View Full Version : My e-revo brushless edition build

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05.15.2009, 09:40 AM
There are too many rules governing the kiddie forum so I was asked to post this here. So here it is. Hope you enjoy.


First thing I did before even trying it was to take the TQ transmitter and receiver and install that in my son's Mini T. Then I installed my DX3R receiver, an ACE single servo, Proline steering arm and EC3 connectors. I also made a custom antenna tube.

The pics:
http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w202/mistercrash1964/ERevo/th_box1.jpg (http://s177.photobucket.com/albums/w202/mistercrash1964/ERevo/?action=view&current=box1.jpg) http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w202/mistercrash1964/ERevo/th_box2.jpg (http://s177.photobucket.com/albums/w202/mistercrash1964/ERevo/?action=view&current=box2.jpg) http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w202/mistercrash1964/ERevo/th_gabriel_erbe1.jpg (http://s177.photobucket.com/albums/w202/mistercrash1964/ERevo/?action=view&current=gabriel_erbe1.jpg)

And after it's first run on the street and grass.

http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w202/mistercrash1964/ERevo/th_erbe1.jpg (http://s177.photobucket.com/albums/w202/mistercrash1964/ERevo/?action=view&current=erbe1.jpg)

Here's my ERBE 8 hours after I got it. I just can never leave well enough alone.

http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w202/mistercrash1964/ERevo/th_in_pieces1.jpg (http://s177.photobucket.com/albums/w202/mistercrash1964/ERevo/?action=view&current=in_pieces1.jpg)

But I guess it's good to check everything out because after only one 12 minute run, one of my diffs, the front one sprung a leak. And there were a couple of screws that were stripped with the plastic of the chassis melted on the threads.

http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w202/mistercrash1964/ERevo/th_oily_diff.jpg (http://s177.photobucket.com/albums/w202/mistercrash1964/ERevo/?action=view&current=oily_diff.jpg) http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w202/mistercrash1964/ERevo/th_stripped_screws1.jpg (http://s177.photobucket.com/albums/w202/mistercrash1964/ERevo/?action=view&current=stripped_screws1.jpg)

05.15.2009, 09:41 AM

Something I did while the chassis and rockers are taking a bath in black RIT dye. I am using two stock aluminum motor plates together. I painted them black with high temp paint I have that has to be cooked at 650 degrees for an hour. Though stuff. I made a carbon fiber motor plate before this and I used it for a while but I was having some temp issues with the motor. My guess is that the aluminum motor plate will help dissipate heat better than carbon fiber.

http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w202/mistercrash1964/ERevo/Motor%20plate/th_double_alu_motor_plate2.jpg (http://s177.photobucket.com/albums/w202/mistercrash1964/ERevo/Motor%20plate/?action=view&current=double_alu_motor_plate2.jpg) http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w202/mistercrash1964/ERevo/Motor%20plate/th_double_alu_motor_plate1.jpg (http://s177.photobucket.com/albums/w202/mistercrash1964/ERevo/Motor%20plate/?action=view&current=double_alu_motor_plate1.jpg)

Since this extra motor plate sets the motor back 3 mm I had to trim the rear shock tower for the back of the motor.

http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w202/mistercrash1964/ERevo/Motor%20plate/th_motor_plate7.jpg (http://s177.photobucket.com/albums/w202/mistercrash1964/ERevo/Motor%20plate/?action=view&current=motor_plate7.jpg)

I also had to sand down the fins behind the slipper back plate. The slipper disk pictured here is the carbon fiber one I don’t use anymore.

http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w202/mistercrash1964/ERevo/Motor%20plate/th_motor_plate6.jpg (http://s177.photobucket.com/albums/w202/mistercrash1964/ERevo/Motor%20plate/?action=view&current=motor_plate6.jpg)

And this is an idea I had about the base of the motor mount. The top of the motor mount is held firmly in place by the screw that holds the gear mesh, but the base just pivots and floats on the plastic motor mount pivot block. I wanted the base of the motor mount to be held in place has firmly has the top when the gear mesh is set. Here's what I did and that I'm going to try out.

On the left is the plastic motor mount pivot block I modified. I cut off the little nob and it is now a little shorter than the stock one on the right. I also made M4 X .7 threads in the hole so that the screws would go in easily.

http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w202/mistercrash1964/ERevo/Motor%20plate/th_pivot1.jpg (http://s177.photobucket.com/albums/w202/mistercrash1964/ERevo/Motor%20plate/?action=view&current=pivot1.jpg)

An M4 X 10 mm screw with a large washer on the back to hold the pivot block firmly on the motor mount.

http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w202/mistercrash1964/ERevo/Motor%20plate/th_pivot2.jpg (http://s177.photobucket.com/albums/w202/mistercrash1964/ERevo/Motor%20plate/?action=view&current=pivot2.jpg)

The plastic motor mount pivot block has now two screws, the back one to hold it firmly on the motor mount and the front one to pull the motor mount and pivot block against the motor plate and hold it firmly.

http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w202/mistercrash1964/ERevo/Motor%20plate/th_pivot3.jpg (http://s177.photobucket.com/albums/w202/mistercrash1964/ERevo/Motor%20plate/?action=view&current=pivot3.jpg)

Now when I want to set the gear mesh, I have two screw to loosen, the top and the bottom one. Not a problem at all has I have to loosen the bottom screw only an eight of a turn to have the motor pivot.

05.15.2009, 09:42 AM

The power of the MMM on 6S apparently shredded a few of the stock diffs so I decided to follow Lincpimp’s lead on his project of putting LST diffs in a Revo.

The output shafts are Revo stub axles with the threaded part cut off .

http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w202/mistercrash1964/ERevo/LST2%20diff/th_4cbf78b3.jpg (http://s177.photobucket.com/albums/w202/mistercrash1964/ERevo/LST2%20diff/?action=view&current=4cbf78b3.jpg) http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w202/mistercrash1964/ERevo/LST2%20diff/th_893fa0f6.jpg (http://s177.photobucket.com/albums/w202/mistercrash1964/ERevo/LST2%20diff/?action=view&current=893fa0f6.jpg)

I removed as much material from the outside of the LST2 diff casings as I could so that they would fit inside the Revo bulkheads. Then I painted them black to make them look good.

http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w202/mistercrash1964/ERevo/LST2%20diff/th_LST2_diff_case2.jpg (http://s177.photobucket.com/albums/w202/mistercrash1964/ERevo/LST2%20diff/?action=view&current=LST2_diff_case2.jpg) http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w202/mistercrash1964/ERevo/LST2%20diff/th_LST2_diff_case1.jpg (http://s177.photobucket.com/albums/w202/mistercrash1964/ERevo/LST2%20diff/?action=view&current=LST2_diff_case1.jpg)

I trimmed the stops under the chassis for the diffs to fit.

http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w202/mistercrash1964/ERevo/LST2%20diff/th_chassis_trim_rear1.jpg (http://s177.photobucket.com/albums/w202/mistercrash1964/ERevo/LST2%20diff/?action=view&current=chassis_trim_rear1.jpg) http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w202/mistercrash1964/ERevo/LST2%20diff/th_chassis_trim_front1.jpg (http://s177.photobucket.com/albums/w202/mistercrash1964/ERevo/LST2%20diff/?action=view&current=chassis_trim_front1.jpg)

05.15.2009, 09:43 AM
I will use Traxxas Summit shafts all around this ERBE. I also want them for the center shafts. I put two set screws on either end of each shafts with blue Locktite.

http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w202/mistercrash1964/ERevo/LST2%20diff/th_c76c24d1.jpg (http://s177.photobucket.com/albums/w202/mistercrash1964/ERevo/LST2%20diff/?action=view&current=c76c24d1.jpg) http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w202/mistercrash1964/ERevo/LST2%20diff/th_6e1fb542.jpg (http://s177.photobucket.com/albums/w202/mistercrash1964/ERevo/LST2%20diff/?action=view&current=6e1fb542.jpg) http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w202/mistercrash1964/ERevo/LST2%20diff/th_07c3c6aa.jpg (http://s177.photobucket.com/albums/w202/mistercrash1964/ERevo/LST2%20diff/?action=view&current=07c3c6aa.jpg) http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w202/mistercrash1964/ERevo/LST2%20diff/th_8152f7f2.jpg (http://s177.photobucket.com/albums/w202/mistercrash1964/ERevo/LST2%20diff/?action=view&current=8152f7f2.jpg) http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w202/mistercrash1964/ERevo/th_summit_center_shafts1.jpg (http://s177.photobucket.com/albums/w202/mistercrash1964/ERevo/?action=view&current=summit_center_shafts1.jpg)

05.15.2009, 09:43 AM

The 8th scale center diff in a Revo all started with a guy naming himself ‘’CowboyRay’’. He made an 8th scale CD using a Thunder Tiger TTR S3 buggy center differential. His design required extensive machining to be done and was financially out of reach of many. Some people tried to take over this design and tried to market this CD but the financial aspect was a problem again. It was just very expensive to produce and the sale price was high. Cowboy made and sold a few hundreds of them and then stopped when Traxxas came out with their own version of a center differential with rear brake. Then I saw on the RC Monster forum a guy named ‘’sjcrss’’ made an 8th scale center differential with parts of an Ofna Hyper 7 buggy CD that did not require the help of a machinist or machining equipment. Having at least a drill press or access to one helps a lot though. The hardest part of making this CD is definitely making M3X.5 threads in hardened steel.
So I went with sjcrss’ idea of using the hardened steel spur gear as the diff cap and CowboyRay’s idea of using Thunder Tiger parts. I modified the ERBE’s output gear TRA3984X and I modified these two parts, TRA5415 and TRA5416. They are the output shafts for the Revo 3.3 center diff.

The Thunder Tiger spur gear PD1893

http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w202/mistercrash1964/ERevo/Thunder%20Tiger%20S3%20CD/th_tt_s3_cd2.jpg (http://s177.photobucket.com/albums/w202/mistercrash1964/ERevo/Thunder%20Tiger%20S3%20CD/?action=view&current=tt_s3_cd2.jpg) http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w202/mistercrash1964/ERevo/Thunder%20Tiger%20S3%20CD/th_tt_s3_cd3.jpg (http://s177.photobucket.com/albums/w202/mistercrash1964/ERevo/Thunder%20Tiger%20S3%20CD/?action=view&current=tt_s3_cd3.jpg) http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w202/mistercrash1964/ERevo/Thunder%20Tiger%20S3%20CD/th_tt_s3_cd4.jpg (http://s177.photobucket.com/albums/w202/mistercrash1964/ERevo/Thunder%20Tiger%20S3%20CD/?action=view&current=tt_s3_cd4.jpg) http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w202/mistercrash1964/ERevo/Thunder%20Tiger%20S3%20CD/th_tt_s3_cd5.jpg (http://s177.photobucket.com/albums/w202/mistercrash1964/ERevo/Thunder%20Tiger%20S3%20CD/?action=view&current=tt_s3_cd5.jpg) http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w202/mistercrash1964/ERevo/Thunder%20Tiger%20S3%20CD/th_tt_s3_cd6.jpg (http://s177.photobucket.com/albums/w202/mistercrash1964/ERevo/Thunder%20Tiger%20S3%20CD/?action=view&current=tt_s3_cd6.jpg) http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w202/mistercrash1964/eight%20scale%20center%20diff/th_d3e29377.jpg (http://s177.photobucket.com/albums/w202/mistercrash1964/eight%20scale%20center%20diff/?action=view&current=d3e29377.jpg)

05.15.2009, 09:44 AM
The Traxxas TRA3984X output gear
http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w202/mistercrash1964/ERevo/Thunder%20Tiger%20S3%20CD/th_tra3984x_gear3.jpg (http://s177.photobucket.com/albums/w202/mistercrash1964/ERevo/Thunder%20Tiger%20S3%20CD/?action=view&current=tra3984x_gear3.jpg) http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w202/mistercrash1964/ERevo/Thunder%20Tiger%20S3%20CD/th_tra3984x_gear2.jpg (http://s177.photobucket.com/albums/w202/mistercrash1964/ERevo/Thunder%20Tiger%20S3%20CD/?action=view&current=tra3984x_gear2.jpg) http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w202/mistercrash1964/ERevo/Thunder%20Tiger%20S3%20CD/th_tra3984x_gear1.jpg (http://s177.photobucket.com/albums/w202/mistercrash1964/ERevo/Thunder%20Tiger%20S3%20CD/?action=view&current=tra3984x_gear1.jpg)

The Traxxas TRA5415 and TRA5416 output shafts

http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w202/mistercrash1964/ERevo/Thunder%20Tiger%20S3%20CD/th_tt_s3_cd6.jpg (http://s177.photobucket.com/albums/w202/mistercrash1964/ERevo/Thunder%20Tiger%20S3%20CD/?action=view&current=tt_s3_cd6.jpg)

The Thuder tiger diff parts, diff case PD1897, diff gear set PD1895

http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w202/mistercrash1964/ERevo/Thunder%20Tiger%20S3%20CD/th_tt_s3_cd1.jpg (http://s177.photobucket.com/albums/w202/mistercrash1964/ERevo/Thunder%20Tiger%20S3%20CD/?action=view&current=tt_s3_cd1.jpg)

The modification done to the Thunder Tiger PD1897 diff case

http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w202/mistercrash1964/eight%20scale%20center%20diff/th_aacc8f9c.jpg (http://s177.photobucket.com/albums/w202/mistercrash1964/eight%20scale%20center%20diff/?action=view&current=aacc8f9c.jpg) http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w202/mistercrash1964/eight%20scale%20center%20diff/th_4a80c664.jpg (http://s177.photobucket.com/albums/w202/mistercrash1964/eight%20scale%20center%20diff/?action=view&current=4a80c664.jpg)

The final product

http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w202/mistercrash1964/ERevo/Thunder%20Tiger%20S3%20CD/th_tt_s3_cd8.jpg (http://s177.photobucket.com/albums/w202/mistercrash1964/ERevo/Thunder%20Tiger%20S3%20CD/?action=view&current=tt_s3_cd8.jpg) http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w202/mistercrash1964/ERevo/Thunder%20Tiger%20S3%20CD/th_tt_s3_cd7.jpg (http://s177.photobucket.com/albums/w202/mistercrash1964/ERevo/Thunder%20Tiger%20S3%20CD/?action=view&current=tt_s3_cd7.jpg)

05.15.2009, 09:45 AM

The Ofna adapters are tough and cheap. The Traxxas adapters are very similar except for the splines. Both of them have slop that gets worse with time because they get grinded by the threads of the stub axles. There are other systems out there that require the use of 8 mm stub axles or stub axles with no threads but they end up being expensive, although they are very good. Also there are cheaper styles that work great but I started with Ofna before any other systems came out and with the modifications I did, they have been working so well that I don’t see why I should change anything.


http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w202/mistercrash1964/No%20slop%20Ofna%20adapters/th_af83691e.jpg (http://s177.photobucket.com/albums/w202/mistercrash1964/No%20slop%20Ofna%20adapters/?action=view&current=af83691e.jpg) http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w202/mistercrash1964/No%20slop%20Ofna%20adapters/th_e1fe78e2.jpg (http://s177.photobucket.com/albums/w202/mistercrash1964/No%20slop%20Ofna%20adapters/?action=view&current=e1fe78e2.jpg) http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w202/mistercrash1964/No%20slop%20Ofna%20adapters/th_4a53b28e.jpg (http://s177.photobucket.com/albums/w202/mistercrash1964/No%20slop%20Ofna%20adapters/?action=view&current=4a53b28e.jpg) http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w202/mistercrash1964/No%20slop%20Ofna%20adapters/th_9c21f6be.jpg (http://s177.photobucket.com/albums/w202/mistercrash1964/No%20slop%20Ofna%20adapters/?action=view&current=9c21f6be.jpg) http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w202/mistercrash1964/No%20slop%20Ofna%20adapters/th_681c3898.jpg (http://s177.photobucket.com/albums/w202/mistercrash1964/No%20slop%20Ofna%20adapters/?action=view&current=681c3898.jpg) http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w202/mistercrash1964/No%20slop%20Ofna%20adapters/th_b3ac61d9.jpg (http://s177.photobucket.com/albums/w202/mistercrash1964/No%20slop%20Ofna%20adapters/?action=view&current=b3ac61d9.jpg) http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w202/mistercrash1964/No%20slop%20Ofna%20adapters/th_4cb7f27a.jpg (http://s177.photobucket.com/albums/w202/mistercrash1964/No%20slop%20Ofna%20adapters/?action=view&current=4cb7f27a.jpg)
http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w202/mistercrash1964/No%20slop%20Ofna%20adapters/th_4d8c4878.jpg (http://s177.photobucket.com/albums/w202/mistercrash1964/No%20slop%20Ofna%20adapters/?action=view&current=4d8c4878.jpg) http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w202/mistercrash1964/No%20slop%20Ofna%20adapters/th_e0669b0e.jpg (http://s177.photobucket.com/albums/w202/mistercrash1964/No%20slop%20Ofna%20adapters/?action=view&current=e0669b0e.jpg) http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w202/mistercrash1964/No%20slop%20Ofna%20adapters/th_1f0af83a.jpg (http://s177.photobucket.com/albums/w202/mistercrash1964/No%20slop%20Ofna%20adapters/?action=view&current=1f0af83a.jpg)

05.15.2009, 09:45 AM
http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w202/mistercrash1964/No%20slop%20Ofna%20adapters/th_4d55b15f.jpg (http://s177.photobucket.com/albums/w202/mistercrash1964/No%20slop%20Ofna%20adapters/?action=view&current=4d55b15f.jpg) http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w202/mistercrash1964/No%20slop%20Ofna%20adapters/th_b4274775.jpg (http://s177.photobucket.com/albums/w202/mistercrash1964/No%20slop%20Ofna%20adapters/?action=view&current=b4274775.jpg)

05.15.2009, 09:46 AM

Here's a couple things I do to stop the need for Locktite. Some slots Dremeled in the nuts, they bite in the wheel's plastic and they don't come of by themselves and a groove around the adapter for an O ring to keep the set screw from backing out. This has been race and bash tested for a long time. It works.

http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w202/mistercrash1964/No%20slop%20Ofna%20adapters/Locking%20adapter%20nut/th_9d6f8dcf.jpg (http://s177.photobucket.com/albums/w202/mistercrash1964/No%20slop%20Ofna%20adapters/Locking%20adapter%20nut/?action=view&current=9d6f8dcf.jpg)

I mount the adapter on a spare stub axle so that I can chuck it in the drill press. I make it turn at medium speed and with a cut off wheel on my Dremel, I can make a clean groove for the O ring.

http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w202/mistercrash1964/No%20slop%20Ofna%20adapters/O%20ring%20mod/th_4597e53f.jpg (http://s177.photobucket.com/albums/w202/mistercrash1964/No%20slop%20Ofna%20adapters/O%20ring%20mod/?action=view&current=4597e53f.jpg) http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w202/mistercrash1964/No%20slop%20Ofna%20adapters/O%20ring%20mod/th_2d8995f3.jpg (http://s177.photobucket.com/albums/w202/mistercrash1964/No%20slop%20Ofna%20adapters/O%20ring%20mod/?action=view&current=2d8995f3.jpg) http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w202/mistercrash1964/No%20slop%20Ofna%20adapters/O%20ring%20mod/th_8ef3dc35.jpg (http://s177.photobucket.com/albums/w202/mistercrash1964/No%20slop%20Ofna%20adapters/O%20ring%20mod/?action=view&current=8ef3dc35.jpg)

05.15.2009, 09:46 AM

I made a simple tool to screw in or out the little tubes I made. It works great and doesn't damage the part like a flat head screw driver can.

http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w202/mistercrash1964/No%20slop%20Ofna%20adapters/Special%20tool/th_4eb56556.jpg (http://s177.photobucket.com/albums/w202/mistercrash1964/No%20slop%20Ofna%20adapters/Special%20tool/?action=view&current=4eb56556.jpg) http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w202/mistercrash1964/No%20slop%20Ofna%20adapters/Special%20tool/th_0533b36a.jpg (http://s177.photobucket.com/albums/w202/mistercrash1964/No%20slop%20Ofna%20adapters/Special%20tool/?action=view&current=0533b36a.jpg) http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w202/mistercrash1964/No%20slop%20Ofna%20adapters/Special%20tool/th_057a0396.jpg (http://s177.photobucket.com/albums/w202/mistercrash1964/No%20slop%20Ofna%20adapters/Special%20tool/?action=view&current=057a0396.jpg) http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w202/mistercrash1964/No%20slop%20Ofna%20adapters/Special%20tool/th_0b1df0fa.jpg (http://s177.photobucket.com/albums/w202/mistercrash1964/No%20slop%20Ofna%20adapters/Special%20tool/?action=view&current=0b1df0fa.jpg) http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w202/mistercrash1964/No%20slop%20Ofna%20adapters/Special%20tool/th_61d05478.jpg (http://s177.photobucket.com/albums/w202/mistercrash1964/No%20slop%20Ofna%20adapters/Special%20tool/?action=view&current=61d05478.jpg) http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w202/mistercrash1964/No%20slop%20Ofna%20adapters/Special%20tool/th_0162467c.jpg (http://s177.photobucket.com/albums/w202/mistercrash1964/No%20slop%20Ofna%20adapters/Special%20tool/?action=view&current=0162467c.jpg)

05.15.2009, 09:47 AM

Nitro vehicles use aluminum clutch shoes inside hardened steel clutch bells so there's the hardened steel slipper disk already on the ERBE, why not use an aluminum slipper pad. So that's the route I decided to take. I have been extensively testing this slipper for the past month and it is holding up to just about any kind of abuse I give it. I tried a carbon fiber slipper disk before that and it held up for a while but failed once it got the abuse of racing at the track.

http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w202/mistercrash1964/ERevo/Slipper%20clutch/th_alu_slipper_pad1.jpg (http://s177.photobucket.com/albums/w202/mistercrash1964/ERevo/Slipper%20clutch/?action=view&current=alu_slipper_pad1.jpg)

This is how the disk looks after more than 25 cycles of 4, 5 and 6S runs at the track and bashing. The middle disk is the test one, the left one is new and to the right is the slipper steel plate.

http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w202/mistercrash1964/ERevo/Slipper%20clutch/th_alu_slipper_pad2.jpg (http://s177.photobucket.com/albums/w202/mistercrash1964/ERevo/Slipper%20clutch/?action=view&current=alu_slipper_pad2.jpg)

Here are the measurements to make one out of a piece of aluminum anywhere between 2 and 3 mm thick. I tried to be as accurate as I could with the measurements.

http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w202/mistercrash1964/ERevo/Slipper%20clutch/th_slipper_pad_dimension1.jpg (http://s177.photobucket.com/albums/w202/mistercrash1964/ERevo/Slipper%20clutch/?action=view&current=slipper_pad_dimension1.jpg)


I have a tendency to over tighten screws sometimes. Especially with the plastic bulkheads. I feel these need to be sitting as tight as possible against the chassis but I often stripped the threads in the plastic trying to do so. I installed some Dubro brass inserts to deal with this problem. Now I can torque those screws very tight and I believe that this helps make the bulkheads sit very snuggly against the chassis adding to the overall structural strength.
I used the 4-40 inserts for the screws that go through the shock towers and 6-32 inserts for the rest on the screws.

http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w202/mistercrash1964/ERevo/LST2%20diff/th_244d5bf2.jpg (http://s177.photobucket.com/albums/w202/mistercrash1964/ERevo/LST2%20diff/?action=view&current=244d5bf2.jpg)


I don't know about you but when I want to take the rockers arms and this happens, it annoys me.

http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w202/mistercrash1964/ERevo/th_rocker_post1.jpg (http://s177.photobucket.com/albums/w202/mistercrash1964/ERevo/?action=view&current=rocker_post1.jpg)

The P2 progressive rockers will be used but this is a small modification I like to do to the rocker posts. I take out the M4 button head screw, I make sure the rocker post is firmly screwed to the bulkhead. Then I take an M4X.7X16 mm set screw and screw it firmly in the rocker post with red Locktite. I then use an M4 Nylok nut to secure the rockers. Whenever I need to take a rocker out, the post stays in the bulkhead.

http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w202/mistercrash1964/Rocker%20posts/th_rocker_post1.jpg (http://s177.photobucket.com/albums/w202/mistercrash1964/Rocker%20posts/?action=view&current=rocker_post1.jpg) http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w202/mistercrash1964/Rocker%20posts/th_rocker_post2.jpg (http://s177.photobucket.com/albums/w202/mistercrash1964/Rocker%20posts/?action=view&current=rocker_post2.jpg)


There’s not much to say about the rear body post but I just wanted to show what I did to it. The body post used on the ERBE is the same as the 3.3 Revo with Easy Start so it has this orifice in it for the Easy Start plug. It is not used for the ERBE so I sanded it off with a sanding drum.

http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w202/mistercrash1964/ERevo/Hop%20ups/th_ef1a65e8.jpg (http://s177.photobucket.com/albums/w202/mistercrash1964/ERevo/Hop%20ups/?action=view&current=ef1a65e8.jpg)


This is something I always do with the axle carriers. I use a longer screw and a lock nut.

http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w202/mistercrash1964/ERevo/th_axle_carriers1.jpg (http://s177.photobucket.com/albums/w202/mistercrash1964/ERevo/?action=view&current=axle_carriers1.jpg)

05.15.2009, 09:48 AM

The full ''Steve Slayden Steering Mod'' ( http://www.traxxas.com/support/kb_search.php?action=artikel&cat=143&id=472&artlang=en )was done on this ERBE and also the front bulkheads have been modified to accept 5 caster clips. If you shave some material from the upper A arms, you can even go with 6 caster clips.

http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w202/mistercrash1964/ERevo/th_caster_clips1.jpg (http://s177.photobucket.com/albums/w202/mistercrash1964/ERevo/?action=view&current=caster_clips1.jpg)


I read a few posts about people that do not use the on/off switch as it becomes contaminated with dirt and dust and quickly becomes useless. I'm trying this, I hope it works because I like to have the switch as a way to quickly turn off the MMM until I can take the truck back to my pit table to disconnect the batteries. I will be racing this truck so I can't loose time screwing around in the pits to disconnect my batteries. When my race is over, I want to just flick the switch off and take my turn marshalling on the track. After I'm done marshalling, I can take back the truck to my pit table and disconnect the batteries. I also made a little thing that pivots to keep the switch from going to the OFF position by itself. A little trick from Joel ‘’Magic’’ Johnson back in the early 90s. The green and red squares are just sticker on a piece of scrap Lexan trimmed to fit the top of the switch. It’s a visual aid, green means go, red means no go.

http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w202/mistercrash1964/ERevo/Switch/th_switch1.jpg (http://s177.photobucket.com/albums/w202/mistercrash1964/ERevo/Switch/?action=view&current=switch1.jpg) http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w202/mistercrash1964/ERevo/Switch/th_switch2.jpg (http://s177.photobucket.com/albums/w202/mistercrash1964/ERevo/Switch/?action=view&current=switch2.jpg) http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w202/mistercrash1964/ERevo/Switch/th_switch3.jpg (http://s177.photobucket.com/albums/w202/mistercrash1964/ERevo/Switch/?action=view&current=switch3.jpg) http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w202/mistercrash1964/ERevo/Switch/th_switch4.jpg (http://s177.photobucket.com/albums/w202/mistercrash1964/ERevo/Switch/?action=view&current=switch4.jpg) http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w202/mistercrash1964/ERevo/Switch/th_switch5.jpg (http://s177.photobucket.com/albums/w202/mistercrash1964/ERevo/Switch/?action=view&current=switch5.jpg) http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w202/mistercrash1964/ERevo/Switch/th_switch6.jpg (http://s177.photobucket.com/albums/w202/mistercrash1964/ERevo/Switch/?action=view&current=switch6.jpg)


The front wheels throw a lot of things to the back of the truck while driving it. Dirt, sand, mud, rocks, dog poo. To keep the rear shafts and suspension cleaner and protect the shaft's dust boots, I make mud flaps from scrap Lexan pieces or thick rubber. In this case, the are rubber held with zip ties. This really works. Also no one noticed but I always switch my rear shafts around so that the dust boots are close to the center. The dust boot trick is from ''WUDS'' on Revo-World.com. Thanks WUDS.

http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w202/mistercrash1964/ERevo/Mud%20flaps/th_mud_flap2.jpg (http://s177.photobucket.com/albums/w202/mistercrash1964/ERevo/Mud%20flaps/?action=view&current=mud_flap2.jpg) http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w202/mistercrash1964/ERevo/Mud%20flaps/th_mud_flap1.jpg (http://s177.photobucket.com/albums/w202/mistercrash1964/ERevo/Mud%20flaps/?action=view&current=mud_flap1.jpg)

05.15.2009, 09:48 AM

I made this carbon fiber shim that goes under the rear shock tower, it raises the shocks just enough so that the springs don’t rub on the chassis at full suspension extension.

http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w202/mistercrash1964/ERevo/Rear%20shock%20tower%20shim/th_shock_tower_shim1.jpg (http://s177.photobucket.com/albums/w202/mistercrash1964/ERevo/Rear%20shock%20tower%20shim/?action=view&current=shock_tower_shim1.jpg) http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w202/mistercrash1964/ERevo/Rear%20shock%20tower%20shim/th_shock_tower_shim2.jpg (http://s177.photobucket.com/albums/w202/mistercrash1964/ERevo/Rear%20shock%20tower%20shim/?action=view&current=shock_tower_shim2.jpg)


I made a rear skid plate protector much like the one I made long ago for my 3.3 Revo. It's just a piece of 1/16'' thick steel. It wraps around the rear portion of the skid plate and is secured on the middle skid plate with a screw and nut for added strength.

http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w202/mistercrash1964/ERevo/Rear%20skid%20plate/th_rear_skid_plate3.jpg (http://s177.photobucket.com/albums/w202/mistercrash1964/ERevo/Rear%20skid%20plate/?action=view&current=rear_skid_plate3.jpg) http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w202/mistercrash1964/ERevo/Rear%20skid%20plate/th_rear_skid_plate4.jpg (http://s177.photobucket.com/albums/w202/mistercrash1964/ERevo/Rear%20skid%20plate/?action=view&current=rear_skid_plate4.jpg)


I’ve SEEN some people do this and thought it looked good. I painted the motor mount black and sanded the fins.

http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w202/mistercrash1964/ERevo/th_motor_heatsink1.jpg (http://s177.photobucket.com/albums/w202/mistercrash1964/ERevo/?action=view&current=motor_heatsink1.jpg)


The MC Carbon Racing carbon fiber plate that covers the hole in the chassis left by the single steering conversion is where I decided to mount my PT for racing. I made a big notch in the cover plate because the AMB Personal Transponder does not always transmit well through carbon fiber.

http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w202/mistercrash1964/ERevo/Transponder/th_transponder1.jpg (http://s177.photobucket.com/albums/w202/mistercrash1964/ERevo/Transponder/?action=view&current=transponder1.jpg)

Here is the AMB PT mounted in the truck with aluminum screws and nylon nuts and from underneath, the notch lets the PT transmit clearly to the AMB track loop.

http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w202/mistercrash1964/ERevo/Transponder/th_transponder2.jpg (http://s177.photobucket.com/albums/w202/mistercrash1964/ERevo/Transponder/?action=view&current=transponder2.jpg) http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w202/mistercrash1964/ERevo/Transponder/th_transponder3.jpg (http://s177.photobucket.com/albums/w202/mistercrash1964/ERevo/Transponder/?action=view&current=transponder3.jpg)

05.15.2009, 09:49 AM
Since I will never use this ERBE in water, I decided to modify the receiver box to help get more room to pivot the motor to change the pinion or spur without removing it. I sanded off the portion of the receiver box where the wires go in.

http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w202/mistercrash1964/ERevo/Receiver%20box/th_receiver_box1.jpg (http://s177.photobucket.com/albums/w202/mistercrash1964/ERevo/Receiver%20box/?action=view&current=receiver_box1.jpg)

I am now left with two large openings that I will block with a piece of closed cell foam glued to the box with CA glue.

http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w202/mistercrash1964/ERevo/Receiver%20box/th_receiver_box2.jpg (http://s177.photobucket.com/albums/w202/mistercrash1964/ERevo/Receiver%20box/?action=view&current=receiver_box2.jpg)

Here is the foam glued to the box to block those openings.

http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w202/mistercrash1964/ERevo/Receiver%20box/th_receiver_box3.jpg (http://s177.photobucket.com/albums/w202/mistercrash1964/ERevo/Receiver%20box/?action=view&current=receiver_box3.jpg)

A tiny hole in the foam for the receiver antenna to go through.

http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w202/mistercrash1964/ERevo/Receiver%20box/th_receiver_box4.jpg (http://s177.photobucket.com/albums/w202/mistercrash1964/ERevo/Receiver%20box/?action=view&current=receiver_box4.jpg)

And a small slot for the wires to go in the box. The foam wraps around the wires and will keep dirt and dust from coming inside the box. Here is just an extension wire to demonstrate.

http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w202/mistercrash1964/ERevo/Receiver%20box/th_receiver_box5.jpg (http://s177.photobucket.com/albums/w202/mistercrash1964/ERevo/Receiver%20box/?action=view&current=receiver_box5.jpg)

I can now pivot the motor far enough to change my pinion or spur gear without removing the motor completely.

http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w202/mistercrash1964/ERevo/Receiver%20box/th_receiver_box6.jpg (http://s177.photobucket.com/albums/w202/mistercrash1964/ERevo/Receiver%20box/?action=view&current=receiver_box6.jpg)



I am using the Traxxas aluminum red pushrods and Traxxas aluminum red turnbuckles. I would rather have them black but the black pushrods are not out yet. I changed to Traxxas red pushrod spacers since the ERBE came with blue ones. I also like to use the TRA5348 turnbuckle rod ends on all the turnbuckles and the pushrods. They are the biggest and bulkiest rod ends used on the Revos. They are usually used only on the rear turnbuckles but I like to use them everywhere. You can recognize them by the small ring around the base of the ball end.

http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w202/mistercrash1964/ERevo/Hop%20ups/th_22006ee9.jpg (http://s177.photobucket.com/albums/w202/mistercrash1964/ERevo/Hop%20ups/?action=view&current=22006ee9.jpg) http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w202/mistercrash1964/ERevo/Hop%20ups/th_6910438d.jpg (http://s177.photobucket.com/albums/w202/mistercrash1964/ERevo/Hop%20ups/?action=view&current=6910438d.jpg) http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w202/mistercrash1964/th_798e8209.jpg (http://s177.photobucket.com/albums/w202/mistercrash1964/?action=view&current=798e8209.jpg)


Variable damping #3 shock pistons will be used on this ERBE, the rebound holes have been enlarged to 2 mm. I like a fast rebound. I will use black rear springs and gold front springs.

http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w202/mistercrash1964/ERevo/Hop%20ups/th_3e538967.jpg (http://s177.photobucket.com/albums/w202/mistercrash1964/ERevo/Hop%20ups/?action=view&current=3e538967.jpg)

05.15.2009, 09:50 AM

A few carbon fiber parts will be used also, a rear bulkhead tie bar, a rear wing tie bar and maybe a chassis cover plate for the hole left by the second servo that won't be used.

http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w202/mistercrash1964/ERevo/Hop%20ups/th_b92a28b0.jpg (http://s177.photobucket.com/albums/w202/mistercrash1964/ERevo/Hop%20ups/?action=view&current=b92a28b0.jpg)


Aluminum pivot ball caps, they are nice with an O ring to keep them from backing out. They have been working great so far.

http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w202/mistercrash1964/ERevo/Hop%20ups/th_gh_pivot_ball_caps1.jpg (http://s177.photobucket.com/albums/w202/mistercrash1964/ERevo/Hop%20ups/?action=view&current=gh_pivot_ball_caps1.jpg) http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w202/mistercrash1964/ERevo/Hop%20ups/th_gh_pivot_ball_caps2.jpg (http://s177.photobucket.com/albums/w202/mistercrash1964/ERevo/Hop%20ups/?action=view&current=gh_pivot_ball_caps2.jpg) http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w202/mistercrash1964/ERevo/Hop%20ups/th_gh_pivot_ball_caps4.jpg (http://s177.photobucket.com/albums/w202/mistercrash1964/ERevo/Hop%20ups/?action=view&current=gh_pivot_ball_caps4.jpg)


I am using the Tekno sway bar in front and the Traxxas sway bar in the rear. I straightened the black Tekno sway bar to make a ‘’U’’ shape out of it and I use the black Traxxas sway bar for the rear.

http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w202/mistercrash1964/ERevo/sway%20bars/th_swaybars_front4.jpg (http://s177.photobucket.com/albums/w202/mistercrash1964/ERevo/sway%20bars/?action=view&current=swaybars_front4.jpg) http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w202/mistercrash1964/ERevo/sway%20bars/th_swaybars_front5.jpg (http://s177.photobucket.com/albums/w202/mistercrash1964/ERevo/sway%20bars/?action=view&current=swaybars_front5.jpg) http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w202/mistercrash1964/ERevo/sway%20bars/th_traxxas_rear1.jpg (http://s177.photobucket.com/albums/w202/mistercrash1964/ERevo/sway%20bars/?action=view&current=traxxas_rear1.jpg) http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w202/mistercrash1964/ERevo/sway%20bars/th_traxxas_rear2.jpg (http://s177.photobucket.com/albums/w202/mistercrash1964/ERevo/sway%20bars/?action=view&current=traxxas_rear2.jpg)


I feel sorry for all the clowns I lured into dark alleys with multi colored marshmallows to take their balloons. I used those clown balloons they use to make balloon puppets to make shock boots out of them for the longest time. I should have used these Jato shock boots from the beginning, they are perfect.

http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w202/mistercrash1964/ERevo/Clown%20shocks/th_jato_shock_boots1.jpg (http://s177.photobucket.com/albums/w202/mistercrash1964/ERevo/Clown%20shocks/?action=view&current=jato_shock_boots1.jpg)

05.15.2009, 09:50 AM


I modified my Spektrum DX3R radio to accept 5 rechargeable AA batteries in order to have 6+ volts.

http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w202/mistercrash1964/Spektrum%20DX3R%20with%205%20cells/th_dx3r_5cell_1.jpg (http://s177.photobucket.com/albums/w202/mistercrash1964/Spektrum%20DX3R%20with%205%20cells/?action=view&current=dx3r_5cell_1.jpg) http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w202/mistercrash1964/Spektrum%20DX3R%20with%205%20cells/th_dx3r_5cell_2.jpg (http://s177.photobucket.com/albums/w202/mistercrash1964/Spektrum%20DX3R%20with%205%20cells/?action=view&current=dx3r_5cell_2.jpg) http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w202/mistercrash1964/Spektrum%20DX3R%20with%205%20cells/th_dx3r_5cell_3.jpg (http://s177.photobucket.com/albums/w202/mistercrash1964/Spektrum%20DX3R%20with%205%20cells/?action=view&current=dx3r_5cell_3.jpg) http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w202/mistercrash1964/Spektrum%20DX3R%20with%205%20cells/th_dx3r_5cell_4.jpg (http://s177.photobucket.com/albums/w202/mistercrash1964/Spektrum%20DX3R%20with%205%20cells/?action=view&current=dx3r_5cell_4.jpg) http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w202/mistercrash1964/Spektrum%20DX3R%20with%205%20cells/th_dx3r_5cell_5.jpg (http://s177.photobucket.com/albums/w202/mistercrash1964/Spektrum%20DX3R%20with%205%20cells/?action=view&current=dx3r_5cell_5.jpg) http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w202/mistercrash1964/th_e0720d0a.jpg (http://s177.photobucket.com/albums/w202/mistercrash1964/?action=view&current=e0720d0a.jpg) http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w202/mistercrash1964/th_8056cbff.jpg (http://s177.photobucket.com/albums/w202/mistercrash1964/?action=view&current=8056cbff.jpg)


I made an ERBE set up sheet using Traxxas' set up sheet for the 3.3. You can download and print the jpg file below on a 8.5 X 14 sheet of paper or PM me your email addy to get the pdf file.

http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w202/mistercrash1964/ERevo/Set%20up%20Sheets/th_erbe_set_up_sheet_blank.jpg (http://s177.photobucket.com/albums/w202/mistercrash1964/ERevo/Set%20up%20Sheets/?action=view&current=erbe_set_up_sheet_blank.jpg)


My parallel harness with the jumper plug, I made a finger loop on the jumper plug to make it easy to pull the plug out. It pull on the plug and not the wire.

http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w202/mistercrash1964/ERevo/Parallel%20harness/th_parallel_harness1.jpg (http://s177.photobucket.com/albums/w202/mistercrash1964/ERevo/Parallel%20harness/?action=view&current=parallel_harness1.jpg) http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w202/mistercrash1964/ERevo/Parallel%20harness/th_parallel_harness2.jpg (http://s177.photobucket.com/albums/w202/mistercrash1964/ERevo/Parallel%20harness/?action=view&current=parallel_harness2.jpg)

05.15.2009, 09:51 AM
4S1P split into 2S1P

I bought those Zippy 5000 mah 30C/40C 4S lipos because I read that they could be squeezed in the battery compartment of the ERBE. They are too big and I couldn’t stuff them in there so I decided to split them and make 4 2S1P packs. I didn’t go with the thin shrink that is commonly used, it is very thin at 0.15 mm. I went to my electronics supply store and bought some heavy duty heat shrink which is more like a hard rubber and is 1 mm thick. Those packs are almost like hard case packs. I scanned and modified the Zippy stickers a bit then printed them on a regular piece of paper and stuck them to the packs using transparent tape to try to make them look factory. I am pleased with the results. The packs weight 280 grams each.

http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w202/mistercrash1964/ERevo/Lipos/th_2s1p_1.jpg (http://s177.photobucket.com/albums/w202/mistercrash1964/ERevo/Lipos/?action=view&current=2s1p_1.jpg) http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w202/mistercrash1964/ERevo/Lipos/th_zippy_2s1p_4.jpg (http://s177.photobucket.com/albums/w202/mistercrash1964/ERevo/Lipos/?action=view&current=zippy_2s1p_4.jpg) http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w202/mistercrash1964/ERevo/Lipos/th_zippy_2s1p_5.jpg (http://s177.photobucket.com/albums/w202/mistercrash1964/ERevo/Lipos/?action=view&current=zippy_2s1p_5.jpg)

05.15.2009, 09:52 AM

I used the original base as a template to make the holes in a 150 mm X 80 mm plate of aluminum. The two pairs of holes are spread apart 120 mm.

http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w202/mistercrash1964/Dubro%20prop%20balancer/th_93d82f5b.jpg (http://s177.photobucket.com/albums/w202/mistercrash1964/Dubro%20prop%20balancer/?action=view&current=93d82f5b.jpg)

This is the rod that goes through the wheel. It comes with two coned shaped pieces. I added an old Maximizer 17 mm hex, a tube of plastic as a spacer and a collar with a set screw.

http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w202/mistercrash1964/Dubro%20prop%20balancer/th_dubro_prop_balancer2.jpg (http://s177.photobucket.com/albums/w202/mistercrash1964/Dubro%20prop%20balancer/?action=view&current=dubro_prop_balancer2.jpg) http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w202/mistercrash1964/Dubro%20prop%20balancer/th_54c30c78.jpg (http://s177.photobucket.com/albums/w202/mistercrash1964/Dubro%20prop%20balancer/?action=view&current=54c30c78.jpg)

And this is a sequence of pics on how I assemble a wheel on the shaft in case you haven't figured it out by the pics above already.

http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w202/mistercrash1964/Dubro%20prop%20balancer/th_dubro_prop_balancer4.jpg (http://s177.photobucket.com/albums/w202/mistercrash1964/Dubro%20prop%20balancer/?action=view&current=dubro_prop_balancer4.jpg) http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w202/mistercrash1964/Dubro%20prop%20balancer/th_dubro_prop_balancer5.jpg (http://s177.photobucket.com/albums/w202/mistercrash1964/Dubro%20prop%20balancer/?action=view&current=dubro_prop_balancer5.jpg) http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w202/mistercrash1964/Dubro%20prop%20balancer/th_dubro_prop_balancer6.jpg (http://s177.photobucket.com/albums/w202/mistercrash1964/Dubro%20prop%20balancer/?action=view&current=dubro_prop_balancer6.jpg) http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w202/mistercrash1964/Dubro%20prop%20balancer/th_dubro_prop_balancer7.jpg (http://s177.photobucket.com/albums/w202/mistercrash1964/Dubro%20prop%20balancer/?action=view&current=dubro_prop_balancer7.jpg) http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w202/mistercrash1964/Dubro%20prop%20balancer/th_dubro_prop_balancer8.jpg (http://s177.photobucket.com/albums/w202/mistercrash1964/Dubro%20prop%20balancer/?action=view&current=dubro_prop_balancer8.jpg)


I read that a .50 caliber AMO can from the army surplus is just right to store lipos. It’s water proof and would contain any fire that could start inside. I will probably get one in the future but until then, I have been using this little metal tool box. In case of fire inside, flames could escape from four tiny holes at the bottom corners but it’s way better than a cardboard box. I always keep it on the garage cement floor.

http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w202/mistercrash1964/ERevo/Lipo%20box/th_lipo_box2.jpg (http://s177.photobucket.com/albums/w202/mistercrash1964/ERevo/Lipo%20box/?action=view&current=lipo_box2.jpg) http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w202/mistercrash1964/ERevo/Lipo%20box/th_lipo_box1.jpg (http://s177.photobucket.com/albums/w202/mistercrash1964/ERevo/Lipo%20box/?action=view&current=lipo_box1.jpg)

05.15.2009, 09:52 AM
Testing this slipper clutch is boring, just running back and forth doing hard starts to make the slipper slip gets old very fast. So I decided to bore you with a video of part of a boring testing session. I don't like to be bored alone. At first, the slipper is too tight, even the CD doesn't prevent the truck from wheelying. After adjusting the slipper twice, I get it to slip a lot to test it's durability. Near the end of the video, you can hear it starts slipping quite a bit. But I didn't tighten it after I stopped filming, I just finished the packs doing my race simulation and surprisingly, despite the fact that the slipper was slipping a lot at the end of the hard starts part, the truck ran very well and the slipping was less noticeable during the rest of the packs. It's probably because it got to be very hot during the abuse of the repeated hard starts and got to cool down during running normally. One thing I found weird is about three quarters into the video, you can hear that slipper slipping and all of a sudden, I pop a wheely and then, it starts slipping again. Things that make you go ''hmmmm'' I was running my new 2S packs I made earlier by the way.

http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w202/mistercrash1964/ERevo/ERBE%20movies/th_slipper_test3-1.jpg (http://s177.photobucket.com/albums/w202/mistercrash1964/ERevo/ERBE%20movies/?action=view&current=slipper_test3-1.flv)

05.15.2009, 10:17 AM

I am trying out this clamp type servo horn. I like the fact that it clamps on the servo’s splines but I thought it was too short for the kind of steering I like on my ERBE so I made a small piece out of aluminum to extend the horn’s throw.

http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w202/mistercrash1964/ERevo/Steering%20servo%20horn/th_racers_edge_horn3.jpg (http://s177.photobucket.com/albums/w202/mistercrash1964/ERevo/Steering%20servo%20horn/?action=view&current=racers_edge_horn3.jpg) http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w202/mistercrash1964/ERevo/Steering%20servo%20horn/th_racers_edge_horn4.jpg (http://s177.photobucket.com/albums/w202/mistercrash1964/ERevo/Steering%20servo%20horn/?action=view&current=racers_edge_horn4.jpg) http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w202/mistercrash1964/ERevo/Steering%20servo%20horn/th_racers_edge_horn5.jpg (http://s177.photobucket.com/albums/w202/mistercrash1964/ERevo/Steering%20servo%20horn/?action=view&current=racers_edge_horn5.jpg) http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w202/mistercrash1964/ERevo/Steering%20servo%20horn/th_racers_edge_horn6.jpg (http://s177.photobucket.com/albums/w202/mistercrash1964/ERevo/Steering%20servo%20horn/?action=view&current=racers_edge_horn6.jpg) http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w202/mistercrash1964/ERevo/Steering%20servo%20horn/th_racers_edge_horn7.jpg (http://s177.photobucket.com/albums/w202/mistercrash1964/ERevo/Steering%20servo%20horn/?action=view&current=racers_edge_horn7.jpg)

05.15.2009, 02:25 PM
looks very nice, i recently made a carbon fiber motor mount/brace for my E-revo, hopefully i wont have any temp issues like you did.

05.15.2009, 02:36 PM
That servo arm is really nice! I have one as well. Nice secure servo mounting.

05.15.2009, 03:44 PM
This is by far the best selection of revo info I have seen, ever... This needs to be made into a sticky and closed. Great job MC and all the better considering you are Canadian! (sorry, had to make a Canada joke, you hoser, eh?!?!?!)

I will be applying alot of this to the slayer when I set it up again. All great info.

05.15.2009, 04:38 PM
I could write something long and nice but it's easier to just say DITTO to linc's post, Canadian jokes included! :lol:

Very impressive write up.

05.15.2009, 06:21 PM
i hate you:lol:
you beat me to exactly what i was gonna do!!!!

ive got a 2.5 convert and i am slowly doing ALL of these mods:rofl:

but i really like your build...will be a valuable resorce in years to come:intello:

05.15.2009, 07:14 PM
Very nice write up. Where do you live in Canada?

05.15.2009, 07:32 PM
Thank you eh! Very nice of you eh! I live in Guelph, Ontario eh! And please don't close the thread eh! Might have some more stuff to ad if I think of something eh! :tongue: :mdr:
Like those companies I have been harassing to make an aluminum chassis for the ERevo. I even sent them a crude drawing of what I think would work great. Basically a slightly modified 3.3 chassis with wings for battery boxes much like the ones Monster Mike sells.

http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w202/mistercrash1964/th_erevo_concept_aluminum_chassis1.jpg (http://s177.photobucket.com/albums/w202/mistercrash1964/?action=view&current=erevo_concept_aluminum_chassis1.jpg)

05.15.2009, 07:50 PM
Canada's pretty nice, eh? I lived on take Temagami (aboot 5 hoours north of Toronto, eh?)

05.18.2009, 08:49 AM
This weekend was the first big race for the ERBE. The Hardcore Racers RC Club Spring Showdown Trophy Race. As this was a one day event, the number of entries in Truggies, Buggies and MTs were limited to 98. I could only manage to get a third place, my set up is all wrong and the truck was bouncy, squirely and bottoming out in some places. Other than a battery lead coming loose in the third qualifier, nothing broke on the truck, everything (except my set up) worked flawlessly. I am very pleased.

http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w202/mistercrash1964/ERevo/th_2009_spring_showdown1.jpg (http://s177.photobucket.com/albums/w202/mistercrash1964/ERevo/?action=view&current=2009_spring_showdown1.jpg)

05.18.2009, 10:45 PM
The diffs move in a Revo. They move inside the bulkheads. Just look at the abrasion marks on your diff cases and inside the bulkheads when you take them apart. Some people tried to stuff silicon in there to hold the diffs in place, some put foam underneath the chassis to press down on the diff. I'm sure someone will chime in with yet another Band Aid fix for this little problem. I want a permanent fix. I am going to try out these diff blocks that key into the bulkheads and sandwich the diffs in place holding them tight preventing movement up and down, left and right. I made them for my LST2 diffs but I'm sure they would not work for the stock diffs.

The front blocks

http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w202/mistercrash1964/ERevo/Diff%20blocks/th_diff_blocks1.jpg (http://s177.photobucket.com/albums/w202/mistercrash1964/ERevo/Diff%20blocks/?action=view&current=diff_blocks1.jpg) http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w202/mistercrash1964/ERevo/Diff%20blocks/th_diff_blocks2.jpg (http://s177.photobucket.com/albums/w202/mistercrash1964/ERevo/Diff%20blocks/?action=view&current=diff_blocks2.jpg) http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w202/mistercrash1964/ERevo/Diff%20blocks/th_diff_blocks3.jpg (http://s177.photobucket.com/albums/w202/mistercrash1964/ERevo/Diff%20blocks/?action=view&current=diff_blocks3.jpg) http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w202/mistercrash1964/ERevo/Diff%20blocks/th_diff_blocks4.jpg (http://s177.photobucket.com/albums/w202/mistercrash1964/ERevo/Diff%20blocks/?action=view&current=diff_blocks4.jpg)

And the rear blocks

http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w202/mistercrash1964/ERevo/Diff%20blocks/th_diff_blocks5.jpg (http://s177.photobucket.com/albums/w202/mistercrash1964/ERevo/Diff%20blocks/?action=view&current=diff_blocks5.jpg) http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w202/mistercrash1964/ERevo/Diff%20blocks/th_diff_blocks6.jpg (http://s177.photobucket.com/albums/w202/mistercrash1964/ERevo/Diff%20blocks/?action=view&current=diff_blocks6.jpg)

05.19.2009, 12:38 AM
I think it's better to have holes in a metal case, because if you don't, the fire and pressure will build up, and when you open the case after the fire has started, you better run away, fast, because it will just come bursting out.

Vent holes is best.

05.20.2009, 11:34 PM
The front bulkheads are secured to the chassis with six screws. 4 M4 button head screws and two M3 that go through the front shock tower and chassis and screw into the front bulkheads. The rear ERBE bulkheads only have 4 screws to secure them to the chassis, two M4 button head screws in the back and two M3 screws that go through the rear shock tower. I wanted to have two more M4 screws to hold the rear bulkheads to the chassis like the front ones.

I drilled those right through with a 3.3 mm drill bit and then made M4X.7 mm threads in the holes.

http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w202/mistercrash1964/ERevo/Rear%20bulkheads/th_rear_bulkhead1.jpg (http://s177.photobucket.com/albums/w202/mistercrash1964/ERevo/Rear%20bulkheads/?action=view&current=rear_bulkhead1.jpg)

I drilled matching hole in the chassis with a 4 mm drill bit.

http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w202/mistercrash1964/ERevo/Rear%20bulkheads/th_rear_bulkhead2.jpg (http://s177.photobucket.com/albums/w202/mistercrash1964/ERevo/Rear%20bulkheads/?action=view&current=rear_bulkhead2.jpg)

Now I have two more M4 screws that secure the rear bulkheads to the chassis. Since my rear shocks are a bit higher because of the shims I put underneath the rocker posts and rear shock tower, the shocks do not rub on the screw heads.

http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w202/mistercrash1964/ERevo/Rear%20bulkheads/th_rear_bulkhead3.jpg (http://s177.photobucket.com/albums/w202/mistercrash1964/ERevo/Rear%20bulkheads/?action=view&current=rear_bulkhead3.jpg)

I will also be trying out a different way of using the M3 screws that go through the rear shock tower and shock caps. I used longer screws that stick out the bottom and I put a lock nut to tighten everything up really tight and secure. A couple hole in the center skid plate to be able to take the screws out if I have to without removing the center skid plate. If you are worried that dirt might get in there because of the two holes, I say, dirt gets in there anyway even with no holes.

http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w202/mistercrash1964/ERevo/Rear%20bulkheads/th_rear_bulkhead4.jpg (http://s177.photobucket.com/albums/w202/mistercrash1964/ERevo/Rear%20bulkheads/?action=view&current=rear_bulkhead4.jpg) http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w202/mistercrash1964/ERevo/Rear%20bulkheads/th_rear_bulkhead5.jpg (http://s177.photobucket.com/albums/w202/mistercrash1964/ERevo/Rear%20bulkheads/?action=view&current=rear_bulkhead5.jpg)

05.21.2009, 04:40 PM
MC, it's nice to see the original design of the CD , working under real life track conditions, with a few tweaks by yourself..included... Hopefully this weekend I'll be testing my original diff at a track, and see how it actually performs for me as well. Your truck looks great, I think I may give the aluminum slipper disc a try, if i ever get a chance to make one....maybe this weekend I'll get a chance....nice work man...

05.21.2009, 11:43 PM
Wow! My build is a sticky. I'm honored. :mdr:

I'm sure you will love how your CD performs. I know I couldn't go back to the Traxxas CD after racing with my 8th scale CD.

Speaking of the slipper, I bought belleville springs on ebay
http://cgi.ebay.com/3-16-x-3-8-Belleville-Compression-spring-washers-25_W0QQitemZ110322197610QQcmdZViewItemQQptZLH_Defa ultDomain_0?hash=item19afb7246a&_trksid=p4634.c0.m14.l1262&_trkparms=|301%3A1|293%3A1|294%3A30

And I will try out 6 of them like this ((())) tomorrow.

05.23.2009, 02:16 PM
Congrats on the sticky! ;)
I've been following this topic since it was started back on the Traxxas forum, good to see you here...

Say, I'm wondering why you chose to use the Summit axles vs. the CVD axles. Or any other type for that matter.
Did you want the axles to be the weak link because they are cheaper?

And why didn't you choose the RPM true track arms, alot of people that race claim they are the best.


05.23.2009, 07:43 PM
I chose to try the Summit shafts, I got a few complete sets on ebay for a good price, really good compared to CVDs. Up to now, they have been really good. They are just starting to show signs of wear after three months of daily bashing and racing. The weak point I would say is the slipper, I did so much testing on the slipper because I thought that if this ERBE has a very strong and effective slipper that can take all the hard hits to the drive train, there won't be any breakage. Up to now, it's been working.

I never thought of trying the RPM true tracks, I just don't like the idea of a set toe in that can't be changed, and unlike you, I have read mixed reviews of the true tracks. Mostly about the pillow ball popping out, which doesn't surprise me from my past experience with RPM carriers.

05.24.2009, 12:57 AM
I think it's better to have holes in a metal case, because if you don't, the fire and pressure will build up, and when you open the case after the fire has started, you better run away, fast, because it will just come bursting out.

Vent holes is best.
Ventilation hole would only help the fire:intello: And fire uses oxygen, so where would the "pressure" build up if it uses all its oxygen? I think the more airtight the case the better.

05.24.2009, 01:02 AM
oh yea, very nice buld, MC, very nice...:mdr:

05.24.2009, 02:01 AM

Well, I would still rather have one with holes.

Over time, even with Oxygen, it'll die out.

05.24.2009, 04:43 PM
Thanks Urgeoner,

What an awful day of racing I had today. When I bought plugs for my lipos and ESC, I wanted to try the EC3 type plugs. Well after some use, they start to be a little loose and they disconnect by themselves. I was DNF on all of my quals. The third qual was not because of a connector coming loose but by an ESC wire de soldered at the plug. I just packed my stuff and came home. I was very disappointed. I just ordered a whole bunch on genuine Deans Ultra Plugs (genuine meaning not the Hobby City knock offs) and I will have some work cut out for me as I am going to get rid of all these EC3 plugs I have and replace them with the Deans.

On a positive note, the Belleville springs for the slipper worked awsome.

05.24.2009, 05:37 PM
mistercrash: You want to try the EC5s, and not the EC3's.

The EC3's are smaller than the EC5's, thus why they couldn't handle the amount of amps, and that.

05.24.2009, 06:44 PM
I've read nothing bad about the Hobbycity deans,but you can't go wrong with the real stuff I guess. :yes:
Why did you opt for the Deans vs. TRX connectors? :)

05.24.2009, 06:55 PM
Hey MC, I ran the erevo an my Cd today for the first time, and I have my truck pretty well setup for the track I will be practicing at, you were right the Cd made a world of difference, but i have more plans for it as well, but will have to this fall, for now im gonna enjoy the diff right now.

05.24.2009, 07:15 PM
I've read nothing bad about the Hobbycity deans,but you can't go wrong with the real stuff I guess. :yes:
Why did you opt for the Deans vs. TRX connectors? :)

I ran Deans connectors way back when I was racing on road, and they always were very good and they always stayed connected even after months, if not years of use. Of course that was when 1500 mah matched nicads were the hot ticket. I was never dealing with the amount of current that is used with lipos and the MMM. But Deans Ultra Plugs have proven for a while now that they can deal with the tremendous amount of current of today's brushless systems. When I left the on road scene when the 3800 mah nimh were becoming the hot ticket, I was still running the same Deans that were used for my first batteries. Deans are tough and stay connected and are reusable. So I decided to go with what has proven to be extremely reliable to me from past experience.

I knew you would love it, who wouldn't. A good, strong , smooth and reliable CD in the Revo makes a world of difference. And you won't have to rebuild it after every race day :mdr:
I can't wait to see what you have in store next. Keep us updated.

05.24.2009, 07:16 PM
IIRC, the EC5's are reusable as well.

05.24.2009, 08:33 PM
IIRC, the EC5's are reusable as well.

I agree that they can be reused, but let me ask you, how often do you think you can pop out the gold plated connector out of the plastic holder and pop it back in? I would say that it wouldn't take long that the plastic holder would not hold that gold plated connector very securely. And at almost $7 a pair, not including shipping and custom fees, I will get as much satisfaction if not more with the Deans for half the price. I don't have a money tree, and even if I did, it would be CDN money so Deans it is for me. :yes:

05.24.2009, 08:57 PM
Touche, that's exactly what I thought.

The price is definitely turning me off, but for some reason I'm growing tired of Deans...
The wire seems to be heating up, which is starting to worry me. (The wires from my Battery to ESC.. May be something else though)

I've never reused Deans before... Wouldn't like to either, seems like.. i don't know, just doesn't seem likely me to do.

05.25.2009, 06:17 PM
Are TRX connectors reusable, can de contact plate be disconnected from the plastic?
Or will the same problem occur as MC just stated?

05.25.2009, 06:58 PM
Pretty sure the same thing.
Will be really hard to take em out of the plastic housings.

05.25.2009, 10:28 PM
Running a rear wing puts a lot of strain on the rear body mount. Many have made all sorts of braces to strengthen that body mount. Here's my take on it. Very light weight and much stronger than it looks.

The parts

http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w202/mistercrash1964/ERevo/Rear%20body%20mount%20brace/th_rear_body_mount_brace1.jpg (http://s177.photobucket.com/albums/w202/mistercrash1964/ERevo/Rear%20body%20mount%20brace/?action=view&current=rear_body_mount_brace1.jpg)

A small piece of 3 mm thick carbon fiber to fit over the rear shock tower, some nuts and screws, a brass insert for the rear body mount and a rod with ball ends glued at each end. The rod is a carbon fiber rod, I drilled the ball ends so that they would fit snug on the rod with CA glue.

http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w202/mistercrash1964/ERevo/Rear%20body%20mount%20brace/th_rear_body_mount_brace2.jpg (http://s177.photobucket.com/albums/w202/mistercrash1964/ERevo/Rear%20body%20mount%20brace/?action=view&current=rear_body_mount_brace2.jpg)

If anyone wonders if the ball ends will stay on the rod, stop wondering. On my nitro Revo, I replaced the sway bar turnbuckles with the same kind of CF rod and it hasn't failed after using them since 2006.

05.26.2009, 02:47 AM
DEANS FTW!!!!!:lol:
never failed me yet.

i chose to use summit axles over the CVD's cause CVD's have a doggie bone at one end...and this always pops out on me :neutral::diablo:

where as the summit shafts are technicaly a CVD at both ends.

we'll see how strong they are :whip::whistle:
trying to scrounge myself a hyper 7 diff too :P..casue the traxxas one with 500k oil is not thick enuff methinks (but i never re-build it :rofl:)

05.26.2009, 08:06 PM
Looks very pro MC. :)
do you compensate for the CF plate on top, and the one underneath you placed earlier, by using longer screws for the rear shock mount?

05.26.2009, 09:07 PM
Looks very pro MC. :)
do you compensate for the CF plate on top, and the one underneath you placed earlier, by using longer screws for the rear shock mount?

absoloobly :mdr: I use M3X.5X45 mm cap head screws 12.9, they stick out the bottom like I showed in post #32 and I lock them up with M3 nylok nuts from underneath the chassis.

05.26.2009, 09:34 PM
absoloobly :mdr: I use M3X.5X45 mm cap head screws 12.9, they stick out the bottom like I showed in post #32 and I lock them up with M3 nylok nuts from underneath the chassis.

Ahh right, I remember that. Man that thing is going to be bullet proof, what I like most is that it just looks so professional. :intello:

I copied your idea of the rear skid plate made out of cheap sheet metal a while ago, works great.
Today I was looking to make one for the front to, as it is needed most there.
It ended up nice, and without any drilling into original parts. (I wanted to keep stock parts undamaged so it'd be easier to sell later. I have an E revo, and want to go BL later... money you know:rules:)

05.28.2009, 01:50 PM
I'm dizzy from the soldering fumes :lol:

http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w202/mistercrash1964/ERevo/Deans/th_deans1.jpg (http://s177.photobucket.com/albums/w202/mistercrash1964/ERevo/Deans/?action=view&current=deans1.jpg)

A little thing I do when I solder Deans plugs. Although I am very careful and plan ahead, on occasion, I have to keep the soldering iron tip longer than I should on the Deans' metal tab making the plastic start to melt and the tab moves and becomes crooked. This results in a bad connection or no connection at all. You know, you suddenly have a little twitch and the iron tip moves with the wire and you try to reposition it, it only takes a couple seconds but that is enough to over heat the plug's metal tab.
Some say to connect a male plug into the female plug you want to solder wires to and vice versa. That extra plug absorbs a lot of the heat and often makes for a poor soldering job, cold solder.
So here's my trick, I stuff tiny pieces of hard wood in the female plug I want to work on. Those pieces of wood have been sanded down carefully so that they fit snug but not tight. The wood does not absorb heat and it holds the plug's metal tab in place in case something happens and the plastic starts to melt. For a male plug, I took a scrap female plug and yanked the metal tabs out oh it and replaced them with the wood pieces. This holds the metal tabs of a male plug in place in case the plastic starts to melt. Easy and effective, it made the job much easier.

http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w202/mistercrash1964/ERevo/Deans/th_deans2.jpg (http://s177.photobucket.com/albums/w202/mistercrash1964/ERevo/Deans/?action=view&current=deans2.jpg) http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w202/mistercrash1964/ERevo/Deans/th_deans3.jpg (http://s177.photobucket.com/albums/w202/mistercrash1964/ERevo/Deans/?action=view&current=deans3.jpg) http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w202/mistercrash1964/ERevo/Deans/th_deans4.jpg (http://s177.photobucket.com/albums/w202/mistercrash1964/ERevo/Deans/?action=view&current=deans4.jpg) http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w202/mistercrash1964/ERevo/Deans/th_deans5.jpg (http://s177.photobucket.com/albums/w202/mistercrash1964/ERevo/Deans/?action=view&current=deans5.jpg)

05.28.2009, 02:09 PM
And that my friend, is another reason I switched everything over to 5.5mm bullet connectors....

05.28.2009, 02:44 PM
And that my friend, is another reason I switched everything over to 5.5mm bullet connectors....

...Anderson PowerPoles...no soldering necessary!

05.28.2009, 07:45 PM
Thanks for the suggestions. 5.5 bullets, Deans, Traxxas, Anderson PowerPoles, EC5s... :oh: I like how everyone agrees on one good connector :mdr:

05.28.2009, 09:04 PM
I know right?
I thought about PowerPoles and Deans when I first started RC.
Then, just a few eeks ago, I started thinking about EC5s.
Then, a few days ago, I'm thinking about TRX connectors.

I think I'm just gonna stick to Deans, but just gotta switch over all my HobbyCity plugs to some real Ultra plugs.

05.28.2009, 09:31 PM
...I have to keep the soldering iron tip longer than I should on the Deans' metal tab making the plastic start to melt and the tab moves and becomes crooked. This results in a bad connection or no connection at all.

You should try a more powerful iron, or a soldering gun. I use my 230W gun to solder Deans and 5.5mm bullets. I let it heat up for a bit so when I put it on the Deans' solder tab it heats/solders so fast that the other end barely gets hot. It also helps to tin the wire/tab just before soldering it so they're still warm and the solder re-melts more easily.


05.28.2009, 10:02 PM
What the...


I only have a puny 60-80W iron..

05.28.2009, 11:23 PM
You should try a more powerful iron, or a soldering gun.

I use this (http://www.hvwtech.com/products_view.asp?ProductID=209) and I also have this (http://www.testequipmentdepot.com/weller/popups/spg80l.htm) for big jobs.

05.29.2009, 02:13 AM
I would give you a link but Sears is updating their website again... :/ It's the Craftsman 150/230W soldering gun. #54046

05.29.2009, 08:21 AM
I think I'm just gonna stick to Deans, but just gotta switch over all my HobbyCity plugs to some real Ultra plugs.

Have you noticed any difference between them?

05.29.2009, 08:57 AM
I would give you a link but Sears is updating their website again... :/ It's the Craftsman 150/230W soldering gun. #54046

I have a very similar gun that has the same wattage as the Craftsman but by a different company. It has been sitting in it's box somewhere ever since I bought my Hakko. I find my Hakko and Weller soldering stations much more efficient and easier to use than a gun. This is my preference, yours is the gun and that's fine too.

05.29.2009, 09:56 AM
As I haven't bought the Ultra plugs yet, no, but Mike (evonuI <- I think?) has told me that they will melt at high amps, so, I don't want to risk my packs and ESC. :neutral:

05.29.2009, 09:57 AM
I would give you a link but Sears is updating their website again... :/ It's the Craftsman 150/230W soldering gun. #54046

Here you go:

05.29.2009, 11:40 AM
Some of my Zippy lipos did not have decals on them like the Flightmax series so I made my own. I just printed them on regular paper and stuck them with packing tape. If you want some for yourself, here's what I've made for my 3S and 4S zippys and a blank decal that you can put the mah, # of cells and C rating with a sharpie. It helps identify the lipo when the small writing on it starts to wear off.

http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w202/mistercrash1964/ERevo/Lipos/th_zippy_decals1.jpg (http://s177.photobucket.com/albums/w202/mistercrash1964/ERevo/Lipos/?action=view&current=zippy_decals1.jpg) http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w202/mistercrash1964/ERevo/Lipos/th_zippy_4s_3500_30c.jpg (http://s177.photobucket.com/albums/w202/mistercrash1964/ERevo/Lipos/?action=view&current=zippy_4s_3500_30c.jpg) http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w202/mistercrash1964/ERevo/Lipos/th_zippy_3s_5000_20c.jpg (http://s177.photobucket.com/albums/w202/mistercrash1964/ERevo/Lipos/?action=view&current=zippy_3s_5000_20c.jpg) http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w202/mistercrash1964/ERevo/Lipos/th_zippy_blank.jpg (http://s177.photobucket.com/albums/w202/mistercrash1964/ERevo/Lipos/?action=view&current=zippy_blank.jpg)

06.02.2009, 04:08 PM
Hehe MC looks like you're going to need to replace those labels with Turnigy labels! ;)

The zippy's will be discontinued soon.

06.03.2009, 12:04 AM
Yes I read the thread about it. And just when I finished doing nice Flightmax decals :oh:

http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w202/mistercrash1964/ERevo/Lipos/th_zippy_flightmax_2S1P_5000_30c.jpg (http://s177.photobucket.com/albums/w202/mistercrash1964/ERevo/Lipos/?action=view&current=zippy_flightmax_2S1P_5000_30c.jpg) http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w202/mistercrash1964/ERevo/Lipos/th_zippy_flightmax_blank.jpg (http://s177.photobucket.com/albums/w202/mistercrash1964/ERevo/Lipos/?action=view&current=zippy_flightmax_blank.jpg)

06.04.2009, 10:55 AM
A little update on how my ERBE is doing. I'm very happy with my Dean's up to now, they are doing very good, this weekend is the second race in the championship so they will be put to the ultimate test. The diff blocks are awsome, my front and rear diffs actually feel like they are more efficient since they absolutely don't move inside the bulkheads. The rear body mount brace is holding up very well.

I ordered 4 of the new Turnigy lipos (http://www.hobbycity.com/hobbycity/store/uh_viewItem.asp?idProduct=9172&Product_Name=Turnigy_5000mAh_2S_15C_Lipo_Pack) from Hobby King to try out. On the Hobby King forum, there is a thread about a mistake that was made in the first run of Turnigys (http://www.hobbycity.com/hobbycity/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=1627). Apparently, they are mislabeled as 15C/20C when in fact they are really 20C/30C cells inside. First thing I will do when I get them is to take the shrink off to see the printing on the cells, the C rating is usually printed on them.

06.04.2009, 03:10 PM
Good to hear your upgrades are doing well.
Does all your work succeed in the first try? ;) :LOL:
I know you use fairly standard tools to machine your CF, but I'd love to know more details about it, because customizing my RC with homemade parts is the most fun in the whole of RC imo...:p

e.g. how do you go about making a CF motor plate?

I'm looking forward to hearing your opinion about the Turnigy cells, be it here or in the topic about them in the general forum...

06.04.2009, 06:35 PM
I too would like to know about those Turnigy lipos, been looking at them as well.

06.04.2009, 11:57 PM
Hi MisterCrash, can you write a mini tutorial on how to split the lipo batteries to make a 4s into 2x 2s? I got a 3s but one of the cell is puffed so I want to make it into 2s but doesn't know where to start. Also, where do you get the 2s balancing connectors?

06.05.2009, 12:08 AM
I would never try messing with soldering lipos, but I might have to try NiMH's.

Anyways, I think you basically eliminate the solder wires, and just solder the wires onto the other cell..

I know, I'm bad at explaining, if you want someone else to do it for you, pretty much professionally, take a look at LincPimp's work.

Very good quality.

06.05.2009, 12:24 AM
thanks for telling about LincPimp thread, great info there. The cells on my pack is glue together. Is it safe to just rip them apart? What do you do with the balancing tab after you resolder the wire?

06.05.2009, 09:54 AM
I'm not an expert on working with lipos, maybe Linc can chime in here and give pointers. The 4S packs I split were my first experience and it turned out good. First thing I thought about was my own safety and the safety of my family. I cleared my work table of anything flammable, just keeping the tools I would use for the job, I worked in my garage, close to the opened garage door. If something happened, I was ready to just swat whatever was on fire out the door and it would've fallen on the driveway. I previously cleared the driveway by parking the cars in the street. I had an ABC fire extinguisher at arm's reach, I used ''SureGrip'' gloves to protect my hands and goggles for my eyes.

The shrink wrap is easy to take off, hobby knife, scissors can be used to cut it. You just have to be very careful not to damage the wrapping of the cells, don't cut it, puncture it or anything. To split the cells I used a scrap piece of Lexan, a thick piece that is left when you trim a new body. I just made a rectangle and I sanded one edge I would use to round it out with no sharp edges and I used that to split the cells. I just worked it in slowly to break the adhesive and it worked very well.

The balancing tabs I used were these from Hobby King. I just cut off the female part and used the male.

I was thinking of splitting my 3S packs as I only run 2S now so maybe I can take some picks while I'm doing it and I'll try to show how I make a CF part. I just have to find some time as I have been kind of busy lately.

06.05.2009, 12:45 PM
I forgot I wanted to give an update on the aluminum slipper pad with the Belleville springs. It works awsome! The Belleville springs make the thing very adjustable and it keeps the setting much better than the stock spring. That aluminum slipper pad gives very good, consistent and controlled ''slippage''. It eliminates wheelies running 4S. It still will get the nose up to the point of having the rear wing scrape the surface you're running on, running on 5 and 6S. But the truck will not flip. And finally, that aluminum slipper pad lasts a long long time, I'm still running the very first one I made.

06.06.2009, 06:00 PM
I took 2 of my 3S Zippy lipos and split them today. The cells on them took a hit at one time and they are a little rippled at the ends. Other than those ripples, the packs are good and don't cause any problems so I decided to split them and make 3 2S1P packs. I took some picks of how I did it. I hope it can help someone else do the same if they need to. If you are careful, prepared and think about safety, it can be done fairly easily and safely. Lots of pics here so this will extend to the next two or three posts.

http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w202/mistercrash1964/ERevo/Splitting%20lipo%20battery%20packs/th_3s_to_2s_split1.jpg (http://s177.photobucket.com/albums/w202/mistercrash1964/ERevo/Splitting%20lipo%20battery%20packs/?action=view&current=3s_to_2s_split1.jpg) http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w202/mistercrash1964/ERevo/Splitting%20lipo%20battery%20packs/th_3s_to_2s_split2.jpg (http://s177.photobucket.com/albums/w202/mistercrash1964/ERevo/Splitting%20lipo%20battery%20packs/?action=view&current=3s_to_2s_split2.jpg) http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w202/mistercrash1964/ERevo/Splitting%20lipo%20battery%20packs/th_3s_to_2s_split3.jpg (http://s177.photobucket.com/albums/w202/mistercrash1964/ERevo/Splitting%20lipo%20battery%20packs/?action=view&current=3s_to_2s_split3.jpg) http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w202/mistercrash1964/ERevo/Splitting%20lipo%20battery%20packs/th_3s_to_2s_split4.jpg (http://s177.photobucket.com/albums/w202/mistercrash1964/ERevo/Splitting%20lipo%20battery%20packs/?action=view&current=3s_to_2s_split4.jpg) http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w202/mistercrash1964/ERevo/Splitting%20lipo%20battery%20packs/th_3s_to_2s_split5.jpg (http://s177.photobucket.com/albums/w202/mistercrash1964/ERevo/Splitting%20lipo%20battery%20packs/?action=view&current=3s_to_2s_split5.jpg) http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w202/mistercrash1964/ERevo/Splitting%20lipo%20battery%20packs/th_3s_to_2s_split6.jpg (http://s177.photobucket.com/albums/w202/mistercrash1964/ERevo/Splitting%20lipo%20battery%20packs/?action=view&current=3s_to_2s_split6.jpg) http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w202/mistercrash1964/ERevo/Splitting%20lipo%20battery%20packs/th_3s_to_2s_split7.jpg (http://s177.photobucket.com/albums/w202/mistercrash1964/ERevo/Splitting%20lipo%20battery%20packs/?action=view&current=3s_to_2s_split7.jpg) http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w202/mistercrash1964/ERevo/Splitting%20lipo%20battery%20packs/th_3s_to_2s_split8.jpg (http://s177.photobucket.com/albums/w202/mistercrash1964/ERevo/Splitting%20lipo%20battery%20packs/?action=view&current=3s_to_2s_split8.jpg) http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w202/mistercrash1964/ERevo/Splitting%20lipo%20battery%20packs/th_3s_to_2s_split9.jpg (http://s177.photobucket.com/albums/w202/mistercrash1964/ERevo/Splitting%20lipo%20battery%20packs/?action=view&current=3s_to_2s_split9.jpg) http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w202/mistercrash1964/ERevo/Splitting%20lipo%20battery%20packs/th_3s_to_2s_split10.jpg (http://s177.photobucket.com/albums/w202/mistercrash1964/ERevo/Splitting%20lipo%20battery%20packs/?action=view&current=3s_to_2s_split10.jpg)

06.06.2009, 06:01 PM
http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w202/mistercrash1964/ERevo/Splitting%20lipo%20battery%20packs/th_3s_to_2s_split11.jpg (http://s177.photobucket.com/albums/w202/mistercrash1964/ERevo/Splitting%20lipo%20battery%20packs/?action=view&current=3s_to_2s_split11.jpg) http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w202/mistercrash1964/ERevo/Splitting%20lipo%20battery%20packs/th_3s_to_2s_split12.jpg (http://s177.photobucket.com/albums/w202/mistercrash1964/ERevo/Splitting%20lipo%20battery%20packs/?action=view&current=3s_to_2s_split12.jpg) http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w202/mistercrash1964/ERevo/Splitting%20lipo%20battery%20packs/th_3s_to_2s_split13.jpg (http://s177.photobucket.com/albums/w202/mistercrash1964/ERevo/Splitting%20lipo%20battery%20packs/?action=view&current=3s_to_2s_split13.jpg) http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w202/mistercrash1964/ERevo/Splitting%20lipo%20battery%20packs/th_3s_to_2s_split14.jpg (http://s177.photobucket.com/albums/w202/mistercrash1964/ERevo/Splitting%20lipo%20battery%20packs/?action=view&current=3s_to_2s_split14.jpg) http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w202/mistercrash1964/ERevo/Splitting%20lipo%20battery%20packs/th_3s_to_2s_split15.jpg (http://s177.photobucket.com/albums/w202/mistercrash1964/ERevo/Splitting%20lipo%20battery%20packs/?action=view&current=3s_to_2s_split15.jpg) http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w202/mistercrash1964/ERevo/Splitting%20lipo%20battery%20packs/th_3s_to_2s_split16.jpg (http://s177.photobucket.com/albums/w202/mistercrash1964/ERevo/Splitting%20lipo%20battery%20packs/?action=view&current=3s_to_2s_split16.jpg) http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w202/mistercrash1964/ERevo/Splitting%20lipo%20battery%20packs/th_3s_to_2s_split17.jpg (http://s177.photobucket.com/albums/w202/mistercrash1964/ERevo/Splitting%20lipo%20battery%20packs/?action=view&current=3s_to_2s_split17.jpg) http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w202/mistercrash1964/ERevo/Splitting%20lipo%20battery%20packs/th_3s_to_2s_split18.jpg (http://s177.photobucket.com/albums/w202/mistercrash1964/ERevo/Splitting%20lipo%20battery%20packs/?action=view&current=3s_to_2s_split18.jpg) http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w202/mistercrash1964/ERevo/Splitting%20lipo%20battery%20packs/th_3s_to_2s_split19.jpg (http://s177.photobucket.com/albums/w202/mistercrash1964/ERevo/Splitting%20lipo%20battery%20packs/?action=view&current=3s_to_2s_split19.jpg) http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w202/mistercrash1964/ERevo/Splitting%20lipo%20battery%20packs/th_3s_to_2s_split20.jpg (http://s177.photobucket.com/albums/w202/mistercrash1964/ERevo/Splitting%20lipo%20battery%20packs/?action=view&current=3s_to_2s_split20.jpg)

06.06.2009, 06:02 PM
http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w202/mistercrash1964/ERevo/Splitting%20lipo%20battery%20packs/th_3s_to_2s_split21.jpg (http://s177.photobucket.com/albums/w202/mistercrash1964/ERevo/Splitting%20lipo%20battery%20packs/?action=view&current=3s_to_2s_split21.jpg)

The third lipo I have splitting those 2 3S lipos will be for sale, probably to someone in Canada since I don't know if I can ship it outside of the country.

06.08.2009, 04:05 PM
It was an exciting race weekend, not as many MT racers showed up due to the threatening weather but the rain stayed in the clouds and the racing kept on going. The ERBE was running fantastic, I TQed and ran the fastest lap but a steering servo failure kept me from taking the win in the main so I got second place.
Three things failed on the truck this weekend, the servo stripped gears, when I took it out to know the extend of the damage, I noticed that one of the ''ears'' was broken.

http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w202/mistercrash1964/ERevo/Servo%20blocks/th_servo_blocks2.jpg (http://s177.photobucket.com/albums/w202/mistercrash1964/ERevo/Servo%20blocks/?action=view&current=servo_blocks2.jpg)

And finally, the rear body mount brace I made with a carbon fiber rod broke. I was jumping the triple in the back stretch and while the truck is just leaving the jump, I notice a marshall in the middle of the path of my ERBE so my reflex was to apply the brakes.... in mid air :mdr: I landed very badly with the back of the truck hitting the ground first. That is when I broke the brace.

http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w202/mistercrash1964/ERevo/Rear%20body%20mount%20brace/th_rear_body_mount_brace3.jpg (http://s177.photobucket.com/albums/w202/mistercrash1964/ERevo/Rear%20body%20mount%20brace/?action=view&current=rear_body_mount_brace3.jpg)

This goes to show that a brace is needed to keep the rear body mount from flexing too much when running a rear wing. Without the brace, it might have been the body mount or even the chassis breaking. I made a new one using a spare steel P2 pushrod.

This is what I made for my steering servo after I replaced the gears and put a new upper case on it.

http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w202/mistercrash1964/ERevo/Servo%20blocks/th_servo_blocks1.jpg (http://s177.photobucket.com/albums/w202/mistercrash1964/ERevo/Servo%20blocks/?action=view&current=servo_blocks1.jpg)

These little blocks spread the tension of the screws and nuts I use evenly and keeps the servo case from breaking.

http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w202/mistercrash1964/ERevo/Servo%20blocks/th_servo_blocks3.jpg (http://s177.photobucket.com/albums/w202/mistercrash1964/ERevo/Servo%20blocks/?action=view&current=servo_blocks3.jpg)

06.08.2009, 07:06 PM
Too bad to hear about the CF rod breaking. Indeed it proves the rear body mount flexes a fair amount...

Now you're using a steel pushrod you lost some weight advantage, are you planning to use aluminum later on, or a thicker CF rod?
What was the diameter of the CF rod btw?

06.08.2009, 07:28 PM
The diameter of the CF rod was 3 mm. I think the CF might just be to stiff and even if I tried a thicker rod, the same result may happen. Or if the rod doesn't have a little give into it, it might just transfer the impact to the rear shock tower and damage that area. I will run with the steel pushrod and see what happens. I am not worried about 10 grams added to the rear of the truck. I don't even think a factory driver would notice an added 10 grams of weight on a truck that is close to 12 pounds when running two 4S 3900 mah lipos :smile:

06.09.2009, 11:22 PM
MC, thanks for posting the lipos splitting guide. I followed your guide and fixed my 3s lipo w/ a puffed cell. It was scary :)

06.09.2009, 11:24 PM
Sure you didn't short anything out?


I'm never secure at my soldering jobs, I'm always worrying, not a good self-esteem =/

06.09.2009, 11:31 PM
i have been running a steel P2 rod as a brace for months not and have yet to have it break. The shock mount piece broke a couple times, as initially they were made of pieces from the E-revo chassis that i broke. But now i have a carbon fiber mount so that issue should be fixed. I eventually will replace the steel with a traxxas aluminum one to reduce the weight.

06.10.2009, 10:02 AM
i have been running a steel P2 rod as a brace for months not and have yet to have it break. I eventually will replace the steel with a traxxas aluminum one to reduce the weight.

Yeah it's an old mod that has been working well for many Revo owners. I plan on putting a red aluminum pushrod also for weight and good looks.

06.12.2009, 10:03 AM
The Turnigy lipos I ordered came in today, they were very nicely packaged in individual boxes with bubble wrap, they look very good, as flat has they can be. Very well put together.

http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w202/mistercrash1964/ERevo/Lipos/th_turnigy_2s1p_1.jpg (http://s177.photobucket.com/albums/w202/mistercrash1964/ERevo/Lipos/?action=view&current=turnigy_2s1p_1.jpg)

Now the rumor about those batteries is that they are mislabeled as 15C/20C cells when they actually are 20C/30C cells. So since I'm a crazy French guy, the first thing I did to one of the batteries was to rip the heat shrink off to see if there was some writing on the cells that could prove they are 20C/30C. I remember that the Zippy packs I split had the C rating printed on the cells. I was hoping that the Turnigy cells would have the C rating printed on them too. The only writing I found made no sense and Googling the numbers gave no results. So I don't know if the claims of mislabeling are true.
The numbers I found were:
Is there a way to measure the C rating of a lipo battery?

06.12.2009, 10:21 AM
Oh they better be 20-30C, I will kill HC if they're not, well, not really.

EagleTree Logger, will work, just hook it up to the battery and the ESC, and use it, and see how much it's really puttin out.

revo guy
06.12.2009, 10:55 AM
mistercrash I too got my turnagy packs today.
2 5000mah 3s 25c packs
one was perfect but in the other pack one of the cells is reversed. The cell voltages are
Total 3.65
C1 3.64
C2 -3.66
C3 3.65

and hobbycity requires that i ship back the defective battery for replacement. AT MY EXPENSE

06.12.2009, 01:25 PM
That is not cool. I checked my 4 packs and they are ok. I'm trying to figure out how the cells and connectors of this pack of yours are configured.

06.12.2009, 05:27 PM
mistercrash I too got my turnagy packs today.
2 5000mah 3s 25c packs
one was perfect but in the other pack one of the cells is reversed. The cell voltages are
Total 3.65
C1 3.64
C2 -3.66
C3 3.65

and hobbycity requires that i ship back the defective battery for replacement. AT MY EXPENSE

That really blows. Maybe you could do the repair yourself or have james do it for ya. Probably cheaper than 2-way shipping to china.

06.12.2009, 06:33 PM
Wow, talk about an easy way to blow something up if you didn't catch it before using it.
Edit: wait wait....What does the total voltage of the pack read? Is it only the balance node that is in the wrong order?

revo guy
06.12.2009, 07:06 PM
nope the total voltage is 3.65

06.12.2009, 07:07 PM
Probably mis-soldered.

06.13.2009, 07:04 PM
Today I found some time to put some Deans connectors on the 4 Turnigy packs. I charged them using my CellPro 10S and took one pair of them for a spin in the ERBE. The performance is very good, I don't detect any difference between those Turnigys and my 2S1P Neu 5500 mah 30C/50C packs. I did not have time to find out how long they ran before hitting the LVC which is set at 3.2 V. Maybe tomorrow. The fit in the ERBE's battery compartments is tight to say the least because of the 10 AWG wires coming out of the side corner. If you don't have those little spacers installed on the battery doors (check earlier in this thread) you will have some difficulties closing them.

Here's some numbers on the internal resistance of each cell that came from my charger after the packs were charged to 100% capacity.

Pack 1:
cell 1 = 1.6 milliohms, cell 2 = 1.8 milliohms

Pack 2:
cell 1 = 1.6 milliohms, cell 2 = 1.8 milliohms

Pack 3:
cell 1 = 1.6 milliohms, cell 2 = 1.8 milliohms

Pack 4:
cell 1 = 1.8 milliohms, cell 2 = 1.7 milliohms

Am I correct in saying that these low internal resistance numbers are a good sign that these packs are truly 20C/30C? And not 15C/20C. I read somewhere that higher C rate cells have lower internal resistance.

06.14.2009, 11:43 AM
If anyone is interested in this, I finished running the first set of Turnigys I charged up yesterday. Sorry but no total runtime for now. My LVC is set to 3.2 V and I ran the packs until it kicked in. I let the packs cool down for an hour and hooked them up to the charger to recharge them. This is what the numbers were after the charge. Next time I should hook up the CellPro to the laptop so that I don't have to type this again :lol:

Pack 1:
Cell resistance - cell1 = 1.5 cell2 = 1.7
mah back in 4952
Volts just after charging 8.408

Pack 4:
Cell resistance - cell1 = 1.7 cell2 = 1.6
mah back in 5048
Volts just after charging 8.410

06.14.2009, 03:07 PM
What did u make those blocks out of.

06.14.2009, 03:54 PM
What did u make those blocks out of.

If you're talking about the servo blocks, they are made out of 3 mm thick twill weaved carbon fiber.

06.14.2009, 03:57 PM
I am trying to stop smoking. I needed to do something to keep me busy so I made this carbon fiber MMM holder. Not really necessary but it looks cool. Problem is... I'm done and I want a frikkin' smoke :grrrrrr:

http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w202/mistercrash1964/ERevo/th_cf_mmm_holder1.jpg (http://s177.photobucket.com/albums/w202/mistercrash1964/ERevo/?action=view&current=cf_mmm_holder1.jpg)

06.14.2009, 04:00 PM

06.14.2009, 07:15 PM
Whatever you say kid. :mdr:

I ran the second pair of Turnigys 2S1P 5000 mah tonight and got 15 full minutes of hard running. More like a race simulation than bashing. Not bad and the power was very very good. I'll let them cool down and recharge them later tonight. Right now, I'm very happy with these batteries that I bought for $19.99 each.

That CF holder I made for the MMM did very well. The MMM didn't move. And by the way, that MMM I accidently ran on 10S a couple weeks back is still running like a champ. Go figure.

06.14.2009, 09:25 PM
If you're talking about the servo blocks, they are made out of 3 mm thick twill weaved carbon fiber.

no i mean the diff blocks

06.16.2009, 09:15 AM
ok, sorry about that. The diff blocks were made out of a piece of cutting board bought at the dollar store.

06.16.2009, 09:57 AM
After recharging the second set of Turnigys, this is what I got for numbers.

Pack 2:
Cell resistance - cell1 = 1.6 cell2 = 1.7
mah back in 4809
Volts just after charging 8.409

Pack 3:
Cell resistance - cell1 = 1.6 cell2 = 1.6
mah back in 5025
Volts just after charging 8.410

I think I'm going to run 1 and 2 together and 3 and 4 together.

06.16.2009, 01:30 PM
Thanks man, and can you help me with my problem. Check it out, its called diff problems

06.18.2009, 12:56 PM
I received my new MMM yesterday. I put it on, changed the settings to the ones I like and tried it. And....... It runs just like the other one :lol: I don't like the puky green color of the motor though. I also put a Traxxas red aluminum pushrod for the rear body mount brace.

http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w202/mistercrash1964/ERevo/th_new_mmm1.jpg (http://s177.photobucket.com/albums/w202/mistercrash1964/ERevo/?action=view&current=new_mmm1.jpg)

06.20.2009, 08:44 AM
Anyone else do this? I have a set of Neu batteries that have rather short leads on them and it was difficult to make the connections when they exited from the side of the battery compartments so I cut the fins out of the air outlets and I route the wires out of there. I do it with all my lipos now and I like it.

http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w202/mistercrash1964/ERevo/th_air_channels1.jpg (http://s177.photobucket.com/albums/w202/mistercrash1964/ERevo/?action=view&current=air_channels1.jpg)

06.20.2009, 04:16 PM
It's raining outside. So I thought of making mud flaps out of Gorilla Tape and will try them out. At first glance and feel, they might be the toughest mud flaps I have tried. The hard rubber flaps I made earlier are still good, I just wanted to try something different and see if it works.

materials needed:
my mud flaps template (http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w202/mistercrash1964/ERevo/Mud%20flaps/revo_mud_flap_template1-1.jpg) printed on a 8.5 by 11 sheet of paper.
about 34 inches of Gorilla tape (http://www.gorillatough.com/tapes.aspx)
some transparent packing tape or pieces of Scotch Tape.
straight edge
hobby knife with new blade
something to punch holes with
6 tie wraps

I started by laying two 7 inch strips of Gorilla Tape side by side, sticky side up

http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w202/mistercrash1964/ERevo/Mud%20flaps/th_gorilla_tape_mud_flaps1.jpg (http://s177.photobucket.com/albums/w202/mistercrash1964/ERevo/Mud%20flaps/?action=view&current=gorilla_tape_mud_flaps1.jpg)

then I stuck four 4 inch strips side by side and perpendicular to the first 2 strips

http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w202/mistercrash1964/ERevo/Mud%20flaps/th_gorilla_tape_mud_flaps2.jpg (http://s177.photobucket.com/albums/w202/mistercrash1964/ERevo/Mud%20flaps/?action=view&current=gorilla_tape_mud_flaps2.jpg)

next I put one 7 inch strip in the middle

http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w202/mistercrash1964/ERevo/Mud%20flaps/th_gorilla_tape_mud_flaps3.jpg (http://s177.photobucket.com/albums/w202/mistercrash1964/ERevo/Mud%20flaps/?action=view&current=gorilla_tape_mud_flaps3.jpg)

and finally, the last 7 inch strip is split in half along it's length and stuck on either side of the last strip that I put in the middle

http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w202/mistercrash1964/ERevo/Mud%20flaps/th_gorilla_tape_mud_flaps4.jpg (http://s177.photobucket.com/albums/w202/mistercrash1964/ERevo/Mud%20flaps/?action=view&current=gorilla_tape_mud_flaps4.jpg)

I taped a template with packing tape so that it wouldn't move

http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w202/mistercrash1964/ERevo/Mud%20flaps/th_gorilla_tape_mud_flaps5.jpg (http://s177.photobucket.com/albums/w202/mistercrash1964/ERevo/Mud%20flaps/?action=view&current=gorilla_tape_mud_flaps5.jpg)

using my hobby knife and a straight edge, I cut on the lines of the template and the soon to be mud flap underneath.

http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w202/mistercrash1964/ERevo/Mud%20flaps/th_gorilla_tape_mud_flaps6.jpg (http://s177.photobucket.com/albums/w202/mistercrash1964/ERevo/Mud%20flaps/?action=view&current=gorilla_tape_mud_flaps6.jpg)

I used this simple little thing to punch holes in paper to punch the holes for the tie wraps.

http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w202/mistercrash1964/ERevo/Mud%20flaps/th_gorilla_tape_mud_flaps7.jpg (http://s177.photobucket.com/albums/w202/mistercrash1964/ERevo/Mud%20flaps/?action=view&current=gorilla_tape_mud_flaps7.jpg) http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w202/mistercrash1964/ERevo/Mud%20flaps/th_gorilla_tape_mud_flaps8.jpg (http://s177.photobucket.com/albums/w202/mistercrash1964/ERevo/Mud%20flaps/?action=view&current=gorilla_tape_mud_flaps8.jpg)

I used a Sharpie to color the edges for a finishing touch.

http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w202/mistercrash1964/ERevo/Mud%20flaps/th_gorilla_tape_mud_flaps9.jpg (http://s177.photobucket.com/albums/w202/mistercrash1964/ERevo/Mud%20flaps/?action=view&current=gorilla_tape_mud_flaps9.jpg)

Here they are installed, they look kinda cool, like leather mud flaps.

http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w202/mistercrash1964/ERevo/Mud%20flaps/th_gorilla_tape_mud_flaps10.jpg (http://s177.photobucket.com/albums/w202/mistercrash1964/ERevo/Mud%20flaps/?action=view&current=gorilla_tape_mud_flaps10.jpg)

06.22.2009, 10:08 PM
I had a couple PMs of people asking me about the dimension of the shafts for the Thunder Tiger center diff. Here's a pic of the shafts with the dimensions.

http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w202/mistercrash1964/ERevo/Thunder%20Tiger%20S3%20CD/th_tra5415_tra5416_shafts1.jpg (http://s177.photobucket.com/albums/w202/mistercrash1964/ERevo/Thunder%20Tiger%20S3%20CD/?action=view&current=tra5415_tra5416_shafts1.jpg)

06.22.2009, 10:26 PM
Cool MC, I'm adding these pics to the collection that I allready have of mine and yours....I also had a PM today about the CD as well.... for parts info...ect., it seems there is becoming a interest in this diff design, I have sent the info to Mike twice and have yet to hear anything from him...maybe at the bash, I could talk to him....

06.23.2009, 01:52 PM
It would be cool to have someone market an 8th CD for the ERevo. But keeping the selling price under let's say $60 is quite the challenge IMHO.

One thing that I haven't discussed in this thread is weight. The total weight of the truck. Many of the parts used on the ERBE are from the nitro 3.3 version. So originally, those parts were designed for a truck that weighs 10 pounds or less. A RTR ERBE with beadlocks and a couple 4S lipos in parallel can weigh much more than 10 pounds which I think can put a lot of strain on many components that came from the 3.3. So how much does your ERBE or conversion weigh? It would be cool to see if there is a big difference between conversions and ERBEs, or if there are big differences between ERBEs and ERBEs or conversions and conversions. To seriously compare the weight of different trucks, I say to weight them without tires/wheels and without batteries because there are huge differences in weights of tires, wheels and batteries. So take off the batteries, the wheels, put back the nuts, body and body clips on and weigh the truck.

Here's the weight of my ERBE:

3352 grams or 7.39 pounds.

06.27.2009, 08:47 PM
I got a couple LST2 diffs on ebay for cheap because I thought it would be nice to build a couple spares for my ERevo. So in the process of shaving a little off the thickness of the diff cases to have them fit in the ERevo's bulkheads, I ruined one set of cases by taking off too much. So now I have one complete spare diff built and one diff without a case. No big deal.
Looking At that case less diff I thought, I bet I could make a center diff out of it. So I did, but instead of going with threaded holes in the ring gear, I made three holes, counter sunk from the inside of the gear to secure threaded stand offs with flat head screws, the output gear will be screwed on the other end of the stand offs on the outside of the ring gear. I saw this idea somewhere but I can't find where exactly. I wish I could because I would mention the name of the person who came up with the idea of the stand offs. It was much easier to just make holes in the ring gear and not have to put M3 threads in them. Another thing I like about it is that it is actually smaller from end to end than the stock Traxxas center diff so it will be easy to position it perfectly with shims inside the tranny. And it is thin enough to use the output gear to it's full thickness, no need to sand it down on the belt sander to make it fit.

http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w202/mistercrash1964/ERevo/Losi%20center%20diff/th_losi_cd1.jpg (http://s177.photobucket.com/albums/w202/mistercrash1964/ERevo/Losi%20center%20diff/?action=view&current=losi_cd1.jpg) http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w202/mistercrash1964/ERevo/Losi%20center%20diff/th_losi_cd2.jpg (http://s177.photobucket.com/albums/w202/mistercrash1964/ERevo/Losi%20center%20diff/?action=view&current=losi_cd2.jpg) http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w202/mistercrash1964/ERevo/Losi%20center%20diff/th_losi_cd3.jpg (http://s177.photobucket.com/albums/w202/mistercrash1964/ERevo/Losi%20center%20diff/?action=view&current=losi_cd3.jpg) http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w202/mistercrash1964/ERevo/Losi%20center%20diff/th_losi_cd4.jpg (http://s177.photobucket.com/albums/w202/mistercrash1964/ERevo/Losi%20center%20diff/?action=view&current=losi_cd4.jpg)

06.27.2009, 10:07 PM
did you use revo output shafts? is the gear you are using from a e-revo center diff or the gear that the e-revo comes stock with?

06.28.2009, 09:56 AM
I used the TRA5415 and TRA5416 shafts from the nitro Revo center diff. I cut them to the right length and put a hole for the pin. The gear is TRA3984X so yes it is the output gear that came with my ERevo Brushless Edition.

06.28.2009, 08:50 PM
Sweet. I think Mike sell something very similar as an upgrade to the stock unit, a sister product to the slipperential :yes:

06.29.2009, 12:48 PM
Sweet. I think Mike sell something very similar as an upgrade to the stock unit, a sister product to the slipperential :yes:

Really, I didn't know that, never saw it in the RCM products. If you have a link that would be swell.

One of my bearings felt very notchy in a rear axle carrier so I decided to change it and check the other ones too. My carriers were starting to show signs of wear so I decided to change them. Instead of going to the same Traxxas carriers, which I like very much, I reinstalled my RD Racing carriers I had lying around and I will run those for a while. I forgot how great they are, the suspension moves very freely but it feels really tight, by that I mean there is no slop at all. Just for the heck of it, I took the metal rings off the Traxxas carriers and press fitted them on to the RD Racing ones. They don't really need it but I wanted to see if the rings would fit and they do.

http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w202/mistercrash1964/ERevo/th_rd_racing_carriers1.jpg (http://s177.photobucket.com/albums/w202/mistercrash1964/ERevo/?action=view&current=rd_racing_carriers1.jpg)

06.29.2009, 06:45 PM
This is news to me as well

06.30.2009, 12:58 PM

That ment to say "should sell"...


06.30.2009, 01:42 PM
Yes I forget to type words also, it happens me all time. It would be very cool to have a RC Monster 8th scale CD for the ERevo. We already have the hybrid diffs (been eyeing those recently) so an 8th scale center diff would be awsome for a complete 8th scale drive train. It could even be ordered with the gear you need for either the ERevo or 3.3 nitro Revo.

07.01.2009, 12:30 PM
I had this Duratrax Pit Tech car stand I wasn't using so I modified it to use with my truck. It just needed a stronger base and to be a bit taller. It is sturdy and swivles on a bearing.

http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w202/mistercrash1964/ERevo/th_truck_stand1.jpg (http://s177.photobucket.com/albums/w202/mistercrash1964/ERevo/?action=view&current=truck_stand1.jpg) http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w202/mistercrash1964/ERevo/th_truck_stand2.jpg (http://s177.photobucket.com/albums/w202/mistercrash1964/ERevo/?action=view&current=truck_stand2.jpg)

07.03.2009, 01:40 PM
I got this VW Baja body. I have a simple theme for it that should be cool. Now that it is trimmed, I am wondering if I should use the wing or not. With no wing, I think it looks good, the body is very strong and the top is high above the motor so I bet it will protect the inside of the truck. Also without a wing, the truck would be a little lighter. But since this truck is mainly used for racing, I wonder if it will affect it's jumping characteristics if there is no wing. With the wing, I would have to loose the body's engine compartment completely.

I don't know :neutral:

http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w202/mistercrash1964/ERevo/Body/th_vw_baja2.jpg (http://s177.photobucket.com/albums/w202/mistercrash1964/ERevo/Body/?action=view&current=vw_baja2.jpg) http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w202/mistercrash1964/ERevo/Body/th_vw_baja1.jpg (http://s177.photobucket.com/albums/w202/mistercrash1964/ERevo/Body/?action=view&current=vw_baja1.jpg) http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w202/mistercrash1964/ERevo/Body/th_vw_baja3.jpg (http://s177.photobucket.com/albums/w202/mistercrash1964/ERevo/Body/?action=view&current=vw_baja3.jpg)

07.03.2009, 05:45 PM
i think you should not use the wing with the bug body. do you have any video of ur truck in action?

07.04.2009, 07:56 AM
use the wing it will look like its very competitive but your still there to have fun lol

07.04.2009, 01:44 PM
I'm there to have competitive fun :mdr: I will keep the wing off to start and see how the truck reacts in the air. I don't think it will make a big difference. I'm going with an Herbie the love bug theme with a twist by the way. Since this truck was named ''ERBE'' (E Revo Brushless Edition). ERBE is the official name, I don't care about the other names anyone can come up with, ERBE is official :tongue:

http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w202/mistercrash1964/ERevo/th_1aef38ad.jpg (http://s177.photobucket.com/albums/w202/mistercrash1964/ERevo/?action=view&current=1aef38ad.jpg)

07.04.2009, 02:39 PM
I have a e- slayer roller if any body is interested I'm asking 275.... I have the 3.3 motor as well that has never been ran other than the break in.. Cjmc4chris@gmail.com

07.04.2009, 04:24 PM
MC or any one else, this weekend , I took out my 1/8 scale CD, and replaced the 30k oil with 50k oil, the reason I did this, is i wasn't happy with the front unloading a little in the front end when I was running on the track, and so far I'm happy with it's results....MC, what are you running at this point?

07.04.2009, 05:06 PM
What's with the for sale ad? :oh:

sjcrss, I was a bit unhappy with 30k also so I mixed 30k and 50k to get around 40k and tried that. Then I did the same thing you did and just put 50k in my CD and I am still running this to this day. It still unloads, although much less, but wheelies sometimes so with some throttle control, I like it better with 50k.

Work began on the Baja body today, I found some pics of Herbie the love bug on the net and did what I could to replicate the stripes and the 53 number. I also made a special ERBE decal. I printed the decals on cheap photo paper and glued them on the inside of the body with XXX Main Lexan picture glue (http://www.xxxmain.com/glue.shtml). I have to let it set for 12 hours. I hope Disney doesn't sue for Copyrights.

I couldn't find rattle cans of the exact color for the body, Herbie is painted in some kind of Pearl grayish white. So I'll try a thin coat of white backed with silver in hopes that it resembles the real thing. I will also have a light gray patch on the roof to replicate Herbie's soft top. You probably notice that I didn't trim the body on the lines made by Proline, it just hads so much struture to the Baja by leaving a little Lexan all around. I also left a lot of Lexan below the doors to cover the ERBE's battery doors.

http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w202/mistercrash1964/ERevo/Body/th_erbe1.jpg (http://s177.photobucket.com/albums/w202/mistercrash1964/ERevo/Body/?action=view&current=erbe1.jpg) http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w202/mistercrash1964/ERevo/Body/th_erbe2.jpg (http://s177.photobucket.com/albums/w202/mistercrash1964/ERevo/Body/?action=view&current=erbe2.jpg) http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w202/mistercrash1964/ERevo/Body/th_erbe3.jpg (http://s177.photobucket.com/albums/w202/mistercrash1964/ERevo/Body/?action=view&current=erbe3.jpg)

07.04.2009, 05:48 PM
Thanks for the info about the oil, so far I like the 50k, but like you said throttle control is still needed, as i can still wheelie if I'm not easy on the throttle....the body looks great so far....looking forward to seeing it finished....

07.04.2009, 10:22 PM
what gearing are you running in your e-revo with 4s?

07.04.2009, 10:41 PM
im running the following setup
20/68 gearing
using my 1/8 scale CD w/ 50k fluid , that MC is using the same diff as well

07.04.2009, 10:57 PM
I couldn't wait 12 hours for the picture glue to cure so as soon as it felt cured enough, I put a thin coat of white and backed it with silver. The pics show the body whiter than it really is. I'm satisfied with the effect of the white and silver, it is very light gray like the real Herbie and has a definite pearl sheen to it. I like it. The body doesn't come with a wing, in the scrap Lexan left after trimming, I saw a piece that could become a wind for it so I made it but left it clear.

http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w202/mistercrash1964/ERevo/Body/th_erbe6.jpg (http://s177.photobucket.com/albums/w202/mistercrash1964/ERevo/Body/?action=view&current=erbe6.jpg) http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w202/mistercrash1964/ERevo/Body/th_erbe5.jpg (http://s177.photobucket.com/albums/w202/mistercrash1964/ERevo/Body/?action=view&current=erbe5.jpg) http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w202/mistercrash1964/ERevo/Body/th_erbe4.jpg (http://s177.photobucket.com/albums/w202/mistercrash1964/ERevo/Body/?action=view&current=erbe4.jpg)

07.05.2009, 01:25 PM
looks good. i can see some of the pearl color in it

07.05.2009, 11:27 PM
that's tight mrcrash I'm liking it alot!:great:

07.06.2009, 01:57 PM
Thanks guys, I went racing this weekend but couldn't convince myself of running this body yet. :smile:

I am wondering after this weekend's race. After a 15 minute main, running Neu 3900 mah 4S in parallel, geared for 40 mph, My whole system was pretty hot. Motor 185, ESC 165 and batts 130. Ambient temperature was in the mid 80s, I have holes in the body for ventilation. The track has a new layout with two long straights that lets the MMM breathe almost to max rpm. Could it be that the CD, which always unloads to the front a bit more to prevent wheelies, puts too much strain on the system because it revs too high a lot of the time especially if the CD unloads too much in certain parts of the track? Because of the loss of traction due to the CD unloading, I think more throttle input is applied trying to get the same amount of acceleration as with a solid axle in the tranny. Does this make sense? I know my gearing is fine, I absolutely know that my drive train rolls very freely with no biding anywhere.
I seriously think that with the MMM's torque, a CD may not be beneficial and a solid axle with better throttle control might make me faster with lower temps and less strain on the MMM and batts.

What is everyone's take on this?

07.06.2009, 05:17 PM
MC, im not sure what to tell you about the CD, im running the 50k, and my front end stays down pretty well, as long as i don't get heavy on the throttle...what is the gear ratio for the LST2 diff that you made into a CD?.....that could effect the overall ratio possibly...just a thought is all...

07.07.2009, 11:25 AM
Next time at the track, I'll try a couple things. First, I will gear down to 35 or 36 mph instead of 40 and see what happens. I want to try thickening the CD a bit, maybe mix 50k and 100k to get around 70 or 75k. Finally I will try a solid axle to see how the truck handles.

07.07.2009, 12:27 PM
hey mistercrash, what weight diff oil are you using in your lst2 diffs and what gearing are you using?

07.07.2009, 11:06 PM
Right now I'm running 10k front and 5k rear. I use 54 spur and 22 pinion. I will try 56/20 next time.

07.08.2009, 08:14 AM
well mrcrash..
following in your footsteps ive begun the mods to my revo (2.5, 3905 convert)
yesterday the imperial screws i needed finally arrived and i put in the threaded inserts to the bulkheads:yipi:
bet it's loads stronger now.

and so far for the record ive had about 2.5 hours racetime on the summit driveshafts and they are showing minimal ware:intello:
just a note on the summit shafts tho...there are 2 grub screw threaded holes in the CV's..yet the summit shafts only come with enough parts to put the grub screw in one side only, so if when you do the driveshaft conversion (seems like a good idea to me) try and get some extra grub screws, i have a hunch that they are the same grub screws that come in 32p pinion gears (5mm shaft ones)

gotta save up for the diffs now to copy you some more:lol:
ive only got stocker E-revo diffs (CD too w/ ofna 500k) and i bet they suck compared to the LST diffs.

has anyone tryed the Torsion diffs from ofna or the Losi smart diff in their revo?


07.08.2009, 11:23 AM
MC your the man, been using your revo as inspiration for mine.. started life as a 2.5r, getting the 3.3 chasis and body, e-revo trans and lst diffs.... not much of the original truck will be left :lol:

also thanks to all the other who inspired my inspiration, linc, sjrss(sp), etc. :yes:

07.08.2009, 02:28 PM
also thanks to all the other who inspired my inspiration, linc, sjrss(sp), etc. :yes:

How do you inspire an inspiration?

07.08.2009, 04:13 PM
Thanks for the words of inspire of inspiration, as to B.boy's question about the smart diff, I've been kicking the idea around about putting on in my erevo, using the mod ring gear that i came up with, but i have been talking to the gassers, and they have told me that the springs fail sometimes, and honestly, there is a whole lot of stuff to remove , just to replace the springs in the CD, for now..I'm running 50k in the CD for now...but i will see about the other..I havn't fully committed to it yet....however, myself and MC have info for anyone who want to do the mod to the CD for the erevo....also a great big thumbs up to you MC, for keeping the thread alive, along with the variations of the original design....

07.09.2009, 07:20 AM
MC your the man, been using your revo as inspiration for mine.. started life as a 2.5r, getting the 3.3 chasis and body

why get the 3.3 chassis?
in MY experience hte 2.5 chassis handels better...well on the race track at least, dunno why the 3.3 chassis is always considered to be supirior.
i reckon the best setup you can have on a nitro revo is a 2.5 chassis and mod it to take a rear break kit and CD!! OMG it goes soo much better than the 3.3 w/ CD and rear brake

so i used the same principle and use a 2.5 chassis and a CD.

guess it's every man to themself. :great:

as for center diff..i run ofna 500k in the yuckey traxxas diff and my temps are ok
i'm geared for 45mph ish on 5s w/ the MMM 2200 combo and after the highest load bashing i can dish up the MMM fan only comes on for about 3 secs and motor never gets to 120.
even after a 30 min main race the whole system is cool (120 max motor).
so i dont think the un-loading CD is causing the issue.

07.09.2009, 10:47 AM
Well I never thought this would happen but my 8th scale center diff failed. The diff cup broke. I think it is my fault because I turned down the cup a little bit for more clearance which I'm sure weakened it. So I replaced it with a new unmodified cup and I went to extremes and put 100k in the diff and will see how I like it.

This is what I did to the cup before. The stock cup on the right and the modified on the left. Not a good idea as the whole center part of the diff cup broke off.

http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w202/mistercrash1964/eight%20scale%20center%20diff/th_aacc8f9c.jpg (http://s177.photobucket.com/albums/w202/mistercrash1964/eight%20scale%20center%20diff/?action=view&current=aacc8f9c.jpg) http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w202/mistercrash1964/eight%20scale%20center%20diff/th_4a80c664.jpg (http://s177.photobucket.com/albums/w202/mistercrash1964/eight%20scale%20center%20diff/?action=view&current=4a80c664.jpg)

07.09.2009, 05:11 PM
Are there no alu cups?

07.09.2009, 06:16 PM
I don't think a aluminum cup is needed, i think what is happening, is when MC, does a small modification, like trimming or something ( don't get upset on me), this tends to weaken the part, I have been running my same original 1st prototype 1/8 hyper CD, and havn't had a single issue at all, not even a small one, I inspected the whole thing this weekend when I switched out the 30k for 50k fluid, and saw no visual wear in the cup, gears, modded shafts or reng gear, the bearings all rolled freely as well.

07.09.2009, 06:49 PM
That too...

07.10.2009, 11:13 PM
I haven't had a chance to try the truck on the track but I'm liking how it handles on the street and grass with 100k in the CD. With some throttle control, accelerations are better than before with less unloading to the front. I'll keep on running it to see if I will stay with 100k. Up to now, it's good. I don't think I will ever try to go higher though.

07.12.2009, 08:30 PM
I was at the track today for open practice and I got to run many batt cycles with the repaired CD with 100k. The truck ran awsome, I really like it and I am going to stick with this set up. A lot less unloading to the front but no wheelies. Wheelies only happen on asphalt, not on dirt. The temps were a lot better also with the new gearing. After a 25 minute run of pushing hard, with ambient temp in the mid eighties much like last time, motor = 140, ESC = 125, batts = 120.

07.13.2009, 06:29 AM
glad to hear you found a setup that you like & works for you....for know I'm pleased with 50k in the center for me and with my gearing 20/68 as well. Any more suprise updates coming?

07.13.2009, 10:15 AM
Any more suprise updates coming?

I don't know what I could do or mod on this truck that would be categorized as a surprise update. I'm out of ideas for now. I have been thinking of a 4 mm thick tempered steel motor plate. I don't think the ERBE would even notice the few grams added in weight compared to the double aluminum plates I'm using now. A steel motor plate would definitely not flex like aluminum. But I haven't had any problems with the double alu plate I use now, other than some flexing under hard landings. And aluminum is better at dissipating heat.
My Deans connectors disconnected on two occasions while racing. Now I tape the connections with a piece of electrical tape and that solved the problem but it's a PITA. I'm thinking of going to 5.5 mm bullets but I'm afraid to make a mistake with connecting them when I'm in a hurry. I don't pay too much attention to what I'm doing sometimes and I don't want to make anything go poof :mdr:
Also, I have had one occasion when one of my battery door opened and I was dragging one of my Neu lipos in the dirt :oh: So I want to come up with something that will keep those doors shut no matter what.

07.13.2009, 10:34 AM
Velcro around the battery compartment?

Switch to EC5's or PowerPoles, I heard EC5's are a PITA to remove...

07.13.2009, 01:25 PM
Mistercrash, I had my E-revo out racing last night for the first time and had similar problems. My deans plugs came unpluged multiple times and I had a battery fall out 3 times!! One i didnt notice dragging untill i saw it dangling underneath my truck as it sored over the 30 foot feature jump!!!!!

Luckily the battery survived and is still in top working order, but i will be working on preventing it from happening again as it tends to slow you down on the track.

07.13.2009, 01:47 PM
I was lucky also that my battery didn't get damaged. Love the Pocoyo avatar.

For the battery doors, I thought of a strap of something tough, like Kydex, bent into an L shape. One end bolted to the side of the doors and the other end would have a 1/4 inch hole to snap on a short body post screwed on top of the batt compartment. Once the strap is snapped on the body post, a body clip would go through the body post to keep the strap in place.

I looked at EC5s a few times, seems like good stuff but expensive. I wouldn't mind if I had four or 6 lipos but when you run with twenty lipos and you have to make a parallel connector and the charger plugs to charge two lipos at a time, it ads up quickly. I know some will say that this hobby is expensive and that I should not try to cut costs but I can't be spending money like there's no tomorrow. Can't afford to do that but I still want to be a part of this hobby so cutting costs is part of the game for me. I'm going to try these (http://www.hobbycity.com/hobbycity/store/uh_viewItem.asp?idProduct=2087), I will use the females on the lipos with color coded heat shrink, the kind I get at the electronics supply store, very thick and tough with hot glue inside. It should be good at preventing the two leads from making contact. I have seen others use these bullets with great results.

07.13.2009, 05:00 PM
Why not that velcro for the trays instead of going through the work of kydex?

Those seem to be quite nice mistercrash...

Have you looked into powerpoles? They have powerpole retainer springs to keep them in place, until you pull off the retainer, then you can unplug it...

Looks really neat..

07.13.2009, 11:39 PM
Yeah I looked at PowerPoles too. They seem to be very good and versatile. I don't know, seems like any talk about connectors brings different opinions from everyone and you end up with the same question: Which one to get? :mdr: I tried the EC3... Didn't like them. I tried the Deans... Better but still some problems with them. Now I'm going to try those 5.5 bullets and how I like those. What a great way I have to cut costs eh! :rofl: :whistle: If the bullets don't work out for me then PowerPoles it will be.
I came up with an idea for the batt doors. I should start making some parts tomorrow. I don't want to use Velcro. Velcro is great when brand new, but I find it quickly looses it's ability to hold together the more you use it. Just my personal opinion from personal experience. A tough plastic part that holds onto a tough plastic body post with a metal body clip will hold strongly every time... Unless it breaks. If the little system I have in mind breaks then a piece of Velcro wouldn't stand a chance.

07.14.2009, 12:12 AM

That's why you go with industrial strong Velcro silly! :lol:

Do let us know how you like those 5.5mms....

I need to pick up some more 4.5mm for my hardcase to rig up some new connectors!

07.14.2009, 12:09 PM
No Pocoyo! No Velcro! :smile:

I did one side this morning. I used parts of what I think is a TMaxx rear body post. Don't know why I had that. The high lighted parts are what I used. I secured it to the top of the batt compartment with an M4 flat head screw, countersunk in the plastic so that the inside of the compartment stays flat and smooth. I will try thick Lexan for starters to see if it holds up, I cut it in the shape I wanted and secured it to the batt door with 4 M3 flathead screws and nuts. Those screws are counter sunk also inside the batt door. I have a feeling this is going to work very well.

http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w202/mistercrash1964/ERevo/Battery%20doors/th_batt_doors1.jpg (http://s177.photobucket.com/albums/w202/mistercrash1964/ERevo/Battery%20doors/?action=view&current=batt_doors1.jpg) http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w202/mistercrash1964/ERevo/Battery%20doors/th_batt_doors2.jpg (http://s177.photobucket.com/albums/w202/mistercrash1964/ERevo/Battery%20doors/?action=view&current=batt_doors2.jpg) http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w202/mistercrash1964/ERevo/Battery%20doors/th_batt_doors3.jpg (http://s177.photobucket.com/albums/w202/mistercrash1964/ERevo/Battery%20doors/?action=view&current=batt_doors3.jpg) http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w202/mistercrash1964/ERevo/Battery%20doors/th_batt_doors4.jpg (http://s177.photobucket.com/albums/w202/mistercrash1964/ERevo/Battery%20doors/?action=view&current=batt_doors4.jpg)

07.14.2009, 01:32 PM
All done. It's gonna work. The Lexan pieces are from scrap from a body, once I knew what I wanted to do, the whole mod took a little less than an hour to make.

http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w202/mistercrash1964/ERevo/Battery%20doors/th_batt_doors5.jpg (http://s177.photobucket.com/albums/w202/mistercrash1964/ERevo/Battery%20doors/?action=view&current=batt_doors5.jpg) http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w202/mistercrash1964/ERevo/Battery%20doors/th_batt_doors6.jpg (http://s177.photobucket.com/albums/w202/mistercrash1964/ERevo/Battery%20doors/?action=view&current=batt_doors6.jpg)

07.14.2009, 04:37 PM
Wow.. Looks really neat, how did you bend the lexan?

07.14.2009, 06:56 PM
Looks good Mister crash, what else could you possibly do to this thing?

07.15.2009, 11:31 AM
I didn't have to bend the Lexan, I used a part that already had a bend in it. Scrap pieces left over after trimming a body.

07.20.2009, 12:38 AM
Running the ERBE today, I suddenly lost center diff action. I found this surprising as I just rebuilt the thing with a 100k diff lube. Once I took everything apart, I found out that the Stainless Steel output shafts I made seized in the output holes of the diff case and diff cap. It seems that Stainless Steel is not hard enough. Also, they were made out of a stainless steel rod that was 5.98 mm in diameter. It was probably just a tad too big. The modified TRA5415 and TRA5416 output shafts I used in my other diffs are a little smaller and have a bit more clearance so there's probably less rubbing and less heat build up because of the rubbing so they work much better. I tried the SS to keep cost down but using the Traxxas output shafts is better. There are marks on the SS shafts where they got grinded by the hardened steel of the diff case and cap.

http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w202/mistercrash1964/ERevo/Thunder%20Tiger%20S3%20CD/th_ss_output_shafts_grind1.jpg (http://s177.photobucket.com/albums/w202/mistercrash1964/ERevo/Thunder%20Tiger%20S3%20CD/?action=view&current=ss_output_shafts_grind1.jpg)

I also noticed that my motor was a little bit out of alignment with the chassis so I took out the two aluminum motor plates I was running and they are bent. It appears that 6 mm of aluminum is not enough. Of course they are made of a very cheap aluminum, not that stiff at all. A motor plate machined out of T6 7075 aluminum would probably not bend like that. I did the best I could to take pics of the plates next to a straight edge in front of a light source to show the bends. In the meantime, I went back to the 6 mm carbon fiber motor plate I was using at the beginning of this build.

http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w202/mistercrash1964/ERevo/Motor%20plate/th_motor_plate_alu_bent1.jpg (http://s177.photobucket.com/albums/w202/mistercrash1964/ERevo/Motor%20plate/?action=view&current=motor_plate_alu_bent1.jpg) http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w202/mistercrash1964/ERevo/Motor%20plate/th_motor_plate_alu_bent2.jpg (http://s177.photobucket.com/albums/w202/mistercrash1964/ERevo/Motor%20plate/?action=view&current=motor_plate_alu_bent2.jpg)

07.20.2009, 06:26 AM
you must race hard...or maby it's the E-revo's motor mount setup, i'm just using the little old 3mm blue motor mount that comes with the E-maxx trannies (single motor conversion of coarse)
and it's not bent:neutral:

07.20.2009, 11:08 AM
Are you using the plate that places the motor up in the center over the tranny instead of the ERBE's plate that place the motor to the side of the tranny? I have seen a few conversions that have the motor centered over the tranny. The way the ERBE is set up, the motor plate is secured to the tranny with 4 screws that are all on the left portion of the plate. The right portion houses the motor and is just floating with no support. With the weight of the motor hanging on it.

07.20.2009, 11:52 AM
Bummer. You can really see how much material has been ground away on the closeup shots of the outputs, quite nasty.

07.21.2009, 05:56 AM
Are you using the plate that places the motor up in the center over the tranny instead of the ERBE's plate that place the motor to the side of the tranny? I have seen a few conversions that have the motor centered over the tranny. The way the ERBE is set up, the motor plate is secured to the tranny with 4 screws that are all on the left portion of the plate. The right portion houses the motor and is just floating with no support. With the weight of the motor hanging on it.

yep that's what i have.
it must be absolutly rubbish for COG but i got used to it and cant feel much difference between my convert and a proper ERBE.

but my plate has not bent:surprised:

07.21.2009, 10:45 AM
Well if that's your truck in your avatar, I would say we have very similar racing styles :lol: So I don't know what made my motor plates bend like that. :neutral:

07.21.2009, 12:25 PM
Running my ERBE in the last few days, I noticed that it was easier to roll it over when making tight turns. I checked my sway bar set up and the front Tekno sway bar I run (Tekno front/Traxxas rear) has become so soft that it is now useless. Many don't beleive that the Tekno sway bars are prone to premature metal fatigue because they are too short and small. Here's a good proof. Longer and thicker sway bars don't have to bend as much and last longer. I replaced this Tekno sway bar with one I made. It is a bit thicker and taller so it will last longer. The same is installed on my nitro Revo and has been bash and race tested for over a year.

http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w202/mistercrash1964/ERevo/ERBE%20movies/th_tekno_swaybar_metal_fatigue1.jpg (http://s177.photobucket.com/albums/w202/mistercrash1964/ERevo/ERBE%20movies/?action=view&current=tekno_swaybar_metal_fatigue1.flv)

This is the Tekno sway bar I was using. The ends were bent upwards. Whether the ends are bent upwards or left stock, I experienced the same kind of premature metal fatigue.

http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w202/mistercrash1964/ERevo/sway%20bars/th_swaybars_front4.jpg (http://s177.photobucket.com/albums/w202/mistercrash1964/ERevo/sway%20bars/?action=view&current=swaybars_front4.jpg)

This is the sway bar I made out of 2.3 mm piano wire. This same sway bar has been working awsome on my nitro Revo.

http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w202/mistercrash1964/ERevo/sway%20bars/th_front_swaybar1.jpg (http://s177.photobucket.com/albums/w202/mistercrash1964/ERevo/sway%20bars/?action=view&current=front_swaybar1.jpg)

07.22.2009, 11:19 AM
Hey gang...

I wanted to go back to your discussion about battery connectors. I have done a lot of work in the car audio industry on power delivery in high-current applications. You would be very surprised at how limiting wire and connections can be.

I started off using Anderson connectors, but after some research on them for an OEM audio system project I am doing at work, found out they are only rated for 30 Amps of current at 65*C... Given that voltage is speed, I switched to Deans based on their reputation. I like the concept that there is good surface area and a solid connection.

The EC3 connectors look to me like a set of bullet connectors in a custom housing. I like the idea of the bullet connectors from Hobby City, but unless you can really feel how tight the connections are, it's hard to tell how well they will work.

I have been intending to contact one of the RC car magazines and offer to do a connector test to determine ultimately who offers the best connector - but I doubt any of them would go for it, since they would be bound to loose advertising from the 'not winning' companies..

Anyways, use the most solid connectors your can, we are drawing a LOT of current through already undersized wiring - the slightest increase in resistance from a connector can definitely reduce performance.

BTW mistercrash.. I still want to get out and see that beast run!

07.22.2009, 01:06 PM
Any testing you might do on connectors could be posted right here in this forum if the RC magazines are not interested. There would be a lot of interest in connector testing I suspect and what the final results would be. If you want to see my truck run, I will be at Hardcore RC race track (http://www.hardcoreracersrc.ca/index.html) Sunday the 26th to race in the club series race #4. Look for Raymond :smile: But no laughing at my driving ability :mdr:

07.22.2009, 04:38 PM
I sent an email to Derek at Xtreme... we'll see what they say.

I don't laugh at anyones driving.. it's all likely better than mine!

07.23.2009, 10:44 AM
Someone PMed me saying that the template for the mud flaps can't be seen on my Photobucket account so I'm sorry for the large pic, I am posting it directly in here in hopes that it can be seen and downloaded.


07.23.2009, 10:59 AM
i cant see the pic

07.23.2009, 11:44 AM
mistercrash.. email me the pic and I'll host it for you...

Weather permitting, my son and I will try and get out to hardcore for a quick visit.

BTW, if you are (or anyone else) is planning on ordering anything from hobby city, I'd like to get some new Lipo batteries.. maybe we can share some of the shipping costs..

07.23.2009, 12:23 PM
Can anyone see the pic now?

Dave, I have a lot of lipos that I am running right now, for now I don't wish to order anymore although these new ones from Zippy are tempting.

ZIPPY Flightmax 5000mAh 2S1P 30C hardcase pack (http://hobbycity.com/hobbycity/store/uh_viewItem.asp?idProduct=9436&Product_Name=ZIPPY_Flightmax_5000mAh_2S1P_30C_hard case_pack)

07.23.2009, 03:22 PM
pic still no worky

07.23.2009, 04:52 PM
If you want to sell some old ones to try some new ones, let me know.. I just need a pair that will work with my e-revo.. my 4000mAh NiMHs just don't have the balls...

07.23.2009, 05:27 PM
New Zippys?


I got my Turnigy's awhile ago, but have been waiting for my powerpoles to come...

07.23.2009, 07:41 PM
pic still no worky

Grrrr..... Any of these work? The link for the new Zippys is in the post above, just click on it.

http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w202/mistercrash1964/ERevo/Mud%20flaps/th_revo_mud_flap_template1.jpg (http://s177.photobucket.com/albums/w202/mistercrash1964/ERevo/Mud%20flaps/?action=view&current=revo_mud_flap_template1.jpg)


Template (http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w202/mistercrash1964/ERevo/Mud%20flaps/revo_mud_flap_template1.jpg)


07.23.2009, 08:03 PM
Both of the posts worked...

07.23.2009, 08:04 PM
The hardcased? They want $20 for a a case? =/

07.23.2009, 10:58 PM
These are the new hardcase Zippy Flightmax

http://hobbycity.com/hobbycity/store/uh_viewItem.asp?idProduct=9436&Product_Name=ZIPPY_Flightmax_5000mAh_2S1P_30C_hard case_pack

revo guy
07.23.2009, 11:39 PM
The hardcased? They want $20 for a a case? =/

Actually the prices are (not signed in)

ZIPPY Flightmax 5000mAh 2S1P 20C $28.84

ZIPPY Flightmax 5000mAh 2S1P 20C hardcase pack $33.57

ZIPPY Flightmax 5000mAh 2S1P 30C hardcase pack $46.69

So the case is only and extra $5

07.24.2009, 10:54 AM
Ah, I usually don't sign in until I am going to check out.

Dang, $33.57, I may have to pick some up now..

07.25.2009, 05:30 AM
Ah, I usually don't sign in until I am going to check out.

Dang, $33.57, I may have to pick some up now..
go for the 30C...trust me:wink:
if they fit that is.
yeah i guess we do drive the same hehe.
that was my old nitro revo in that pic...i'll update that avvy when todays race photo's come through.

no ive never bent mine at all...it'd be interesting if we could swap revo's for a race...too bad there is a long distance between us :(
maby you could try the E-maxx plate? you'd have to spin the tranny 180 and in theroy it should be a bad thing in a race CoG wise....but it'd be interesting nonetheless

07.25.2009, 06:00 AM
mistercrash : the trick for diff block dont work with the stock e-revo diff I put the complete diff in a birthday balloon and then put in into the bulkhead and seem more tight then before should work just fine ? ... I cut 3 holes for the diff output ... and checked my diff pinion and ring gear look like brand new and the pinion dont needed to be shimmed and I dont got any move side by side with the diff case too.. but once I opened the diff the seal were the screw goes was broke so the diff leak but not by alot anyways im going to buy a seal and change the diff fluid one day.. and I forget the bearing was all fine ;)

07.25.2009, 10:30 AM
Quessé t'as fait là toé sti! Mette té diffs dans dé balounes :mdr: Pourquoi pas du glaçage à gâteau dans l'diff tant qu'à y être :tongue: C't'une joke là :yes: Bin si ça marche çé tant mieux.

07.25.2009, 10:35 AM
un plan de neye comme quon dit :)

j'ai défait le diff avant aussi pis lui pas eu besoin de rien toucher il est parfaitement tight cétait seulement lui d'en arriere qui avait un lousse

07.25.2009, 02:33 PM

Hahha.. Sorry, had to do that...

Hey mistercrash, where did you get the piano wire?

OK, so, who's up for placing an order for Lipo's? Maybe I'll start a new thread?

07.25.2009, 03:15 PM
Dave... I'm down! I need 4 or more. 4 for sure.

07.25.2009, 08:17 PM

Hahha.. Sorry, had to do that...

Hey mistercrash, where did you get the piano wire?

The wires I have were available at my LHS in the airplane section. But I found this also. I ordered a pack of ten 18'' rods to try out.


07.25.2009, 09:47 PM
Thanks mistercrash...

Weather isn't looking too good for the race tomorrow.. calling for showers in the morning and afternoon...

07.25.2009, 10:32 PM

07.25.2009, 10:34 PM
Dang, that turned out good, I may have to make some out of some rubber tubing from a few bike tubes...

07.29.2009, 11:21 AM
The wires I have were available at my LHS in the airplane section. But I found this also. I ordered a pack of ten 18'' rods to try out.


Smallparts.com was fast in shipping the wires to me here in Ontario, Canada. I got them yesterday and what they sent me is better than what I was getting at the LHS. The wires are stiffer and are springier than what I was using before. So I went ahead and made a front sway bar right away and installed it.

http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w202/mistercrash1964/ERevo/sway%20bars/th_music_wire1.jpg (http://s177.photobucket.com/albums/w202/mistercrash1964/ERevo/sway%20bars/?action=view&current=music_wire1.jpg) http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w202/mistercrash1964/ERevo/sway%20bars/th_swaybars_front6.jpg (http://s177.photobucket.com/albums/w202/mistercrash1964/ERevo/sway%20bars/?action=view&current=swaybars_front6.jpg)

Update on the battery doors. They are awsome, I am absolutely confident that the doors will not open up while running anymore.

07.29.2009, 11:29 AM
Sweet stuff!

Have you tried the ejector pins that some people use for hinge pins on the EMaxx?

07.29.2009, 11:47 AM
I tried tool steel in the past with very good results but that was for on road cars. Never heard of the ejector pin EMaxx hinge pin thingamajigger. I was looking at this also. Might be good for those who like to go to extremes in saving weight.

Titanium 1/8th inch rod (http://www.smallparts.com/Titanium-CP-ASTM-B348-Rod-Diameter/dp/B001DE4DI2?ie=UTF8&qid=1248882187&pf_rd_r=075T7DKKW1S4BWK9VZ54&pf_rd_p=467590051&pf_rd_i=16414231&sr=1-5&pf_rd_s=center-3&pf_rd_m=AIUBT5HP6PMAF&pf_rd_t=101)

07.29.2009, 11:50 AM
I picked up on it awhile ago, when I was on the TRX forums (When I first started RC), they don't bend, they snap, which is why some guys used it, because it would snap instead of bending inside the bulkheads and AArms, and instead of pitchin for a new set of AARms and bulkheads, it'd be easy to remove since it snapped into a couple pieces...
I'll try and see if I can't find a link when I get home.

07.30.2009, 11:34 AM
I received my Polymax 5.5 mm bullet connectors from Hobby City this morning. They are big and nice and without wires on them, you need pliers to pull them apart. I am just wondering about that cut out where you solder the wires. I would have preferred a hole instead of a big cut out like that. To get these connectors undone, it would be necessary to pull on the wires so they have to be soldered correctly with a strong bond. I'm afraid these big cut outs limits the surface area where the wires are soldered onto, making that bond between wire and connector weaker. This is just speculation on my part as I haven't installed them. I looked at all my lipos I just redid with Deans and I don't feel like starting over again :lol:

http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w202/mistercrash1964/ERevo/Lipos/th_polymax_5_5_connectors.jpg (http://s177.photobucket.com/albums/w202/mistercrash1964/ERevo/Lipos/?action=view&current=polymax_5_5_connectors.jpg)

07.30.2009, 11:39 AM
I was going to pick those 5.5mm as well, let us (Mostly me!:lol:) how they work out, I was going to pick them up and transfer all my bullets from brushed stuff over, and then use them on my harnesses, but I'll need 4mm for my charger and lipos...

Let us know how they work!
And if you recommend them...

07.30.2009, 12:00 PM
Yeah, I don't like the idea of having to pull on the wires either. But really, there seems to be enuff area to solder to, and if you use good solder, even the smallest amount is SUPER strong. Many of the "pro type applications" with solder use very little. Solder isn't a good conductor of current, so less is better. I was told by an electrician that solders on a factory assembly line, that less is more, and it only takes a small amount to get a good strong bond. But then again, the stuff he's soldering isn't designed to be pulled on all the time either. So I don't know.

I'm thinking about getting some of those Hyperion Bullets. They look pretty nice. It seems that every has an opinion about what connectors are the best. I currently have CC 6.5's, and I guess they are fine. I don't like Deans simply because some of the ones I've used, which could have been knockoffs, are TOO tight. I have to pull on the wire to get them apart. A nice tight fit is great, but that's too tight I think. Is that caused by the casing getting too hot and melting a bit? Or is that the nature of "cheap" knock Deans... or the nature of "real" Deans? As I've said before somewhere... I really like the Traxxas connectors and Power Poles/Sermos. But the Sermos can't handle a ton of current. I beleive the Traxxas high current connectors can. I'd be using these on my ERBE too, but I don't know what to get. I need to get some connectors FAST because my ESC is now on it's way to me from Castle! And I need to get ready!

07.30.2009, 12:12 PM
I known what you mean jpop, my knockoffs get real hot as well on my BRUSHED KD970s, and that is pulling quite a bit of amps though...

I got me some PowerPoles, just waiting for them to arrive, I've been saying that for a good month or so :lol:, but they're coming!

07.30.2009, 01:19 PM
So looking at those Polymax bullets, I was thinking of putting the females on the batteries and males for the ESC and parallel harness. I put some heavy duty heat shrink that is 1 mm thick and has hot glue in it. I shrinked a female and male connector and I think it looks good. The heat shrink also comes in red so the connectors would color coded. The beauty of this heat shrink is that it has a high grip rubber feel to it so I can disconnect the bullets with my fingers even without wires on it which solves the problem of disconnecting by yanking on the wires. I'm just tinkering with them because I still don't feel like redoing all my connections :mdr:

http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w202/mistercrash1964/ERevo/Lipos/th_polymax_5_5_connectors2.jpg (http://s177.photobucket.com/albums/w202/mistercrash1964/ERevo/Lipos/?action=view&current=polymax_5_5_connectors2.jpg) http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w202/mistercrash1964/ERevo/Lipos/th_polymax_5_5_connectors1.jpg (http://s177.photobucket.com/albums/w202/mistercrash1964/ERevo/Lipos/?action=view&current=polymax_5_5_connectors1.jpg)

07.30.2009, 01:24 PM
I'm guessing the heatshrink you have isn't included? Is it from HobbyCity?

Get to soldering already! :D

07.30.2009, 01:46 PM
The heat shrink didn't come from HC, I always get it from that little electronics supply store near my home. I will get a company name and SKU number and try to find other distributors. Maybe HC has shrink similar to this. I am also thinking about something to keep the two battery wires separate. I gotta go to work, tomorrow is the big preparation for next week since we're off to an Hawaiian cruise. Be back on the 10th of August and will probably get to work on these.

Aloha! :yipi:

07.30.2009, 01:57 PM

How dare you go to Hawaii without giving us a hour written review! :rofl:

Have fun man over there in Hawaii.... I heard the weinerdog advertising car is banned from there :rofl::rofl:

Pretty funny, let us know about those 5.5mm bullets, I could use some!

And no worries about the heat shrink, I've got some, was just a bit interested since you said that had a rubbery grip, but, I could just double shrink mine, and then put electrical tape, which mine is a bit grippy.... :neutral:

07.30.2009, 03:56 PM
Canadian Tire has heat shrink with adhesive in it, but I don't know if the wall is as thick as whay Mistercrash described.

When it comes to making any solder connection, the proper method is to ensure a reliable physical connection, then solder the connection to seal it against corrosion, etc. Solder is VERY soft.. it used to be 63% lead and 37% tin - both soft metals.

rawfuls - one of the reasons the heatshrink he is using works so well is because of the adhesive - it is likely sticking to the metal suface. Regular heat shrink will likely slip if indeed these suckers hold as toghtly as they can.

With respect to the connectors that are heating up - that's a HUGE sign of a poor connection.. I am working on a spreadsheet right now that will convert between Watts and temperature.. Anyways, if they are hot, it's bad...

07.30.2009, 05:24 PM
So should we hotglue the heatshrink to the connection? Isn't hotglue a very bad conductor, if it even is 1% of a conductor?

07.30.2009, 08:33 PM
Good quality hot glue would work great. Give the connectors a light scuff with 320 grit before you assemble, just so the glue has something to stick to. Make sure the connectors are free of grease and dirt.. Maybe a wipe with alcohol or similar residue free product.

I stress our a lot about high-current electrical connections... ;-)

07.30.2009, 09:27 PM
Figured so.......

But, HotGlue would end up being too hot for the heatshrink, wouldn't it?

07.31.2009, 12:45 AM
So here's one way of making some sort of connector for the battery with the two poles separated. A piece of a larger heat shrink with glue inside that I pinched in the middle before I heated it with the heat gun. Once it cooled down, the middle is glued together and keeps the two sides separated. To answer how well this heat shrink with glue in it sticks to stuff, well it sticks really well. It is very hard to take off and you actually have to rip it off bit by bit by completely destroying it.

http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w202/mistercrash1964/ERevo/Lipos/th_polymax_5_5_connectors3.jpg (http://s177.photobucket.com/albums/w202/mistercrash1964/ERevo/Lipos/?action=view&current=polymax_5_5_connectors3.jpg)

07.31.2009, 01:04 AM
I've always thought about that as well, but making it male then female next to each other would be better wouldn't it?

07.31.2009, 06:08 AM
I wouldn't worry about the hot glue damaging the heat shrink, it can take some serious heat... Provided it's of reasonable quality.

The idea of the battery connector having both female sockets is to help reduce the chance of the terminals ever shorting out. I would do it the same way.. But, your logic about using the pins in alternating gender does ensure you would never connect them

07.31.2009, 11:54 AM
And have a nice flaming ball in your hand, that's always neat..

07.31.2009, 03:47 PM
Yeah.. given the current capabilities of most Lipo's... that would be neat to see!

Did I mention I have 'issues' as well as obsessions?

07.31.2009, 05:30 PM
So, the bottom line for me is... I need some connectors. I had CC 6.5 Bullets that were fine. But I need to choose a "standard" for myself, and go with it. Since my last MMM caught fire, they are sending me a new one, which should arrive any day now. I need to make up some new leads, etc... and need to decide on a connector. Deans will work I gather. I'm running 6s, so it's high current. I also gather that Traxxas High Current connectors will work too, which I like. Castle bullets are fine, as well as the EC3, or is it EC5? I saw at aMainHobbies, that ProTek makes Traxxas and Deans knock off's, but can they handle that kind of current? I run only Lipo and Brushless. I just can't decide! And I don't want to spend hours hotgluing, etc making up good connectors.

On my ERBE, the male and female are reversed, so there is never a question of hooking them up wrong. But occasionally after big jump, the wire will yank itself from the other, coming unhooked. So... what to do? I need to decide FAST.


07.31.2009, 06:38 PM
I wish you had a couple months to wait so I could do an actual connector comparison.. I have a good feeling about the big bullets that mistercrash chose. O think my second choice (purely based on surface area) would be the EC5 - which are basically the same ( I think?).

Things to consider when choosing any electrical connector... Contact surface area, connection pressure and safety (reverse polarity protection).

07.31.2009, 08:05 PM
I'd go with PowerPoles, Linc loves em, Brian (Kulang) loves them, and me, I tried em out with a couple plastics themselves, without any wires connected, and I love them.

If you're worried about them coming apart, you can pick a couple powerpole retainers, which will keep them from parting.

PowerPoles 45A are possibly the ones you want, if you're worried about the amperage, Kulang uses em on his high amp stuff, as well as Linc, and they both say that they never get above ambient temp.

07.31.2009, 11:04 PM
I don't want to spend hours hotgluing, etc making up good connectors.

You don't spend hours if you have heat shrink that has the glue already inside it, when you shrink it, the glue melts.

08.01.2009, 07:50 PM
well after yesterday's race meet...
yeah well...
after that my mate raced that summit and looking at my shagged buggy...it really puts my revo suspension to shame, it was so bindy.
so i overhauled the entire rear end and put some softer springs on so it isnt so bouncy.
it has trx sway bars on the rear and i think they are the main cause of the binding. even though they make no contact with anything that they shouldent touch.
any tips of making my suspension silky smooth like a brand new revo? (apart from obvious methods like shock rebuilds and hinge pin polish)

08.04.2009, 09:48 AM
Shaun.. it may sound stupid, but I would simply dissect the suspension piece by piece and see where the hang-ups are.. Start with the shocks.. remove them and move them through their range of motion.. make sure they are smooth and linear. Then move to the rocker arms. remove the suspension push rod and move the rockers through their range of motion.. Aagin, feel for anything binding or hanging up and address. Next, move each wheel through it's range of motion.. You are now only really looking for a bent pin or something similar.. Again, address as required... Finally, turn the front steering knuckles, and check as well.

If it were mine, I'd strip it naked and clean the daylights out of everything.. never hurts as good maintenance...

If it's binding, then 'something' isn't working right.. could be almost anything...

There was an interesting story in one of the RC car mags this month.. it had to do with ensuring full range of steering and lack of binding through the entire range of motion of the suspension, not just ride height.. So turn everything your can at all the extreme's of suspension travel...

08.06.2009, 05:07 AM
no it's not stupid :wink:
but i did all that...it just dosent seem to be as smooth as a brand new one...
although it is a ton better now that ive done all of that...i put 80wt in the rear shocks and put in some softer springs (did have some pretty heavy ones in there, now have grey band)

also serviced the wheel BB's cause they were full of crap:lol:

08.11.2009, 05:23 PM
And finally, the rear body mount brace I made with a carbon fiber rod broke. I was jumping the triple in the back stretch and while the truck is just leaving the jump, I notice a marshall in the middle of the path of my ERBE so my reflex was to apply the brakes.... in mid air :mdr: I landed very badly with the back of the truck hitting the ground first. That is when I broke the brace.

http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w202/mistercrash1964/ERevo/Rear%20body%20mount%20brace/th_rear_body_mount_brace3.jpg (http://s177.photobucket.com/albums/w202/mistercrash1964/ERevo/Rear%20body%20mount%20brace/?action=view&current=rear_body_mount_brace3.jpg)

This goes to show that a brace is needed to keep the rear body mount from flexing too much when running a rear wing. Without the brace, it might have been the body mount or even the chassis breaking. I made a new one using a spare steel P2 pushrod.

So... do we know yet what LENGTH the rod needs to be in order to fit from the shock mount to the wing? I have a ton of these, and they are either too long or too short. A proper measurement would help, cuz I would like to get some to try!

However, if you do take a hard landing on the wing, doesn't that then just cause more stress and pressure on the shock mount, possibly causing it to rip itself from the chassis? Or bust a bulkhead?? I'd rather lose a wingmount then to destroy either of those!

08.11.2009, 05:33 PM
look at the revo design....you are not going to rip out the shock mount!!
even with that brace in place the weak link might still be the brace or the wing mount but i highly doubt it's gonna take out the shock mount.
he said it's a P2 rocker pushrod if that's any help.


08.11.2009, 11:59 PM
So... do we know yet what LENGTH the rod needs to be in order to fit from the shock mount to the wing? I have a ton of these, and they are either too long or too short. A proper measurement would help, cuz I would like to get some to try!

You sound mad for some reason. :oh: The LENGTH of the rod will change depending on how you fabricate the part that goes on top of the shock tower to secure the rod to. I didn't measure anything when I made this thing. I made the CF part that goes on the shock tower and used that same shock tower as a template to make the holes. Once it was installed, it was just a matter of filling the gap between that part I made and the body mount. I used an old style P2 pushrod that was all aluminum and put a few more threads at each end and cut the excess to make it fit.

However, if you do take a hard landing on the wing, doesn't that then just cause more stress and pressure on the shock mount, possibly causing it to rip itself from the chassis? Or bust a bulkhead?? I'd rather lose a wingmount then to destroy either of those!

The rod ads strength and rigidity to the body mount but the rod is still the weak point. Either the rod will bend (or crack in the case of the CF one) or the ball ends will be pulled out. I have seen aluminum chassis' that were bent upwards and those bulkheads ruined because the M4 screws were pulled out of them when the chassis bent. That rod is a mod that was brought to fix that problem, it has proven to work very well ever since rear wings were introduced to the Revo.

08.12.2009, 03:38 AM
I have seen aluminum chassis' that were bent upwards and those bulkheads ruined because the M4 screws were pulled out of them when the chassis bent.
:lol: been there done that, did your threaded insert mod and i'll never go back:yipi:
one of the best mods for revo ever those threaded inserts!!

08.12.2009, 11:06 AM
I sounded mad? :surprised: Sorry about that! I wasn't mad at all. Just goes to show how sometimes text can be totally misinterpreted! I'm never "mad" really!

No, I had remembered once when removing my shocks from my ERBE, that one of the long screws that screw down thru the top of the mount, never seemed to "bite" and come to a noticable stop. I had forgotten that I simply changed to a longer screw! So, when I posted that, I had forgotten that I did that, wondered if the pivot of a rear end lid slap might pull the mount from the chassis, but yer right, that's not going to happen.

Good call on the pivot ball popping out or the shaft snapping.

My frustration in finding the right length shaft was true though. I could have swore that i had some P2 Pushrods, but these aren't I guess. I thought I had them with me today, but they must be at home or else I'd look to see what mm is printed on them. That's why I was asking for the length, so I didn't have to go to Traxxas to look up what length the P2 rods are. But I will do that, so no need to worry about it.


08.12.2009, 09:26 PM
I dabbled in bracing and haven't broken a rear upper assembly since, but did learn how to drive more gooder, and this is what I was doin':


I did have quite a few crashes with this setup, and the worst thing that happend was it popped out of the hole I drilled in the vent, and have had to drill another hole and lost a few screws, but better than replacing the whole mount!!! I used the stock push rods...

.......I love your build threads mistercrash....my revo wouldn't be what it is without your insight!

08.12.2009, 09:58 PM
Here is another brace idea I ran across. I may try this way on mine. This with the combination of the single brace on the front side I believe would be indestructible. Maybe even a little overkill. lol

08.13.2009, 06:03 AM

Not entirely sure how or where it fits though, but it looks nice :neutral:

08.13.2009, 12:56 PM
It looks really nice but like you said, where does it go? It looks really super duper uber heavy duty.

Remember what I did to my Racers Edge servo horn in post #20 (http://www.rc-monster.com/forum/showpost.php?p=287382&postcount=20), well my ACE 1015 servo couldn't take it for very long. The Racers Edge horn is 3/4'' long and the mod I did made it 1'' long. The extra throw was nice and made the steering very fast as the servo didn't have to move as much to lock the wheels left to right but the extra leverage this long horn put on the gears was too much for my ACE. The same thing happened on my nitro Revo that had the same set up. So after replacing the gears in both servos, I went back to the stock length of 3/4'' that the Racers Edge horns had originally and this should fix the problem. The steering is a little slower but fast enough to satisfy me. More high end servos may have stronger gears that can withstand the extra leverage that a 1'' horn puts on the gears so I think it is still a good mod but you gotta have the servo to go with it.

08.13.2009, 01:19 PM
My frustration in finding the right length shaft


08.13.2009, 01:24 PM


You would do that! :lol:

08.18.2009, 12:25 PM
I received the rest of my 5.5 bullets today. I should find the courage to start soldering very soon. :mdr: I put an OFNA rear wing on the ERBE because the Traxxas wing on my nitro Revo was broken so I needed another wing. The LHS had both the OFNA and TRAXXAS wings in stock so I went with the OFNA one because it just seems stronger. I put it on the ERBE and put the ERBE's TRAXXAS wing on the nitro Revo. I had a puffed Zippy in my battery box, it just puffed sitting there with the other lipos. I don't know what happened to it but both cells were badly puffed. So I unsoldered the connectors which I will keep and put the cells in the middle of the driveway and punctured both of them very hard with the tip of a long crowbar :lol:
There was some fizz with tiny sparks in the hole and a little smoke for 1 minute or two, then came the big puff of smoke, and I mean a lot of smoke and a lot of fizzing for about 20 seconds. But no flames at all. Then down to a little smoke and soft fizzing for 5 minutes and then nothing. I let it sit there for another hour to cool down and tossed the cells in the trash once I inspected the cells to make sure that they were all consumed. I should've made a vid. It was a cool experiment.

08.18.2009, 04:05 PM
Yep... Lipo pops always make for good video.. shoulda hollered!

08.19.2009, 05:10 AM
i cant make lipo's go bang!!! :neutral:
lets see....never had a genuine failure yet, both failures caused my ME and the rest were on purpose.
the maxamps cell i tryed to blow up...well....
dead short.....nothing
gave a single cell 12V and pumped it with 100 amps from a car batt...nothing
nailed it...nothing
hosed it..nothing
douced in some nitro and set it on fire....nothing!!!!:neutral:

the ones that did fail were caused by gravel rash under heavy load, that one caught fire so i ripped off the top cell (while on fire) and tossed it away, saved the pack and now it's a 4s.

the other one was left plugged into the MMM so when the MMM died it took out the lipo too....no fire luckily cause it was in my car:gasp:

08.19.2009, 10:10 AM
Shaun.. You can't force current from a car battery.. It's a constant voltage source..

If you want to 'help' a LiPo pop, find a bug battery charger and set a 10A charge rate and hook that up to the battery... that should be more entertaining.. My guess, without trying, is that it should see 20+ volts...

You could also plug it into the wall...

08.19.2009, 11:11 AM
Shaun.. You can't force current from a car battery.. It's a constant voltage source..

I disagree. It's a power supply, but still a CV source:
That is the only Lipo fire I have ever had :party:

08.19.2009, 12:15 PM
Shaun, maybe there is some confusion.. Did you connect the LiPo to a battery, battery charger or power supply?

Batteries are constant voltage - ie: they attempt to maintain a specific voltage independant of load.

Power supplies are constant voltage. I have a 300A 13.5V power supply on my test bench (amongst others) and it attempts to supply a constant voltage independant of load.

Battery chargers vary. The smarter RC chargers work on both Constant current and constant voltage. When you connect a battery, you set a charge current - 1, 2, 5 Amps or whatever. The charger attempts to maintain this current flow to put energy back into the battery as quickly as possible. Good quality chargers use Constant Voltage circuitry to monitor no-battery conditions... Without a battery connected, the device would attempt to produce infinite current as it attempted to push electronics into the air - overly dramatic explanantion... There is some addition adjustment of current at the end of the charge from an intelligent charger.

If you look at the display on the voltmeter attached to that battery, you can see that the voltage was changing as the internal resistance of the pack varied. Odds are, if you were monitoring current - it would have, assuming it was connected to a battery charger and not a power supply, stayed relatively constant.

08.19.2009, 05:37 PM
i wasnt meaning to go into the math, just off the top of my head i figured a lipo is nearly a dead short...and an electrical setup will draw unlimited amps if avaliable....but for how long!?

(eg, 300 sized brushed motor that has locked up....it's gonna draw as many watts of power it can to try and get going again, hence producing unlimited HP....but for less than a nanosecond!!)

the batt prolly only gave it about 20 odd amps but a lipo is gonna seem like somewhat of a dead short.

and no, a power supply wont work either because it draws way too many amps for a 10A supply to keep up (did that with another lipo).

and the rest of the big epic post you made needs to be put somewhere safe because it is great info...(even know i know most of it) and can be used against the noob forces around the world:yipi:

lipo fires are old now....all my dead lipo's go in the wood heater now:lol:

08.20.2009, 08:56 AM
Noob forces.. I like that! I gotta keep it!

Not sure it was epic.. that would have required research.. ;-)

But, back to topic.. Mistercrash.. We've hijacked your thread.. and now we turn it back over to you! what's next? When you racing next?

08.20.2009, 10:19 AM
This is the schedule of the hardcore RC race track for the rest of the summer.

Sunday August 23rd - Open Practice - I will try to be there
Sunday August 30th - Club Series Points Race #6 Finale - I have to be there as I missed point series race #5 and fell to second place
Sunday September 6th - Buggy Endurance Challenge - I don't have a buggy so I'll stay home
Sunday September 13th - Open Practice - I would like to be there and have some fun
Sunday September 20th -Open Practice - I will try to be there and run 6S and try to make the biggest jumps possible and break parts
Sunday September 27th -Open Practice - I will be there if it's not too cold, Traxxas plastic don't like the cold
Sunday October 4th - Truggy Endurance Challenge - I don't have a Truggy so I'll rake leaves
Sunday October 11th – TBA - I might be too busy getting the winter clothes out of the closet
Sunday October 18th - TBA - I might be too busy prepping the snow blower for winter, maybe I will think about converting it to brushless power
Sunday October 25th -TBA - I might be too busy prepping the house for Halloween

08.26.2009, 01:33 PM
Update on my ERBE.

The ERBE is holding up very well to bashing and racing, I managed to break a rear suspension arm landing a really big jump and that is about the only thing I have broken recently. I noticed that my Summit shafts were getting quite a bit of slop due to wear. I have been using my ERBE every day since I made all these modifications so I guess this was to be expected. I had a full set of spare Summit shafts so I installed new ones all around, changed a few ball ends on the turnbuckles and pushrods as a precaution and will put new ball ends on the shocks and the ERBE should be ready for the final race of the season this Sunday. My aluminum slipper did so well at protecting my drive train that when the new Summit shafts I just installed wear out, I will put back the stock shafts and see how well they hold up. I am pretty sure that they will do fine with the help of that slipper but we'll see. I haven't done any changes to my connectors yet but I'm thinking about it :mdr:
Maybe I will find some time to do it before Sunday.
I haven't done any checking of the 8th scale diffs but they are so smooth that I don't see the need to take them out to check them. I have ordered some Losi heavy duty diff cups (http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_info.php/products_id/22791/n/Team-Losi-Heavy-Duty-Differential-Case) to install when the snow comes and I disassemble the whole truck for an overhaul.
I am also working on a new 8th scale center diff made with a Losi XXL diff and a different Traxxas gear with a different and easier way to secure the gear to the diff cap.

08.27.2009, 10:10 AM
Changing the ball ends on my shocks this morning, I noticed that three of the four Jato shock boots I was using had little tears in them, so I put on three new ones. The Jato shock boots did a really good job at keeping my shock shafts clean but they did start tearing a bit early. I still am going to use Jato shock boots but they do need to be checked and replaced regularly. Just thought I'd let you know. If anyone has experience with other kinds of shock boots, please feel free to share your suggestions.

08.27.2009, 01:48 PM
Yup, same here. I've replaced all mine three times in the 8-9 months. I think the boot gets pinched between the spring coils at full compression ? I'm trying the Bad Horsie Spring covers this time.

Is there a company that makes the shim to go under the shock tower to get a little distance between the shock caps and chassis ? I seen your CF shim but I'd rather just buy something than make something that delicate.

08.27.2009, 10:59 PM
I don't believe anyone makes a shim to go under the shock tower, you have to make something yourself.

08.28.2009, 10:50 AM
I have started work on a new 8th scale center diff. I have been thinking of ways to simplify the whole process of making one of these CDs and if this thing works and holds up to my abuse, it should be pretty neat. I am waiting on a Losi LST XXL diff to come in. I chose this diff because it has these metal inserts for the spider gear pins inside. It's a very tough diff. Also I like the dimensions of the diff cup, it's a little narrower than the Thunder Tiger or Hyper 7 one so I can use the Traxxas output gear to it's full thickness. I will be using a different kind of Traxxas gear, two aluminum posts with M3 threads in them. I will use a diff and not a center diff, I have made an 8th scale CD using a Losi diff and found out that the ring gear of a diff can be modified just like the spur gear of an 8th scale CD can. Only two holes will have to be drilled through the hardened steel ring gear and they won't need to be threaded, but they will need to be countersunk. And there will be a carbon fiber part on this CD, how cool is that!