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Any Car Audio Gurus Out There?
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rawfuls
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Any Car Audio Gurus Out There? - 07.17.2012, 09:48 PM

I have a silly old 2001 KIA Sportage... the stock speakers are absolute awful... and there's only two speakers (Passenger Door & Driver Door), so replacing both shouldn't be as expensive as I've thought. (Oh yeah, I have some in the trunk, two).

Since this would be pretty budgetary, any quick suggestions?
I'd like to just replace the speakers alone, and not complicate things with a new amp..

I just want a bit more bass and some more highs...
I'm not going for any audio competitions, just want some more to make it not sound like I'm listening to scratch...

Obviously, keeping a stock amp would be pretty limiting, but I think that's fine.
I have a rather new radio deck..

Last edited by rawfuls; 07.17.2012 at 09:49 PM.
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07.17.2012, 11:31 PM

Speaker upgrade will make a HUGE (like as big as bondo's ass) difference.

I would go with a decent coaxial speaker (tweeter mounted in the middle). Do not go overboard, I would think you can scorre some decent speakers for about 30-40 a pair. Or maybe alot less, I have not priced car audio recently.

Do not go with big power handling speakers, as they will likely need more than your amp can push. Just about any aftermarket speaker with a plastic cone and a seperate tweeter will be light years ahead of the stock paper cone speaks.

I bet you have a walmart or similar that will have some cheap off brand speakers real cheap. Or hit up ebay, etc...

Crutchfeild.com will have a chart or something to tell you the speaker size.

As for added bass, well a powered 8"-10" sub will be the best bet. Many will allow you to just tap into existing speaker wires for signal.

Do you have the factory head unit (cd paler, tape deck, 8track, etc)? Or an aftermarket unit? Yeah, I just asked you about your unit, live with it.
   
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07.17.2012, 11:48 PM

Sweet!

I was actually just doubting the difference between stockers and just fairly new upgraded ones.

I wanted to keep cost down a bit, and I'm also thinking about pushing this back until my summer savings goal is hit (bumped it up another 1k with my new hours & on-site pay raise).

How much would you recommend limiting the power to each speaker to be?
I'm looking at some 50W speakers, specifically these:
http://www.crutchfield.com/p_130TSA1...4R.html?tp=105
http://www.crutchfield.com/p_130TSD1...2R.html?tp=105

I have little to no idea what any of the ratings on speakers are, so if you could throw out some recommendations based on the ratings?

Obviously, I'd pick them up elsewhere than crutchfield, seeing as they are much more expensive on crutchfield.
Trying to limit myself to 40-50 for a pair, times 2 (two in the trunk cargo, two in the front).
Also... definitely don't want to blow out my amp.. don't need to go dropping some billz on dat.

Until I can go run out and look at the deck, it's a Sony Xplod, the red (if it matters) LED'd model, one with Aux input but no USB output/input.
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07.18.2012, 12:12 AM

If you turn the bass level down (0 or negative) do the stock speakers sound okay?

Usually people turn the bass up, and door speakers just physically are not large enough to produce good bass, so the sound distorts and the highs are effected because they are coming out of the same speaker.

Even the best door speakers won't produce much bass, again, they are too small.

I would start with a 8" or 10" sub. (powered is easiest, they are cheap on ebay)

Turn down the bass on the radio so the front speakers are only playing mids and highs (what they were designed for) and use the level control on the amp or powered sub to set the correct bass level.

Any aftermarket door speakers will be way way waaaay better than the stock units, but you mentioned wanting bass, and you just can't get any decent bass without a subwoofer.

Also, rear speakers won't help you in the drivers seat at all. Rear speakers are for rear passengers. You'd be best off getting a sub, then if the highs still aren't enough replace the front speakers.

Stock speakers can usually play quite loud if you don't send bass to them. Better yet, if your deck has crossovers use them and completely eliminate any bass information from going to the speakers.

Subs are for bass. Bass needs subs.


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07.18.2012, 12:24 AM

Hmm, I think I may have bass turned up a tad bit.
So I should spend some money on a powered sub and front speakers if I want more mids/highs, rather than drop some money on the cargo speakers?

I'm super lost on the powered subs..
Suggestions?
Would I need to designate a space for such? I'm sure I could toss it in the back cargo.
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u pull it or pick a part - 07.18.2012, 12:35 AM

you can get some out of some thing with a better sound sys that will fit you car for cheap or go to walmart I think I paid 60$ http://www.walmart.com/ip/Pioneer-TS...akers/17217905 I got the same ones in my integra gsr and sounds good not the best no amp 50w Pioneer deck
   
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07.18.2012, 12:51 AM

Yeah, your front speakers sound like crap because you are trying to play bass through them and they are distorting. Eliminate the bass playing through them and they will be able to play mids and highs much better.

The sub can go anywhere. Bass is non-directional. Just throw it in the cargo area, but strap it down somehow, things move around a lot under hard braking/cornering.

You mentioned wanting bass, and you just won't get any appreciable bass from door speakers. And your mids and highs will greatly improve if you don't run bass to the door speakers.

I'm trying to give you the best bang for your buck.

You will get way way waaay better mids and highs if you replace the door speakers, but you will still not get any decent bass with them. You need subs for bass.

A powered sub is a nice all in one solution for bass. It consists of a subwoofer, enclosure and amplifier all in one unit.

Here is a darn good one that is pretty cheap http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-Pyle-PLT...ht_3425wt_1165

Some people will say the "pyle" brand are junk, but I assure you they work well. It's just not a super name brand like alpine.

If you only want better mids and highs, get door speakers, but you will still have no bass.

Adding a sub and turning down the bass to the door speakers will give you bass and better mids and highs.

If you can swing it, get door speakers and a sub!

Adding rear speakers will not help your mids and highs. Mids and highs are very directional, and unless you can see the speaker from where you sit you will not hear it well. Most of the sound from rear speakers is absorbed or reflected off the rear seat.


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07.18.2012, 12:57 AM

Hmm, you seem to have sold me, paralyzed!

Powered sub only, for now, it is!

Until then, I will lock the adjustments in.
Should I zero everything out to be 0 balanced?

Any other bass recommendations?
Really liking just a powered sub... maybe cheaper would be cooler, but don't want anything super cheap.
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07.18.2012, 01:18 AM

Anything cheaper than the pyle I linked to would be super cheap and shady. Pyle is inexpensive but quality.

A similar bazooka tube (high end) would be $300+

Do you have the owners manual for the cd player? If it has built in crossovers you can use those to completely eliminate any bass from going to your front speakers. (recommended)

You can find a manual online if you don't have one.

If you don't have crossovers I recommend setting the bass to zero, and do whatever you want with the highs.

If you do have crossovers, you don't need to turn the bass level down, because the deck is already blocking the bass for you, but you'll have to set that setting.

What's the decks model number? I'll take a look and be able to give you better advice.


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07.18.2012, 01:29 AM

Interesting..
Would love it if you could take a quick look.
Pyle will be added to my to-do list!

Sony Xplod CDXGT25MPW

How's the setup for the powered sub?

Whattup with this little guy?
http://www.walmart.com/ip/Bazooka-BT...ube-6/13812423

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07.18.2012, 04:46 AM

that sub you linked to is passive (non-powered) you would also need an amplifier to power that sub.

I'll look at the owners manual and report back....


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07.18.2012, 05:16 AM

okay, so your head unit has crossovers! It shows how to set the crossovers on page 10-11 of the "operating instructions" manual- http://esupport.sony.com/US/p/model-...ls#/manualsTab

I'd set the HPF (high pass filter) to 100hz.

A high pass filter electronically filters the bass out of the information being sent to the speakers. This is way better than just turning the bass down to make your mids/highs perform better.

Using a HPF completely eliminates the bass, so you can still use the radio controls to turn the bass up and down, and not worry about distorting your front speakers.

Earlier I was telling you to "turn the bass down". That's a rude/amateur way to make your fronts sound better. Using an HPF is the proper way to keep the bass away from the fronts.

To install a powered sub you will need a good size power cable going from your battery to the sub. You also need an RCA cable and a remote turn on lead running from the back of your deck to the sub. You also need to find some good solid unpainted metal to use as a ground for the sub(somewhere in the cargo area)

For someone who's done it, it's no big deal. If you've never done it, it can be intimidating. But it's easy...

Figure out how much time/work/money you want to invest in better tunes.

Adding a sub is certainly a lot more work than just replacing door speakers, but the sound will be way better.

I tend to kind of ramble, but I'll help you figure this out! Keep shooting me questions and I'll keep answering. If you have specific questions that need a specific answer number them for me, it helps to keep me from rambling on...


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07.18.2012, 10:39 AM

No problem, I like rambles!
They tend to briefly cover things I didn't know about..

What exactly are the crossovers, I know that it will cut the bass from going into the fronts, but is it a physical connection I need to make- or just a setting?

From the manual, it looks like I just turn HPF to 100mhz and yay...?

What's the guage of the wiring I should run from the battery to the sub?
Sounds kind of hectic if I'm trying to hide a rather thick wire through the firewall through the door sills (probably), and into the back..

The unpainted metal isn't an issue, there's lots of it behind the trim panels.

I turned down the bass like you said (I knew it would distort a lot when I set everything up long ago, but didn't think it'd do it that much), and the fronts don't distort as badly anymore.
It's still up in the air if I want to drop some more money on this car.. or if I should just keep saving... It's not much of an issue to be honest, just something that would be awesome to have.
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07.18.2012, 01:16 PM

Some other good info to remember:

   
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07.18.2012, 03:05 PM

Thanks for that linc... I was eating lunch
   
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