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$270 buget
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emaxxdriver18
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$270 buget - 07.07.2006, 04:03 AM

i have 270 to spend on brushless motor and speed controler to go on an e-maxx i will start racing soon and love to bash any ideas of what to get also should i get with it i know i need cvd's rr slipper different gearing and diffs

Last edited by emaxxdriver18; 07.07.2006 at 05:09 AM.
   
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jhautz
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07.07.2006, 10:57 AM

ESC
http://www.rc-monster.com/proddetail...od=9920warrior

MOTOR
http://www.rc-monster.com/proddetail...540C_XL&cat=20
or
http://www.rc-monster.com/proddetail...WAND_XL&cat=20

9920 and XL motor are your only decent options at that price. I know this is $280, not $270, but spend the extra few dollars and upgrade to an XL can from the L can. Trust me well worth the extra $10-$20. The number of turns that you need on the motor will be determined by what battery configuration you will be running. How many cells? What type of Batts?

There arent alot of options at that price point. But this is a good one. Pretty standard Emaxx setup.(at least around here) Plenty of people running this setup and well proven.

If you are truely plannig on racing, Id go with a slightly better ESC. The 9920 will be great for bashing, but for extended hard running(like racing demands), you will be pushing it pretty hard. The Warrior 12020, Quark 125, or MGM 160 might be better options for racing. Of these, Id recomend the Quark, Sliky smooth throttle (love mine) and tons of setup options., But any of these will blow your budget.

BTW: Welcome to the board.
(always wanted to say that):027:


I can't decide if its more fun
to make it...
or break it...


Silent...But Deadly



Last edited by jhautz; 07.07.2006 at 11:02 AM.
   
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squeeforever
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07.07.2006, 12:32 PM

Jhautz pretty much said it all as for motor/controller but how many cells? That would determine what wind motor to get. Also, I would recommend the Feigao C motor. Its got the built in heatsink and screwed on endbells. The Wanderers are indentical inside but don't have a heatsink and have press on end bells.

As for upgrades, I would go for the Strobe slipper. Its alot better and actually allows you to set some slip. The RRP is just like stock...you gotta crank it down all the way. As for cvd's, I would go for the UE 6mm steel, but MIP would do for something slightly cheaper. The UE are by far the best though. That stuff with aluminum cases and cups would be good. If would go for the FLM Hybrid bulks with 1/8th scale gears though. Its slightly more but well worth it and you don't have to worry about stripped diffs.
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Sneeck
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07.07.2006, 12:43 PM

Before jumping on the first brushless setup, do you got good quality battery's and a good charger? If the answer is no, don't get brushless before getting some good battery's and a charger. It will need allot of power to preform like it should. No sence in going bl if the power source is weak.

Also I would first upgrade the drivetrain before getting brushless. It is way way to powerfull for a stock maxx, you will keep braking part's. No fun in that, waiting for fund's to come in and buy upgrade part's.
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emaxxdriver18
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07.07.2006, 02:35 PM

yes i have great batts that are 4200 and zaped with a 977 for a charger i run 12 cells and will these set ups run faster than the hv-maxx and what wind sould i get i will race on a small track and want enough tourqe to wheelie down the back strech and what do i need to do so my truck can handle the motor

Last edited by emaxxdriver18; 07.07.2006 at 02:41 PM.
   
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jhautz
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07.07.2006, 03:24 PM

Quote:
Originally Posted by emaxxdriver18
yes i have great batts that are 4200 and zaped with a 977 for a charger i run 12 cells and will these set ups run faster than the hv-maxx and what wind sould i get i will race on a small track and want enough tourqe to wheelie down the back strech and what do i need to do so my truck can handle the motor
If your gonna stay w/ 12 cells, go w/ the 7XL motor.

Yes. These setups will out perform a HV-maxx setup. Wheelies on command.

MUST HAVE UPGRADES:
-Slipper: Strobe is best. Robinson can do ok if you already have it and use a heavier spring.
-Steel Idler in the Tranny. RC-Monster or UE
-CVDs. As squee said. UE is best. MIP will due ok also. Avoid the cheapo ebay cvds. They are just crap.
-Diffs: Stock will probably be OK to start, but you will eventually need to build them up. I ran quite while on the stock diffs before having problems, but Stockers will only hold up so long. Then the recomendations squee made are right on the money.

That should get you in the game.

If you are gonna race though. I would look at upgrading he chassis to the Gmaxx. HUGE improvement in handleing and overall drivability with your new found brushless power. Also, upgrade the stock steering servo to something with at least 150oz (180oz is better) of torque and faster speed than the stock.


I can't decide if its more fun
to make it...
or break it...


Silent...But Deadly



Last edited by jhautz; 07.07.2006 at 03:26 PM.
   
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emaxxdriver18
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07.07.2006, 03:40 PM

thanx i got a lot like pro line shocks revo convergon kit mip cvd rr slipper rpm aarms and nuckels traxxas alum bulkheads and a $130 stearing servo with 333oz of torque and gorilla maxx single speed
   
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jhautz
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07.07.2006, 03:46 PM

If you have the steel idler in the single speed conversion tranny, then your all set for the brushless.


I can't decide if its more fun
to make it...
or break it...


Silent...But Deadly


   
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