Another Brushless REVO conversion

[Shark413]

Hi, my first post here. Every since I got my Revo (nitro) I wanted to convert one to electric power. I have a tricked out E-Maxx but the Revo just handles so much better. I can't wait for Traxxas to make one so I started collecting the parts to convert a nitro Revo to brushless. I finally got enough of the parts to start putting my brushless REVO project together. I was waiting on a custom motor mount (thanks Paul) and it finally arrived this weekend. First, many people who do these conversion use the E-Maxx tranny and motor mounts, I wanted to use the stock Revo tranny with it's auto 2 speed and disk brake. So I needed a special motor mount to use the REVO tranny. I had to machine a stock REVO nitro engine mount to fit onto the new brushless motor mount to give it extra support. The brushless motor puts out a lot of torque and without the extra bracing the chassis flexes way too much.

http://www.pix8.net/pro/pic/2813KUH0k/992475.jpg
Here is my Nitro Revo and the roller chassis I am using for the brushless conversion

http://www.pix8.net/pro/pic/2813KUH0k/992474.jpg
Here is the custom motor mount

http://www.pix8.net/pro/pic/2813KUH0k/992472.jpg
Stock nitro Revo motor mount machined to fit the brushless motor mount


http://www.pix8.net/pro/pic/2813KUH0k/992471.jpg
Bottom view of the motor mount


http://www.pix8.net/pro/pic/2813KUH0k/992473.jpg
Here is a picture of the chassis with the battery trays mounted

I still need make a plate for the receiver and ESC to sit on (waiting on some carbon fiber stock), I have to install the motor, tires, paint the body and hook up the disk brake. Still have a ways to go but I should soon have it ready for a test run. I would also like to mouint the batteries lower, so I may play around with different mounts to get the CG perfect.

[canadianrcist]

that looks very nice. good job on it. you could mount those batteries on the underside of the chassis to get a low CG.

http://www.rc-monster.com/forum/showthread.php?t=4725&page=4

i also did a revo conversion.

you could make a mount plate for the esc and attach it to the rear shock tower where the exhuast hold down attaches.

[BrianG]

Welcome to the forums!

Nice job on the conversion!

A suggestion? You could try to move your brake servo further forward and make a new brake linkage. This would give you more room on that side for longer batteries, like Lipos. Even if they are on one side, the balance should still be very close since Lipos are lighter and you have the motor and some of the tranny on the other side. You could mount the receiver and ESC on the same side of the motor and you should be golden. Just my $0.02.

Good job!

[Shark413]

Thanks for the tips and suggestions, I appreciate your input. Still a work in progress. Sounds like a very knowledgeble group here, so I am sure I will be updating this thread with many more questions.

Regards

[Serum]

Looks great Shark!

Nice motorholder; looking at the edges, is it lasercutted?

You might need to support the motor to keep it from flexing.

Kyosho batteryholder enable you to hold 7 cells per holder.

[jhautz]

Hey Very Nice!!!

Love that motor mount. I was thinking about doing something like that but never got around to it. Do you by any chance have the drawings or a CAD file for a that motor mount? Id love to make one for myself.

[Shark413]

The motor mount came from a fellow rc monster poster, his URL is www.eaglesviewaerial.com/products.html and he does fantastic CNC machining in metal and carbon fiber.

When I first got his mount I installed it as is, with none of the stock REVO motor mounts. There was a ton of chassis flex, so I decide I needed to also use the stock nitro motor mount brackets and reinforcement brace. I had to mill the nitro mount flat so I could bolt the brushless mount on top of it. Then I added the extra Traxxas reinforcement plate and bolted everything together. After all of that there was no flex at all, but I agree that a motor brace (rear or mid) would really bulletproof the mounting. I think I can machine a small "U" shaped bracket that can fit under the motor, which I can bolt to the mount. This should provide good mid/rear mount support for the motor.

[squeeforever]

Nice conversion! I am thinking of doing another, very similar. Stock 2 speed, FOC, center diff w/ rear brakes, and 4S LiPo on the right side with the 2 servos and motor on the other.

[GorillaMaxx360]

Nice conversion

[BrianG]

The motor mount came from a fellow rc monster poster, his URL is www.eaglesviewaerial.com/products.html and he does fantastic CNC machining in metal and carbon fiber...

His name is b0gh0s. I was going to have him custom make a motor mount for me for my Revo, but he got too busy. His current mount wouldn't work with the XL motors because they were too long and rear wires would hit the suspension arms due to the mounting height of the motor.

[Shark413]

It Lives....

Last night, I mounted the motor and ESC. I moved the battery trays lower, hooked up the brakes and put the tires on. If weather and daylight permit, I will give it a run today. Also, I will try to find my scale and see how heavy it is.

http://www.pix8.net/pro/pic/2813KUH0k/992741.jpg
Motor mounted


http://www.pix8.net/pro/pic/2813KUH0k/992742.jpg
Completed chassis

http://www.pix8.net/pro/pic/2813KUH0k/992743.jpg
Wheels on

http://www.pix8.net/pro/pic/2813KUH0k/992744.jpg
Which one is fastest?

[Serum]

Hard to tell, which hvmaxx is it? they are not known for their brutal strength, but so is nitro.. :p

[coolhandcountry]

Looks nice man.

[Shark413]

Serum, where could I find some Kyosho batteryholders? I checked around but couldn't find any.

[Serum]

Mike carries them, shoot him an email.

[GorillaMaxx360]

Hey man i was looking at the revo yesterday and i thought good truck but today beings i was so board i looked at each picture very closly for like a minute each and i realized how you mounted the motor. that is so cool and sick. Great job not only on the looks but one the machining and the design to allow you to use the stock motor mount(which is very strong because it has to hold the 3.3 power) using the existing motor mount gives extra stregnth to the motor mount your made nice job!!. i do not have a revo but if i did and i wanted to go electric and i wanted to use the stock revo trans i would want something like that (very clean, sharp, looks prrofessional). Man you should talk to monster mike and see about selling that motor mount because people would buy it NICE Again

[Shark413]

Ok, I took it for a spin today and man does it go. Very strong from a stand still (I forgot how much torque electric motors have, been running nitro's too long). Had to loosen up the slipper a little because I was worried the spur would lose some teeth. The disk brake works great, I had to loosen them up as well (way too strong). It was getting dark and I didn't have anyone around to hold the radar gun so I didn't get any speed readings (coming soon). I did get a chance to weight it on my super duper Oregon Scientific model BWR102 scale. Using generic 3000 mAh batteries the E-Revo weighted in at 10.3 lbs. Without the batteries it weighted 8.8 lbs. My almost bone stock Nitro Revo weighted 8.7 lbs. So not too bad.

[squeeforever]

Hey man i was looking at the revo yesterday and i thought good truck but today beings i was so board i looked at each picture very closly for like a minute each and i realized how you mounted the motor. that is so cool and sick. Great job not only on the looks but one the machining and the design to allow you to use the stock motor mount(which is very strong because it has to hold the 3.3 power) using the existing motor mount gives extra stregnth to the motor mount your made nice job!!. i do not have a revo but if i did and i wanted to go electric and i wanted to use the stock revo trans i would want something like that (very clean, sharp, looks prrofessional). Man you should talk to monster mike and see about selling that motor mount because people would buy it NICE Again

You obviously weren't that bored since you didn't read this:

The motor mount came from a fellow rc monster poster, his URL is www.eaglesviewaerial.com/products.html and he does fantastic CNC machining in metal and carbon fiber.

[Shark413]

Ok some new pictures. I added a handmade antenna mount, the ESC looked way to vulneraleble so I put the rollbar back on. Since it is heavier I went one spring stiffer front and back.

http://www.pix8.net/pro/pic/2813KUH0k/993077.jpg

http://www.pix8.net/pro/pic/2813KUH0k/993076.jpg

http://www.pix8.net/pro/pic/2813KUH0k/993079.jpg
Normal Pro-line Badland at rest

http://www.pix8.net/pro/pic/2813KUH0k/993078.jpg
Hitting the throttle. Good test of your tire gluing skills.

[gixxer]

who makes those decals on the wheels? oh nice conversion too.

[GorillaMaxx360]

You obviously weren't that bored since you didn't read this:
when i said i was board(i meant the site did not have any new posts for a while so i decided to take a closer look at the revo pics(without reading all the replies-very stupid of me) i saw the motor mount and then had to comment AFTER i posted my comment i then read where he got it from and i kind of felt bad he already answered it ) SORRY:007:

[Shark413]

I was able to make a few runs today before it got too dark. Unfortunetly I only had some 3900 mHa 6 cell Ni-Mh packs and I wasn't even sure they were fully charged. Anyways I made some runs of about 100 feet and the best I could do was 36 mph. I am running a 40T spur and a 15T pinion. I made about 10 full speed runs and the motor and ESC were cool to the touch. Does that speed sound ok with the setup I used? The accelleration was very strong, and the truck was very quick it just seemed that the top speed was a little low.


http://www.pix8.net/pro/pic/2813KUH0k/993505.jpg

http://www.pix8.net/pro/pic/2813KUH0k/993507.jpg



Happy Holidays

[BrianG]

If both the motor and ESC were cool, I'd gear up to the 38T spur and see how that does. If everything is still cool, go to the 36T spur.

[canadianrcist]

ive got the 36t spur on a 16t pinion, and after about 20mins of speed runs and off roading it, the esc is warmish to the touch .

[Shark413]

Ok, I decided to work on the body and I discovered that the body wouldn't clear the ESC when mounted in the back. So I decided to move the ESC to the right side of the tranny. Body now fits, ESC proctected. Originally I wanted the CG centered left to right and slightly bias toward the rear. With the batteries mounted side saddle there is more weight on the left side (battery plus motor on left, battery, ESC, receiver on right). But, mounted side saddle the batteries are very low which lowers the CG, and theroetically should make it corner better. I decided to experiment and I mounted a carbon fiber plate on top of the rear shocks, using some alloy brackets and the rear body mount. On this I added the left side battery, so I had a battery on top and one on the right side. In this configuration the CG was almost perfectly balanced left to right with a rear bias, just what I wanted. But with one battery mounted on top this moved the CG higher. The top configuration I assume would be similar to a Revo conversion using the E-Maxx tranny with the motor mounted on top. The utimate test I guess would be to try both configurations on the track and see which works out better. I appreciate your feedback and suggestions.



http://www.pix8.net/pro/pic/2813KUH0k/993529.jpg
Body trimmed and mounted.

http://www.pix8.net/pro/pic/2813KUH0k/993530.jpg
ESC moved.


http://www.pix8.net/pro/pic/2813KUH0k/993531.jpg
CF top plate mounted.

http://www.pix8.net/pro/pic/2813KUH0k/993528.jpg
Pack mounted on top.

http://www.pix8.net/pro/pic/2813KUH0k/993532.jpg
Side view.




Happy Holidays.

[Serum]

Why do you put the batteries further to the rear? It's a heck of a mass, sitting relative high and far to the rear.

[Shark413]

Regarding the gearing, I have a problem. Using the special motor mount I can only use the 40T spur and 15T pinion. I cannot move the mount any further to the right to adjust for smaller Spurs or pinions. This is because I am using the Revo Mod 1 gears. The mount was originally designed to use the stock 48pitch gears off an E-Maxx. I like the Mod 1's because they are stronger. I guess I could drill and re-tap some new holes to allow me more adjustment, but there isn't much selection in Mod 1 pinions with a 3mm bore hole and the largest spur traxxas makes for the Revo is a 40. I could probably mod a truggy spur to fit, but that would be more work. And on the track I race on, 36 mph top speed and super strong accelleration works out perfectly.

[Shark413]

Serum, It's just that with a battery and motor on one side and a single battery on the other the CG is heavily bias to the side with the battery and motor. I am worried that the handling will be adversly impacted. The track where I race has several double and triple jumps and the thought of a left side heavy 10.5 pound MT hitting those jumps at speed could be trouble. I imagine it would start pulling left after each jump. I agree that with the batteries sitting so far back and high that it seems like it probably won't handle very well. But Like I said, It will be easy for me to move the batteries around to see how the different battery configurations effect the handling. I won't be able to run it in the dirt for a while (Holidays). Thanks for the feedback.

[BrianG]

Regarding the gearing, I have a problem. Using the special motor mount I can only use the 40T spur and 15T pinion. I cannot move the mount any further to the right to adjust for smaller Spurs or pinions. This is because I am using the Revo Mod 1 gears. The mount was originally designed to use the stock 48pitch gears off an E-Maxx. I like the Mod 1's because they are stronger. I guess I could drill and re-tap some new holes to allow me more adjustment, but there isn't much selection in Mod 1 pinions with a 3mm bore hole and the largest spur traxxas makes for the Revo is a 40. I could probably mod a truggy spur to fit, but that would be more work. And on the track I race on, 36 mph top speed and super strong accelleration works out perfectly.

Maybe "machine" out the mesh slots on the mount for more range??

BTW: The person who made your mount actually uses 32p gears IIRC. Maybe see if the Jato 54T spur fits there? It might not since it is kinda large in diameter compared to the Mod1 40T, but might fit since you have the spur spacer...

[Shark413]

BrianG, as you may already know the 40T mod 1 spur comes very close to the chassis. There really isn't much room for a larger Mod 1 spur gear. With a 48P spur you can probably squeeze in a slightly bigger (numerically more teeth) gear because they are physicaly smaller. I may go that route eventually, if track testing shows I need the gear (lower) change. The slots on the mount are pretty much as close to the edges as you could make them. As I said you would have to drill and tap new screw holes to be able to use smaller Mod 1 pinion/spur gears. The accelleration is fine, I was just a little worried about the top speed, which would require a smaller spur/pinion. I need to radar my nitro Revo to see how they compare, I don't trust the Traxxas advertisments (40+ mph). Also, I don't think the gear box was shifting into 2nd gear. So I need to adjust the transmission shift point to make it shift sooner, to see if this makes a differnce. Overall I am very happy with the conversion, because with one as complicated as this it normally takes several prototypes to get it perfect. And there is a lot of fine tuning that still needs to be done (gearing, close ratio gears, shifting adjustment, more powerful batteries, different tires, battery placement, CG adjustments, etc.). This will require track time and that will have to wait until the new year..


Regards

[BrianG]

Yeah, I knew the spur gets pretty close, but wasn't sure if that spur spacer piece you got as part of the conversion kit added enough space to allow a little more clearance for larger spurs.

Since you're still using the two-speed tranny, you could gear up by simply getting a larger pinion. The thing is, to get the pinion to physically reach the spur with that mount, the pinion will probably need to be big.

Don't forget, there are three 2nd gear options, close, normal, and wide ratios, which you can use to get the gearing you want.

[Shark413]

BrianG, yeah I have the close ratio gear set. So I have several setups to test out. Std gearing and close ratrio internally, I have a 36, 38 and 40T mod 1 spurs, I have a 13 and 15T mod 1 pinions and I could use the adpater and use 48P Spurs and pinions. But I really like the mod 1 gears. I also want to get the wide ratio gear set as well. How is your brushless Revo working out? Have you tried Lipo's yet?

[BrianG]

No, no Lipos, still 14 GP3300 cells. I love my Revo. I locked it into second gear though so I could use reverse and motor brake. I'm also using the wide ratio gear set. BTW: first gear in each set is the same, it's only 2nd gear that changes. I don't know how fast it is, but is plenty fast for the small LHS track...

[GriffinRU]

After playing for some time with REVO adapters (http://www.rc-monster.com/forum/showthread.php?t=2729)found out that rear motor support is the most important thing.

I like this setup (http://forum.rcdesign.ru/index.php?s=&showtopic=21986&view=findpost&p=361639), as being close to ideal

Artur

[Serum]

My current mounts make the motor sit so low, that it hangs on the bottom of the L plate. Works like a charm. Low CG and a good support.

[BrianG]

After playing for some time with REVO adapters (http://www.rc-monster.com/forum/showthread.php?t=2729)found out that rear motor support is the most important thing.

I like this setup (http://forum.rcdesign.ru/index.php?s=&showtopic=21986&view=findpost&p=361639), as being close to ideal

Artur

Personally, I like the first one better. It uses 6 screws to hold the mount down. The second one relies on only 4 screws into the relatively weak stock motor mount. I do like the rear support though, but it seems it only works for a certain motor length.

(@GriffinRU: The first setup is what I PM'd you about)

To support the rear of the motor in my current design, I just wedged a thick piece of rubbin between the underside of the motor and the mount. Not the prettiest, but it worked. :)

[GriffinRU]

(@GriffinRU: The first setup is what I PM'd you about)

:)

This one right?

Artur

[BrianG]

This one right?

Artur

Yup, that's the one...

Although, if it's easier, I don't think I need the pivoting base since the motor itself can be adjusted by the slots...

[GriffinRU]

Yup, that's the one...

Although, if it's easier, I don't think I need the pivoting base since the motor itself can be adjusted by the slots...

Any thoughts on this support?

Artur

P.S. flip support 180 to match mounting holes...

[BrianG]

Yeah, that looks like it could work nicely! :027: The only thing to remember is to adjust the support when you adjust the mesh, but that's no biggie. I'd probably add a thin layer of foam or some type of cushion to keep from scratching the motor, but that's easy to do.

You haven't by any chance made a stronger mount did you? I mean the longer parts (http://www.buytraxxas.com/images/products/5360.jpg) that go over to the bulkhead ends and supports the stock pivot point. It seems to be made of pot-metal or something.

[GriffinRU]

Yeah, that looks like it could work nicely! :027: The only thing to remember is to adjust the support when you adjust the mesh, but that's no biggie. I'd probably add a thin layer of foam or some type of cushion to keep from scratching the motor, but that's easy to do.

You haven't by any chance made a stronger mount did you? I mean the longer parts (http://www.buytraxxas.com/images/products/5360.jpg) that go over to the bulkhead ends and supports the stock pivot point. It seems to be made of pot-metal or something.

What about making them from plastic (delrin...)
You can set it once and then set gear mesh with swing arm, like with Nitro.

No, I didn't. Do they fail?

Artur

[Serum]

I would not use a delrin as material for a mount. No heat transfer and too flexible IMO, i tried a nylon mount, of 10 mm thick, but it was too flexible. perhaps you can drill holes in it and push a 7075 aluminum tube in it for support.

[BrianG]

What about making them from plastic (delrin...)
You can set it once and then set gear mesh with swing arm, like with Nitro.

No, I didn't. Do they fail?

Artur

Plastic should work nicely for the rear support as long as it's ~3mm+ thick. And I don't think it necessarily has to be delrin, but that sure would work.

Actually, I wasn't planning on using the "swing-arm" Nitro mesh adjustment. It is made for a pinion that sits under the spur really. The traditional slotted holes you made would be better IMO since the motor sits more to the side. I guess you could use the swing arm mesh adjustment to tweak the angle of the mount to suit personal preference though.

I've never heard of a broken motor mount, even with using the 3.3, but it seems like it's kinda cheaply made. It does seem to hold though, so maybe I'm being too anal about it.


Oh, and apologies to Shark413 for hijacking his thread... :dft001:

[Serum]

Sorry, i didn't realized it was a rear support, i thought it was meant as an entire mount.

Brian; if it can hold a nitro motor it can hold an electric as well.

[BrianG]

Brian; if it can hold a nitro motor it can hold an electric as well.

Well, I was just thinking about the instantaneous stresses of an electric motor vs a Nitro.

[coolhandcountry]

You trying to say it has more power brian?

[Serum]

I hear you Brian, but the nitro head is sticking out about 4 times as much.

[GriffinRU]

Oh, and apologies to Shark413 for hijacking his thread... :dft001:

Good call!

Artur

[BrianG]

@Serum: Yeah, the Nitro head does stick out more. Like I said, I thought I was maybe too anal. :)

@CHC: Yeah, I think it's safe to say that a properly sized BL setup has more "snap". :)

Since this thread has really gone away from the original topic, I was wondering if a mod could create a new thread and move the applicable posts there?

[Shark413]

I was finally able to get out to the local track (Hot Rod Hobbies in SoCal) today. The EVO's performance was very impressive. It held it's own agaisn't stock REVO's down the short main straight and killed them coming out of the corners because of the low speed torque. I was worried about the CG but she flew straight and level, easily clearing the doubles and triple jumps. The motor mount appeared to hold the motor very well and there were no problems with gear mesh or motor mount flex. I actually only got one tank through my nitro REVO because I spent most of the day running the EVO, it was that much fun. At first most people thought it was a standard nitro REVO but when it took off with no nitro buzz people started to gather to watch. I think Lipo's will be my next addition to lighten the truck and give it even more punch.

[coolhandcountry]

Cool!!!!
Poor nitro revo getting neglected. :D

[Shark413]

I still can't get over how fast and how well my Brushless Revo handles.

And this is with a mild Novak HV 6.5 and regular NiMh batteries. I

changed out the original battery mounts with some aluminum plate, the

new plates allow me more battery mounting options and are much

stronger. Some updated photos.

http://i142.photobucket.com/albums/r115/shark413/batttrays.jpg

Modified the battery trays so they would be more modular and stronger.

http://i142.photobucket.com/albums/r115/shark413/clean.jpg
Body finished, has not seen the dirt yet.

http://i142.photobucket.com/albums/r115/shark413/dirty.jpg
After a day at the local track.

[Shark413]

I just got around to cleaning my EVO and I noticed that the left rear shock rod end was broken. This is the same exact part that I broke on my Nitro Revo. At that time I thought it was because of the hot exhaust pipe causing the Rod end to melt. But Since the EVO doesn't have a hot exhaust pipe I guess it may be a design flaw. I changed the rod end out with an alloy part.

[b0gh0s]

The motor mount came from a fellow rc monster poster, his URL is www.eaglesviewaerial.com/products.html and he does fantastic CNC machining in metal and carbon fiber.

When I first got his mount I installed it as is, with none of the stock REVO motor mounts. There was a ton of chassis flex, so I decide I needed to also use the stock nitro motor mount brackets and reinforcement brace. I had to mill the nitro mount flat so I could bolt the brushless mount on top of it. Then I added the extra Traxxas reinforcement plate and bolted everything together. After all of that there was no flex at all, but I agree that a motor brace (rear or mid) would really bulletproof the mounting. I think I can machine a small "U" shaped bracket that can fit under the motor, which I can bolt to the mount. This should provide good mid/rear mount support for the motor.

Shark, glad you liked the mount.

Sorry I haven't been around much, primary job has been killing me.

I'm not following on the chassis flex issue and I'd like to better understand what flex you are seeing there. It is probably something easy to fix with the right cross bracing.

I have a few updates to the kit I've made including a mount that moves the ESC up over the rear shocks where fans can get some air (close to the cooling holes in the nitro bodies on the Traxxas lids). When I get a few run off you and the others that have bought get free upgrades (just pay for shipping).

Can you shoot pics and maybe point out where the flex it coming into play?

I've had ZERO issues with the setup flexing on mine but I might not be pushing my machine as hard as you guys do, I just beat around the ramps at the skateboard park near my house and in the front yard.

[Shark413]

It's been awhile but I seem to remember that your mount bolts directly to the Revo chassis without using the stock Revo nitro mount. In that configuration I was seeing some flex in the chassis. The Motor kinda hangs out there on two thin pieces of aluminum, and without the nitro mount to tie the motor/mount to the main chassis/diff I was seeing some flex in the chassis (between the motor and the main chassis). I modified the nitro mount so I could use it with your mount and no more flex. Your mount is still going strong and I have a more powerful motor on order. Yeah the tray over the shocks would be great, I am currently running my ESC over the front shocks, but I would prefer it in the rear. The only issue is the Novak ESC with its built in fan is kinda tall.

[BrianG]

Yeah, I had a little flex with just using the chassis (not using b0gh0s' mount). I got the one in the RCM store (which uses the stock Nitro mount) and the spur is in great shape which tells me that the mesh is solid (no flex). Even though the Nitro mount is nothing special, the way it wraps underneath to the bulks really helps shore up the chassis in that area.

b0gh0s; nothing against your mount at all - I think it's still very nice. I just think some way to strengthen the chassis would help. Don't forget; some of the motors we use are a little heavier and longer than the HV motors, so there is more stress on the mount, which is transferred to the chassis.

[jnev]

Sweet revo shark. Did you get any pictures while you were at the track?

[Shark413]

RC, those pictures were taken a while back and no I didn't get any track pictures. But the next time I go I will try to get some pictures and video. I filmed video of my nitro truggy but forgot about the Evo because I was having so much fun with it. Since the pictures above I have gone back to the stock Revo truck body so everyone knows what I am driving. I have also added the following:

Tekno extended wheelbase rear a-arms
Hitech HS-985MG steering servo.
Single steering servo mod
Steering Mod
Alloy parts for all shocks (caps, spring retainer, rod ends)
Alloy tie rods and push rods
Removed one spacer from push rod to lower the chassis
Close ratio gears and FOC
Spektrum receiver and telemetry module
50wt & silver springs front, 60wt & blue springs rear
RPM carriers
Novak HV 4.5 motor
Alloy pivot post
Ti pivot balls
23mm hubs

[BlackedOutREVO]

well u cant brag with out pics ;)
LOL

sounds sweet! looks awsome!

[Shark413]

Ok Ok, here are some pictures I dug up.

http://i142.photobucket.com/albums/r115/shark413/evotop.jpg
Evo sitting on my tool box.

http://i142.photobucket.com/albums/r115/shark413/buggy-1.jpg
No that's my 1/8 buggy, but the Evo was in the pit area

http://i142.photobucket.com/albums/r115/shark413/intheback.jpg
See the Evo in the back behind my truggy?

[BlackedOutREVO]

SWEET!

i like that paint job! and looks like a buggy that aint bl.......lol

[Shark413]

Since I originally put this Brushless Revo together I have made some significant updates. I have added Tekno extended a-arms to strech out the wheelbase, added RPM carriers, Center diff, rear brake, brake linkage, updated the engine from a Novak 6.5 to a 4.5 and I moved the ESC to the rear. I have the 1/8 diffs and Will add them as soon as I have time.

http://i142.photobucket.com/albums/r115/shark413/updated.jpg


http://i142.photobucket.com/albums/r115/shark413/top-1.jpg
Top view, showing rear brake linkage.

http://i142.photobucket.com/albums/r115/shark413/bottom-1.jpg
Bottom view, motor mount utilizes the stock nitro engine mount.

http://i142.photobucket.com/albums/r115/shark413/diffs.jpg
1/8 diffs

[Trick440]

Looks good man. .. Is that the traxxas 2055 servo for the break? What else is hooked to it .. the red servo arm linkage.. whats that doing?

[GriffinRU]

Looks good man. .. Is that the traxxas 2055 servo for the break? What else is hooked to it .. the red servo arm linkage.. whats that doing?
rear brake link

[Shark413]

Trick440, good eye. Yeah that is a stock Traxxas 2055, borderline I know. But for braking duties it is ok. I have $600+ dollars worth of servos in my road cars, nitro Revo, truggy and buggy, plus a few spares so this is all I could afford right now. At least I have a Hitech HS-965MG on the steering, which is again borderline but adequate for now. And as GriffinRU pointed out the red servo arm works the rear brake. Since I am running a center diff you need a front and rear brake.

[jollyjumper]

i've been wondering how brakes work with center diff, when you brake on your motor?

[BrianG]

Brakes on the CD work just like they do when using the motor to run the CD. Since you are braking on the CD, the end with the least amount of traction will have more of the braking force - which is usually the rear end because of brake dive. This tends to make steering quite sharp.

[jnev]

Very nice work!!

[Shark413]

jollyjumper, since I am using the Revo Nitro tranny, reversing the motor won't brake the car, it will just freewheel. So the disc brakes are necessary to stop the car. You need front and rear brakes because the center diff basically splits the drive train in two (front and back). I have the ESC set to only have forward speed and brake, no reverse. But the ESC brake action works the brake servo via a splitter (when the ESC sends a brake command the motor stops, but the tranny free wheels, but the signal is also sent to the brake servo, via the splitter, which works the likage connected to the front/rear disc brakes. It has very strong, consistant braking action that can easily be finetuned. I much prefer this setup (disc brakes) to the ESC/motor braking action in a normal electric car.

[BrianG]

Using mechanical brakes is better for the ESC too. However, I'm lazy and don't want to find extra room for the servo. :)

[AAngel]

Man, all of these revo threads are really making me want to do one myself.

[BrianG]

What's that? I think I hear a Revo faintly saying "AAngel, convert meeeee". :)

[AAngel]

Man, I think I hear something buzzing in my ear.

[Serum]

Thought my mind that was playing tricks on me..

convert me.. convert me.. listen to that poor thing!.. It's allmost begging!

I am going to work on mine today.. Thinking about getting those GRP wheels for her.

[AAngel]

I've been checking out that guy on ebay selling brand new rolling chassises for less than $300. On the other hand, I have a friend that got out of RC and he has a practically new Revo 3.3 with the center diff and I could get that for under $200.

Ohh, you guys are killing me. Actually, it'll be my wife that's killing me if she walks into my shop and sees another RC vehicle.

[Serum]

Remember; in these circumstances it's the truck of your best friend. If you don't have friends you can make one up, and call it Steve.. You met Steve at the hobby shop you visited because you wanted to sell some of your trucks (because you have got your hands full on 1 truck) and he wanted to have his revo converted.. (Mind you; Don't try this if your name is Pinocchio, because your nose would be most likely poking her eyes out)

It's not that hard to avoid the killing, you see?

[GriffinRU]

Remember; in these circumstances it's the truck of your best friend. If you don't have friends you can make one up, and call it Steve.. You met Steve at the hobby shop you visited because you wanted to sell some of your trucks (because you have got your hands full on 1 truck) and he wanted to have his revo converted.. (Mind you; Don't try this if your name is Pinocchio, because your nose would be most likely poking her eyes out)

It's not that hard to avoid the killing, you see?

Rene. that is the best excuse!!!

[BrianG]

Actually, it'll be my wife that's killing me if she walks into my shop and sees another RC vehicle.

You simply hide your least favorite one so the vehicle count will be the same. Or, don't let her in the basement. Or, make your work area such a mess that she doesn't see it sitting there among everything else. See? There are ways, you're just not trying hard enough! Where are your priorities? ;)

[SixShooter]

You simply hide your least favorite one so the vehicle count will be the same. Or, don't let her in the basement. Or, make your work area such a mess that she doesn't see it sitting there among everything else. See? There are ways, you're just not trying hard enough! Where are your priorities? ;)

Sounds like someones has done this before :005:


You can also have it shipped to a friends address and say it's his and your working on it ;) Just make sure you pay him cash so there is no paper trail.

[BrianG]

Actually, no. lol. It was just a few ideas off the top of my head. :)

[AAngel]

You guys are cracking me up. I've already done the hide my least favorite one, and then tell my wife that I traded it for the new one.

[Serum]

You are evil!! we are only suggesting it, and making fun of it.. but you are actually doing it!! you've got Balls boy...

[AAngel]

Hey, sometimes, you do what you've got to do. LOL.

In all seriousness though, my Muggy is getting to be a PITA. It is definitely not on par with the real truggies, so I'm ready to move to a new project.

[BrianG]

I know someone who will be sleeping on the couch (or doghouse lol) if that someone's wife finds out. Hmmm, I wonder how much it would be worth to him for us not to tell her? :017:

[AAngel]

Oh, now that's not right.

[BrianG]

lol. :) Not right for you, fine for me. :)

[Serum]

Perhaps we can actually gain a nice truck in our collection with this knowledge Brian!

All we will tell our Girls is our little excuse...; 'we got it from some rich bloke who had enough of all his vehicles...'

[Shark413]

Well took the Evo out to the track this weekend and it was fantastic... There were several nitro T-Maxx/Revo's out there and they got smoked. The HV 4.5 is so much faster than the HV 6.5. The only cars that gave me a run for my money were the big block 1/8 scale nitro truggies. Was on my third set of batteries when diasater struck. I just cleared a double double and then nothing, the motor just spun but no forward motion. OK, so the pinion came loose, no biggie. NOT... the shaft actually snapped off.. Don't know if it was a defect, too much power (upgraded from a HV 6.5 to a HV 4.5) or slipper was too tight or what. Sending it back to Novak for service. I Had to spend the rest of the day driving boring nitro cars...

http://i142.photobucket.com/albums/r115/shark413/broken.jpg

[AAngel]

That looks like a 1/8" shaft. If it is, it's not surprising and it's why most of us run motors with 5mm shafts. Novak should replace that.

I've been thinking hard about doing this Revo conversion, but after having thought about it; I've decided not to do it. I found out today that my Compro is still in limbo and I'm anticipating the esc needing to go back to MGM and once that happens, there's no telling how long it will be before I'm running it. My only choice at this point will be to buy a new esc, if I want to get up and running. After all of this waiting, the excitement and anticipation has worn off and my Muggy is just going to sit. I know that all of this electric conversion stuff is really just experimental, but the buying something and having to hope that it will work has taken its tole. My buddy at my LHS called me today to let me know that he got in a T-Rex450SE Version 2. That's going to cost me a lot less than converting a Revo and I KNOW that it will work and if something breaks or doesn't work right, all it's going to take is a five minute ride to remedy the situation.

I'm sure that I will come back to the world of large scale electric cars/trucks, but I need a break.

[Shark413]

Ok, a new rotor is on the way. I have never taken a brushless motor apart so is there anything special to look out for? All I need to do is remove the endbell, replace the rotor and reinstall the endbell right?

[Serum]

Knowing Novak they will include a detailed description on how to replace the shaft.

Mind you; these screws are non metric... (most likely not a problem)

[AAngel]

Yeah, it is pretty simple. Just don't drop the new rotor!! LOL. It's what I did the first time around.