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Cen Nemesis XL Brushless Conversion
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IrishChamp
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Cen Nemesis XL Brushless Conversion - 03.12.2012, 07:54 PM

Not much to post on this yet but I wanted to start a build thread. There is nothing too custom about this build, but I'm quite excited about the end result.
Chassis is 3.5 inches longer than stock, got it off of flea bay. :) I think the guy who makes them is Team4Monsters.... It has a couple shortcomings but with a little bit of help it should work great. Aluminum parts are GPM, shocks are losi LST.
Anyway, here is the first picture, many more to come.

Last edited by IrishChamp; 03.12.2012 at 09:48 PM.
   
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IrishChamp
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03.12.2012, 08:03 PM

On a side note, I've never shimmed a diff before. I've found plenty of info on shimming the pinion shaft but nothing on how to shim the sun and planetary gears. I'm using the nemesis diffs which are beefy but I want to make sure I don't neglect them because of that.
   
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_paralyzed_
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03.12.2012, 08:51 PM

Shimming- all shimming is the same. You want to add shims until there is almost no movement, just a tiny bit, a paper width of movement. If there is no movement it's too tight, and more than just a hair of movement is too loose.


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IrishChamp
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03.12.2012, 09:03 PM

Add shims where?
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Originally Posted by _paralyzed_ View Post
Shimming- all shimming is the same. You want to add shims until there is almost no movement, just a tiny bit, a paper width of movement. If there is no movement it's too tight, and more than just a hair of movement is too loose.

Last edited by IrishChamp; 03.12.2012 at 09:48 PM.
   
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_paralyzed_
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03.12.2012, 11:04 PM

With the diff assembled if there is any in/out play in the diff cups you need to shim behind the sun gears to take that play out.

With the diff unassembled you can drop in a sun gear and see where it hits the planetarys. If you feel the mesh could be tightened then shim behind the planetarys.


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It's "Dr. _paralyzed_" actually. Not like with a PhD, but Doctor like in Dr. Pepper.
   
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IrishChamp
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03.12.2012, 11:48 PM

Ok, so behind the sun gear ontop of the rubber seal?
That's what I thought but I was worried about the metal shim against the rubber seal.
Thank you very much!!
Quote:
Originally Posted by _paralyzed_ View Post
With the diff assembled if there is any in/out play in the diff cups you need to shim behind the sun gears to take that play out.

With the diff unassembled you can drop in a sun gear and see where it hits the planetarys. If you feel the mesh could be tightened then shim behind the planetarys.
   
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IrishChamp
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03.15.2012, 06:47 AM

What do you all think of the angle on the center dogbones? I choose this mount because the motor is way down low but I don't have any experience with what angle is ok. The rear is longer so the angle is not much but the front is close to its max up and to the side on the center diff yokes, they allow less angle than the f & r diffs. Also, how much play should the dogbone end have into the yokes? I know the dogbones shouldn't be jammed into the back of the yoke or just barely hanging on.... Is 1/8Th at each ball/yoke point, 1/4 total for each dogbone approx.




Last edited by IrishChamp; 03.16.2012 at 02:35 AM.
   
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IrishChamp
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03.16.2012, 02:35 AM

Bump for some input on the dgbone angles.
   
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pinkpanda3310
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03.16.2012, 09:41 AM

If the dogbone spins freely in the yoke I don't really think it'll be a problem. Though I think the added friction will produce more heat. I also think the diff will get hot from the 1527 anyway. Don't be tempted to put thick oil in the diff because that also will produce more heat (of course). All that put together equals regular diff rebuilds. I don't really know if the yoke will eat your dogbones quickly but even if it does I would expect the diff to be higher maintenance.

You can try to reduce the stress on the diff a few ways - punch control, stay of high grip surfaces (tarmac) etc.. but at the end of the day I think you just need to run it and report back with a video
   
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_paralyzed_
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03.16.2012, 09:56 AM

Those are fine angles. Get her done!


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IrishChamp
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03.16.2012, 01:20 PM

Sense that mount is already attached to the motor you wanna just throw it in the box as well?? ;)

   
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IrishChamp
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03.16.2012, 01:25 PM

You are being sarcastic correct?? Ofna diff lock lube sound good?


Quote:
Originally Posted by pinkpanda3310 View Post
If the dogbone spins freely in the yoke I don't really think it'll be a problem. Though I think the added friction will produce more heat. I also think the diff will get hot from the 1527 anyway. Don't be tempted to put thick oil in the diff because that also will produce more heat (of course). All that put together equals regular diff rebuilds. I don't really know if the yoke will eat your dogbones quickly but even if it does I would expect the diff to be higher maintenance.

You can try to reduce the stress on the diff a few ways - punch control, stay of high grip surfaces (tarmac) etc.. but at the end of the day I think you just need to run it and report back with a video
   
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IrishChamp
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03.16.2012, 01:58 PM

I could also mount it at the back motor facing forward. The angle is a little better I think, diff is lower.






Vs.


Last edited by IrishChamp; 03.16.2012 at 02:42 PM.
   
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killajb
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03.16.2012, 02:58 PM

Thinking aloud here.. but I'm wondering if you can't mount the diff sideways, so that the motor is oriented either on top or beneath it. Some aluminum spacers would give you room to allow for clearance of the spur, and you could even center it between the two chassis plates.
   
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