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SuperMaxx High Voltage Lightning
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MonsterMaxx
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SuperMaxx High Voltage Lightning - 02.26.2013, 03:19 PM

I thought you all might like to see what we've come up with for a Brushless Monster Truck. I've had a lot of fun with this and we are just entering the best part...running prototypes.

I've got one running, VBS based and it's off the chain fast. Will also be building (it's about half built now) one based on stock maxx bulkheads.
In total we are building 4x prototypes, 2x VBS based and 2x stock bulk based.

The VBS one is really fast and a lot of fun. It's got a Tekin 1350kv motor, a slipperential, badland tires. On 46/13 we clocked it at 50mph! and the motor/esc is cool.
I can't wait for it to stop raining around here so I can go to the track.



Here's some features and specs:
*motor mounting with cam mesh adjustment and quick removal access
*transmission mounting with quick removal access
*billet steering servo mounting.
*adjustable dual battery mounting for ease of CG adjustment, or you can run a single battery and leave the dual battery mounting off.
*hardened steel driveshafts (dogbones)
*wheelbase equivalent to a SuperMaxx Thunder/Lightning and a Monoblock ~372mm (differential to differential), 394mm axle to axle on a RacerX w/ setbacks.
*low CG monocoque design
*Designed to work with VBS or Standard Maxx bulkheads. So, it can fit any Maxx.
*Designed for the Tekin and a 1350 or 1550 on 6s or the tekin/castle 2200 on 4s
*The HV has been designed with the intent that any buggy/truggy center diff will fit, from straight shafts, to exotic ones like the slipperentials or Torsen diffs. Clearance for up to 36mm in length, a 50T 1.0 Module Spur and 11-18T pinion. In other words, there should be plenty of room for a wide variety of transmissions and gearing.

To complete a High Voltage Lightning truck you'll need:
*Complete maxx front and rear end. Preferably one that's been upgraded to 1/8 scale diffs already.
*Motor, speed control and standard electronics.
*1/8th scale center diff and pinion gear. I plan to have ofna's 48T 1.0mod Spider diff in stock.
*Radio with adjustable endpoints (any modern computer radio.)


Here's a little video of bashing it around the yard http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AcPMs...ature=youtu.be

And some pictures




Last edited by MonsterMaxx; 02.26.2013 at 03:20 PM.
   
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ANGRY-ALIEN
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04.01.2013, 09:24 PM

Very very cool... :) nice to see a new custom Maxx being put through it's paces... Seems to cover quite a bit of ground quickly too... love the build...

Alien
   
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MonsterMaxx
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04.03.2013, 10:02 AM

If you like that vid, check out our facebook page, several more vids there.
https://www.facebook.com/UnlimitedEngineering
   
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MonsterMaxx
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04.21.2013, 07:12 PM

Pre-orders are open now, details are HERE
   
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mikesauto
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05.13.2013, 06:12 PM

nice lightning. could you let me in your site I can't post but it lets me log in. thanks
mikesauto
   
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MonsterMaxx
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05.13.2013, 08:57 PM

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Originally Posted by mikesauto View Post
could you let me in your site
done
   
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DarkSammy
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05.18.2013, 04:22 AM

Hi Robin, I am in the same position as mikesauto, I can log in but am not able to post in your forum. Would it be possible to please activate my account? My username there is Darksammy. Many thanks, & love the design of the new high voltage lightning!
   
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RokleM
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05.18.2013, 02:28 PM

Yeaaahhhh, finally got my account activated :D

I'm driving vehicle 3 (FVL3).

There is a ton of info on the UE thread, but here's some final info as the vehicle heads into production that I posted.



Possible final post here until I start the "refresh" with production parts once they arrive. This is my best effort for a summary post of everything. The final test of these vehicles will hopefully be next weekend at a big race at our local track. We're hoping to have enough for a full blown truggy heat.

Overall, ecstatic with the way the truck, truggy, whatever you want to call it drives. Even though my 1/8 e-buggy is very new and I'm still playing, lap times are within 1-1.5 seconds which really says something. I can throw a vehicle nearly 2.5 lbs heavier, probably 2-3" higher on center of gravity, and almost 5" wider around the same track with only a 5-6% difference in speed. That is engineering my friends.


Electronics:
1) Battery of choice is absolutely the Orion 3s 4600 90c's. They come in at only 350g vs nearly 600g for similar packs from other vendors. They have a massive punch and can easily do a 15 minute main with the nitro truggies if I chose too.
2) ESC/motor I'm kind of torn. The 1350 T8 is a beast and runs pretty cool considering what I'm throwing at it. I wouldn't say tekin has been a bad experience, but I also expected more. Having to use my laptop to really tweak the settings, needing to use a BEC since the RX8 (v1) only puts out a measly 5.5v, cost in comparison to others is high, etc leads me to think that if I did it again I would explore other alternatives. It is smooth, it does have power, but I have to wonder if some of the other options would have packed more punch for the dollar. V2 of the RX8 is out now, so that may be a game changer.
3) Servo, 7955TG and crank it to 7.5-8v. Explore no other options, do not pass go do not collect $200, I would say it is impossible to beat the speed, torque, and cost for this situation.

Drivetrain:
1) Front diff, I've had the best luck with 10k weight.
2) Center diff is a cheapo mugen diff (MBX6TR/MBX6), 20-30k weight seems to work well. In my opinion, keep it a little light to keep the power to the front wheels. We're dealing with an absolute ton of power and you absolutely have to keep those front wheels planted to maintain perfect control.
3) Rear diff, 3k works well.
4) Gearing, I've found a 12/46 puts down more power on a small/medium (100-140' track) than is almost manageable. A very big track, going up to 13t would be possible.

Setup:
1) Weight slightly forward of center works well for my driving style, keeping the front wheels dug in on the corners but still enough weight in the rear to keep it mostly planted.
2) Front setup, high impact front arms take a MAJOR beating. 1 shock per corner, 60 wt, black springs, no preload. Outside shock mount on the bottom arm, middle row second to top hole on the VBS. Limiters set about 4mm less than full shock length (easiest is to unscrew bottom shock and have it at full length while adjusting the limiters). CVD's should be right about level when dropped from about a foot. Wheels straight or possible .5 degree out, 1 degree camber to start.
3) Rear setup, standard racerx arms (not setbacks) on mine. 1 shock per corner, 60 wt, black springs, 3mm preload. Outside shock mount on the bottom arm, outside row top hole on the VBS. Limiters set about 4mm less than full shock length. CVD's at a slight upward angle. Wheels at 1-2 degree in, 1-2 degree camber.
4) Highly recommend titanium skids, and even they tweak a bit when going full stop on a jump. 6mm UE cvd's do indeed work just fine, even with the amount of power we're throwing around. Would 8mm be better, of course, but 6mm will absolutely work.

Misc:
1) Servo arm locations and links are a bit tricky, but we'll see how the final build is as the chassis has been changed slightly. I've found the small traxxas rod ends work well (with a bit of trimming and slight bending of the link so it doesn't hit the front driveshaft). I will also explore ball/cup style on the final build (like 1/10th scale turnbuckle) which will give a bit more clearance.
2) Electronic placement. MM likes most of his components up front. I preferred my receiver in the back with most of the rest of the hardware up front. Final build, there is a ton of room inside the back of the chassis and unless you're playing in ton of loose dirt, a very small amount actually accumulates there. I plan to mount most of my electronics (BEC, transponder, receiver) there on the final build with only the ESC up front by the motor.

It's been a privilege to do my best to break this thing over the last few months and those of you that have per-ordered will be REAAAAAALY happy with what you receive.
   
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MonsterMaxx
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05.19.2013, 03:34 PM

Quote:
Originally Posted by Sam Long View Post
Hi Robin, I am in the same position as mikesauto, I can log in but am not able to post in your forum. Would it be possible to please activate my account? My username there is Darksammy. Many thanks, & love the design of the new high voltage lightning!
u r in
   
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Brokenparts
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Cool 05.29.2013, 11:38 AM

Need CVDs



   
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MonsterMaxx
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05.29.2013, 05:27 PM

Soon...
   
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Brokenparts
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06.05.2013, 11:44 PM

I finally found a set, 17mm and don't know what to use to secure the rims. A large washer or do you make special spacers?

Are the 6mm and 8mm knuckles tthe same? Just using different bearings?

I was thinking the nuts from the savage xl might work.

Last edited by Brokenparts; 06.05.2013 at 11:45 PM.
   
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Brokenparts
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06.06.2013, 12:18 AM

I ordered 4 of those spacers, hopefully 4 per order, that were labeled as 2mm 8mm cvd. Are these correct?
My name is Anthony
   
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MonsterMaxx
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06.06.2013, 11:12 PM

I've been using a large fender washer and am not happy with it because it crushes down. Looking for a large serrated 6mm nut and can't find one.

No, 2x8mm spacers go between the bearings on a Savage. SuperMaxxs take 1.5x8 between the bearings.
Sorry, I didn't see this post and it's already shipped.
   
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Brokenparts
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06.09.2013, 12:35 AM

Would you be able to machine a mount for the 1717?
   
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