RC-Monster Forums

RC-Monster Forums (https://www.rc-monster.com/forum/index.php)
-   Brushless (https://www.rc-monster.com/forum/forumdisplay.php?f=12)
-   -   5th scale on road car based on 1/8 buggy parts (https://www.rc-monster.com/forum/showthread.php?t=29083)

lincpimp 01.18.2011 04:45 PM

5th scale on road car based on 1/8 buggy parts
 
I have seen stuff like this done, but would like to condese the info into one thread.

Making an on road chassis is pretty easy. Flat al sheet with some braces or a backbone, etc.

Using buggy length arms, especially some of the older short arms setups would be nice. Same with diffs, and even the center drive/diff. Longer center driveshafts would be required. Steering would be easy too.

Now, I am not sure on dimensions. Width, length and wheelbase would be nice for some bodies that some of you may have.

Now I would really like to know how the 1/5 scale wheels mount. I have heard they have 18mm square drives instead of a hex shaped drive. Any adapters or ideas on how to get 5th scale wheels on a buggy style, 8mm, axle?

Anything else would be helpful too.

simplechamp 01.18.2011 07:06 PM

Buggy based on-road 1/8 have a ~325mm wheelbase and the buggy based with truggy chassis (IGT2) have ~360mm wheelbase. I would think trying to make a longer 1/5 from buggy arms might be too narrow, maybe 1/8 truggy arms would be better if you wanted to start stretching the chassis even further?

lincpimp 01.18.2011 08:30 PM

I was actually thinking I could widen the arm pivot points, so they sit farther away from the bulks. That way the arms are not crazy long.

I would have to find a suitable dogbone, but a truggy bone with buggy arms and wider pivot plates (not sure what to call them but they are the al plates that attach to the bulks that the hinge pins go thru) may work.

400mm, 15.75 inch appears to be a std width for 5th scale on road cars, and I have found 535mm wb bodies. So around 21" wb.

Seems like an easy project, pick up some sort of cheap buggy, like a hyper 7, widen it out to fit the body, make a chassis and some braces or a backbone, and lock the center diff. Run something like a 1520 motor on 6s with a MMM.

Wheels are the main issues I see. I could always make a hub adapter to accept the square drive. Any ideas where to find a variety of 1/5 tires?

simplechamp 01.18.2011 08:52 PM

I see, I think you are referring to the hingepin holders? That's what I call them at least. Sounds like a decent idea.

Depending on the vehicle used you could make some wider ones pretty easily, if they are flat pieces stamped or cut out of alum. It's the ones that are more 3-dimensional that could be a challenge (like the RR hingepin holder on my Jammin, has a tab extending forward under the bulkhead).

The only concern I would have is extending those out could really increase the leverage on them when you get in a crash, where they would be more inclined to buckle/fold at the bulkhead.

lincpimp 01.18.2011 09:58 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by simplechamp (Post 394479)
I see, I think you are referring to the hingepin holders? That's what I call them at least. Sounds like a decent idea.

Depending on the vehicle used you could make some wider ones pretty easily, if they are flat pieces stamped or cut out of alum. It's the ones that are more 3-dimensional that could be a challenge (like the RR hingepin holder on my Jammin, has a tab extending forward under the bulkhead).

The only concern I would have is extending those out could really increase the leverage on them when you get in a crash, where they would be more inclined to buckle/fold at the bulkhead.

True, I had planned making them out of al angle, and then bolting them to the chassis near the hinge pin, where the highest loads are. Pretty sure the old hyper 7 had pretty std looking hingepin holders. I will see if I can find some pics.

Overdriven 01.19.2011 09:45 PM

The other problem with extending the hingepin holders is the dogbone itself. Not the length of the dogbone, but the dogbone hitting the holder. In stock form, the hingepins are located very close (vertically) to the pivot point of the dogbone, where it doesn't move at all. But approximately 1.75" (approx amount per side you'd have to extend a buggy) from the diff cup, the dog bone is moving up and down a significant amount and must be taken into account to avoid interference with the new hingepin holders.

Truggy arms would be about the perfect size. A far as more info on the wheels, FG and MCD (most common 1/5 onroad) use a square drive on their vehicles and I'm pretty sure its an 8mm axle shaft. If I'm wrong and its bigger, using a sleeve isn't that big of a deal. So getting the square drive on isn't a problem, and if your buggy/truggy axle is threaded in the center, a bolt with a washer will keep the wheel on there. Oh and FG square drives are alum, with 2 big set screws each, that are 90 degrees apart from each other.

lincpimp 01.19.2011 11:06 PM

Good info on the wheels, could you tell me the diameter with tires?

As for the dogbones hitting the hinge pins, that is an issue. I had planned to run the arms level at ride height, and allow for a very small amount of droop, not enough to cause interference with the hingepins. It is on road, so alot of travel is not needed.

Overdriven 01.20.2011 08:27 AM

I'm dont remember the diameter with tires, I'm pretty sure they're just under 6" overall though. MCD's website lists alot of dimensions on their website including tire sizes, FG doesn't.

As far as the dogbones hitting, it can be worked around of course. Just something I noticed to take into account during the design phase for less surprises later.

mac3194 01.20.2011 01:18 PM

i would do something similar to mine with the 5b drive shaft and a center diff i think the buggy arms are a perfect length actually and buggy tires r big enough IMO. mine was about 21-22 inchs long

mac3194 01.20.2011 01:21 PM

^when u make the chassis i would extend the part on chassis that limits the travel of the arms so u can get a leveled ride height

lincpimp 01.20.2011 02:21 PM

Yes, I had planned to make the chassis with the droop screw pad, just like a buggy chassis. I would likely use a shorter travel shock, like the al bodied revo shocks, as they are sturdy, and have stiff springs. I dobut this would weight all that much, not more than 10-12lbs.

Any pics of what you did?

mac3194 01.20.2011 08:39 PM

Its in the project x thread remember?? i cant take better pics because its currently disassembled..


All times are GMT -4. The time now is 06:03 AM.

Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.1
Copyright ©2000 - 2021, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.