when would you like the CVD's :005:

Josh :028:

[jhautz]

Nice Project you have going here. E-Maxxes are so fun....:027: SO many options. Its almost limitless.


One thing people neglected to mention is that the RPM arms with CVD's is a BIG no-no...The arms will flex and the CVD's will pop out and bend the CVD's. I would go with the RPM Revo carriers and 3.3 sliders...

Couldn't agree more on this one Squee. Bent a few before I learned.


I've been debating off-and-on about getting the GorillaMaxx Single Speed. I've been talking with Shawn and he said the transmission should be just fine. I might add on a RRP slipper for a little extra "security". Will have to see what Santa has got in his bag for the E-Maxx :005:

I have a questions concerning the Hardened steel idler gear (http://www.rc-monster.com/proddetail.php?prod=RCM03idler&cat=47) I've been reading about it and I see you can buy a pair. Should I do that?(buy a pair that is) I haven't really pried open the transmission since I put the FFRC bearings in there.

2 things...

Skip the RRP Slipper. Spend the few extra and get the strobe (http://www.rc-monster.com/proddetail.php?prod=Slipper-Kit&cat=40) and the plastic mod1 spur (http://www.rc-monster.com/proddetail.php?prod=ofn30110) Much better.

If you get the single speed conversion then you only need one steel idler. ;) Even if you dont do the single speed conversion, you will likely only be driving in second gear any way so you could just replace the 2nd gear idler.

[Josh]

If the strobe slipper works as well as it looks . I shouldn't be dissapointed :027:

Thanks for the help and keep the tips coming!

When you are talking about the 3.3 sliders, you are talking about these, correct? http://i12.photobucket.com/albums/a240/sAvAgE25mAn/trac9791.jpg (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXMJG8&P=Z)
If that's the one then, luckily, I bought a spare for my old Revo so I only have to buy 3 :005:

Josh :028:

[BrianG]

If you don't want to get the full single-speed conversion for the tranny, I would definitely get the steel idler as mentioned and also the gear coupler (the do-hicky in the lower right corner):

http://gorillamaxx.com/images/g2005-tran-3s.jpg

This will lock it in second gear better than trying to rig the dog gear so it's locked. Also gets rid of the slop from the dog gear.

I don't think Mike has this part listed, but he can get it for you...

[GorillaMaxx360]

If the strobe slipper works as well as it looks . I shouldn't be dissapointed :027:

Thanks for the help and keep the tips coming!

When you are talking about the 3.3 sliders, you are talking about these, correct? http://i12.photobucket.com/albums/a240/sAvAgE25mAn/trac9791.jpg (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXMJG8&P=Z)
If that's the one then, luckily, I bought a spare for my old Revo so I only have to buy 3 :005:

Josh :028:
Thants what there talking about i do agree with squee on this one becasue mip ones bend and the plastic ones are easier on the diffd

[sleebus.jones]

Skip the RRP Slipper. Spend the few extra and get the strobe

Call me crazy, but are there other choices than a 51T spur for it?

Also, any specific reasons why a strobe is a better choice than the RRP?

Sleebus

[Josh]

I don't know which slipper to go with. If sleeb really thinks the RRP slipper works well then I will have to go with RRP. If anyone has some "feedback" on the strobe then I'll consider either one.

I'm going to go install the Revo shaft now.

Josh :028:

[GorillaMaxx360]

I am not sure about the performance on the strobe, but heres are review on performance of the RRP Slipper Click HERE (http://www.beatyourtruck.com/prodreviews-RRPdualdiscslipper.html) for link. Read the review and see what you think

[squeeforever]

Strobe all the way....

Josh, just FYI (not sure if you know). You need Revo knuckles, 3.3 arms, and 3.3 turnbuckles to run the sliders, but its a much better combo...

[Josh]

I did not know that. Is there any other option besides the revo sliders that I can use to run RPM arms?

Wouldn't this also happen if I were to run CVD's on a stock arm? When they snap the CVD's will pop out causing them to bend?

Josh :028:

[sleebus.jones]

Read the review and see what you think

Hm, interesting. I put mine on my emaxx and no wobble at all. Just sanded the hex lightly so the bearing would slip on and I was golden.

Sleeb

[GorillaMaxx360]

weird

[squeeforever]

I did not know that. Is there any other option besides the revo sliders that I can use to run RPM arms?

Wouldn't this also happen if I were to run CVD's on a stock arm? When they snap the CVD's will pop out causing them to bend?

Josh :028:

If the arm breaks, thats one thing...But if it just flexes and the CVD's pops out, the truck is gonna keep going, maybe only for a little before you notice, but its gonna bend from the truck still moving (let me know if this makes sense, I'm kinda tired :025: ). If the arm breaks, the truck aint gonna go no further for the CVD to bang around and bend. Basically, the 3.3 setup can be the cheapest, lightest, as well as strongest and easiest on the drivetrain.

[Josh]

squee, that makes sense and all. Usually, since I come from the BYT forum, I'm going to keep beating the truck after I bust some arms! "It's in my blood." :005:

I'll decide this little CVD problem on a later date.

Josh :028:

[Josh]

I just bought some 3.3 RPM Arms from hobbieguyrc. NO COMPLAINING! Pictures to come when they arrive.

Josh :028:

[neweuser]

I just bought some 3.3 RPM Arms from hobbieguyrc. NO COMPLAINING! Pictures to come when they arrive.

Josh :028:
I didn't know RPM made the 3.3's?

[Procharged5.0]

Neither did I. When did they release them????

[neweuser]

Neither did I. When did they release them????
the dude that orderd them would most likely know! LOL, i never heard of them though.

[GorillaMaxx360]

not to long ago maby a month they released them when they realesed the stampede ones

[neweuser]

not to long ago maby a month they released them when they realesed the stampede ones
got a link?

[GorillaMaxx360]

sure give me a sec

[GorillaMaxx360]

HERE is for the STAMPEDE (http://www.rpmrcproducts.com/core.htm)

[Josh]

First off, GorillaMaxx360 does that require two posts? :005:

Here's the 2.5R/3.3 RPM Arms (http://www.hobbieguyrc.com/shop/cart.php?target=product&product_id=20634&category_id=637) The exact ones that I got for $41.96 with shipping :031: (Actually not bad but I wanted to use that emotion

So will see how they are when they get here.


Josh :028:

[jhautz]

The RPM 3.3 arms have been out at least since August. I converted my emaxx to the 3.3 arms, steering knuckles, and sliders back then and I think they were out for a good month or so before that.
http://www.rc-monster.com/forum/showthread.php?t=3588
Heres the thread. It actually calls the part number list that you need to do the 3.3 slider/arm/steering knuckle conversion somewhere in it. With the RMP arms and the 3.3 sliders I have been running trouble free ever since.

Another cool benefit of the 3.3 arm/steering knuckle/slider conversion is that it gets you another 1" of width vs the 2.5 knuckles.

[Josh]

Do I need 3.3 Knuckles and the sliders to be able to work the 3.3 RPM Arms?

Josh :028:

[jhautz]

The 3.3 arms will work w/ either 3.3 stuff or 2.5 stuff. Only difference between the 3.3 and 2.5 arms is a little cut out for clearance on the wider diameter 3.3 sliders.

To do the 3.3 sliders and 3.3 knuckles need to be done together. You can't one without the other.

[Josh]

Phew that's a relief. All I bought was the RPM 3.3 Arms. So no other reason to crack open the wallet. Thanks for the information ;)

Josh :028:

[GorillaMaxx360]

got a link?
did you find what your looking for

[neweuser]

did you find what your looking for
I haven't searched. I was just curious for the most part because I have not seen the 3.3 RPM arms yet.

[GorillaMaxx360]

ok cool

[Serum]

All the new RPM Maxx arms are 3.3 ready..

[neweuser]

So they are jsut like 2.5's but they are "precut" to fit the 3.3 knuckles and sliders right?

[Serum]

Yes, Correct

[neweuser]

thanks!

[Serum]

gmaxx360;

Can you please empty your PM box..? i've got an answer for your last PM;

Yeah, you might try 15K in front and 10K in the rear to begin with.

[GorillaMaxx360]

k sorry

[Josh]

I was taking off the stock arms to get ready for the RPM ones and I noticed that the rear right CVD is slightly bent! :031:

So I might as well get the 3.3 sliders :rolleyes:


Josh :028:

[Serum]

CVD's? can it be that your pillow balls are turned in a tad too deep? observe them when you push in the shocks.. you'll notice the space between the cup and the bone will get smaller and smaller.

[jhautz]

looks like you could have a new option as well.

http://www.rc-monster.com/forum/showthread.php?t=4988

[GorillaMaxx360]

gmaxx360;

Can you please empty your PM box..? i've got an answer for your last PM;

Yeah, you might try 15K in front and 10K in the rear to begin with.

Ok i got rid of 5 messages so that should free up some room. i cant believe there is a limit.

[Serum]

reason is quite simple; on my mailserver with no limit users have got over 5 Gb of crap..

[Josh]

What's up with all this "off-topic" stuff you guys throw in this thread? I can respect your position as a moderator so I'll let this one go :005:

So do you think the new Traxxas shafts will be strong enough for the RPM Arms/ Monster Maxx combo??

Josh :028:

[Serum]

Believe me.. this one is pretty on-topic, considering my nature.. :p it doesn't say anything about my anteater costume and my socks.. (Don't get me started.. ;) )

No one has them yet, so 0 experience is available. I can't tell you a decent word about them, i'd love to get a set though, to do some testing on my 3.3 e-maxx.

[Josh]

Believe me.. this one is pretty on-topic, considering my nature.. :p it doesn't say anything about my anteater costume and my socks.. (Don't get me started.. ;) )

No one has them yet, so 0 experience is available. I can't tell you a decent word about them, i'd love to get a set though, to do some testing on my 3.3 e-maxx.

Let me know how the work once you get them on your Maxx.

Anteater costume and socks? I don't think I want to hear this! :005:

[Josh]

Alright guys I picked up some money from Christmas and now I'm looking towards a shopping spree for the E-Maxx. This is what I had and mind and be free to make corrections towards it.

• Tekno RC wing mount with whatever wing
• RPM shock towers but not sure what knuckles to get
•*GorillaMaxx G3 battery straps
• I don't know which chassis braces to get so advice needed
•*Probably strobe slipper
•*hardened steel ideler
• Pro-line 23mm hexes with 23mm standard size wheels
• Pro-Line badlands

That about raps it up...

[Sylvester]

Get some shocktowers from DUH engineering. (www.duhengineering.com)

The flm chassis braces are nice. But i would just get the whole chassis for 90$. Id get the dace adaptors over the pro-line. If your bashing the badlands are fine.

[coolhandcountry]

I like the flm aluminum shock towers.
Many adjustment holes, Wing mount, And strong to.

[Sylvester]

Yea forgot about those.. 24 shock mounting positions.. :)

[squeeforever]

Yea. I would go with:

FLM shock towers
Mugen Wing mount
Proline High Downforce wing
Dace 23mm hubs
Proline 0 offset 23mm Velocity rims
Proline Badlands MT tires
Strobe Slipper
RC-M Idler gear
and Sylvester is right, I would choose the FLM chassis. There warranty is awesome. But personally, I would choose the G2 CF chassis. Thats 2x more though...

[GorillaMaxx360]

You know the DUH shock towers can use mugen wing mounts. But science the flm shock tower mounts have so many holes can you make them use the wing mounts too.

[squeeforever]

The FLM are designed for the Mugen wing mounts as well...

[Josh]

I also need to pick up a set of UE Diff Cases to put the 7.5 Diffs in. I talked to Mike and he said he could sell me a complete set.

EDIT: Can anyone get me a link to a mugen wing mount? I can't seem to find one.

[GorillaMaxx360]

The FLM are designed for the Mugen wing mounts as well...
cool your are refering to the ones with all the mounting postitions right. How are these towers (FLM) are they good or bad are they heavy do you recommend them over the DUH ones which do you recommend. how do these towers hold up.

[Sylvester]

Imo, the flms would be a better choice because of the warranty, the weight is similar to a rpm shocktower. Hmm i am not sure where they sell mugen mounts, cant help you there, Josh. Sorry.

[GorillaMaxx360]

Hmm i am not sure where they sell mugen mounts, . Sorry. yeah do you think a LHS would stock them. and do you think the ti shock towers would be alot lighter or not buy much compared to the flm ones also you said the flm ones are light almost like the rpm ones. so this means they are not much heaver than stock.

[Josh]

I doubt my LHS would have them. The owner is really, well how should I put this, stupid. He overcharges everything. He doesn't know what RPM is, or the difference between a Revo slider or a Maxx shaft.

I might just have to buy the Tekno. Is there anything wrong with it?

[GorillaMaxx360]

no i am not saying at your LHS i want some to i just want to know if at most LHS's they should have them in or can get them. Are they common to find do most LHS's carry mugen parts and cars

[squeeforever]

Not alot carry Mugen parts...Just get them from Amainhobbies.com if Mike doesn't have them...Also, it says on RC-M that the FLM towers only weight 24 grams I believe, so there very light. Yes, I would recommend them over the DUH Engineering towers. Josh, don't get the UE diffs cases...Get the FLM hybrid bulkheads. They incorporate the diff case into the bulks and makes for easier maintance as well as a stronger design. And there only $140...I think there the best way to go...

[coolhandcountry]

The 24 grams my have been for old ones. I think the new may be a touch heavier.
But the newer are stronger I think and more adjustments.

[GorillaMaxx360]

thanks guys

[Josh]

I already have a set of ACNCM bulkheads so I wasn't loooking to buy a whole new bulkhead setup. I'm just going to go with UE diff cases for now. I know that the diff cases on the FLM are already designed into the bulkheads which makes it a lot easier to take apart.

Josh :028:

[Sylvester]

IMO the acncm bulks are made out of a very soft aluminum and tend to break, if i were you id sell them off and get hybrids.

[Josh]

I've come to a conclusion. This will be on hold for a while since I'm in real need of a 1:1. So my Christmas money is mostly going towards a 1986 CJ-7 Jeep.

Thank you all.

Josh :028:

[turbo4]

Strobe all the way....

Josh, just FYI (not sure if you know). You need Revo knuckles, 3.3 arms, and 3.3 turnbuckles to run the sliders, but its a much better combo...

Im trying to duplicate this mod, but Im not real sure if Im grasping all the different parts to do it. I put together a shopping cart, someone who is SURE, would you mind checking out the contents and telling me if its correct?

Thanks,Joel

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wto0149p

[jnev]

It shows the shopping cart is empty. :032:

[jhautz]

Dude, the link doesnt work. It links to my shopping cart. Try listing the part numbers.

I can tell you you need the 3.3 arms, sliders and knuckles. Just get them on ebay. It will be way cheaper.

[jhautz]

This post tells you the parts you need. I did this right when the 3.3 came out. Dont know if I was the first, but one of the first.

http://www.rc-monster.com/forum/showpost.php?p=55414&postcount=46

This is the whole thread where I was trying to figure out how to do it.
http://www.rc-monster.com/forum/showthread.php?t=3588
This should be what you looking for.

[turbo4]

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wto0149p

LXMJG8 Traxxas Drive Shaft Assembly

LXLMV7 RPM Axle Carriers & Oversized Bearings Black Revo(wasnt sure if this was what is being called the "knuckle"


LXMZT1 RPM A-Arms Upper/Lower White 2.5R/3.3


LXMJE0 Traxxas Turnbuckles/Toe Links Front (2)


LXMJE1 Traxxas Turnbuckles/Toe Links Rear (2)

[jhautz]

Looks good.

Youll also need this: http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXHGB7&P=ML
and this
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXHGC9&P=7

[turbo4]

This post tells you the parts you need. I did this right when the 3.3 came out. Dont know if I was the first, but one of the first.

http://www.rc-monster.com/forum/showpost.php?p=55414&postcount=46

This is the whole thread where I was trying to figure out how to do it.
http://www.rc-monster.com/forum/showthread.php?t=3588
This should be what you looking for.

Thanks for that link. Now, why is the tower link working for me and nobody else?? Anyway, I had the revo carriers , not the maxx carriers so I guess that was wrong.

[jhautz]

Thanks for that link. Now, why is the tower link working for me and nobody else?? Anyway, I had the revo carriers , not the maxx carriers so I guess that was wrong.
The shopping cart is based on a cookie. Your computer has that cookie and nobody else does.

Revo and Maxx 3.3 carriers are the same. What you have is fine.

[turbo4]

The shopping cart is based on a cookie. Your computer has that cookie and nobody else does.

Revo and Maxx 3.3 carriers are the same. What you have is fine.

What? Now Im really confused. The rpm carriers for the maxx and revo seem to be different.

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0091p?&C=CMC&V=RPM

[turbo4]

Im not necessarily buying from tower just trying to get a "snapshot" on what everything looks like. Tower price would be $180 not counting any discounts. What should/would be a good deal for this outfit?

[jhautz]

The stock revo and tmax 3.3 knuckles are the same. I think you are looking at the older maxx style knuckles. If you want to use the 3.3 sliders you need the ones with the large bearings. The revo ones you listed will work.

Not sure on the Ebay price. But it will certainly be much cheaper.

[turbo4]

The ones I linked to were rpm carriers not the stock ones.

Of all the parts you listed are the stock parts good enough or do I need to look for aftermarket parts for the 3.3 parts.(not counting the sliders) I searched on ebay and I found all the parts you listed (stock traxxas). Looks way cheaper like you said. thanks for your help.

[jhautz]

I went with everything stock except the arms. They are the RPM 3.3 arms. Seems plenty though to me. I havent broken one yet.

[turbo4]

Sounds good. One more question. A lot of the parts on ebay for the 3.3 stuff also say 2.5R. Are some of these parts the same for the revo, maxx 3.3 and the maxx 2.5R? Or do I need to only look for 3.3 parts?

[jhautz]

2.5R is the new version of the 2.5 Its basically a 3.3 with only the 2.5 motor. All the stuff you are looking for is the same. 3.3 - 2.5R... its all the same.

[turbo4]

Cool. I just picked up the carriers w/bearings, shafts & turnbuckles w/the ends...off ebay. Just need to get the arms and I should be set.

Thanks for the help.

Joel

[Serum]

Joel, that link is directed to your own basket.. It doesn't work..

[coolhandcountry]

I picked all my stuff up off of ebay for my conversion.

[phildogg]

I run the 3.3 stuff on mine with 2.5 arms.. no rubbing anywhere.. I scored all my stuff of ebay for around 50.00 not including diffs..
phil

[turbo4]

I got all my parts together(i hope) for this mod. The first thing I noticed was that the stock lower arms have a "channel" for the shock ends to go between where you set the screw. The rpm ones do not. Do I just mount the shocks on the outside of the bracket on the lower arms?

[neweuser]

yes sir....

[jnev]

Nice. RPM makes amazing parts.

[Josh]

This thread has gained about two pages since I stopped posting in it. Now that I have some money towards my Jeep, I've been really wanting a new chassis for my E-Maxx. I do like the GorillaMaxx G2 chassis but it sits way to low and does not look good with a body since the chassis is hanging way down there.

I need a suggestion(s) on a new chassis. I've been looking at the FLM one and it seems pretty decent. Is it any good? Is there anything better? I want something that can survive a severe beating while still being lightweight and affordable. Is it possible?

Thanks,

Josh :028:

[GorillaMaxx360]

FLM is nice check out some pics here (http://www.rc-monster.com/forum/showthread.php?t=5410) i have yet to use it but it appears it is the strongest chassis i have ever seen and the best part is the price it is only 90 bucks if you are a basher i recommend this chassis if you are a racer i recommend the gmaxx one. For your purposes i would say go with the FLM chassis it adds lots of strength looks good and is pretty much indestructible.

[turbo4]

Im installing the 3.3 stuff and got a question. On the carriers where the turnbuckle mates to it on the ball link, it looks like there are a front and rear version. From some pics I looked at it seems the ones positioned in the center of the link are for the rear and the others for the front with the turnbuckle link riding in the "higher position" as opposed to flipping it over the other way. Just making sure it goes together right the first time.

Thanks, J.

[Sylvester]

The flm chassis are light and can take a beating, at a great price too. Even if anything does happen ; you have the warranty.

[neweuser]

FLM, it's the way to go if you are a basher...and bodies will fit properly.

[Sylvester]

Just make sure to get an extended body.

[neweuser]

Just make sure to get an extended body.
I'll second that, the FLM is extended. But there are more and more extended alternatives to bodies now too.

[Procharged5.0]

Some "non extended" bodies also fit. I prefer the look of the extended bodies however.

[GorillaMaxx360]

i like the look of the non extended bodys if you use a wing that means that is less you have to cut out of the back end of the body to get the wing to fit (But this does not apply in your situation in your situation if you go flm extended will do you good)

[Josh]

Which bodies do you guys suggest? If I do get the FLM chassis will I be able to mock up a LST body?

Josh :028:

[neweuser]

If you are getting the extended version, there is an extended ford body that Mike sells. Otherwise, if you're looking for a crowdpleazer type, the Revo 3.3 pleazer would work, which I'm sure Mike could get for you as well.

[wallot]

I use proline LST2 body on my FLM maxx and it fits perfectly u can check pictures on my web (i got couple on this forums in gallery - http://www.rc-monster.com/coppermine/albums/userpics/11209/normal_DSC_0099.JPG

[Josh]

What would be the least expensive method to upgrading my differentials. I'm in need of some cash and I need to sell of my 7.5 Buggy Differentials which I never used and are brand new (PM Me if your intrested).

So something like RRP Diff gears or something?

Josh :028:

[squeeforever]

Well, Not sure what you can get for those diffs, but I'm assuming its about what it would cost you to upgrade using RRP gears and aluminum cups and such. I would simply use the diffs you have with FLM Hybrid bulks. If you don't want, don't have, or can't get CVD's, theres a little mod to make them slider compatible.

[Josh]

I have CVD's already. I'm just looking for a alternate method (AKA cheaper) to upgrading my differentials.

It's been running through my head if I should sell the E_Maxx or not.

Josh :028:

[neweuser]

IMO, use what squee said, otherwise you are looking at getting new diffs anyway. If you use the stock diffs with cups, you still are forking out the dough for those as well as aluminum casings. Just use the 1/8th diffs. Get the hybrids...the cost would be cheaper.

[GorillaMaxx360]

yes do the slider deal this is what is am doing it is cheap yet very effective sliders and knuckles new areunder 50 with shipping on ebay for both of them and they are more realiable than mip cvds IMO because i have heard of people breaking mips but not the sliders

[neweuser]

yes do the slider deal this is what is am doing it is cheap yet very effective sliders and knuckles new areunder 50 with shipping on ebay for both of them and they are more realiable than mip cvds IMO because i have heard of people breaking mips but not the sliders
Some here have had success with the MIP's. Also, could we get some punctuation? It would be easier to read what you type.....:018:

[GorillaMaxx360]

i know some of you use them with great ease, but i was just saying it is rarer to see broken sliders than broken MIP's. Nothing agenst mip i just recommended it becuase it was cheap and works great for the price. (Sorry about the puncuation just woke up)

[neweuser]

i know some of you use them with great ease, but i was just saying it is rarer to see broken sliders than broken MIP's. Nothing agenst mip i just recommended it becuase it was cheap and works great for the price. (Sorry about the puncuation just woke up)
It's all good! :)

[ClodMaxx]

josh -

not sure where you're at on your build, but if you're serious about the powerstrokes, don't get the RPM shock towers. because of their flexibility, the powerstrokes put unequal force on them causing them to flex away from center. (the bypass shocks don't put the same amount of pressure as the outside coil-overs). i now have to find different towers, and i'll prob. go with the FLM's.

just a heads-up.

[Josh]

So should I go with DUH Engineering shock towers? If I do, would I just throw out the entire Powerstroke idea and hook up some 1/8 Buggy shocks?

I'm debating about cracking open the bank account.

Josh :028:

[ClodMaxx]

right now UE has the RacerX Knucklehead shock towers half off - $35 for 2, and i believe they're 7075 aluminum. i ordered a set last week because of the price. don't throw out the powerstroke idea - they're great shocks!

here's a link to the knuckleheads:
http://www.unlimitedengineering.com/cgi-bin/store/10102.html

[squeeforever]

I would go for FLM towers. That and Powerstrokes will make a GREAT setup.

[ssspconcepts]

Just finished...
photos and lessons learned attached

[ssspconcepts]

Can anyone tell me where I can buy a single speed tranny for the E-maxx? Everywhere I look is out of stock...

[Serum]

Awesome maxx!

truely nice! the integy shocks might be replaced some day.

www.gorillamaxx.com, that would explain the delay.. :)

[ssspconcepts]

Awesome maxx!

truely nice! the integy shocks might be replaced some day.

www.gorillamaxx.com, that would explain the delay.. :)


Thanks Serum. I learned a lot from your guys' posts before embarked on this project. Everything I did prior to was stadium trucks and minis. A lot of work went into installing the telemetry stuff...more wiring than I like to see, but makes driving more fun.

You are right about the integy shocks....steering knuckles too. I originally bought integy ti pivot balls and alum steering knuckles....they should fit together like a glove right? Wrong, I had to grind the heck out of the pivot ball recesses on the knuckles before the pivot balls would fit. I checked, double, triple, and quad druple checked to see if I ordered compatible parts-I did...they just don't fit together. I guess integy engineers must have corrupted version of auto-cad:) I'll never buy anything from them again...

Maybe down the road I'll go for the racerx supermaxx shocks...what do you think about those?

[DickyT]

Very nice Maxx! Your "lessons learned" .pdf will come in handy when I underake my BL project. Thank you for sharing.

[GorillaMaxx360]

nice ride! How do you like those arms are they smooth is there any binding and is there a lot of play in the arms or are they pretty solid

[Serum]

The racer-X supermaxx shocks are hot. They are way tougher than the integy's. I have got the same feeling towards Integy as you have.

[ssspconcepts]

nice ride! How do you like those arms are they smooth is there any binding and is there a lot of play in the arms or are they pretty solid

I really like the FLM setup. The arms are rock solid w/no binding. FLM includes hinge pins, but I used Lundsford Ti. The only thing is the my truck is heavy...I've loaded it up pretty good. Consequently, I am having a hard time finding good shocks.

I plan to put in a single speed tranny...or slipperential (if it will fit) to help with the weight.

[GorillaMaxx360]

How heavy is your truck about. Wieght wont really matter to me because mine is a basher. Here is my maxx it will look alomost like yours when it is done because i am getting flm arms instead of the ti ones i have right now. But dont worry it wont be the same it will have a lot of stuff different but it will be similar.
http://i116.photobucket.com/albums/o6/GorillaMaxx360/P1220003.jpg
http://i116.photobucket.com/albums/o6/GorillaMaxx360/P1220004.jpg
http://i116.photobucket.com/albums/o6/GorillaMaxx360/P1220005.jpg
http://i116.photobucket.com/albums/o6/GorillaMaxx360/P1010034.jpg
http://i116.photobucket.com/albums/o6/GorillaMaxx360/P1010028-1.jpg

[ssspconcepts]

How heavy is your truck about. Wieght wont really matter to me because mine is a basher. Here is my maxx it will look alomost like yours when it is done because i am getting flm arms instead of the ti ones i have right now. But dont worry it wont be the same it will have a lot of stuff different but it will be similar.
http://i116.photobucket.com/albums/o6/GorillaMaxx360/P1220003.jpg
http://i116.photobucket.com/albums/o6/GorillaMaxx360/P1220004.jpg
http://i116.photobucket.com/albums/o6/GorillaMaxx360/P1220005.jpg
http://i116.photobucket.com/albums/o6/GorillaMaxx360/P1010034.jpg
http://i116.photobucket.com/albums/o6/GorillaMaxx360/P1010028-1.jpg

Yeah....your ride looks nice. I like the flextec arms...I hear they are the best. Mine's a basher too. I guess it weighs about 18lbs with two 7-cell batteries...give or take a pound. A couple things I would do differently knowing what I know now:

(a) RacerX Shocks
(b) 1/8 diffs or the UE diffs
(c) maybe a different brushless motor package

[GorillaMaxx360]

i love my bigbores and they where only 70 bucks they are smooth. i am running hb diffs in mine and quark 125b and soon to come a MMM motor

[ssspconcepts]

i love my bigbores and they where only 70 bucks they are smooth. i am running hb diffs in mine and quark 125b and soon to come a MMM motor
Exactly what diffs are you running?

[GorillaMaxx360]

Hot Bodies Buggy diffs

[ssspconcepts]

Has anyone purchased anything thru www.unlimitedengineering.com ?

The reason I ask is because I attempted to place an online order, but UE's security certificate is expired...which prompted me to send them email to make sure they are still indeed selling product through their website. They never answered any of my emails....

Needless to say, I am a little apprehensive to buy anything from any vendor that doesn't have an up to date 128 bit SSL security certificate....

If Mike sells the same product (steering servo saver)...I'll gladly buy from him.

[Serum]

Shoot him an email. He can get you the UE stuff as a service.

[squeeforever]

Has anyone purchased anything thru www.unlimitedengineering.com ?

The reason I ask is because I attempted to place an online order, but UE's security certificate is expired...which prompted me to send them email to make sure they are still indeed selling product through their website. They never answered any of my emails....

Needless to say, I am a little apprehensive to buy anything from any vendor that doesn't have an up to date 128 bit SSL security certificate....

If Mike sells the same product (steering servo saver)...I'll gladly buy from him.

Its in the store...Just look and you'll find it.

[ssspconcepts]

Its in the store...Just look and you'll find it.
It is there...but out of stock.

[squeeforever]

E-mail Mike. Theres a big possibility that he has more, there just not on the site. He does that for his e-mail orders, etc.

[Josh]

Can someone make a list (With Tower Hobbies links) for what I'll need to convert the stock driveline to Revo driveline? That is, if the REVO shafts would work with 7.5 Buggy diffs??!

[squeeforever]

They will, but you will have to do some mods. All you need is 4 Revo axle stubs and cut the threads off. Instant output shafts.

[GorillaMaxx360]

i am doing this mod too i will let you know how it turns out by the end of this week

[jhautz]

Just got the stuff to do this mod myself. I will probably get to it next week some time. I'll try and post some how 2 pictures when I do it.

[GorillaMaxx360]

cool

[Josh]

Sorry for the long delay. Being that I am fourteen years old, money is real tight around here. Take into consideration I'm going to need a 1:1 soon!

I'll try to fill you in on any orders I place for the Maxx. Although, I did throw on some 23mm hubs. Now to get rid of the stock tires and wheels to throw on some 40's!

[Josh]

Think these will hold up to the Monster Maxx or any BL abuse?

http://www.traxxas.com/scripts/trxnews/news.php?newsid=109

I still find it hard to come up with a mount for the 1/8 Buggy diffs to work with either the stock REVO shafts or the new CVD shafts. How would I get this to work!?

[jnev]

As far as I know, the Traxxas 3.3 axles work with Mike's 1/8 diffs he sells.

[Serum]

[quote]Think these will hold up to the Monster Maxx or any BL abuse?[quote] time and user experience will tell.

[coolhandcountry]

As far as I know, the Traxxas 3.3 axles work with Mike's 1/8 diffs he sells.
I thought mike included the shafts for the stock 3.3 shafts to work. I could be
wrong on this stuff.