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Gallagher
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08.11.2009, 03:00 PM

Please see the photo.
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  (#17)
Chadworkz
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08.11.2009, 04:01 PM

Ok, gotcha...I didn't know the pinions were being hexed on the end. Thanks for clearing it up.


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nitrostarter
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08.11.2009, 04:02 PM

They aren't hexed, thats just a flat spot for the set screw.


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  (#19)
isuck@rc
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08.11.2009, 04:21 PM

Chad i'm not seeing anything in the one diff i've assembled so far- just the dogbone outputs- there're nice for my kershaw centre dogbones but for the output (axles) well, they aren't matching up for me.
You know know my level of experience and i'm a little confused atm. Just don't want to spend money i don't have to considering my revos are into me for over $4000 australian now without running.
   
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simplechamp
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08.11.2009, 05:23 PM

The kits come with everything you need to run front and rear stock shafts or dogbones/CVDs.

But, the kit only comes with the proper stuff to run center dogbones/CVDs, not stock shafts. To run the stock center shafts you will need to buy the couplers I linked earlier from the RCM store.

I found this out the hard way, and had to place another order for the couplers. Also found out the hard way that the standard Revo center CVDs don't fit the E-Revo. The only E-revo CVD's I found are the Integy ones, and they aren't going to be compatible with the V3 kits without modifiying or getting custom parts. Kershaw Designs dogbones will work, but I want CVDs.
   
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Chadworkz
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08.11.2009, 06:12 PM

Quote:
Originally Posted by isuck@rc View Post
Chad i'm not seeing anything in the one diff i've assembled so far- just the dogbone outputs- there're nice for my kershaw centre dogbones but for the output (axles) well, they aren't matching up for me.
You know know my level of experience and i'm a little confused atm. Just don't want to spend money i don't have to considering my revos are into me for over $4000 australian now without running.
It only comes with the parts to run center dog-bones or CVDs, but it comes with parts to run either stock wheel axles or wheel CVDs. If you want to run stock plastic centers, you will need the V3 aluminum adapters that RCM sells.


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isuck@rc
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08.12.2009, 04:58 AM

thanks guys i'll go through my kit thats assembled so far- must have missed some parts
   
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Chadworkz
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08.12.2009, 05:25 AM

This is the part you are looking for...they replace the output shafts that have the drive-cups built into them. They stick out of the sides of the diff and allow you to attach your stock plastic axles to them.



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isuck@rc
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08.12.2009, 05:27 AM

thanks again bud really appreciate all the help you've given me on these builds
   
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Gallagher
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08.12.2009, 09:43 AM

A annoying thing happened again.
The stock sliders interfere with the case of the V3.
The couplers have to be trimmed to eliminate the interference.
The V3 is not a direct drop-in modification as I heard.
I am not happy with the investment so far.
   
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isuck@rc
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08.12.2009, 04:16 PM

i don't mind having to modify things- its just i need ikea like instructions on how as i have little to no experience in the areas. Pretty sure i dremelled out waaay too much on my chassis and my v3 rear is either going to move or break the chassis
   
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simplechamp
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08.12.2009, 04:57 PM

I mentioned in an email to RCM Mike that it would be helpful if the description of the V3 hybrids in the store mentioned that you need the RCM shaft couplers to make the V3 kits work with a completely stock Revo/E-revo.

Suggestions for revised V3 manual: comment on needing RCM shaft couplers with stock center driveshafts, go into more detail about how to mod the E-revo chassis, comment on the clearance issue between stock sliders and the V3 diff case (However, this is the first I've heard of it, sure you got everything assembled and seated right Gallagher?).
   
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Chadworkz
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08.12.2009, 06:02 PM

Gallagher: In the pic I posted above, the left side is what sticks out of the diff, and where the stock sliders mount...is this how you did it? There should not be any dremeling of anything to make any of it fit (except removing the little piece from the E-Revo chassis).

isuck@rc: Find a piece of foam that is pretty firm, then put it on top of the diff before you put the chassis on...the foam presses down and locks the diff into place so that it doesn't move, especially if you think you dremeled away too much material.


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  (#29)
Gallagher
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08.12.2009, 09:40 PM

Yes, I did as online manual says.
I discovered the length of left end in the pic between the case is a little bit shorter than the stock and this is how the friction happens. Maybe the case is a little bit thick than the stock or the overall length (in the dimension of output shaft) of the diff inside is shorter the the stock. I also discovered there is gap in the output bearing housing between the bearing and the case. It means I may need put some shims to fill the gap up.
I don't mind to do mod. but not so much as I expect when I bought this.

Last edited by Gallagher; 08.12.2009 at 09:41 PM.
   
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  (#30)
Chadworkz
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08.12.2009, 10:20 PM

Talk to Mike, if something isn't right, he will make it right.


-Chad
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