RC-Monster Forums  
RC Monster

Go Back   RC-Monster Forums > RC-Monster Area > Product Reviews

Reply
 
Thread Tools Rate Thread Display Modes
Old
  (#46)
radioman193
RC-Monster Carbon Fiber
 
radioman193's Avatar
 
Offline
Posts: 237
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: Dansville NY
03.23.2011, 02:06 PM

2.5 to 3A looks alittle high of a charge rate for this type of cell ...........

But if it works for ya thats the Main thing.


Just Fix It !!!
I have been into electronics for 30+ years
and am a licensed Electronics Technician for over 26 years now.

  Send a message via AIM to radioman193  
Reply With Quote
Old
  (#47)
Chadworkz
UE Supermaxx Addict!
 
Chadworkz's Avatar
 
Offline
Posts: 1,006
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Gadsden, Alabama
03.23.2011, 02:49 PM

I took 8 of the little light blue LG Lithium-Ion 3.3v 1200mAh batteries out of 8 of my old LG cell phones and made a 4S2P pack (13.2v @ 2400mAh) out of them that is very light, has great power & capacity, and works awesome in my Profile (Foamy) R/C Air-Planes!

I charge it at 4.8 Amps (2C) with no problems and no over-heating, and it charges in about 15-20 minutes. I fly the plane until it starts to hesitate instead of being snappy and then bring it down for a recharge.

I am collecting batteries from everyone's old cell phones and will soon have 8-10 awesome (FREE) Li-Ion battery packs that are perfect for my Foamies! The only bad thing is, you can't run them in a car or truck, unless it is 1/24 scale or so (which I am building a 1/24 scale Jeep Wrangler Crawler powered by 2 of the Li-Ion cells "2S1P 6.6v @ 1200mAh"), because they just don't have the output-current required by larger cars and trucks.

If you want to use the technology in a big car or truck, where full-discharge and/or over-charge won't hurt the cells, and you don't need a balancer or anything, get LiFe-Po/Li-Fe (A123) cells...they are great for large 1/10 & 1/8 vehicles!


-Chad
PM ME IF YOU HAVE THE BELOW:
VBS, CVDs, GM Single-Speed, OTB, Ultramaxxed, Super6, Strobe, Sprong, CNR Brake, UE Hex, DUH Towers, Predator, Blackbird, GA Blue Screws, HCR F/R Skids & Mutant
  Send a message via AIM to Chadworkz  
Reply With Quote
Old
  (#48)
Bondonutz
Fat Kid Engineering
 
Bondonutz's Avatar
 
Offline
Posts: 3,634
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: Hot as Hell West Central Coast Florida
03.23.2011, 03:42 PM

I purchased this same radio a couple months ago and have hit and miss luck with it at best. This thread has inspired me to trouble shoot and disassemble it.

The first few times I used it it worked flawlessly, slowly but surely It started acting up. I thought at first it was the ESC because the RC would cog and hardly move backwards. Then I tried reprograming the TX to the ESC and never could get the reverse function to work again regardless what I did. At best the reverse would work as described earlier as cogging and no power. A different radio and RX and everything worked perfect. I then tried the 6 different Flysky RX's I have and all did the same, then I tried multiple ESC's and the problem presists. I firmly believe it's the Forward and Reverse switch on the TX. I've removed it and sent a email to Flysky asking if this part can be purchased seperately. I would like to test this at home but have no idea how. Can this switch be found at the local RadioShack ?
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	Transmitter 005.jpg
Views:	393
Size:	28.5 KB
ID:	9828   Click image for larger version

Name:	Transmitter 006.jpg
Views:	366
Size:	34.0 KB
ID:	9829   Click image for larger version

Name:	Transmitter 007.jpg
Views:	383
Size:	35.6 KB
ID:	9830  



I retired from RC, now life is all about guns and long range shooting.

Last edited by Bondonutz; 03.23.2011 at 03:44 PM.
   
Reply With Quote
Old
  (#49)
snellemin
2 KiloWatt RACER
 
snellemin's Avatar
 
Offline
Posts: 2,494
Join Date: May 2007
Location: Houston
03.23.2011, 03:44 PM

I don't care for the manufacture charge limits. There is always a margin they have to go by. I charge all my batteries at 3-4C rates. There is no point of me waisting my time waiting on batteries to charge, just so I can get the most lifecycles out of my pack. If I get 2 years use out of them, I'm good. By then there are newer better cells on the market to mess with. But I wouldn't be so daring with most of the battery cells if I didn't have the FMA Powerlab 8 charger.


6 KiloWatt A123 Racer
GTP-Pletty Big Maxximum+RX8. GTP-C50-6L Hacker+RX8. CRT.5-Pro4+ZTW esc.
24s2p EVG SX 49.6mph Ebike.
18s4p Raptor 60mph Ebike. 11.5KW
   
Reply With Quote
Old
  (#50)
snellemin
2 KiloWatt RACER
 
snellemin's Avatar
 
Offline
Posts: 2,494
Join Date: May 2007
Location: Houston
03.23.2011, 03:49 PM

Bondo, I would put a soldering iron on all the connectors, just to eliminate cold solder joints. Then you can open up your "switch" aka potentiometer and clean it out. I use to spray just plain wd40 in those things for lubrication and cleaning.


6 KiloWatt A123 Racer
GTP-Pletty Big Maxximum+RX8. GTP-C50-6L Hacker+RX8. CRT.5-Pro4+ZTW esc.
24s2p EVG SX 49.6mph Ebike.
18s4p Raptor 60mph Ebike. 11.5KW
   
Reply With Quote
Old
  (#51)
Bondonutz
Fat Kid Engineering
 
Bondonutz's Avatar
 
Offline
Posts: 3,634
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: Hot as Hell West Central Coast Florida
03.23.2011, 03:56 PM

Doing as you suggest now, Thanks Snell.


I retired from RC, now life is all about guns and long range shooting.

Last edited by Bondonutz; 03.23.2011 at 04:50 PM.
   
Reply With Quote
Old
  (#52)
Bondonutz
Fat Kid Engineering
 
Bondonutz's Avatar
 
Offline
Posts: 3,634
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: Hot as Hell West Central Coast Florida
03.23.2011, 04:52 PM

OK, After hitting all connections with solder iron and wd40 the switch it's still the same
Reverse has no power at all and stutters, again this happens with all 6 Flysky Receivers regardless what ESC is being used.

Was worth a shot, thanks anyway Snell

Click on Pic for Video


I retired from RC, now life is all about guns and long range shooting.
   
Reply With Quote
Old
  (#53)
brainanator
RC-Monster Aluminum
 
brainanator's Avatar
 
Offline
Posts: 738
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Williston, ND
03.23.2011, 05:14 PM

use an ohm meter to see what rating the potentiometer has, or to see if it is malfunctioning (resistance should gradually change as you rotate the dial).


OFNA Jammin CRT.5e, Savage Flux HP, MBX5Te, SCX10, Multirotors, foam planes
  Send a message via Yahoo to brainanator Send a message via MSN to brainanator  
Reply With Quote
Old
  (#54)
BrianG
RC-Monster Admin
 
BrianG's Avatar
 
Offline
Posts: 14,609
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: Des Moines, IA
03.23.2011, 05:33 PM

Like brainanator suggested, measure between one of the outer legs to the middle leg and see if the resistance changes smoothly as you rotate the pot. Might want to do the same except with the other outer leg and the middle leg (resistance will change opposite). Go slow when adjusting/measuring though because it may be difficult to see irregular changes on a meter. The pot could simply be "noisy", which may not be visible on a meter; this could cause havoc with the radio electronics too.

That pot looks like a fairly standard part. Even mounts using the shaft collar. Depending on the value, a replacement may be available at RadioShack. To get the value, simply measure the resistance across the two outer legs (the middle is the "wiper"). If RS does have the matching value, make sure it is "linear taper", not "audio taper" (the audio taper resistance changes exponentially to compensate how humans perceive sound). The power rating is irrelevant for what it is being used for as long as the replacement is close to the same size (no PCB mount pots ).

You might also want to see how much extra room (if any) is available around the pot once installed in the radio in case the replacement is physically larger.

Then, it's just a matter of swapping the pots. You could eliminate extra points of potential failure by cutting the connector off that pigtail in your pic and soldering the wires directly to the pot - just make sure you know which wire goes to which pot lead.

Honestly, how hard would it be for manufacturers to use a rotary encoder device instead of a pot? This unit is inexpensive, so I can understand using standard parts, but some of the radios we use are rather expensive and you'd think they would use something that would last a bit longer.
  Send a message via Yahoo to BrianG Send a message via MSN to BrianG  
Reply With Quote
Old
  (#55)
Bondonutz
Fat Kid Engineering
 
Bondonutz's Avatar
 
Offline
Posts: 3,634
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: Hot as Hell West Central Coast Florida
03.23.2011, 05:38 PM

Thank You gentlemen, I'll get back into the TX tonight.


I retired from RC, now life is all about guns and long range shooting.
   
Reply With Quote
Old
  (#56)
lincpimp
Check out my huge box!
 
lincpimp's Avatar
 
Offline
Posts: 11,932
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Slidell, LA
03.23.2011, 11:41 PM

My 2wd pede started doing something like you mentioned Bondo. It would not startup, and I would have to give it a push to get it moving. Once rolling it seemed to work as normal, untill it stopped moving and would not startup. Did this in fwd and rev. I will test the radio gear when I get a chance. Hope it is the esc and not the radio, as I have 5 more rx coming...
   
Reply With Quote
Old
  (#57)
Bondonutz
Fat Kid Engineering
 
Bondonutz's Avatar
 
Offline
Posts: 3,634
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: Hot as Hell West Central Coast Florida
03.23.2011, 11:48 PM

It's the radio, you described the symptoms exactly befor it got really bad. If you find something LMK plz. I'm gonna muck with mine more Thurdsday afternoon.


I retired from RC, now life is all about guns and long range shooting.
   
Reply With Quote
Old
  (#58)
lincpimp
Check out my huge box!
 
lincpimp's Avatar
 
Offline
Posts: 11,932
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Slidell, LA
03.24.2011, 12:06 AM

Quote:
Originally Posted by Bondonutz View Post
It's the radio, you described the symptoms exactly befor it got really bad. If you find something LMK plz. I'm gonna muck with mine more Thurdsday afternoon.
Well that sucks... Figured the sidewinder was going out. Have you contacted hobbypartz?
   
Reply With Quote
Old
  (#59)
Bondonutz
Fat Kid Engineering
 
Bondonutz's Avatar
 
Offline
Posts: 3,634
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: Hot as Hell West Central Coast Florida
03.24.2011, 12:18 AM

No, I bought it from these Jackholes http://www.r2hobbies.com/eng/index.php
Worst internet shopping experience EVER, slow, very poor comunication, SERIOUS language barrier. They shipped my TX in a styrofoam box with no RX's(ordered 5 extra), no instructions or paper work. Waited another 40 days befor I receiived instructions and missing RX's. Then the Azzholes tried to send me a PP invoice ??
A couple weeks later Hobbypartz had them in their inventory, only if I had waited ?

Needless to say I wouldn't piss on these guys if they were on fire, let alone ask for product help.


I retired from RC, now life is all about guns and long range shooting.
   
Reply With Quote
Old
  (#60)
lincpimp
Check out my huge box!
 
lincpimp's Avatar
 
Offline
Posts: 11,932
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Slidell, LA
03.24.2011, 12:26 AM

Well, If mine is bad it will be going back to hobbypartz. We will have to see what their return policy is like. I personally would like another one that works, as I really like the radio.
   
Reply With Quote
Reply


Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools
Display Modes Rate This Thread
Rate This Thread:

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is On

Forum Jump



RC Monster




Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.1
Copyright ©2000 - 2018, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
vBulletin Skin developed by: vBStyles.com