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What's_nitro?
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09.10.2007, 12:04 AM

Have you thought about the FlexTek suspension? From a strengh-to-weight standpoint you can't get much better than titanium! They shouldn't weigh much more (if any more) than the RPM arms.


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mkrusedc
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09.10.2007, 12:12 AM

Quote:
Originally Posted by What's_nitro? View Post
Have you thought about the FlexTek suspension? From a strengh-to-weight standpoint you can't get much better than titanium! They shouldn't weigh much more (if any more) than the RPM arms.
Sounds like just what I would want. Got a link?

Never mind. I got it. What about a titanum chassis? Does anyone make one?

Edit: Ouch almost $300 bucks. I just spent almost that much on an MGM controller. I think an extened chassis and stronger diffs first. Thanks for the advice. Maybe I can talk my wife into them for my bithday in February.

Last edited by mkrusedc; 09.10.2007 at 12:20 AM.
   
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VintageMA
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09.10.2007, 02:18 PM

Quote:
Originally Posted by mkrusedc View Post
Thanks for the comment zero.
I have already end over ended it. The cogging was helped tremendously by making the throttle curve exponential. At the 30% mark I pulled down until I got a nice smooth curve. It is fairly shallow and I may deepen it. My current settings are:
brake 30%
punch 80%
start pwr low
drag brake disabled
motor timing low

However with the drag brake disabled, reverse slams on with almost an immediate stop and if I am not careful just end over ends.
Do you have the MM set for Forward/Reverse or Forward/Brake/Reverse? If you don't have it set for the later the MM will kick it right into reverse when you move the throttle past neutral. If you have it set to Brake and then reverse it will slow the truck and require you to return the throttle to netural for min 2 secs. before it will allow reverse to engage. Also I would set some negative exponential curve on the Brake settings tab. Switch the line to "curve" and drag the line from 40% down to 30% at the 40% brake throttle mark and that should give your finger a little extra throw before the brakes really kick in.


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mkrusedc
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09.10.2007, 03:52 PM

Thanks. I'll check when I get home.
   
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VintageMA
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09.10.2007, 11:49 PM

Sorry, my bad - I didn't remember the setting right off the top of my head.

'Forward to Brak to Reverse' is the one that will slam into reverse on you.

The softer handling one with the reverse delay is 'Proportional w/ Reverse Lockout'. This is the one with the 2 second delay return to neutral before allowing reverse setting. This is the better setting to use if you want reverse. You only reverse when bashing to get out of a pickle and with this setting you will not get reverse unless you really want it.


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mkrusedc
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09.11.2007, 05:05 PM

Thanks that is the one I was using, Forward to brake to reverse. Even at 20% of brake it was still flipping. I'll try the proportional w/ reverse lockout tonight.
   
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VintageMA
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09.11.2007, 05:10 PM

That'll probably fix your problem. You might want to bump the brakes up to 50% until you find the right setting when you make the change - just so you actually have some brakes.


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mkrusedc
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09.12.2007, 06:32 PM

Hopefully GOOD BYE and GOOD RIDDANCE to MM cogging. I just got my TMM 16018 in the mail. Beefy compared to the MM. I can't wait to install...........

Last edited by mkrusedc; 09.12.2007 at 06:37 PM.
   
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lxmuff
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09.13.2007, 09:44 PM

What's the latest?


Quote:
Originally Posted by mkrusedc View Post
Hopefully GOOD BYE and GOOD RIDDANCE to MM cogging. I just got my TMM 16018 in the mail. Beefy compared to the MM. I can't wait to install...........
   
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mkrusedc
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09.15.2007, 10:28 PM

Here it is. I just finished the install. Now to program it.........



   
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jnev
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09.15.2007, 11:25 PM

Looks good. Let us know the programming is? Hope it runs well fro you.


   
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mkrusedc
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09.17.2007, 02:25 AM

I'll tweak the programming tomorrow and check temps. So far the inital test runs were very smooth with zero cogging.
   
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mkrusedc
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Talking 09.22.2007, 05:00 PM

I finally got a chance to run my NeuMaxx. Bashed for about 35 minutes on the New Orleans levee. 20 minutes into it the tires were still balooning. . It ran very smooth without any cogging.

Temps were:
90F ambient
117.6F esc
128.2F motor

The only damage was 3 lost body clips and a mounting screw for one of my shocks stripped out of the arm hole.

I'll try to post another threads with my first attempt at vids.
   
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jnev
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09.22.2007, 07:26 PM

Great news man!! Glad you had fun. Less than 130*F is great for all your electronics even though they are top notch. Don't think you'll be needing a fan any time soon.

I'll be expecting the video!!


   
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suicideneil
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09.23.2007, 10:35 AM

That is an excellent result, those temps are brilliant. As for the shock screws, it might be worth getting one long screw that goes all the way through and holds both shocks to the tower, then use a nyloc nut on the other end to hold it in place.
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e-maxx, flm, mgm, neu, ulimited engineering


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