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  (#31)
Gallagher
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08.17.2009, 12:39 AM

I've mailed to him, but no responding yet. I think I need to order a v3 al coupler to accommodate the diffs to the stock sliders in order to solve the major problm. Before that I decided to dump the diffs into my shelf.
   
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  (#32)
Chadworkz
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08.17.2009, 01:31 AM

Yes, if you want to run the stock plastic center driveshafts, you need to order two V3 Hybrid couplers...I told you this, and linked you to ther parts, in a previous post.

The diffs come with the parts needed to run stock plastic wheel axles.


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  (#33)
Gallagher
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08.17.2009, 02:58 AM

Yes, Chadworkz I got your point. (I mean no offense by the followings.) However, stock sliders are not my first priority. I've got no way to make the v3 work with G3R stock central rear shaft or my customized shaft. That's why I am back to the second alternative.
Indeed, the diffs come with the parts needed to run stock plastic wheel axles. However, it is not simply a "drop in" . Trimming is necessary for the couplers of stock wheel shafts, at least for me.
   
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  (#34)
Appetite
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08.21.2009, 06:52 PM

Hi folks,
I need some help assembling my Hybrid diffs and figured I would post in this thread..

I am in the process of assembling the differentials, but are having problems with the mating of the ring and pinion gear.
The ring gear / carrier assembly seems to be a little crooked no matter what I do, so when I install the completed differential into the diff cases, there is a tight spot when turn the pinion by hand.
I have inspected the mating surfaces of the ring and carrier for burrs and debris, but the result is the same. I also tried aligning the screw holes in the ring gear to different holes in the carrier, but that didn't help either.

What do I need to do to fix this?

Both of the differentials are also leaking a little oil through the output shaft on the non ring gear side. I took them both apart and and reassembled them, but the leak is still there. Is this normal? Maybe I need new O-rings, but it seems strange that both diffs have a leakage on the same side, while the ring side of both diffs do not, no?

This is my first time building 8th scale diffs, so I am not sure what is acceptable and what is not..
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  (#35)
simplechamp
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08.23.2009, 03:50 PM

Quote:
Originally Posted by Appetite View Post
The ring gear / carrier assembly seems to be a little crooked no matter what I do, so when I install the completed differential into the diff cases, there is a tight spot when turn the pinion by hand.
I have inspected the mating surfaces of the ring and carrier for burrs and debris, but the result is the same. I also tried aligning the screw holes in the ring gear to different holes in the carrier, but that didn't help either.
I am having this same issue. When I first got the diffs they were wobbling quite a bit. I emailed Mike and he said take them apart and re-assemble. I did and it seemed to fix the issue (but this was without putting the screws back in, just pressing the pieces together snuggly). Then when I put the screws back in they got crooked again. I think the screws are causing the diff cases to warp maybe? I'm not overtightening them, just making it so the screws sit flush in the countersink of the ring gear. Whatever it is the screws are causing it, because without the screws the ring gear sits perfectly level on the diff cup (at least for me)

I haven't filled mine with oil yet so I can't comment on the leaking. Somehow the O-ring isn't completely sealing I would guess?

I'm not sure what to do about the diff cases not lining up and causing a wobble. I wonder if it's a bad batch of diffs? The cases weren't molded exactly right? There's got to be a way to fix the issue. Maybe Mike can comment on what the best idea is to try to remedy the problem.

My V3 have just been sitting because I was gathering all the stuff I need for the install, so over the next week I'll sit down and play around a little more trying to get the rings gears to sit properly and not wobble.

Last edited by simplechamp; 08.23.2009 at 03:53 PM.
   
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Chadworkz
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08.23.2009, 05:49 PM

Just to make sure, you aren't having problems with Mike's aluminum diff cases, just the plastic diff cup and the diff itself?


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  (#37)
simplechamp
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08.23.2009, 06:18 PM

Yes, the alum outer diff cases are fine, it's the ring gear and plastic diff cups that aren't seating right. The ring gear will wobble when under tension of the screws, almost like the holes are misaligned by a small amount and causing the diff cup to flex. When I assemble the diff it is fine until I put the screws in, then it gets messed up with the screws tightened.

I was going to get alloy diff cups, but Mike said he didn't think there were any that are compatible. Maybe we can find one to work? Either way, I'd rather just fix the issue without spending more money.
   
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  (#38)
Gallagher
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08.24.2009, 12:58 AM

I use shims in the side opposite to ring gear to reduce the tightness between the ring gear and the pinion. My stock revo diffs have the same problem. I shimed it and ignore it. Of coure, it is not a thorough way to solve the problem.
   
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  (#39)
isuck@rc
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08.24.2009, 04:24 AM

Quote:
Originally Posted by Gallagher View Post
I use shims in the side opposite to ring gear to reduce the tightness between the ring gear and the pinion. My stock revo diffs have the same problem. I shimed it and ignore it. Of coure, it is not a thorough way to solve the problem.
I'm no where near as experienced with RC as any of you but i noticed all 4 of my revo diffs -two 2nd hand 2 new do the same thing as what simple is saying as well as my v3's. i guess it's normal but i'm going to shim just incase considering thje money invested.
   
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simplechamp
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08.24.2009, 06:49 AM

One of the main reasons I bought the V3's were to remedy the wobble/binding of the stock E-revo diffs. I would try out a different pair of diffs, but I don't want to spend the money when there is most likely an easy fix to get the V3 diffs assembled properly. I might buy a pair plastic diff cups from Mugen or Ofna and see if those can work. I'm fairly certain it's the diff cups causing the issue.

Also, I have a Caster F8T truggy on the way. It has the same diffs that come in the V3 kits. Once it arrives I'll pull the diffs out and see if they suffer from the same misalignment issues. Maybe the diff cups we got with the V3's are just a bad batch?

I'll email Mike again and link him to this thread. Maybe he can test a few of the diffs he has and see what's going on.
   
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  (#41)
Appetite
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08.24.2009, 12:57 PM

I also think the plastic diff cup is the culprit. I measured the ring gear today, and it seems to be completely flat and true.

The cup, on the other hand, seems to be a little warped. If I measure the outside diameter of the cup, it measures between 29.6mm and 30mm depending on where you measure it..
The inside diameter of the ring gear is 30mm and has a little corner radius, so when you screw the pieces together the sharp corner of the plastic cup actually rests agains the corner radius in the ring gear in some places.
Maybe putting a little chamfer on the cup will help solve the problem?
I'll give it a try tomorrow.
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Arct1k
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08.24.2009, 01:19 PM

You could try using a couple of gaskets...
   
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  (#43)
Chadworkz
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08.24.2009, 01:38 PM

Yea, the gasket should make up for that radius and sharp edge issue, but you might be on to something there Appetite!

Does anyone know if UE/Ofna 8-Spider diffs will fit in mike's V3 cases?


-Chad
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  (#44)
Appetite
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08.25.2009, 02:44 PM

I chamfered the edge on the diff cup today, but it didn't fix the woobling.. :/
   
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isuck@rc
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08.25.2009, 02:46 PM

Quote:
Originally Posted by Chadworkz View Post
Yea, the gasket should make up for that radius and sharp edge issue, but you might be on to something there Appetite!

Does anyone know if UE/Ofna 8-Spider diffs will fit in mike's V3 cases?
as far as i know any 1/8th diff will fit
   
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