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Arct1k
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01.11.2015, 09:26 PM

So the exhaust looks ugly, was designed for a V8 and is way too loud... Looking at a couple of different options. Space is very limited so really need something with a 3" inlet and less that 2" long "including" the turndown.

I have 2 options in mind:

- K-Tuned Turndown Muffler - 3" - Looks great, design for 4CYL cars and is T304 however I'm worried how long the flange is and if it will be ok hanging out there with just a band clamp...



- Flowmaster® Part #: 13016101 - Looks OK, designed for everything apparently (applications ranging from street trucks, diesel pullers and RV pushers to every class of racing on dirt or asphalt!) and 409 stainless


Leaning to option 1 - Thoughts?
   
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RC-Monster Mike
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01.12.2015, 11:33 AM

I kind of like the 2nd one myself. Holding either one in place may be tricky - not much to grab and not much space - I thought it must be crazy loud, as there isn't any muffler visible.
I have a one seat buggy that is similar in general concept to this car(much more suspension travel of course) and uses an old KZ1300 street bike motor - it has dual SuperTrapp mufflers on it(sounds bitchin') - maybe something similar is an option?
   
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Arct1k
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01.18.2015, 06:56 PM

So NJ Law requires that all cars have a mechanical parking brake. The solution is a pair of Wilwood 1.62" Piston/.810" Mechanical Spot Brake Calipers mounted to the rear hubs.

RCR ship for some reason with two left calipers which makes the setup / installation asymmetrical. Rather than deal with that I was able to swap one left for the correct part a right!

First step is to drill and mount the calipers which involved drilling and tapping the rear hubs.





Next up was the cables - The supplied cables were for the RCR GT40 which weren't long enough for the RCR. A bit of research turned up Lokar EC-80FU Universal Emergency Brake Cables and clevis joints. I needed to make mounting tabs on the hubs for the cables - I made a couple of brackets out aluminum angle and drilled and tapped the hubs again to mount them.





At the other end the parking brake fits tight in behind the shifter box - I added an extension arm to support the cable bracket . I need to add a bit more support to the cable arm as its flexing under load.


Last edited by Arct1k; 01.18.2015 at 07:14 PM.
   
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Arct1k
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01.18.2015, 07:28 PM

When the car arrived the shifter pattern was completely reversed due to the engine being moved to the rear and using the stock cable mounts.

A few emails to Jim @ cableshift.com solved the issue - Jim was able to recondition / switch out a few bits and for a fraction of the cost of a whole new setup got me back on track.

Sadly the new control box is a slightly different shape so the existing mounts didn't work. A bit more aluminum and I made some plates to attach to existing tabs.





Whilst I was at it I upgraded the cable mount to an upgraded one which doesn't have rubber inserts which tightens up the linkage.




And finally the drivers view :)

   
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nastety92
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01.19.2015, 01:57 PM

Looks like it's coming along nicely. Will you be taking this to auto cross events or other racing type events? It must weight very little. What type of power does it make at the wheels and what does it weight with driver?

Also, is this what you have here? http://superlitecars.com/index.php/c...28-carlisle_09

Nick


Tamiya TRF801Xt-e

Last edited by nastety92; 01.19.2015 at 03:23 PM.
   
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Arct1k
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01.22.2015, 06:45 PM

The plan is to be able to take it on both the street and the track.

They do auto cross at the Giants stadium monthly and there is a local auto club that organizes country drives.

It's a stock engine at the moment so probably only 215hp. When I get it fully completed and registered I will work on that.

I had bought bigger injectors and a smaller pully but they were lost. It's pretty easy to get them up to 260hp

Yes it's a SuperLite.
   
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Lizard
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01.23.2015, 12:05 PM

Man, that thing is the shit.

What does it weigh? 500Kg? That's gonna be fun, even with "only" around 200HP.
   
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Arct1k
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01.25.2015, 04:01 PM

Iteration 3 of the exhaust...

I opted for the Flowmaster exhaust as it had a slightly higher volume and a longer flange to attach it to the existing pipe.

I hated the black though so a couple of coats of High temp paint and its silver. Of course explaining to my wife quite why I needed to bake my exhaust in her over for 2 hours was rather entertaining.

I used a 6" stainless 304 clamp designed for diesel smoke stacks to make a second support mount to the engine. This stiffens everything up nicely and allows all of the exhaust to move with the engine.







   
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Arct1k
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01.25.2015, 04:03 PM

Can't be too careful so decided to add an auto fire extinguisher under the passenger seat...

   
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Arct1k
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01.25.2015, 04:05 PM

Wheels back on and ready for the street - well almost...







   
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Arct1k
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01.25.2015, 04:10 PM

So I topped off the tank and was doing some final messing around with some ties/brackets for the gearbox cables and I notice a very strong smell of gas.

First things first - turn off the heater!

Second look under the car to find a puddle of gas :(

Looks like whomever did the welding on the filler didn't do such a great job and it has a hole or 5. It didn't show up before as wasn't under static pressure.



Off to find someone who can MIG weld aluminum
   
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Arct1k
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02.08.2015, 04:16 PM

So a few steps forward with some cosmetic items whilst I wait for the filler connector to be welded...

I installed the new gear shift knob - very nicely machined. If anyone has a brandwood setup this is definitely the way to go...



Next up I replaced the hose connection from the tank - it used a really nasty looking plastic elbow. Found a nice HPS 1" to .75" 90 degree elbow with a .75" 45 degree pipe.

   
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Arct1k
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02.08.2015, 04:17 PM

Next up was replacing the front wheel bearing - I contacted RCR and bought one directly from them but for reference if you that the 3 bolt it is part WBI-513020 which Summit stocks.

ttp://www.summitracing.com/parts/wbi-513020



In addition you will likely need to do like I did and replace the studs with ARP 1007713.

Step 1 - Remove the old hub


Step 2 - Replace the studs on the new hub - I made a small jig to push out the installed ones on the bench without putting any load on the bearing. The new ones were installed by using the pull through method with some throwaway nuts.



Step 3 - Put everything back together again


Steps 4 - The result - No change :(

Click on picture for video...


So is it a bad batch of bearings or is this normal? I've torqued the stub axle bolt to the required 118ft/lbs.
   
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Modding_out
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02.08.2015, 04:51 PM

Thats looking cool arct1k. Do you auto cross at the metlife stadium in Newark? you might see me there this summer
   
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Arct1k
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02.08.2015, 05:28 PM

The intent is to give that a go...
   
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