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Fed up with Slash
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BrianG
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Fed up with Slash - 09.15.2009, 01:49 AM

Argg! If it's not one thing, it's another. Never have I had so many little things go wrong on one vehicle! I run things, find the weak spot, fix it, repeat. Except with this vehicle, I'm stuck in a continuous repeat loop.

- Arms break. Get RPM.

- Diff leaks. Try the mod to seal it. Works for a few runs but then the reduced material at the seal causes premature wear.

- Went brushless, so got the FLM tranny to help cooling. Needed to modify arms to fit the tranny. Also needed to go with different hinge pin setup because the stock ones bind in the hinge pin holes.

- Found out Traxxas motor screws suck. Rated 3mm, but are slightly smaller than any other 3mm screw I have.

- Stock shocks way too soft. Hate the sagging rear end. When taking apart, noticed two of the shocks were empty. Got the Traxxas big bores (waste of money, should have used buggy shocks. But retaining rings were too small to properly hold springs in place with possible danger of popping out. Used a mix of retaining rings to get the proper fit and then used stiffer springs.

- Input shaft has side to side play causing pinion set screw to eat somewhat into the spur teeth. Shimmed it properly.

- Brushless system too strong for stock axles. Get FLM CVDs. One of the set screw holes is very tough to screw in. Used a different pin (from a Revo outdrive IIRC).

- Diff wobbles. Again, crappy diff design. Tired of messing with it, I just JBWelded the gears. Turns rather crappily (expected that), but kinda like the way it handles now. Supports my turn-at-WOT driving style.

- Rear bumper mount breaks (pretty crappy design IMO). Get the RPM mount. Doesn't line up very well and needs mods to work. Even then, not happy with the result, but should work.

- CVD pins pop out at the tire end. Mod the pins so the set screw keeps them from falling out. The retaining ring should have prevented this, but some rock or something pushed it to one side.

I'm sure there are a couple more things I've forgotten, but I want to huck this thing out the window! It reminds me of an old 1:1 car; should I keep dumping $$$ into it thinking this will be the last big thing, or do I just cut my losses and get rid of it?

Don;t get me wrong, I don't mind tinkering. But I try to make these things as tough as possible right off the bat so any tinkering is because I want to, not because I have to. Every vehicle breaks, but this is just ridiculous! This Slash spends more time on my bench than its wheels.

:sigh: Thanks for listening. Just needed to vent.
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rootar
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09.15.2009, 02:36 AM

might as well keep it BG it aint worth squawt otherwise no matter what all mods it has.

From my experience which is alot with the slash as it is the most used and abused truck ive ever owned.


ditch the flm tranny mine gave me more trouble than anything else on the truck..... use the stock tranny with the rpm bumper mount makes it bullet proof in the rear

Build the stock shocks with at least aluminum caps and 60 or 70 wt oil all around (handles great like this) i use 1/8th buggy fronts in the rear

get the ST racing captured hingepins (best mod yet, next to the rpm front chassis brace/skid thing)

use the rpm chassis braces, fixes steering rack issues and much stronger design.

the trick to keeping the retaining rings on the cvds is to CA glue them yep once they are in place put a drop of ca glue of the table and take a tiny flat screw driver and get a little on it and just put a couple tiny little dabs on the retaining ring and walla they only come off when you get some acetone and want them too.

Get the Rpm shock towers or aluminum towers because the stock ones provide too much flexx and will lead to bent shafts and a poor handling truck.


there is no true fix for the diff unless you buy the flm, so just put some oil in it and let it go for 2-3 months and then fill it back up....


if prepared right it really is a tough truck.... mine has been running on 3s and 9L since it was released and its held up to alot of crap and alot of other people driving it also.....
   
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big greg
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09.15.2009, 04:37 AM

they were cool for like 5 mins! lol
   
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pinkpanda3310
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09.15.2009, 07:56 AM

Just like a 1:1 lemon- you'll be glad to see the back end of it
   
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junkman
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09.15.2009, 08:15 AM

wow, I have to say I have had pretty much 0 problems out of it. It just has a velineon setup in it, but I have had it a year this week, been brushless on 3s since day one.Aside from one broken rear arm, and having to pop the rear bumper mount back where it should go, and a couple stripped spurs, it's been good to me. Maybe mine is underpowered compared to yours, but I have never had a complaint with it, or felt it really needed more. Did put some losi shocks on it as well.
   
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asheck
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09.15.2009, 09:58 AM

Yeah, sometimes I just go round and round with my Slash :) http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OQRJxi-4fLc
   
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BrianG
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09.15.2009, 10:55 AM

Quote:
Originally Posted by rootar View Post
might as well keep it BG it aint worth squawt otherwise no matter what all mods it has.

From my experience which is alot with the slash as it is the most used and abused truck ive ever owned.


ditch the flm tranny mine gave me more trouble than anything else on the truck..... use the stock tranny with the rpm bumper mount makes it bullet proof in the rear

Build the stock shocks with at least aluminum caps and 60 or 70 wt oil all around (handles great like this) i use 1/8th buggy fronts in the rear

get the ST racing captured hingepins (best mod yet, next to the rpm front chassis brace/skid thing)

use the rpm chassis braces, fixes steering rack issues and much stronger design.

the trick to keeping the retaining rings on the cvds is to CA glue them yep once they are in place put a drop of ca glue of the table and take a tiny flat screw driver and get a little on it and just put a couple tiny little dabs on the retaining ring and walla they only come off when you get some acetone and want them too.

Get the Rpm shock towers or aluminum towers because the stock ones provide too much flexx and will lead to bent shafts and a poor handling truck.


there is no true fix for the diff unless you buy the flm, so just put some oil in it and let it go for 2-3 months and then fill it back up....


if prepared right it really is a tough truck.... mine has been running on 3s and 9L since it was released and its held up to alot of crap and alot of other people driving it also.....
Oh, I know it doesn't have any resale value, so I probaby will keep it and continue trying to bullet-proof it.

All of my problems have been solved, but it seems like when one problem is solved, another pops up. There seems to be no single weak point, the whole thing is weak. Granted, I am running a Medusa 36-50-2200 on 4s, but that's hardly "extreme" - it's really just for runtime. I did already get the RPM towers and skids, axle carriers, etc.

I ended up coming up with a solution for the bumper mount and will finish it tonight (will post pics).

I was just very frustrated with all the little things. Next time, I'm just going to stick to the 8th scale platform because it is tough and proven.
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BrianG
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09.15.2009, 12:13 PM

Ugg, I thought I had problems. I go over to the Trx site (because just maybe they might have something of use), and saw this: http://monster.traxxas.com/showthread.php?t=491485

I guess you have to be thankful for the good things, and motor/ESC heat is one of those for me...
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rootar
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09.15.2009, 12:42 PM

no kidding BG it just blows me away with the rediculous crap on the natzi forums....

i had the flm adapter for the bumper mount but any time it would get a big hit it would bend or break the screws through the tranny plate, and eventually the tranny plate started bending, then i could never keep the hinge blocks screws tight (tried red and blue locite) but they would ALAYS work loose and the 1* blocks looked like 4s .....


how much runtime do you get out of your setup? i get a good 45 minutes to an hour of bashing with my 3s and 9l with a good 3s 5000 geared for low 40s with badlands..... i usually get bored before the battery dies.... and never any heat.
   
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rootar
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09.15.2009, 12:50 PM

Quote:
Originally Posted by asheck View Post
Yeah, sometimes I just go round and round with my Slash :) http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OQRJxi-4fLc

how are the drive shafts holding up? i wish mine was a little wider but i sure do need to invest alot more money in this Traxxas Slash
   
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BrianG
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09.15.2009, 01:44 PM

I don't know about the runtime. I too usually get tired and stop it before the battery is dead. But, I currently use a MA 5Ah 4s pack, and even that gets pretty toasty towards the end of the run. Pretty bad when a "100A" battery is pushed that far in a light setup geared for ~40mph. I really need to get a new 4s pack.

Other than that pin coming out, the CVDs are holding up fine, even with the RPM arms.
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dezfan
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09.15.2009, 02:26 PM

Best way to fix the Slash is to buy an SC10.

Even after all of the upgrades, the Slash still has a crappy, loud, and huge tranny, slipper design is horrible, suspension and link geometry suck, shock suck, need I go on?

All I have done to my SC10 for preventative measures is switch out the front A-arms to GT2 arms and added a chassis brace.

My highly modded TT Slash.


My Sc10.
   
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4xFord
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09.15.2009, 03:38 PM

I couldn't be happier with my Slash. I bought it used, all stock except for alum arms. I added a Mamba Max, Velinion motor, and 3s let her rip!


I went to my property in the extremely rocky Texas hill country and was hucking it off our MX jumps. I took some 8 ft nose dives, cartwheels, 8 ft flat lands, etc. Only damage was a popped off shock cap. I would like to see an SC10 take the beating it took.

Most reliable and resiliant RC I have owned yet!
   
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BrianG
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09.15.2009, 03:50 PM

I guess I just have a lemon, or expected more than I got then. I would blame it on being Traxxas, but I have had a converted Revo, and currently have a converted jato and converted nitro 4-tec all with very few problems (The Revo did take some doing to get the tranny solid though). The jato has been about the most resilient thing I own. Maybe that's it; the only vehicle that came electric is the only one with problems. Everything else has been converted.
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Topspeedtimmy
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09.15.2009, 04:15 PM

Keep in mind the Slash is based off the original Rustler/Stampede designs which are ancient (roughly 10 years?). The suspension, steering, and transmission are the same with minor tweaks. Most R/Cs that can trace their roots back to then have been completely redesigned since then (Associated stadium trucks). The Jato and Revo are modern well thought-out designs.


The timmy - Revo 3.3 MM 9XL 4s , Rustler MM 4600 3s
The ferty - Dual velineon Revo 3s, Rustler velineon 3s
   
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