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Balancing R/c Wheels.
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JERRY2KONE
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Balancing R/c Wheels. - 12.04.2008, 03:04 AM

Ok well we have been talking about how to balance our R/C wheels for a while now, because it will deffinitely improve your vehicles handling, and I wanted to share what I have come up with. I started a thread last month on using beadlock wheels instead of gluing regular wheels all the time. What a pain that is. Anyway I have a couple sets of Axial beadlocks now with 40 series tires, and they are great.

Anyway from that thread it lead into taping tires, and balancing wheels for better vehicle performance. So I wanted to take it all the way and do whatever I could to make things work better. So I glued the insert to the rim with a bead of CA glue in either side of the rim in order to keep the insert from shifting during operation, which would throw the wheel balance out of wack. Then I turned the tire inside out and wrapped reinforced packing tape on the center of the wheel two times to help prevent balooning as much as possible. After remounting the tire and clamping them in place on the Axial wheel it was time to do some balancing. Once I figured it out this is really easy to do.

So I had purchased one of those Dubro wheel balancers from T/H, but it is just too small for MT tires. So I mounted the unit halves to my truck stand and spaced the two halves far enough apart to accomodate MT wheels. I also tried their nifty adapter shaft kit, but that is just way to pewny to be of any use with MT wheels. So I had to make up a custom shaft setup for the Axial wheels 17mm adapter. I found something in my shed hardware stuff for the rod ends that works perfectly. It is actually two binder caps for holding paper in a binder.

Then the fun begins. You rotate the wheel slowly and let it settle to a stand still. Usually it will kind of lunge and go back and forth until the heaviest side ends up on the bottom. Then you place some kind of counterweight (on the inside) of the opposite side (top)of the rim. You just repeat this step until the wheel spins freely without lunging or going back and forth. You will see that it actually spins smoothly much longer once you get the balancing correct. Without using a computer it is not a perfect science, but you can get things pretty well setup for inproved performance. It will actually take some strain off of your drivetrain and chassis by doing this. So there you have it. I am attaching some photos from photopbucket of my balancer setup.

I PLACED THE PHOTO LINKS IN A POST BELOW

Last edited by JERRY2KONE; 12.04.2008 at 03:54 AM. Reason: CORRECTIONS
   
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e-rev project
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12.04.2008, 03:13 AM

what did you use as a counter weight?
also the link asks for a password
   
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Counter Weights.
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JERRY2KONE
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Counter Weights. - 12.04.2008, 03:29 AM

I had purchased some of those cheapy pinewood metal weights a while back and never found the need to use them until now. I also just placed and order on T/H for three different types/brands of weights to try out on the next batch of wheels. They come with sticky backs to place them right on whatever you are working on, then I put a little hot glue over the weights for an added measure of safety. I will try and work out that link, thanks.


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what did you use as a counter weight?
also the link asks for a password
   
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Try These Links.
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Try These Links. - 12.04.2008, 03:37 AM

Ok I guess I will have to post them up one at a time.

















   
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Very COOL..
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Very COOL.. - 12.04.2008, 01:05 PM

WOW that's extremely COOL Jerry!!! Please post a short video of the wheel spinning / wobbling so I can see hows it's done.. I've never balanced any of my tires but would love to know how!..

Thanks Sir..

Great Thread..


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12.04.2008, 01:37 PM

Sticky back lead weights do seem like the best bet. I used epoxy putty, but it took alot of it. I just bought 11.35lbs of lead wheel weights (smallest amount carquest would sell me).

Shaun, the heavy part ends up at the bottom (thanks gravity!) so you just apply the weight to the top of the wheel. Takes a bit of trial and error to get the weight correct. Might also be a good idea to see if the rim is balanced. If the rim is not balanced it may be a good idea to mark it as you can index the heavier area of the rim to offset the heavy area of the tire.
   
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TDC57
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12.04.2008, 01:43 PM

WOW so it's a quite involved process!, thanks for the information Linc..

How long per wheel (30 minutes) or so ??

Still would love to see a short Video Jerry if you ever get arround too it..


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12.04.2008, 01:51 PM

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Originally Posted by TDC57 View Post
WOW so it's a quite involved process!, thanks for the information Linc..

How long per wheel (30 minutes) or so ??

Still would love to see a short Video Jerry if you ever get arround too it..
I think it took me an hour to balance 4 of them. I can say it makes a huge difference. I have a thread that details how I taped and balanced my wheels. Next set I do will be for the lst, and I will use the lead weights instead of the epoxy putty, which was a bit messy. I do like the hot glue idea for giving the weights some more support, that sounds like a great idea.

Once you do 1 wheels it really gets easier. You hardly have to spin the tire very fast to find the heavy area. I just hold it and let go. The heavy area finds the bottom easily.
   
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Correct Amundo.
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Correct Amundo. - 12.04.2008, 05:27 PM

Linc is correct in saying that once you do one wheel it becomes terribly easy. I think it took my like ten minutes per wheel once I figured out the proceedure. I had never done that before, but it is very cool once you get your own steps in order. I checked my Axial rims before mounting the tires and they were perfectly balanced in thier bare state. It is the insets and tires that make the rim out of balance. Trust me Shaun once you do this you will never run another vehicle without doing so. Thanks for the supportive words, and I will see if I can put together a video this weekend. That will be a first for me also.

I just got up and it is freezing here in Seoul 30F, and expected to drop to 14F later today for some snow. Have a great evening guys.
   
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12.04.2008, 08:24 PM

Balancing is definately the single best thing you can do if you plan to race, or just run a truck over 20mph. I did 2 wheels on one side of the revo and left the other 2 unbalanced. It was a night and day difference. The side that was unbalanced was nearly lifting the tires off the ground at 45mph, but the balanced side was so smooth. My buddy saw the truck before and after and he swore I had geared it way down, cause it look so smooth he figured I was not going as fast. Taping tires is also a great idea. I only did 1 wrap and overlapped the tape about 1 inch. Hardly any weight added but the tires barely balloon at 45. They are badlands on maximizer beadlocks, btw.
   
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mikey09120
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12.04.2008, 08:55 PM

threadjack!
does anyone know if the tremors are 1/2" offset. it appears that way in the pic at http://www.hpiracing.com/home. are the blast wheels 0 offset?


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Rnemhrd
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12.05.2008, 08:19 AM

Team associated sells tape weights for chassis use. http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXCKT0&P=7 or these http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXK204&P=M

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12.05.2008, 08:25 AM

7grams is too much I use 2.5g weights from standard Car tire service. they cost fraction per piece compared to what you pay in hobby stores. I'd been using balancing putty but work with weighs is way faster and 2.5g is small enough in most cases.


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Rnemhrd
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12.05.2008, 10:37 AM

I have a cuz that works at a tire joint that can get the tape weights. The weights cut easy enough also.
   
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12.05.2008, 07:05 PM

Thanks for the idea! I have a set of bowties that really need to be balanced badly!


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