View Full Version : Does this look right? RX8 system

05.23.2009, 09:22 PM
OK, I got my setup and soldered it all up. before I make this happen. I have to make sure this is wired right. I am putting (2) SMC 5000 Lipo's on each side. So I made this harness for the batteries to run into the RX8 and I want to be absolutly positive before I go firing it up.

05.23.2009, 09:35 PM
Do you have a voltmeter? If so unplug the adapter from the esc and plug the lipos into it. Check the voltage at the female plug on the adapter and make sure you get 14.8v or so, and make sure the polarity is correct as well. Visually it looks correct, as long as the deans are correctly installed on the lipos, and you have the pos and neg wire hooked up correctly on the esc.

05.23.2009, 09:42 PM
Im good on the batteries. I ran them when i had the Novak system in this. But the tekin system doesnt give you the double battery capability. The connector for the batteries is what i have always been told is how to run the batteries off of one ESC. So I want to be sure it looks wired up right. I would hate to have to send it back to tekin because I did something wrong.

05.23.2009, 09:50 PM
That looks good to me..I just wired my Tekin RX8 set up tonight

05.23.2009, 11:39 PM
The series adapter looks right.
If you are only going to use it with two packs in series then you could get rid on the middle deans plug and a few inches of wire if you wanted. Just have the - esc wire going straight to the same spot on the left hand side plug, and the + esc wire going straight to the same spot on the right hand side plug. Probably move the adapter back to the next hole in the chassis since you'll have less wire.
You don't have to do that, it will work how it is, but it looks like your going for a neat layout so getting rid of a plug and some wire might make it neater (plus less overall resistance helps a bit). If your going to use single packs, or parallel packs as well then it's not worth doing.

05.24.2009, 12:02 AM
They are these packs.
http://cgi.ebay.com/SMC-5000LD-7-4V-22C-5000-mah-LiPo-BATTERY-DEANS-PLUG_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQ_trkparmsZ72Q3a1205Q7c66Q3a 2Q7c65Q3a12Q7c39Q3a1Q7c240Q3a1318Q7c301Q3a1Q7c293Q 3a1Q7c294Q3a50QQ_trksidZp3286Q2ec0Q2em14QQhashZite m3ef1de7847QQitemZ270345861191QQptZRadioQ5fControl Q5fPartsQ5fAccessoriesQQsalenotsupported

05.24.2009, 12:18 AM
Yeah, if I were you, and I was only going to run packs in series, I'd eliminate that center deans, and just extend the deans (from the series connector) onto the ESC.

This is completely your choice though..

05.24.2009, 12:33 AM
yeah, I think Ill do that to have a lower resistance. I just did that incse I decided to run a single pack at one point, but its not like I couldnt just rewire anyways. thanks

05.24.2009, 02:00 AM
That's what I would do as well.
I wouldn't think that I would use one pack, as it would unbalance some..... stuff

05.24.2009, 08:42 AM
Go with 12-10GA wire on the battery side.

05.24.2009, 08:44 AM
Go with 12-10GA wire on the battery side.

Yeah, the wire does look a bit skinny now that you mention it...

05.24.2009, 08:48 AM
^^^ Ditto.

Wiring scheme looks right, but that guage looks pretty small. I also would opt to make the series connection on the esc wires as well. No need for extra connectors.

05.24.2009, 01:26 PM
ok, well the wire to the motors are 14 awg and the battery wires are 12 aug. This is the re wire. I guess ill have to get the 16 aug for the batteries as well if you believe it will make a differance. is this what you want it to look like only with larger wires.

05.24.2009, 01:45 PM
Gauge works by the smaller the number the thicker the wires is. 12-10 gauge is best for what you are doing, motor and battery wires should be that big.

05.24.2009, 01:47 PM
If you use the 12 gauge wire that came with the RX8 you should be fine.

Just so you know, the higher the number in the wire gauge the skinnier it is. You want to use 12 gauge wire or if you are looking for some over kill 10 gauge wire is even better.

Looks to me like you have the 12 ga wire on the motor and 16 gauge on the battery wires in that picture. Hard to read the wire lable, but thats what it looks like.

EDIT:Linc beat me to it.

05.24.2009, 02:01 PM
Ohh, I understand the wire dimentions. it was just a mis print on my behalf.
OK the wires on the motor which came with the system is 12AUG, the wires to the battery are 16AUG . I know Guage. So what you guys are telling me is I should switch out the battery wires to 12 guage? even though that is what was in the box for the battery.

05.24.2009, 02:03 PM
Ohh, I understand the wire dimentions. it was just a mis print on my behalf.
OK the wires on the motor which came with the system is 12AUG, the wires to the battery are 16AUG . I know Guage. So what you guys are telling me is I should switch out the battery wires to 12 guage? even though that is what was in the box for the battery.

At least 12GA specially on the battery side and the bridge for your series connection.

05.24.2009, 02:07 PM
Okie dokie, well when the hobby shop opens Monday i'll get that 12 guage for the battery stuff.

05.24.2009, 07:24 PM
Make sure they're open first! It is Memorial Day after all.

05.26.2009, 01:48 PM
OK, now with the bigger wires.

05.26.2009, 05:07 PM
You resoldered larger wires? That looks pretty beefy, what is it, 10AWG? Maybe 11AWG?

05.26.2009, 05:12 PM
Read the thread rawfuls...

everything is spelled out.

05.26.2009, 05:14 PM
Good point.
I haven't read the thread in awhile, saw a new post, and just posted.

05.26.2009, 06:29 PM
yeah I went 12aug like the motor wires like everyone suggested and then I called Ty at Tekin to take a look at it make sure it was good. Everything is thumbs up and I took it for a test drive. POWER! its 14 lbs, but much better than that Novak 6.5 I had in it. I might go with a larger pinion as I have a 14t in there now and this is the 2250 system. Its got a 69t spur gear so what do you think? here are the internal gears.

05.26.2009, 07:38 PM
Now THAT is what a transmission should look like, Looks to me like it should handle anything you can throw at it. If your temps are within reason- you can gear up

05.26.2009, 07:52 PM
But no oil/grease?
Or is grease/oil not needed with metal/metal/metal trannys?

05.27.2009, 01:18 PM
Well orginally those gears were mostly plastic. I asked RC4WD to make them into steel gears for me which they now sell on thier website. The pics are what they looked like when I got them back. I use AE stealth grease on all the gears so no worries of hot steel gears, binding, anything like that and the cover keeps all the bad stuff out. You barely hear them with all the grease in them. but everything is solid and powerful and cool.

Believe me I built this truck 10 times better than its original design. With the Novak 6.5 I was taking nitro's at the track. i inteded on the RX8 To take up the slack. i just ordered an RRP.8 mod 16t and 18t which should do nicely. Which of couse I'll check the temps and gears while testing it till I get what is acceptable and not harmfull to the truck as a whole.

05.27.2009, 01:28 PM
I didn't see it posted anywheres, but what vehicle is that and weighs 14lb and only 2wd??

05.27.2009, 01:54 PM
MRC thunderking. I call it the Evolution because its an Evolution in a build. I might be worng. It was 14lbs with the Novak system and batteries in it. Maybe more like 11lbs. still pretty heavy but hey its got alot of metal on it.

05.27.2009, 11:00 PM
Well, I am starting a thread for this. MRC Thunder king Evolution II