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scarletboa
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05.30.2009, 06:56 PM

the zippy 5000mah 25c packs are the ones i'm using and even with the monster motor i'm using, the batteries don't even heat up to 100F. if you don't mind the extra weight or extra money, get the 5000mah packs. they are THE best value for the money.

or, you could get the 20c packs for a little cheaper if money is a big concern. i still think the 25c packs are the best value though.


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naynay12
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05.30.2009, 11:09 PM

Hmmm ok sorry one more question lol..I just realised the fiegao will be $87US shipped to Australia,the CC 2200kv being $150.With the fiegao,lipos would cost me $100(3s zippy 5000mah 25c) though the cc2200kv could use zippy 4s for just as much power which will cost 60us for 5000mah 4s 25c)
So the zippy 4s with cc 2200kv will cost about $210
Fiegao with zippy 6s will cost about $187.
I will be running the supersimple esc,mech brakes with stock 4.6 tranny,will the tranny hold up to the cc 2200kv?Which option do you think i should take?
   
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  (#33)
TruggyLuva
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05.31.2009, 12:17 PM

Quote:
Originally Posted by naynay12 View Post
Hmmm ok sorry one more question lol..I just realised the fiegao will be $87US shipped to Australia,the CC 2200kv being $150.With the fiegao,lipos would cost me $100(3s zippy 5000mah 25c) though the cc2200kv could use zippy 4s for just as much power which will cost 60us for 5000mah 4s 25c)
So the zippy 4s with cc 2200kv will cost about $210
Fiegao with zippy 6s will cost about $187.
I will be running the supersimple esc,mech brakes with stock 4.6 tranny,will the tranny hold up to the cc 2200kv?Which option do you think i should take?
I say you buy the MMM 2200 combo now, and save up for two 3 cell battery's. There is really no replacement for good technology and I say get it the first time around instead of taking the cheap way out and regretting it later.


LSP | Stampede | Savage X | Rustler | B44
   
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  (#34)
scarletboa
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05.31.2009, 06:26 PM

the reason that i recommend a lower gearing is that the flux tranny has the same gear ratio as the nitro tranny in 1st gear. when the nitro tranny hits 2nd gear, it gains a ton of speed.


They say a good mechanic only needs 2 tools - WD40 & Duct tape. If it moves, and its not supposed to, duct tape. If it doesn't move, and its supposed to, WD40.
   
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naynay12
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06.02.2009, 03:19 AM

Even if the supersimple esc fails its only $30 gone to waste...
Hopefully the tranny wil hold up with the cc2200kv which i plan to use.
Howmuch amps does the cc2200kv pull?
   
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  (#36)
Pdelcast
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06.02.2009, 03:03 PM

Quote:
Originally Posted by naynay12 View Post
Even if the supersimple esc fails its only $30 gone to waste...
Hopefully the tranny wil hold up with the cc2200kv which i plan to use.
Howmuch amps does the cc2200kv pull?
From our testing about 200A on 4S and 350A+ on 6S during acceleration. Average draw at top speed is about 50A on 4S, and about 80A on 6S (at 50mph.)


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scarletboa
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06.04.2009, 02:00 AM

Quote:
Originally Posted by naynay12 View Post
Even if the supersimple esc fails its only $30 gone to waste...
Hopefully the tranny wil hold up with the cc2200kv which i plan to use.
Howmuch amps does the cc2200kv pull?

the cc2200kv motor is rated as a 120a motor, meaning that 125a or higher constant rate batteries are ideal. my KB45-8xl motor is rated as a 150a motor and so far, the batteries mentioned earlier are holding up well and temp at 100F after a run. my spare motor (KB45-12L, going in next week hopefully) is only rated at 100a.

according to a brushless "expert" i've been talking to, the KB-L series motors are about equivalent in power to the CC2200. the KB-XL motors supposedly have 40% more power than the CC2200 motor. the XL motor is complete overkill, even with the cheapo esc i am using. if i had a wheely bar, it would be doing standing backflips at half throttle. the only time i hit full throttle was when my slipper clutch was very loose. hopefully the KB45-12L will be a little less violent. i will be sure to compare it to the cc2200 motor at my lhs once someone finally gets their batteries for their flux.


They say a good mechanic only needs 2 tools - WD40 & Duct tape. If it moves, and its not supposed to, duct tape. If it doesn't move, and its supposed to, WD40.
   
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  (#38)
naynay12
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06.05.2009, 06:47 AM

Ok thanks for the info...i would really like to save money by getting 2 3s 3000mah 20c packs,so your certain they won't overheat,nor the motor?Also would there be much power difference between the 20c 3000mah and the 25c 5000mah?
   
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  (#39)
scarletboa
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06.23.2009, 02:08 AM

naynay, you should be fine with the turnigy 15c (actually 20c-30c) packs. just don't gear too high.

update on my savage:

the esc is now toast due to physical damage. i didn't have it secured in my rustler and wasn't using a body, so when i landed upside down, the esc smacked into the pavement pretty hard. i plan on buying a EZrun 150a esc as they are only $100 and they can handle more current than the mamba monster esc. they use the same mosfets but the EZrun has more of them.

also, i finally decided to lock my tranny into 2md gear. it was actually much simpler than i thought it would be. all i had to do was take the top of the tranny off and then lift the gears out. i JB welded the clutch. now, when i install that new esc, i will have reverse and motor braking. also, now i don't need a rx battery or a brake servo. also, i'll be able to get rid of the brake assembly. that'll be a nice amount of weight removed from the truck. i'm guessing about 1/3 of a pound.

i also noticed that when my truck shifted into 2nd, it never jerked like most trucks do. i found out it was from the motor shaft spinning inside the rotor. i'll try to JB weld the motor shaft to the rotor later. i'll also be sure to get pics and possibly some video once i get my savage running again.


They say a good mechanic only needs 2 tools - WD40 & Duct tape. If it moves, and its not supposed to, duct tape. If it doesn't move, and its supposed to, WD40.
   
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  (#40)
scarletboa
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07.03.2009, 03:22 AM

update on my savage:

i finally got a proper esc for my savage. i got the EZrun 150a esc. soldering the 10ga wire with 4mm bullet plugs was a bitch, but i borrowed a more powerful soldering gun and got it wired and ready to go. it fit perfectly under the motor on top of the purple engine plate. i hooked up my 3s lipos in parallel for a quick test run only to realize that the rotor had separated from the shaft in my KB45-8XL motor. i then finally overcame my laziness and hooked up my brand new KB45-12L motor to the esc with the lipos in parallel and used the trim on my radio to spin the motor consistently while i took my dremel to it. i used my pinion gear to check the size every time i let the shaft cool down after reaching 150-160F. i somehow managed to grind the shaft to the perfect size without any spots being ground too much and then made a flat spot on the shaft for the set screw. i unplugged the lipos and plugged them back in with my series connector. the esc gave 6 beeps as it recognized 6s lipo and as soon as i gave it throttle, my series adapter exploded at the solder joints and the esc let out a ton of smoke.

also, in that tiny burst of throttle, the motor spun backwards and caused the JBweld holding my tranny in 2nd to break loose. now, i need to chisel out the broken JBweld and try to repair it. all these setbacks are making me remember the "good days" of my savage. it always ran flawlessly when it was nitro. it never gave me any issues.

i have terrible luck when it comes to brushless. i opened up my vxl esc after it has been giving me nothing but problems and 2 of the 3 caps have a brown spot on them (i'm assuming their fried) and traxxas wants $45 to fix it after it has been fixed twice by them already. my vxl motor now has a dent due to plastic motor mount flex in my rustler. my cheapo plane esc broke due to a somewhat minor impact. my KB45-8XL motor's rotor detached from the shaft, and now, my nice, brand new esc smoked itself.

the good news is, nitrorcx is willing to exchange my esc. all i have to do is fill out a form and send it in. i'm really impressed with their cs.


They say a good mechanic only needs 2 tools - WD40 & Duct tape. If it moves, and its not supposed to, duct tape. If it doesn't move, and its supposed to, WD40.

Last edited by scarletboa; 07.03.2009 at 02:52 PM.
   
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  (#41)
naynay12
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07.03.2009, 03:33 AM

Damn thats no good,i wanted to see a vid of it running...Don't give up,maybe you should invest in a expensive setup that is more relaible...next time it breaks down.
   
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Nixpus
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07.08.2009, 04:25 AM

Ive found that 2 persons and 2 standard solder irons will help quite a bit when soldering the fat 10 AWG wires. Trying to do it alone with a 80w solder iron was a tiresome experience!!
   
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  (#43)
scarletboa
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07.08.2009, 02:52 PM

Quote:
Originally Posted by naynay12 View Post
Ok thanks for the info...i would really like to save money by getting 2 3s 3000mah 20c packs,so your certain they won't overheat,nor the motor?Also would there be much power difference between the 20c 3000mah and the 25c 5000mah?
i just re-read your post and you want AT LEAST 5000mah packs if you are going to use 20c packs with the CC/NEU motor. it is only $30 for a 20c 3s 5000mah pack from hobbycity. it is labeled as 15c, but it is actually a 20c.

you could use those 3000mah packs, if you were wiring them in parallel.


They say a good mechanic only needs 2 tools - WD40 & Duct tape. If it moves, and its not supposed to, duct tape. If it doesn't move, and its supposed to, WD40.
   
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naynay12
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07.08.2009, 08:52 PM

Ok,and to run 5s,can i run one 3s pack,and one 2s pack in series?
   
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Nixpus
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07.09.2009, 03:13 AM

As long as you pick same brand/cell type it doesn't matter if you connect cell count "x" with cell count "y". The cells just need to be identical... and have the same amount of charge/discharge cycles on them.
   
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