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  (#31)
ruudxd
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09.19.2015, 04:18 PM

Oh, yes sorry, I am used to "normal" steel pinions :)
Maybe CA glue will help a little?
Why spend money when you have something laying around that works as well :)
   
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Dr_T
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09.21.2015, 11:47 AM

Time for a déjà vu... upon inspection, I noticed the shaft of my TP5660 is loose too... :(.

It's not as bad as with Lizard's TP4070, there's still no "rotational play", but the shaft moves forwards and backwards a couple of millimeters under pressure, while the rotor does not move. I can see the rotor is fixed to the shaft with two grub-screws. APS, the shop I got it from, tells me I can fix it myself with some epoxy and just tightening the grub-screws. Have to look at that in the weekend, but, because the motor does not have a removable front end-bell, my main concern is I'll be damaging or knocking out the front bearing with the motor shaft, when the rotor is sucked in while putting it back... Alternative would be shipping it back to UK and have APS do it.

Seems evidence undermining my love for TP is piling up lately.

Did you get your TP4070 apart already Lizard?
   
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ruudxd
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09.21.2015, 11:58 AM

What I do, is put the front end bell flat on your working space, and then grab the rotor with a good pare of pliers of vice grips and some rubber or foam to protect the shaft, en sink it in slowely.
Now that I read that again, no pun intended :)

But wouldnt epoxy unbalance the rotor?
   
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  (#34)
Dr_T
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09.21.2015, 12:09 PM

Ok, thanks, I'll try; I just know that with the couple of motors I took apart and put together again in the past, I did not really manage to control the rotor once it sucked itself in, and this would be the biggest rotor I have worked on. Magnet drag is actually less than with the Turnigy 5682 though, so maybe there's less iron in the stator to make my job difficult.

I think he only meant a little layer of epoxy between shaft and rotor, like some do with locktite on shaft/pinion too, shouldn't upset the balance too much I think.
   
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ruudxd
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09.21.2015, 12:13 PM

Yes, I had that to with my NEU's en Plettenberg, but if you have some vice grips, that clamp good on the shaft, you have a lot of control.
   
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ruudxd
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09.29.2015, 03:08 PM

I was just thinking, what if you use button head screws or countersunk screws on the motor gear, with the head towards the motor.
And then get a locknut on the aluminium plate?

But you probably already thought about that?
   
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Dr_T
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10.27.2015, 11:40 AM

Thanks Ruud! I'll try and fiddle around with it a bit to see what can be done. I did get one of these already: http://www.ebay.de/itm/151846972547?...%3AMEBIDX%3AIT, in order to run the Traxxas Revo gears as pinion on 8 mm shaft as an alternative. It's a nicely made adapter, design and finish looks more professional than the single-speed Traxxas gear adapter I got for my center-spool in the past.

It's been a while, but I finally had some time to disassemble the motor. What I found was rather disappointing though. The shaft was very poorly secured to the rotor (no proper retaining compound: used 'glue' was soft/sticky and not hardened) and the shaft seems to have been modified or used/intended previously for a different rotor/motor (shaft seems to be shorted too, in what appears to be a DIY-manner).

In the pics below, you can see additional flat-spots have been made on the shaft to attach it to the rotor in this specific way, as if the shaft/rotor combo was originally intended for a longer motor can. These flat spots are poorly done and are very uneven (you can compare them to the factory-made flat spots in the pics), making them unsuitable for proper attachment of the rotor and, in addition, disturbing the balance of the shaft. During bench-testing I already noticed the motor vibrated more than what I'm used to with other motors; I didn't pay much attention to that at that point, but seeing the shaft now, it I think the additional flat spots have ruined the rotor balance. You can see ring-shaped wear marks on the shaft caused by fretting on the edges of the rotor, induced by movement of the loose shaft under vibrations (remember, I only ran the motor once).

I'm still talking to the seller about how to deal with this; I cannot imagine the motor left the factory this way, that would be very poor quality work in my opinion, so it seems some sort of customization has been done, although not executed very professionally.

Anyway, what do you guys make of this?








Last edited by Dr_T; 10.27.2015 at 11:50 AM.
   
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Lizard
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10.27.2015, 01:14 PM

Wow, that was really Modellbaupirat's work? I'm stunned. That guy has a good reputation in german boating forums, wonder where that reputation comes from after seeing this.
   
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Dr_T
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10.27.2015, 01:17 PM

No, my TP4070 was from MBP, this one was from same place you got your 5670 from...
   
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Mr E-Maxx
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10.27.2015, 03:20 PM

No Question! Send it back. This Motor will not last long.
   
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Lizard
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10.28.2015, 07:30 AM

Quote:
Originally Posted by Dr_T View Post
No, my TP4070 was from MBP, this one was from same place you got your 5670 from...
Ahh, thought you bought it from MBP-RC. Well, that explains it then :)
   
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  (#42)
ruudxd
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10.28.2015, 09:29 AM

That doens't look like it is done like that from the factory indeed.
I would return it and get a refund, or send it back to the factory.

Strange thing is, I read a lot of positive things about TP motors used in boats, but you guys don't seem to have a lot of luck with them?
But then again, the guy I know who loves the TP motors buys them direct of TP's website.
   
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  (#43)
Dr_T
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10.30.2015, 03:45 PM

Quote:
Originally Posted by Lizard View Post
Ahh, thought you bought it from MBP-RC. Well, that explains it then :)
Yeah, what can I say... I'm a stubborn donkey :).

Quote:
Originally Posted by ruudxd View Post
Strange thing is, I read a lot of positive things about TP motors used in boats, but you guys don't seem to have a lot of luck with them?
But then again, the guy I know who loves the TP motors buys them direct of TP's website.
Yeah, maybe they've been messing around with their design too much recently. I think Lizard got his sparking 58xx and loose shaft 4070 directly from TP too, no? Any news on those Lizard?

Anyway, still talking to APS and TP, no news yet, will keep you guys posted.
   
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ruudxd
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10.30.2015, 07:59 PM

Strange..
Maybe they have become to popular and they can't keep up with the demand anymore?
   
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  (#45)
Dr_T
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11.20.2015, 10:41 AM

Alright, replacement rotor came in!

After talking to APS (where I bought the motor) and the TP factory, the TP factory took full responsibility for my loose rotor and provided me with a replacement rotor free of charge. They sent it with DHL express, and it was delivered from the factory in China directly to my door in Germany within a week, also free of charge and, in addition, a bunch of shims and spacers were included for fitting the rotor. Haven't installed and tested the rotor yet, but I am very pleased with how APS and TP (factory) handled this. Only thing how this could have been handled better, is if the complete motor was replaced, as I now need to fiddle and rebuild the motor myself, which for me is ok though.

Pics of the rotors below. Bottom one is the one from the Turnigy 5682. Diameter looks different because of pic angles, all are 28 mm dia. I was able to put the rotors so close together because they are on a metal plate, and were stuck to that enough not to get pulled together. You can see the 5682 has ~40 mm length magnets, whereas the TP5660 has ~50 mm length magnets (magnets on the TP cover whole rotor length), while being in a smaller (minus 2 mm) can (56x80 mm). Wrapping of the TP rotors looks better than that of the Turnigy, which has even has the magnets exposed at some areas - which explains the difference in max RPM I guess.

The new rotor still looks a bit "do-it-yourselfie", but time will tell how this one holds up. Instead of a single M3 grub screw on each side that hold the rotor to the shaft, they now tapped 2x opposite M4 holes on each side, for a total of 4x M4 grub screws; there's 2x M3 holes unused now, so seems like a custom job though, specifically to address my warranty claim?

Anyway, here's some pics, more when I get everything installed again.












Last edited by Dr_T; 11.20.2015 at 10:45 AM.
   
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