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My e-revo brushless edition build
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mistercrash
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My e-revo brushless edition build - 05.15.2009, 10:40 AM

There are too many rules governing the kiddie forum so I was asked to post this here. So here it is. Hope you enjoy.

MY E REVO BRUSHLESS EDITION BUILD

First thing I did before even trying it was to take the TQ transmitter and receiver and install that in my son's Mini T. Then I installed my DX3R receiver, an ACE single servo, Proline steering arm and EC3 connectors. I also made a custom antenna tube.

The pics:


And after it's first run on the street and grass.



Here's my ERBE 8 hours after I got it. I just can never leave well enough alone.



But I guess it's good to check everything out because after only one 12 minute run, one of my diffs, the front one sprung a leak. And there were a couple of screws that were stripped with the plastic of the chassis melted on the threads.



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05.15.2009, 10:41 AM

6 MM ALUMINUM MOTOR PLATE

Something I did while the chassis and rockers are taking a bath in black RIT dye. I am using two stock aluminum motor plates together. I painted them black with high temp paint I have that has to be cooked at 650 degrees for an hour. Though stuff. I made a carbon fiber motor plate before this and I used it for a while but I was having some temp issues with the motor. My guess is that the aluminum motor plate will help dissipate heat better than carbon fiber.



Since this extra motor plate sets the motor back 3 mm I had to trim the rear shock tower for the back of the motor.



I also had to sand down the fins behind the slipper back plate. The slipper disk pictured here is the carbon fiber one I don’t use anymore.



And this is an idea I had about the base of the motor mount. The top of the motor mount is held firmly in place by the screw that holds the gear mesh, but the base just pivots and floats on the plastic motor mount pivot block. I wanted the base of the motor mount to be held in place has firmly has the top when the gear mesh is set. Here's what I did and that I'm going to try out.

On the left is the plastic motor mount pivot block I modified. I cut off the little nob and it is now a little shorter than the stock one on the right. I also made M4 X .7 threads in the hole so that the screws would go in easily.



An M4 X 10 mm screw with a large washer on the back to hold the pivot block firmly on the motor mount.



The plastic motor mount pivot block has now two screws, the back one to hold it firmly on the motor mount and the front one to pull the motor mount and pivot block against the motor plate and hold it firmly.



Now when I want to set the gear mesh, I have two screw to loosen, the top and the bottom one. Not a problem at all has I have to loosen the bottom screw only an eight of a turn to have the motor pivot.


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05.15.2009, 10:42 AM

LST2 DIFFS

The power of the MMM on 6S apparently shredded a few of the stock diffs so I decided to follow Lincpimp’s lead on his project of putting LST diffs in a Revo.

The output shafts are Revo stub axles with the threaded part cut off .



I removed as much material from the outside of the LST2 diff casings as I could so that they would fit inside the Revo bulkheads. Then I painted them black to make them look good.



I trimmed the stops under the chassis for the diffs to fit.



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05.15.2009, 10:43 AM

I will use Traxxas Summit shafts all around this ERBE. I also want them for the center shafts. I put two set screws on either end of each shafts with blue Locktite.



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05.15.2009, 10:43 AM

8th SCALE CENTER DIFF

The 8th scale center diff in a Revo all started with a guy naming himself ‘’CowboyRay’’. He made an 8th scale CD using a Thunder Tiger TTR S3 buggy center differential. His design required extensive machining to be done and was financially out of reach of many. Some people tried to take over this design and tried to market this CD but the financial aspect was a problem again. It was just very expensive to produce and the sale price was high. Cowboy made and sold a few hundreds of them and then stopped when Traxxas came out with their own version of a center differential with rear brake. Then I saw on the RC Monster forum a guy named ‘’sjcrss’’ made an 8th scale center differential with parts of an Ofna Hyper 7 buggy CD that did not require the help of a machinist or machining equipment. Having at least a drill press or access to one helps a lot though. The hardest part of making this CD is definitely making M3X.5 threads in hardened steel.
So I went with sjcrss’ idea of using the hardened steel spur gear as the diff cap and CowboyRay’s idea of using Thunder Tiger parts. I modified the ERBE’s output gear TRA3984X and I modified these two parts, TRA5415 and TRA5416. They are the output shafts for the Revo 3.3 center diff.

The Thunder Tiger spur gear PD1893



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05.15.2009, 10:44 AM

The Traxxas TRA3984X output gear


The Traxxas TRA5415 and TRA5416 output shafts



The Thuder tiger diff parts, diff case PD1897, diff gear set PD1895



The modification done to the Thunder Tiger PD1897 diff case



The final product



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05.15.2009, 10:45 AM

ZERO SLOP 17 MM OFNA ADAPTERS

The Ofna adapters are tough and cheap. The Traxxas adapters are very similar except for the splines. Both of them have slop that gets worse with time because they get grinded by the threads of the stub axles. There are other systems out there that require the use of 8 mm stub axles or stub axles with no threads but they end up being expensive, although they are very good. Also there are cheaper styles that work great but I started with Ofna before any other systems came out and with the modifications I did, they have been working so well that I don’t see why I should change anything.

GETTING RID OF THE SLOP




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05.15.2009, 10:45 AM



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05.15.2009, 10:46 AM

GETTING RID OF THE LOCKTITE

Here's a couple things I do to stop the need for Locktite. Some slots Dremeled in the nuts, they bite in the wheel's plastic and they don't come of by themselves and a groove around the adapter for an O ring to keep the set screw from backing out. This has been race and bash tested for a long time. It works.



I mount the adapter on a spare stub axle so that I can chuck it in the drill press. I make it turn at medium speed and with a cut off wheel on my Dremel, I can make a clean groove for the O ring.



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05.15.2009, 10:46 AM

SPECIAL TOOL

I made a simple tool to screw in or out the little tubes I made. It works great and doesn't damage the part like a flat head screw driver can.



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05.15.2009, 10:47 AM

ALUMINUM SLIPPER DISK

Nitro vehicles use aluminum clutch shoes inside hardened steel clutch bells so there's the hardened steel slipper disk already on the ERBE, why not use an aluminum slipper pad. So that's the route I decided to take. I have been extensively testing this slipper for the past month and it is holding up to just about any kind of abuse I give it. I tried a carbon fiber slipper disk before that and it held up for a while but failed once it got the abuse of racing at the track.



This is how the disk looks after more than 25 cycles of 4, 5 and 6S runs at the track and bashing. The middle disk is the test one, the left one is new and to the right is the slipper steel plate.



Here are the measurements to make one out of a piece of aluminum anywhere between 2 and 3 mm thick. I tried to be as accurate as I could with the measurements.



BULKHEADS

I have a tendency to over tighten screws sometimes. Especially with the plastic bulkheads. I feel these need to be sitting as tight as possible against the chassis but I often stripped the threads in the plastic trying to do so. I installed some Dubro brass inserts to deal with this problem. Now I can torque those screws very tight and I believe that this helps make the bulkheads sit very snuggly against the chassis adding to the overall structural strength.
I used the 4-40 inserts for the screws that go through the shock towers and 6-32 inserts for the rest on the screws.



ROCKER POSTS

I don't know about you but when I want to take the rockers arms and this happens, it annoys me.



The P2 progressive rockers will be used but this is a small modification I like to do to the rocker posts. I take out the M4 button head screw, I make sure the rocker post is firmly screwed to the bulkhead. Then I take an M4X.7X16 mm set screw and screw it firmly in the rocker post with red Locktite. I then use an M4 Nylok nut to secure the rockers. Whenever I need to take a rocker out, the post stays in the bulkhead.



REAR BODY POST

There’s not much to say about the rear body post but I just wanted to show what I did to it. The body post used on the ERBE is the same as the 3.3 Revo with Easy Start so it has this orifice in it for the Easy Start plug. It is not used for the ERBE so I sanded it off with a sanding drum.



AXLE CARRIERS

This is something I always do with the axle carriers. I use a longer screw and a lock nut.



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05.15.2009, 10:48 AM

STEVE SLAYDEN STEERING MODS

The full ''Steve Slayden Steering Mod'' ( http://www.traxxas.com/support/kb_se...472&artlang=en )was done on this ERBE and also the front bulkheads have been modified to accept 5 caster clips. If you shave some material from the upper A arms, you can even go with 6 caster clips.



ON/OFF SWITCH

I read a few posts about people that do not use the on/off switch as it becomes contaminated with dirt and dust and quickly becomes useless. I'm trying this, I hope it works because I like to have the switch as a way to quickly turn off the MMM until I can take the truck back to my pit table to disconnect the batteries. I will be racing this truck so I can't loose time screwing around in the pits to disconnect my batteries. When my race is over, I want to just flick the switch off and take my turn marshalling on the track. After I'm done marshalling, I can take back the truck to my pit table and disconnect the batteries. I also made a little thing that pivots to keep the switch from going to the OFF position by itself. A little trick from Joel ‘’Magic’’ Johnson back in the early 90s. The green and red squares are just sticker on a piece of scrap Lexan trimmed to fit the top of the switch. It’s a visual aid, green means go, red means no go.



MUD FLAPS

The front wheels throw a lot of things to the back of the truck while driving it. Dirt, sand, mud, rocks, dog poo. To keep the rear shafts and suspension cleaner and protect the shaft's dust boots, I make mud flaps from scrap Lexan pieces or thick rubber. In this case, the are rubber held with zip ties. This really works. Also no one noticed but I always switch my rear shafts around so that the dust boots are close to the center. The dust boot trick is from ''WUDS'' on Revo-World.com. Thanks WUDS.



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05.15.2009, 10:48 AM

REAR SHOCK TOWER SHIM

I made this carbon fiber shim that goes under the rear shock tower, it raises the shocks just enough so that the springs don’t rub on the chassis at full suspension extension.



REAR SKID PLATE PROTECTOR

I made a rear skid plate protector much like the one I made long ago for my 3.3 Revo. It's just a piece of 1/16'' thick steel. It wraps around the rear portion of the skid plate and is secured on the middle skid plate with a screw and nut for added strength.



MOTOR MOUNT

I’ve SEEN some people do this and thought it looked good. I painted the motor mount black and sanded the fins.



AMB PERSONNAL TRANSPONDER

The MC Carbon Racing carbon fiber plate that covers the hole in the chassis left by the single steering conversion is where I decided to mount my PT for racing. I made a big notch in the cover plate because the AMB Personal Transponder does not always transmit well through carbon fiber.



Here is the AMB PT mounted in the truck with aluminum screws and nylon nuts and from underneath, the notch lets the PT transmit clearly to the AMB track loop.



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05.15.2009, 10:49 AM

Since I will never use this ERBE in water, I decided to modify the receiver box to help get more room to pivot the motor to change the pinion or spur without removing it. I sanded off the portion of the receiver box where the wires go in.



I am now left with two large openings that I will block with a piece of closed cell foam glued to the box with CA glue.



Here is the foam glued to the box to block those openings.



A tiny hole in the foam for the receiver antenna to go through.



And a small slot for the wires to go in the box. The foam wraps around the wires and will keep dirt and dust from coming inside the box. Here is just an extension wire to demonstrate.



I can now pivot the motor far enough to change my pinion or spur gear without removing the motor completely.



HOP UPS

PUSHRODS AND TURNBUCKLES

I am using the Traxxas aluminum red pushrods and Traxxas aluminum red turnbuckles. I would rather have them black but the black pushrods are not out yet. I changed to Traxxas red pushrod spacers since the ERBE came with blue ones. I also like to use the TRA5348 turnbuckle rod ends on all the turnbuckles and the pushrods. They are the biggest and bulkiest rod ends used on the Revos. They are usually used only on the rear turnbuckles but I like to use them everywhere. You can recognize them by the small ring around the base of the ball end.



SHOCKS

Variable damping #3 shock pistons will be used on this ERBE, the rebound holes have been enlarged to 2 mm. I like a fast rebound. I will use black rear springs and gold front springs.



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05.15.2009, 10:50 AM

CARBON FIBER HOP UPS

A few carbon fiber parts will be used also, a rear bulkhead tie bar, a rear wing tie bar and maybe a chassis cover plate for the hole left by the second servo that won't be used.



PIVOT BALL CAPS

Aluminum pivot ball caps, they are nice with an O ring to keep them from backing out. They have been working great so far.



SWAY BARS

I am using the Tekno sway bar in front and the Traxxas sway bar in the rear. I straightened the black Tekno sway bar to make a ‘’U’’ shape out of it and I use the black Traxxas sway bar for the rear.



I’M DONE BEATING UP CLOWNS

I feel sorry for all the clowns I lured into dark alleys with multi colored marshmallows to take their balloons. I used those clown balloons they use to make balloon puppets to make shock boots out of them for the longest time. I should have used these Jato shock boots from the beginning, they are perfect.



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