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  (#16)
thzero
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04.19.2011, 09:26 AM

Interesting... I'll have to keep this in mind since I have 3508 gearbox in my box of parts.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Manne View Post
Overdriven is right Itīs not the nitro gearbox, itīs the gearbox for the brushless trucks, and I would say that it is the most durable one out there. I have used the same gears in the gearbox for two years, and that is with the slipper locked with screws, the gearbox is the only thing that I didnīt break on the revo, Itīs very rare to see these gearboxes breakdown
   
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  (#17)
Jahay
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04.20.2011, 05:52 AM

Nice Savage! Love the improvising to get this to work!

Best bit is definitely that Revo Box! never really knew much about it as people alwauys complained about the revo have a weak drive train? hence, no one had attempted to do this???? But if it offers gear reduction and can handle 6s power then great... but lets see how it does cope with the heavier savage over a little time. Please keep us posted!

Nice Pics... Nice Jumps! And i can now see why you need to upgrade that stock chassis. Dont worry about doubling the weight of the tvps as you get so much more in strength and reliability! Your added strength braces wont help much...

Nice work bud! And please get vids up! I want to see what sort of landing you had when breaking the plastic chassis braces haha!!!
   
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  (#18)
Manne
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04.20.2011, 01:43 PM

Thanks Jahay

Yes, the whole Revo drivetrain is totaly junk except the gearbox, I would like to call it bulletproof, the only time you see them go bad is if a bearing blows.

Actually, I think my revo was heavier have you seen the build? I will get the 5mm Tvpīs, now when the gearbox mounts are done and fits good, the braces works good but it feels so... I donīt know, sloppy to have the stock chassis instead of having something good and strong

I will post vids as soon As I get my new gearing and tires Now you keep us updated on your build man!
   
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  (#19)
Manne
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04.21.2011, 03:20 PM

Super small update:

I have a troublesome heat source in my truck......

Iīm using 4s 25C 7400mah rhino lipos.

First I was geared very low, 36.22 mph (58.18 km/h)@3.7V per cell, and with that gearing the temps were fine but the truck was just silly slow.. So I regeared from 65/21 0.8mod To 47/17 Mod1.

From that Iīm getting 40.55 mph (65.13 km/h)@3.7V per cell That is totally okay with me but the temps are trough the roof.... I donīt know If I cooked the 2350... It cogged like crazy in the end of the run, only from a complete standing tho so I donīt know what was wrong... I could run it in super slow "crawling" speed but it was as I said very coggy from a complete stand still...

I will try with my Neu/castle 2200Kv and see if the motor is dead, add a CC blower or just a computer fan and then we will then see If I need a 1520.....
   
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  (#20)
thzero
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04.21.2011, 03:30 PM

I've been running mine with the 2200kv and its been pretty good on 2S 30C 5000mah batteries. Geared 47/20 with bulletproof diffs, flux tranny, and ProLine 3.8" Trenchers.
   
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  (#21)
scarletboa
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04.21.2011, 04:00 PM

Quote:
Originally Posted by Manne View Post
Super small update:

I have a troublesome heat source in my truck......

Iīm using 4s 25C 7400mah rhino lipos.

First I was geared very low, 36.22 mph (58.18 km/h)@3.7V per cell, and with that gearing the temps were fine but the truck was just silly slow.. So I regeared from 65/21 0.8mod To 47/17 Mod1.

From that Iīm getting 40.55 mph (65.13 km/h)@3.7V per cell That is totally okay with me but the temps are trough the roof.... I donīt know If I cooked the 2350... It cogged like crazy in the end of the run, only from a complete standing tho so I donīt know what was wrong... I could run it in super slow "crawling" speed but it was as I said very coggy from a complete stand still...

I will try with my Neu/castle 2200Kv and see if the motor is dead, add a CC blower or just a computer fan and then we will then see If I need a 1520.....
it sounds to me like you cooked the motor unfortunately. i think either that 1515 1y 2200kv motor should work fine or maybe a 1518.

love the build! i am currently scavenging ebay right now to get some parts that i need thanks to a screw-up on my part. i tried to add some jb weld to the 14mm hexes in some of my older tires' hexes and mounted them with the non-dry jb weld in an attempt to get a tighter fit between the hex and the wheel. it worked for a little while until i broke a knuckle and realized that i had effectively jb welded the hex to the axle. now, i already have the new knuckles and am looking for cheap axles. i am also looking for new dogbones because those are worn out and need to be replaced anyway.


They say a good mechanic only needs 2 tools - WD40 & Duct tape. If it moves, and its not supposed to, duct tape. If it doesn't move, and its supposed to, WD40.
   
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  (#22)
Manne
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04.23.2011, 01:14 PM

scarletboa:

Yeah I thought so too but it was fine I have now sucessfully driven the truck four packs since the Heat incident. The motor is just too small, Iīll try the 2200kv but I doubt it will handle my driving any better in the sandpit..
Iīll figure it out.

Now I have another problem I keep bending the motor mount plate forward ( so the gearmesh gets to tight ) when I do my 17feet high nosedives So I will try to moke up some kind of brace, I think Iīll need atleast a 5mm thick motorplate to not bend it... It feels easier to just make a brace

The motormount have flexed so much that my pinion rubbed my recieverbox Thas is ALOT of flexing Iīll post pics later on

Also, I think Iīll go with rpm a-arms for the front and stock for the rear, Since Iīm only bending dogbones in the rear. Or maybe Iīll try rpm all around and see if the dogbone situation gets worse, Itīs totally okay as it is right now, they only bends slightliy in the rear, nothing to be worried about.
Iīm actually amazed that they arenīt bent more since the dogbones are almost bottoming out in the diffcups/outputs due to the bad machining of my Integy hubs.....And I have catched Major air and landed perfect for bending dogbones countless times.

Soo far, GREAT truck, It has already taken twice the beating that my revo build ever managed to take.
   
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  (#23)
thzero
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04.23.2011, 01:33 PM

Btw what spur are you running? .8 mod or 1.0 mod?
   
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  (#24)
Manne
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04.24.2011, 04:02 AM

21/65=mod 0.8, 17/47=mod 1.0
   
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  (#25)
thzero
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04.24.2011, 10:05 AM

Got any part #s for the mod 1s?
   
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  (#26)
Manne
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04.24.2011, 10:36 AM

Iīm using a savage spur #76937, and just a mod 1.0 pinion/5mmshaft, canīt remember the brand but any would work goog with the plastic spur.

18/47 is the smallest gears you can use without grinding any material off the gearbox, I havenīt tried 18/47 with the 2200kv, that can i slightly thicker, so It might not fit/get good gearmesh.

I ordered some 49tooth spurs but I donīt think they will fit inside the chassis :), I have made a "slot" in my chassis to make the 65tooth 0.8mod to fit, so it doesnīt mather to me, just letting you know if you are makeing the swap.
   
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  (#27)
Manne
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04.28.2011, 06:06 PM

Update!:

The raw power of brushless:



The truck is running great! I have broken a few things now tho.. first up, a-arms, no biggie, five arms so far, all lower and one upper Installed rpm a few days ago and they are working great! No broken arms so far since the install!

I also broke a screw in the steering assembly:



but I got it out with a plier:


And then I installed a finethreadded screw instead, The stock screws has too little meat on them... But I do like big threads.. The best would be something between Traxxas "finethreads" and hpi threads "Fatthreads"

I installed the mod 1.0 gears and the slipper plate from a Savage on the Revo gearbox:



I had to drill up the hole in the shaft from the revo gearbox from 2mm to 2.5mm in order to get the right "drivepin" in for the Savage slipperplate, and the slipper plateīs hole is to big for the shaft...But the spurgear will still be perfectly centered since the hole in the spur and the bushing ( or ballbearing ) has the correct inner diameter.:





   
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  (#28)
Manne
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04.28.2011, 06:08 PM

I also tried what the lowest tooth count you can fit were.
Totaly 64 tooths, 17/47 Mod 1.0 was the absolutley smalles I managed to fit, and then I even had to remove a tiny bit of material from the gearbox! And this was with the 2350motor wich doesnīt have the finns as the 2200kv has, 64tooths wouldnīt be enough for the 2200kv to mesh properly.:

A tiny amount of material removed



I finnaly got my new aluminum bulkhead braces! But when I deassembled everything I found this:





I just bent it back, same thing in the front as well as in the rear:




Maybe it had something to do with this:

   
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  (#29)
Manne
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04.28.2011, 06:09 PM

I have been thinking of getting alu bulks or bashcatbraces, but I decided to try this first:

I started with some trimming of the skids




And then I just mounted the new braces, time will tell if itīs enough to keep everything in one piece:



I also got a CC blower, but where is the air getting out??? just pushing cold air on the can but not letting the hot air out seems wierd to me..



Finally, some new wheels and tires:



And thatīs all for now. Next up: new motorplate, I keep bending this one over and over again.....
   
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  (#30)
Manne
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04.28.2011, 06:13 PM

I forgott! the weight difference of the tires!

Current tires 216Grams, pro-line Mtrīs.



New tires 304Grams, Hpi Gt2.



Iīm looking forward to see if the drivetrain likes my driving with these heavier tires.... Itīs been great...So far..
   
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