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My Neu Maxx is almost done
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mkrusedc
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Smile My Neu Maxx is almost done - 09.09.2007, 02:18 PM

I ran my Neu Maxx for the first time today! Well not the first time but let me start at the beginning. After constantly repairing a broken RC10 T3 with a 2s LiPo MM 7700 Kv, I bought an E- Maxx. I thought with all the upgrades and after market parts available I shoud be able to have a great brushless basher. So first came the upgrades. I tried to keep it as light and strong as I could.

Upgrades:
Castle Mamba Max esc
Two 7-cell, matched and zapped NiMh packs from SPC and 2 TrakPower 2S1P 4900 mAh LiPo battery packs
PowerStroke coil over shocks
12 Associated slipper balls with heavey duty spring
Traxxas wheelie bar
RPM suspension arms
RPM axle carriers
Traxxas 3.3 turnbuckles
Traxxas 3.3 drive shafts
Revo wheels
RC-Monster steel dog bone center shafts
Traxxas 3.3 gray bulkheads
Power Pole connectors
Futaba S3305 MG steering servo
Gorilla Max single speed transmission
RPM shock towers and body posts
RC-Monster steel idler
FLM aluminum diff cups with modified gear and 3 mm screws

Next I had to find a motor. I wanted all the speed that I was used to with my stadium truck. After searching forums and asking questions Mike suggested a Neu 1515/1y and a UBEC.

Then the fun started. The Neu is so big that it hits the transmission, so you can only use larger spurs and pinions. If not the gears would not mesh. The problem was the MM controller would cog with the 4 pole Neu if the gears were too large. I tried anyway. With Brian's gear calculator I figuered out the smallest gears that would mesh. With a 52t mod1 Associated gear and a 17t pinion I thought I was read to go. I put 14 cells in and....nothing. I was over voltage. Apparently Castle had changed the fet board and my MM would no longer run on 14 cells. I tried only 7 cells and it actually rolled, but cogged like crazy.

Which brings me to today. I got my bother to solder up some bullet connectors dropped in two TrakPower 2s lipos and She rolled!




Differential Ratio: 2.8461538461538462
Transmission Ratio: 1.7222222222222223
Spur Tooth Count: 52
Pinion Tooth Count: 17
Total Voltage: 14.8
Motor KV: 2200
Tire Diameter (inches): 6
Tire Ballooning (inches): 0
Motor Current Draw: 0
Motor coil Ω: 0.006
Spur/Pinion Ratio: 3.06 : 1
Total Ratio: 14.99346 : 1
Tire Circumference (inches): 18.85 inches (478.78mm)
Total Motor Speed: 32560 RPM
Vehicle Speed: 38.76 MPH (62.27km/h)
Effective Speed Rate: 2.62mph/V (4.21kmh/V)
Effective KV Value: 2200

I hope to add a Strobe or Kippster slipper, lighter wheels and a MGM speed controller because I hate the cogging.

Thanks to everyone in this forum for all the advice and help.
   
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MetalMan
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09.09.2007, 02:22 PM

Looks good! However, I have a feeling your diffs might be begging for mercy soon .


SH Z-Car, Custom Crawler, 8s Savage, 12s XTM XLB 1/7 buggy, 4wd 4-link rear/IFS Pro4 truck, Custom Hyper 10 Short Course, Belt-Drive Mammoth ST 1/8 truggy, 4s 17.5 MM Pro HPI Blitz
   
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mkrusedc
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09.09.2007, 02:33 PM

I was trying to keep it as light as possible. But this thing is insanely fast and a little extra weight may be good. 1/8 diffs with aluminum cases aluminum bulks and an extended chassis.
   
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zeropointbug
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09.09.2007, 03:09 PM

Everything looks fine on this truck (especially the electronics!), but, GET AN FLM CHASSIS!!!

A couple of cartwheels and it could be gone! No jokes!


“The modern astrophysical concept that ascribes the sun’s energy to thermonuclear reactions deep in the solar interior is contradicted by nearly every observable aspect of the sun.” —Ralph E. Juergens
   
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mkrusedc
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09.09.2007, 03:55 PM

Thanks for the comment zero.
I have already end over ended it. The cogging was helped tremendously by making the throttle curve exponential. At the 30% mark I pulled down until I got a nice smooth curve. It is fairly shallow and I may deepen it. My current settings are:
brake 30%
punch 80%
start pwr low
drag brake disabled
motor timing low

However with the drag brake disabled, reverse slams on with almost an immediate stop and if I am not careful just end over ends.
   
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MetalMan
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09.09.2007, 05:29 PM

If you increase the start power to high, that will also help to reduce cogging.


SH Z-Car, Custom Crawler, 8s Savage, 12s XTM XLB 1/7 buggy, 4wd 4-link rear/IFS Pro4 truck, Custom Hyper 10 Short Course, Belt-Drive Mammoth ST 1/8 truggy, 4s 17.5 MM Pro HPI Blitz
   
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jnev
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09.09.2007, 05:58 PM

The Maxx is looking awesome. It is a shame, that MM coggs with the 1515/1y so much. This is the motor I was planning on getting to try with my MM ESC. Guess I'll have to save up even more and go for an MGM.


   
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aqwut
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09.09.2007, 08:13 PM

looks good... are you liking the anderson power poles...go to deans Bro... for sure the drivetrain is crying... ;D


The Power of BRUSHLESS!!!!!
http://www.geocities.com/aqwut
1HP (electric) = 746 Watts.
Everything is brushless!!
   
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suicideneil
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09.09.2007, 08:29 PM

Tis none too shabby. One thing I will suggest is make sure screws holding the drive cups on the tranny & diffs are threadlocked to heck, or better still use the stock traxxas screw/pin thingy- I find it a bit more solid in that it locks the cups to the output shafts. You will also need lots of threadloc on those too.
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mkrusedc
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09.09.2007, 09:38 PM

Quote:
Originally Posted by MetalMan View Post
If you increase the start power to high, that will also help to reduce cogging.
Thanks. To keep cogging to a minimum it appears start power high and high punch control would be best, right?
   
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mkrusedc
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09.09.2007, 09:43 PM

Quote:
Originally Posted by jnev View Post
The Maxx is looking awesome. It is a shame, that MM coggs with the 1515/1y so much. This is the motor I was planning on getting to try with my MM ESC. Guess I'll have to save up even more and go for an MGM.
The more I tweak it the better it gets. Also, just a little bit of throttle to get it rolling and then wot never cogged on my second run.


"looks good... are you liking the anderson power poles...go to deans Bro... for sure the drivetrain is crying... ;D"

Luv the PowerPoles be the PowerPoles! When I first installed them with 2 stock Titans on 14 cells the acceleration was noticably better. If the are good enough for BattleBots and the US Navy the are good enough for me. (Plus I never learned how to solder)
   
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zeropointbug
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09.09.2007, 10:05 PM

Sorry you took the comment wrong...

Just saying it won't last long, the screws that connect to the bulkheads are the first and most easily broke.... or at least the holes break out.

Other than that, your truck is TOP notch for powertrain. You could actually go for a 1512 motor and still be more than powerful with that light of a truck.


“The modern astrophysical concept that ascribes the sun’s energy to thermonuclear reactions deep in the solar interior is contradicted by nearly every observable aspect of the sun.” —Ralph E. Juergens
   
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mkrusedc
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09.09.2007, 10:24 PM

Quote:
Originally Posted by suicideneil View Post
Tis none too shabby. One thing I will suggest is make sure screws holding the drive cups on the tranny & diffs are threadlocked to heck, or better still use the stock traxxas screw/pin thingy- I find it a bit more solid in that it locks the cups to the output shafts. You will also need lots of threadloc on those too.
Thanks for the comments. I already have them threadlocked. I lost a few before w/ Titans and 14 cells
   
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aqwut
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09.09.2007, 10:28 PM

I'm glad you're happy with the poles dude... :)

if you really like the power poles.. you can get the 45 Amp bars from robotmarketplace.com.. that's where I get a lot of my stuff..

robot combat uses the really "BIG" pole connectors... :)

this would be worth the upgrade.. Just tryin' to help you out dude.
http://www.robotmarketplace.com/mark...onnectors.html
45 Amp PowerPole Extra Contacts


The Power of BRUSHLESS!!!!!
http://www.geocities.com/aqwut
1HP (electric) = 746 Watts.
Everything is brushless!!
   
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mkrusedc
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09.09.2007, 10:31 PM

Quote:
Originally Posted by zeropointbug View Post
Sorry you took the comment wrong...

Just saying it won't last long, the screws that connect to the bulkheads are the first and most easily broke.... or at least the holes break out.

Other than that, your truck is TOP notch for powertrain. You could actually go for a 1512 motor and still be more than powerful with that light of a truck.
No, I didn't take it wrong. I apperciate the advice. RCShocker has been after me to upgrade my bulks. With the insane speed I am getting a little extra weight and length would be helpful.

I think a FLM chassis and 1/8 diffs, and AL bulks are in order.
   
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e-maxx, flm, mgm, neu, ulimited engineering


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